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well crap, their utility doesn't list the Brighton as an option, though I would think it is the same as a standard Legacy wagon. Also, the utility doesn't list speaker depth - just speaker brand/model recommendations. The catalogs I use to get in the mail use to have several pages of car listings with detail size/fit requirements, but I guess the online util doesn't offer it.... Sorry. Paul

You will also need to pay attention to the depth measurement of the speakers you are installing. Crutchfield, http://www.crutchfield.com , use to have a utility to which you can look up your vehicle and find the size requirements. Check there. Paul

Thanks, I'd appreciate that. Yeah I might as well replace them, but I'm curious on how the currect wire values are holding up after 130K. BTW, I've had to throw a little money and work into this car this past year - failing sensors, timing belt, tire, fluid changes, etc. All normal expenses I expect. With the replacement of plugs and wires, this should be it for a while. The only worry, would be to have the original head gaskets go which we all know these phase I engines are notorious for, on TOP of the work and money invested so far. So I'd apprciated a little Subie prayer for my OBW...(attempted humor here...:-p ) I still like the car... Paul

Thanks for all your replies. The plugs that I have in there now, (I know most of you will be rolling your eyes... ), are Bosch Platinums +4s. I've got 70K on these and I have to say I have been very happy with them - they were about $5 a piece if I remember correctly. The idle and acceleration is still good. I've had no misfires, and no CELs, that I was told by the dealer might happen when they were installed. I may wait a just a bit longer to pull them but I figure they'll need to be replaced soon. I was considering the Iridiums due to the comments of others here on what a PITA it is to change the plugs, and to go with longer life plugs. Is the 120K ratings on Iridiums realistic? The Bosch plugs were put in around 62K by the dealer (also had oil leaks so the seals were done then also). But given the high prices the dealer charges I have been doing most of the maintenance myself ever since, so I know my way around the engine bay pretty well - maybe it won't be that bad. I may still throw the V-Powers in there just to see if I notice any "performance improvement". I guess I better check the resistance of the wires too - they are still the originals. Anyone know what the values should be? Paul

OK, OK. I know spark plugs have been discussed to death here, but I need a warm and fuzzy from any of you on a purchase of NGK V-Power plugs that I plan to install in my 96 OBW/2.5/auto/130K. I originally went into the local auto parts store to inquire the price on the NGK Iridiums plugs - $21 a piece - yikes!!! The counter guy shakes his head and said he could order the iridiums for me, but sold me on a set of V-Power NGK at under $2 a piece. I was originally thinking the Iridiums just for the fact that I didn't want to replace the plugs again for the remaining life ,or ownership, of the car. At $2 a piece I'm wondering how good these plugs are. Comments? Paul

Just to add my final experience, it appears I finally got rid of the returning CEL and P0400 by replacing the Back Pressure Transducer - $48 + shipping from 1stsubaruparts.com. I had previously replaced the EGR Soleniod, cleaned the vacuum lines and EGR valve, replaced the EGR gasket and vacuum hoses, all with no affect. Now with several hundred miles since the BPT replacement, no returning CEL. Keeping fingers crosssed. Hope you all with the P0400 code can get it resolved soon. That CEL light is sure annoying to have glaring at so frequently and for long periods. I almost resorted to pulling the bulb from the instrumentation cluster. I'm in love with my Subie again....: Paul 96 OBW/2.5 auto 130K miles

Also try this site: http://www.med.uc.edu/pstp/students/fortner/rulights.htm The Radio Shack bulbs mention in the page work very well and are only $1.50 for 2/pkg. BTW, these same bulbs are used in the switch indicators/backlighting for the fog lamps, rear defroster, cruise, had heated seats.

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If you're not getting any warning lamps, my best guesses would be the belt tensioner. But if it's more of a vertical knock, maybe even a broken motor mount....?? These are just guesses... waiting for heavies on this forum to chime in.

A timing belt tensioner going bad?

I second the use of SeaFoam Motor TuneUp. I use a third of a can in the motor oil 500 miles before oil change. A can in a full gas tank every 3 months or so. And, a can sucked into the throttle body via a vacuum line revving the engine between 2-3K rpm whenever performance seems to be lagging - usually a couple of time a year. Little under $4.00 a can at Fleet Frams here in the upper midwest. Paul

96 OBW 2.5/auto Minnesota Results: Excellent, smoother shifts especially in cold. Even seem to cure the small amount of torque bind experienced on tight cornering.

