PAezb

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=7590&page=1&highlight=speed+sensor

I have contacted several dealer service departments in my area to ask those 2 questions 1) Does leaving the FWD fuse in all the time help the gas mileage? And 2) Can you damage any part of the drivetrain by doing so? All the techs answered that they did not know whether gas mileage would improve. All but 1 of the techs stated they do not recommend leaving the cars in FWD for extended periods of time as damage may result. The other tech simply did not know - an honest answer. Interetingly, while the duty solenoid does take on added stress by leaving the car in FWD, I was told it's the clutch packs (2 of them - 1 for the front and 1 for the rear?) that would be prone to problems. The prime example given would be going back to AWD after running in FWD for a long time can lead to the classic torque bind problem. The Subaru AWD systems are particularly touchy, and everything in the driveline needs to be in sync in order to be working properly. Uneven wear in the clutch packs/transaxle/tire circumferences etc can/will affect the operation. So, the bottom line is from what I've been told by the people who should know (in the professional sense) is leave your Subaru in AWD. Paul

Thanks for the link p3pppx. I look forward to receiving and trying the free sample. For the tires, l'm quite happy with how the More Shine Less Time went on and is holding up. BTW, the other product that I mentioned earlier but couldn't remember the name just then, the one with the neat litte curved sponge applicators was a product called Eagle One.

Well, I got the Stoner More Shine Less Time, so far so good. Made a big difference in the appearance of the tires. We'll see how it holds up over time. I couldn't find the McGuire's Gel mentioned in a previous post but the sales people at Checker Auto also recommend another product, which now I can't remember the name - will post it later. It had a small spray bottle and the packaging included 2 sponge like applicators, curved to match the tire. It was only $2.99 and I bought it primarily for the applicators which I used with the Stoner's product. But I may try it on the next application to compare it with the Stoner Product.

The Bridgestone Potenza's that came on my 05 OBW XT look awful if left alone. Plain washing doesn't help. The tire's performance seems pretty good on both dry and wet roads however - better than the Michelins that were original on my 96 OBW. So, I'm not quite ready to replace them just yet. Yes, I can understand getting some dressing on the shoulders of the tire could affect corning. I'm still looking at product options.

Thanks for the info guys. Just so many products on the shelfs in the autoparts store I wasn't sure what I should be considering. Mike, I'll certainly look for the Stoner products - thanks again. Paul

Anyone recommend a good tire sidewall product to dress up and maintain that nice black/wet look? I've used both Armor-All and Turtle Wax's 2001, and while they're fine for the interior finishes, neither seems to stay on the tires too long, especially when driving through rain. Thanks for any opinions.

The mechanic can do compression tests on the cylinders/check for hydrocarbons in the coolant, and do general inspection for wet/weeping spots around the heads. Besides HGs, inquire on whether any of the oil seals have been replaced. Hesitation and a check engine light could point to several areas. EGR system failure, an O2 sensor, IAC valve, etc. Your mechanic will put an a scanner on the car and will read what error code(s) are set, which will point to the general system that is failing. Contrary to what was stated above, you don't need to run premium fuel in this engine, it runs very well with 87 octane (Owner's manual states you may run 87 too, just that premium is recommended. I run 87 almost all the time in my 96 OBW/2.5 and it runs fine. Subaru engines are by nature, noisy. And they tend to get noisier with age. But I've notice the same on other makes/models as well. Some ticking is, in my opinion, normal. If there is any "clapping' noise", it could be piston slap or a noisy hydrolic tensioner, but probably nothing to be concerned about. Your mechanic should be able to tell you. I have a 150k miles on my 96, major repairs were HGs @ 138k and timing belt/gaskets/oil seals @ 103k. Smaller items I've done myself like replacing several sensors (VSS, knock, Crank Angle, O2, EGR transducer), replaced the bulbs in the climate control and switches. These smaller things you can do yourself and you have a great forum here to find help. Wonderful cars to work on yourself in terms of ease. On my 96. the body and interior are in great shape even though I've neglected it for the last couple of years. Car runs great (getting 22 to 24 mpg mixed, and 25 to 29 highway). Perfect dog car! I'm expecting to drive mine to 200k Anyway, as with any used car being considered, have your trusted mechanic check it out completed. Good Luck!

