PAezb

On my 05 OBW, I didn't find them bad in warm weather -rain/wet conditions. Probably not as grippy in the rain as I would like. Their treadlife (25K) and snow traction suck however (IMO). In an attempt to stay with or near the speed rating/summer performance of the Potenza's I opted for the Yokohama H4S - partially because I like the Yoko Avid Tourings on my older OBS (only "S" speed rated and not a performance tire), and partially the price difference against the likes of the Bridgeston Turanza's (expensive), and partially from the favorable reviews on Tirerack. So far (9k) I like their 3 season performance. I think their rain traction is a bit better than the Potenza's, but again, snow traction is not as good as the reviews on Tirerack indicate. I'm considering buying a set of steel rim and mount tires more dedicated to snow for next season - still researching. I noted your reply in the other thread from SubeeTed on the Nokian WRs. If you find something you *really* like in a performance all-season, or dedicated snow, please share.

Nah, I thinks it's all about the bottom line...initial cost to produce vs sales profit. You'd be amazed how many sub-components are assembled in Mexico, for example, on the new models. What criteria requires Subaru (Subaru or outside entity) to maintain a percentage of American made components? What do they care?

I've been fairly happy with the Yoko's Avid Tourings on my 96 OBW for year round driving. Inexpensive and wear well. In addition, I have Yokohama's H4S on the 05 XT OBW that replaced the original Bridgestone Potenza when the car was new. Have to tell you that both suck as far as snow traction and braking are concerned. At first I thought the H4S did well in the snow, but have since changed my view when driving in light snow conditions in the Twin Cities. The Potenza's were just bad to begin with their rapid wear. I like them both for summer driving (high speed rated btw), but using them in the snow leaves alot to be desired. The verdict is still out on how the H4S will wear overall. Even though the H4S have some pretty aggressive tread pattern and depth, I've come to the conclusion that part of the problem is the wider footprint of these "performance tires" having more displacement (in ratio to the car's weight) to make them ride "above" the snow and to "snowplane". I think others, like Andyjo, have the right idea, get a second set of wheels (steel rim) and put true snow tires on them. I would also add, the narrower the tire's footprint, over the generally wider performance tire, the better.

Does the CEL light up?

Are you filling right up to the brim of the gas cap filler tube, or stop when the gas pump auto stops. Subaru recommends not to fill up past when the gas pump stops (think it has something to do with allowing pressurization in the tank, not sure). Maybe a weak fuel pump? Other than that, brand of gas, winter gas (oxygenated vs non-oxygenated). My older subaru is finicky about Holiday Station Gas here in Minnesota - I never buy there unless it's an emergency and they're the only one around.

Have you had your alternator/battery/charging system checked? One symptom is the lower voltage drop causing the brake/ABS indicators to light. Happened on my 96 OBW - (weak altenator which I replaced). Had a ABS indicator light on the 05 OBW, turned out to be mud/dirt on the sensor (from driving back roads in northern Minnesota last summer) Just a thought.

Your right on connecting to the battery for large inverters. The largest inverter I have ever seen that had a 12volt socket plug was 400watts (30amp DC capacity draw), anything higher will have allegator clips for direct connection to the battery because of the amperage draw. I use a 350watt inverter (25 to 26 DC amps at full load) and I know Im at/beyond the cigarette's socket capacity and have blown the bridge wire on the back of the socket. And that doesn't even take into consideration, peak or instantaneaous amperage when a device or load is first applied (turned on) that can be much higher.

No's it a standard 12volt socket. I've run different inverters from it all the time. But it is limited to a certain power draw. The rear of the socket has a "bridge" wire that acts very much like a fuse, and sensitive to heat, and appears to "blow" easier than the inline fuse at the fuse block.

I have the same model/year as you with 187k on the odometer. The times I have let it run that low when the light comes on AND I fill up right away, typically measures to around 3.2 gallons left in the tank before fillup. Now, if I ever get the light I just conservatively figure I need to fillup within the next 40 miles (but never really wait that long).

Google come up with a few sites, but who nows how accurate and uptodate these tools are: http://www.vehicleidentificationnumber.com/vehicle_identification_numbers_vin_decoding_3.html

I may be wrong on this, but I thought auto manufacturers that sell in the US have to follow federal standard guidelines for the VINs. So, if this were true, and Subaru is using a VIN pattern on your SE that identifies it as an LE, is Subaru in violation? The MN DMV certainly knew the VIN for mine was a 2.5 XT (versus a 2.5i, LE, or anything else in the model descriptor). Perhaps Subaru has not registered a proper VIN pattern yet for an "SE". Just reaching here...

Depending on how important this is to you, your time, the difference in money involved, etc etc, you could look for help through a local news station that has a consumer investigative team, contact your state's attorney general and the state office for consumer affairs. How far did you take this up the latter with the DMV? The insurance company I don't think you can do much about, other than maybe shop and compare elsewhere, which is always good to do anyway from time to time. It Sucks....

How is the model described on your purchase invoice, or the window detail sticker? Wouldn't that satisfy insurance and tax issue?

.........

