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After reinstalling the old O2, did you reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes?

I had a low beam go out on one of the bulbs on my 05 OBW XT. A dealer, (not the one a bought the car through) replaced it no questions asked - the car is still under the 36K warranty. There have been numerous reports/complaints that a high number of these bulbs are failing, and failing early (in addition to this board, do a search over on Edmunds.com in the Subaru forums). I'm not sure I'd recommend a higher power bulb replacement - I'm already getting flashed ocassionally by oncoming traffic that think I have the high-beams on (yes, I did have the alignments checked by the dealer). I'd be interested too if anyone has suggestions for a different bulb brand replacement.

Your welcome - no biggie really, you would of discovered it eventually. Glad you got'er fixed.

On my 96 OBW, the cigarett lighter had a melted "bridge wire" that is soldered between the connection posts on the back of the socket. My theory is this "bridge wire" is designed to melt, and open the circuit, if prolonged high heat from the socket, (ex. it's heating element stuck and not releasing), is sustained. It's a double backup in conjunction with the fuse to reduce the risk of fire, and can "blow" just like the wire in a fuse. So, you should pull the socket assembly and check the rear connections - not a bad job. I simply took some 60/40 electrical solder and reconnected the gap on the connects. It's been working fine for over a year. (I power a laptop from this socket and probably taxing the maximum load it can handle). Hope this helps.

http://www.state.mn.us/mn/externalDocs/Commerce/Gasoline_Octane_Facts_102902052227_OctaneFacts.pdf

Actually I think they do quite well in the rain. And I've spend I lot of time on the back roads of northern Minnesota as well as logging roads (really rough) in Canada during fishing trips (also towing a Lund fishing boat) and the Yokohama's performed fine. But there are better tires out there I agree. I was primarily marking their good performance/value ratio - I believe I paid just a tad over $200 for 4 tires + shipping from Tirerack. That was a couple of years ago. Still, not bad for tire with 80K wear rating (I'll be happy to get 60K).

I like the Yokohama Avid Touring on my 96 OBW, fairly quiet, good handling and tread life. Only average in snow though. Much more affordable than the Michelin's. Have you visited Tirerack.com for reseach?

Quote: OnStar is ALWAYS on. Not if it's been disabled. _______________________________ Blitz, So is possible that On-Star systems have been built into the newer cars, even though you may not have ordered it during the original sale? How do you locate/recognize, and disable such a system? Have read articles on the web and hearing discussions on talk radio about the use of black boxes, RFID, GPS global tracking by government authorities is, to say the least, alarming.

A master mechanic at a local Subaru dealer once told me that if you want to "warm up" properly on your first startup of the day, it's important on automatic transmissions to put it in neutral after the engine is running. This gets the oil in the tranny flowing. Leaving it in park does nothing. Suppose to be easier on tranny's. Anyone confirm this?

Haven't notice the problem on my 05 OBW-XT. Perhaps this problem is the opposite where the cruise was programmed for the turbo models, and affects the non-turbos...?

Same symptoms of the precursor to head gasket failure in my 96' at 130K, had the same black crud floating in the coolant - may or may not be related though as I am not sure if it was/is a symtom warning of HG failer. At 138K mine started to have bubbling in the coolant and slow rise in the temperture gauge above normal. Keep an "eye" on it and have it checked with a leak-down test. How many miles on yours BTW??

Jamie, Where can you find OEM for that price? I think the last time I checked at 1stsubaruparts.com last year (I consider them to among the best for prices) they sold OEMs for around $60.

I had the same problem on the socket in my 96 OBW recently. I think the wire is a solder-like material that will melt easily if the current and/or the socket itself produces too much heat for any extended time. I simply used electical solder to repair the bridge between the contacts. Works fine now.

Look on Tirerack.com for Yokohama's 3rd set of Avid Tourings on my 96 Replaced the lousy Bridgestone Potenzas at 25K with Yokohama's H4S's on the 05.... I like them both.

Steve, On the advice posts above, have you noticed what your oil consumption has been at oil changes?

Yep, thats the price, I'm waiting for my credit on the old core. I actually screwed up on returning the old core: When you receive the rebuilt it will come in a white box inside the shipping box. The white box you will use to send the old alt back, and it has FROM: and TO: fields with the TO: field already printed with Subaru of America address in Ohio. Well, you need to send it back to Auburn Subaru in Washington state. They then ship a gross amount of old alts back to the SOA address, they get credited and credit you. Anyway Jason at Auburn straighten out my mistake and I should be receiving my credit soon on the old core (I hope...) Note: You do have to pay the shipping on the old core back to Auburn.