Welcome to the "Fix It With A Nail" club...

I think I was the one that suggested using steelwool as an option, or at least I had the idea. But what I ended up using was 3 inch carpenter nails pounded and wedged in between the shields and exhaust pipe. Its been a few years since I did it (96 OBW) and no returning rattles. I think I did have to use a worm clamp also on the shield just forward of the rear cat as for some reason I couldn't get a nail in there. Anyway, thats what worked for me. Good Luck

Duane, VW are fine vehicles, but not without their own problems. Watch out for electrical/power equipment issues. Also note the reliability ratings history in sources like Consumer Reports (yes, I know, taken with a grain of salt) but I believe these ratings generally tend to be accurrate. Hybrid technology is still a bit early in proven worth in my book. The demand for these cars has driven the price up. I've talk to people who own them, and while they like/love their vehicles, they have repeatedly stated they do not meet the gas milage ratings they advertise - but still better than non-hybrid models. And watch the cost-of-ownership rise when it comes time to perform powertrain maintenance and battery replacement out of warranty. As for Chevy, I test drove both the Equinox and Malibu Maxx and there is no comparison, in my opinion, to the fit & finish, powertrain smoothness, drivability, and overall quality to the new Subaru's which are much better. I also have friends who own and drive various Chevy trucks. While I think they would still stand behind their choice in vehicle brand, you could get them started if you ask them what problems they have had with their vehicles... With the above said, I would probably agree with you that Subie's today may not be as tough as those in the late 80's. But they have evolved into more refined, better handling, and fun-to-drive vehicles (if you haven't already, take a 2005 GT or Outback XT for a test drive). I too, would prefer simpler electronics and controls, just for the sake of reliability. I also have to admit I like the modern touches on my 2005 OBW XT. You'll all have to ask my opinion again on what I think of this car in years 4 thru 10. Time will tell. Evidently, Subaru has determined the market demand for today and produces it's products accordingly - not always to the liking of it's long time loyal customer base. I doubt there are any vehicles today, including some of the big trucks, that can go 200K miles without spending some money for major repairs or hassling with smaller annoyances along the way. Yes, I'm sure some of you have newer vehicles that have or will have well beyond 200K on them - with proper maintenance and repairs. Some may/will be better than others, but I have to tell ya, after researching new vehicles and talking to many owners for over 2 years, all vehicles have issues, and even with the more popular brands/models, these issues tend to even out between them. Anyway, enjoy your VW(s) - they're nice vehicles. Paul

Another thing you might try towards diagnosis - I'm assuming you have a FWD fuse holder in the engine bay to put the car into front wheel drive only? Try putting the 15A fuse in and then see if the shudder changes. Just a thought

In addition to the tranny fluid, check the condition of your tire wear and alignment. The Subie AWD systems can be pretty touchy if tire circumference (all 4 matching) and alignment aren't within specs and can contribute to the torque bind you're describing.

From my post on a previous thread about speedometers and speed sensors.... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=67309&postcount=10

Did they also go from DOHC to SOHC then, or was that in later models?

That's me and I have to chuckle... haven't you ever played Office BS Bingo? Improper torque is another item to add to list for possible causes, as is the redesign/revisions of the HG as mentioned by 99obw above.

Flushing and changing coolant on regular intervals is always good practice. But according to the numerous Subie mechanics and sales people I've spoken to, the main HG issue is more to do with the expanding/contracting of the engine block and heads - especially when the engine heats up rapidly. With the above in mind, the concensus is that we Subie owners/drivers are to blame. When starting the car with a cold engine, the driver should let the engine idle and warm up for a few minutes before taking off, especially when the climate is cold. It's the driver and how hard they drive the engine right after a cold startup over time, that results in premature HG failure. In addition and compounding the problem, one person I spoke to at a dealership suggested that the engine block and heads are of slightly different alloys, allowing different rates of expansion and contraction during heating up/cooling down. But I have not been able to confirm this. I guess I must of treated my 96 2.5 OBW decently as my HG failure didn't occur until the car was 8 yrs old with 140k miles. My opinion though is the HGs should be a non-issue for the life of the car/engine, regardless of how hard it's been driven.