I've towed 16 ft Lunds fully loaded, car loaded, for years up to northern Minnesota/Canada with a 96 Outback 2.5 auto (no tranny cooler) with no problems. Also towed a utility trailer loaded with landscaping/building materials numerous times - no problems. This OB has 187K on her. I, like many others, have had to replace HG (138k) but I don't attribute towing to that cause. In addition, I've been towing a small travel trailer (2200lbs), car loaded, with a 05 OBW XT auto with no extra cooler (estimate about 3500 towing miles). A tranny cooler is always good extra protection. But a little common sense on driving style, hot climates, maintenance -flushing/replacing tranny fluid when needed, checking coolant, tranny, oil levels periodically, etc., these vehicles will last a long time - IMO.

Another low $20k offering from Toyota that I think will also cut into Subaru's market: http://trucks.about.com/od/2007suvs/ss/07_fjcruiser.htm Only 3 doors/ 5 seating though

Welcome to the turbo family - zoom, zoom, zoom.... You do realize the potential is greater for getting a ticket now? Hope you have good self-control, you'll need it

I would have strongly considered the H6 model but at the time, summer of 2004, the H6 was only available in the leather, more upscale options, which I didn't want. And the price drove it past the $30K point. Apparently, the prices on the H6 packages have come down. Turbo models as well? That's about the same mileage I get around town. If I baby her and stay around 60mph, I can get 24/25mpg on long trips - but you have to resist the temptation and keep that turbo from spooling up for quick accelerations. I don't know about the turbo in high elevations argument, I've read comments both ways. Is this the definitive truth on how turbo's perform over normal aspirated engines at high altitude? http://www.turbodriven.com/en/turbofacts/advantages.asp BTW, the Bridgestone Potenzas that came on the car suck - IMO. Ok summer, below average winter. But they wear too rapidly and unevenly. Changed them out at 25K and now have Yokos H4S on. Jury is still out on these as well but so far they seem to perform well. 33k miles so far...

If you have access to the same info for a 96 OBW, could I impose upon you to post that as well. I think I may have a minor problem that the cold temp sensor may be the issue. Thanks.

I would add the Honda Pilot to that mix. I drove both the Highlander and the Pilot before finally decided on the 05 OBW Turbo. Pilot has more room in all 3 rows (albeit the 3rd row is still too small). I liked the Pilot and it was on my final short list. Turn-offs were both the Toyota and Honda salesmen where waaay too pushy about their vehicles.

Sure you want to do that? You take an STI out and you will probably forget all about the Tribeca...

Love the performance, hate the fuel costs. But hey, I knew that going in. During the summer/fall months, I use mine to tow a small Casita travel trailer (2200 lbs), canoe on the roof, and loaded gear. Does very well. The turbo gets the whole mass up to speed in short order when entering the on-ramps. Oil changes are pretty easy, though not as easy as on the earlier legacy's with the standard 2.5 - plastic cowl on the underside and the oil plug is further back on the pan. Spark plugs will be a pain to change as each has a I-coil on top of them - may let a independant do those when the time comes (100 - 120mi). Other than that, it's performed flawlessly so far and plan to keep the car for many years - as I've done with my 96'

Yeah, the grill, I'd forgotten about that. Not a check in the positive column in my book either.

I can give you some quick impression on it after driving it once for about 10 miles. I own both a 96 and 05 OBW XT. The salesman at the dealership who sold me my 96, now the sales manager, tossed me the keys to his demo that he personally drove (I didn't even ask to test drive it, he just threw me his keys and told me to take it out), Leg, head, and overall room is excellent up front, second row is ok, third row seating looks to be tight, but he had his golf clubs in there and I didn't want to move them to find out. I'm 6' btw. View of the road while driving is also very good, although visability out the rear corners has some blind spots due to the sloping, wide pillers. The high/narrow rear window makes it very difficult to determine distance from an object when backing up. Fit n' finish is excellent. Control layout is very good - will take a little learning to run the center dash climate, radio controls. I like the center LCD display for all the control status's. Driving comfort, handling, and power are all very good, although compared to my turbo 4-cyl Outback, the Tribeca's 6-cyl doesn't have the punch and acceleration mine has. But then, it's a heavier vehicle too. The other impression I gathered was at highway speed (60+mph), when making quick lane changes, the vehicle would "swagger", rocking a bit until it stabilized itself. But it is a larger, top-heavier vehicle - other higher/larger SUVs probably have the same characteristics (I have little experience with them). Obviously, it not designed for tight quick corrections like a Ferrarri (neither is the Outback). Oh, I did like the feel of the steering, I feels like it has a tighter turning ratio than my Outbacks which I wish they had. Road noise from the tires, while 'ok', was a little louder than I thought it should be for a vehicle at this price point. Could of been the brand/model of tire, I don't recall what they were. Another brand/model would probably improve things. Overall, a nice vehicle. I do wish subaru would get away from the European styling (sloping rooflines, wide pillers and narrow rear glass, and tapering top-side cabin) - You lose interior space and visability. My 96 OBW is far better in design than the 05 OBW in that respect. I think the Tribeca suffers a bit from it too.

Wonder if something like that could be done to an H6.... Whoops, skip that last post. Amazing! Does Subaru have any near future plans to offer a twin turbo H6?