Buy a rebuilt from 1stsubaruparts.com (Auburn Subaru) - $67 plus shipping (plus $50 charge until original core is returned). I just replaced the alt in my 96 OBW going this route. 12mo/12k warranty.... 866-528-5282 talk to Jason in Parts

If this lends any comfort, I had to have the front cam/oil pump seals done at 60K on my 96 OBW, now at 175K and still holding.

I think the universial conclusion is that synthetic does have proven viscosity stability - this translate to less wear on cold engine startups and reduced breakdown during high temperture performance. Still, I have not seen conclusive studies that compare results of long term (say > 200K miles) uses between synthetic and conventional oils. In either case, regular oil/filter changes are the best protection. If you got the cash and it gives you a warm and fuzzy about engine maintenance - go synthetic BTW, I personally have not seen any fuel economy gains on my 2005 XT after switching from conventional to Mobil-1 synthetic, but use it due to the temperture extremes here in MN (thats my warm(and cold) fuzzy weather reasoning for using it).

Hopefully you'll get some replies on this board; this link may provide answers to your question: http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/ed_displayMakeModelRelatedDiscussions!make=Subaru&model=Impreza%20WRX%20STi

I had stopped in yesterday evening to talk to some of the service people I know about some minor issues with my 05 OBW (though I was driving my 96 OBW). The sales manager who sold me my 96 subie saw me come in, and after some chit-chat, he gave me the keys to his "dealer" Tribeca he was driving as his everyday car and insisted I take it for test drive. This vehicle was black in color, leather and loaded with probably every option available. I thought I'd share my quick/initial impressions with you all. I took it out for about a 10 mile drive, on the freeway and in a residental area. PROs: -Very good fit and finish inside and out. -Roomy front seats -Well laid out cockpit instrutments and controls (I like the central LCD status display for the controls) -Good frontal and side visability -Generally good tracking with quick steering (Felt as though the Tribeca has a quicker steering ration setup than my 05 OBW XT, interesting) Cons: -The H6 feels underpowered on this vehicle -Poor visability out the rear and rear corner panels. (Backing the vehicle up into it's original parking spot, I had a difficult time judging the distance in the back end. The rear window is way too high and too small IMO) -Higher road noise, epecially on concrete pavement, than the 05 Outbacks, could of been the tires though, Goodyears but I don't recall the model. -While the vehicle has quick responsive steering, I found that quick lane changes, at highway speed (60mph), made the vehicle "swagger" - no doubt due to it's top heavier body. Quick manuevering in the neigborhood was fine ((20-40mph) -I still don't like the looks of the front-end, sorry. I was mostly disappointed with the performance matchup of the H6 on the Tribeca. Not exactly gutless, but I was expecting better freeway on-ramp acceleration. I don't know what it is, but the hp/torque just didn't feel right. I am use to driving the 05 Turbo Outback now, a lighter vehicle with more torque, and I think the Tribeca is about 500lbs heavier than the Outback XT). But even my 96 OBW feels like it has faster acceleration (more linear too). Anyway, generally a nice vehicle, but not my cup of tea. I see room for Subaru to make improvements on the Tribeca. The sales manager seem disappointed with some my "Cons" feedback but did agree on my perception of the handling - though he said the "swagger" was not as bad as other SUVs.... Paul

I believe the Subaru rails are bolt/nut mounted, at least on my 96 OBW. That area of the roof is reinforce. Never had a problem with the just the factory rails for *normal* loads (up to 4 bikes), canoes, etc.

The factory rails are fine, it's just the factory crossbars on the rails that are highly questionable (IMHO).

Try searching http://www.etrailer.com/. If there is a low profile/hidden hitch that will fit your vehicle, they'll probably carry it. In fact, here's the search: http://www.etrailer.com/products.asp?model=Impreza&category=hitch&year=2004&make=Subaru&t1=&h=e

My vote is to go with Thule. I worked at a Bike/Ski shop several years ago and I've owned both Yakima and Thule rack and accessories. On my 05 OBW I currently have Thule crossroads, 50" load bars with 599 bike mounts, and load stops for the canoe. The Thule quality seems to be a bit better than Yakima's in terms of hardware corrosion and rusting over time (bolts, fasteners, etc). That said, both systems work equally well, and many accessories from each manufacturer can be used on the other's. Just a word of caution: don't use Subaru's factory crossbars as load bars for the bike mounts, get the proper Thule towers and load bars . I used the Mighty Mounts that clamp right over the crossbars on my 96 OBW). They're fine for hauling the bike(s) to the park a few miles away, but on longer trips and on backroads where the car may be justle around from ditches, potholes, etc., the mass of the bikes wanting to sway from side to side will weaken the crossbars eventually. The factory crossbars work fine for cargo carrier boxs, ski equipment, etc.