Recently been hearing much discussion on talk radio and local news about the introduction of little black boxes in new autos. These "boxes" are sophisticated electronics that can monitor and record the driver's control over the vehicle, such as speed, direction, braking, etc. And these devices can be easily modified to include by themselves, or with services such as On-Star, GPS (global positioning satelite) to track a vehicle anytime. Now, the application for this is to reconstruct conditions after say, an accident, or to track/find a stolen vehicle. All well and fine, but the radio/news program have brought up the arguments about the possibility for law enforcement, or other agencies, to illegally invade on your privacy - as here in the U.S., under the 4th Amendment. So, is anyone aware if Subaru has these little black boxes - in the U.S. or elsewhere. Can they be disabled. Is it legal to disable them? Comments?

Thanks for replies. Not ever having owned a turbo anything, is there any other considerations in costs/maintenance above and beyond the normal routine stuff? Since the 3.0R H6 OB are a little higher than I want to spend (plus I'm not a fan of leather interiors which is all they offer), I'm seriously considering the 2.5 XT. Opinions? Anyone get to drive a 2005 2.5 XT OB yet?

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/outback/outback2005.html#mechanicals Found this neat little page on the new Subaru Outback specs. I have a question concerning the 2.5 XT (turbo) - Subaru recommends 91 Octane for the turbo model, but can you run 87 Octane on turbo without severely affecting it's performance? Just considering the economics with the cost of gasoline these days....

I agree. Along with the already numerous sensors, solenoids, and other electronic gadgetry, another complicated system prone to failure and added expenses. I've seen no write-ups to the benefits of this type of system - Anyone?

I had the mechanic throw in the NGK V-Powers on my 2.5 Phase I engine when it was at the dealer for new HGs. I can't say I've notice a performance increase, or decrease, over the 1500 miles I've put on the car so far. The plugs they replaced were the Bosch Platinums +4s with almost 76K on them (63K to 139K). And yes, I've heard the complaints with Subie engines and Bosch plugs. However, mine performed well I thought, with expected mpg for this engine, and the plugs really didn't show any indication that they needed to be changed. Maybe I need more driving time with the NGK coppers plugs. Perhaps the HG job negated the performance increase I should be noticing with the new plugs, I just don't know. I'm glad that I've got new plugs installed and won't have to worry about them, for another >30K anyway. The NGK V-Power were about $3 less than the Bosch platinum, but hardly worth the savings if the performance is unchanged, and replacement interval is half that of the platinums. Wonder what the reason is for Subaru switching to Champions over NGKs in the new vehicles?

With the 05's starting to show up at dealerships (at least with the Outbacks anyways), they'll want to move the 04's as quickly as possible, so I'd think you should be able to do $1K to $2K below invoice - not counting trade-in. If color/trim/options are flexable, pit dealers against each other, find out who wants your business. And ask up front for the "out the door" price - let the dealer figure out where they want to divide up the sale (vehicle price, destination charges, taxes, and any of those silly/BS fees they try to tack on, like a filing fee, during the closing of the deal, etc, etc...)

I've used both products, Seafoam and MMO, on my 96 OBW. I simply love the Seafoam, and use it regularly on the Subaru and all our small engine equipment for the yard - great stuff. The MMO didn't do well in the Subaru, as it made it run rough. I have a friend who has owns his own Cesna airplane, and he and his mechanic use MMO in their aircraft engines and swear by MMO. I guess Subaru engines, for whatever reason don't like the MMO.

I like Catrol's High Milage Oil, 5-30 in winter, 10-30 in summer. My perception is that it did make a noticable improvement in quieting the ticking and other engine noises on my 96 OBW. I' ve used Valvoline in the the past, and still think it is a fine product, Castrol just seemed to make the engine a bit quieter...