Replaced both front and rear differentials with Mobil-1 75w-90 at 100K. Now have 130K and no problems. Winter (Minnesota) shifts seem a bit smoother with the synthetic gear oil - and I'm still running non-synth tranny fluid. 96 OBW/auto 2.5

A closer view....

rumlow, I'm sorry this won't help you directly but it is topic thread related. To help anyone with a newer Sube with an auto, I've attached a pic showing it's VSS (vehicle speed sensor) location, passenger side just forward of the diff dip stick (somewhat hidden under the white connector in the pic). It has a 2-wire connector. I've placed the old VSS in front of the new installed one to show what it looks like. Not sure if all model years later than mine will be the same - 96 OBW/auto 2.5 In my case, the bad VSS was causing the speedo needle to jump wildly when below 30mph, then would act normal above 30mph. Also affected the tranny's shifts. Other speedometer problems could be caused by another VSS that's located in the speedometer head itself - a buffer circuit that the ECU uses. Fortunately, my problem was the cheaper and easier fix of the 2 VSS's. Hope this helps someone else.

I too am *still* having issues with my 96 OBW/auto. I have cleaned the metal tube lines, and EGR valve, replaced all vacuum hoses, replaced the EGR soleniod - still get the P0400 code. I'm thinking of replacing the BPT as well. Hey Commuter, how much is that pressure/vacuum sensor you replace? Funny thing is the car seems to run and shift fine. Watching the EGR valve when revving the engine between 2K/3Krpm it appears to be operating correctly. Maybe the ECU's circuit handling the EGR functions is faulty.... Paul

I really appreciate forums like these as I have been educated on many DIY repairs and parts pricing, saving some serious cash. Don't be afraid to bitch to the Service Manager and Owner of the dealership about their prices on labor and parts if you feel they're out of line. Call Subaru and bitch to them as well and tell them that these high markups on labor and parts affect your bottom line of yearly cost of ownership, and your next car purchase may not be a Subaru. It really bothers me to look at some of these parts, the relatively non-complex in design and materials, and what looks like to be a $10 part to produce actually costs $126 to the consumer!!?? Please!!!! IMO, auto part prices is somewhat analogous to the price gouging going on in the US with prescription drugs. Unfortunately, I have had to bow to the dealership's pricing for certain maintenance/repairs that was beyond my capabilities or time constraint. And I can, to some extent, appreciate the dealer's investment in shop overhead and training to repair these vehicles - they do need to make profit. But a lot of the routine/minor repair work can be done by the average person with a few simple tools, armed with a little knowledge, and for a lot less money. Sorry for ranting, this topic is a pet peeve of mine. Taking my Prozac now.... Paul

BTW, for anyone thinking they have to replace their catalytic converter(s) due to an ECL indicating the cat(s) are bad - always replace at least the front O2 sensor. My sister who lives in Jersey took their 96 Legacy L wagon into their independent mechanic - STS I believe is the business name. They quoted her somewhere around $1500 to replace the exhaust system after and ECL reported a bad catalytic. I questioned her about how the car was running, eliminating the possibility of a clogged cat causing backpressure problems and then told her to go purchase the front O2 sensor from oxygensensors.com and have them install it first (she and her husband aren't mechanically inclined to do it themselves). She had nothing to loose as they would have replaced the O2's anyway as part of the complete exhaust. Well guess what, the ECL went away and they have had no trouble since. Also, if you know the part number, use the 1stSubaruPart.com website to lookup the cost of the part. They have a disclaimer at the bottom of the page that says they charge 20% above cost on ALL parts - should give you a good ideal just what the hometown dealership's markup is.... https://www.1stsubaruparts.com/part_number.html Paul

I replaced my front O2 sensor on my 96 OBW about a year ago. I was able to do it working from above and with a crescent wrench no less! The forward O2 sensor on the 2.5 is located on the front catalytic converter, passenger side, just underneath the driveshaft (mine is greenish in color). You should be able to get a open-end wrench in there from top of the engine bay, I believe it is 22mm. It is a bit of a tight fit but doable. If you can jack up the car to work from below, it would be easier. Warm up the engine first, but not too hot - that should help "break" the O2 loose when removing. I bought my O2 from buyoxygensensors.com, paid $60 for the direct fit connection type. Didn't care for the hassle of splicing the connection to save $20. Definitely improved my mpg by a couple. Paul

If you can get under the car, simply use a hammer to tap on the shields to find out which ones rattle - you'll be able to tell by the sound. forward heat shields are usually the culprits, the ones covering the pipes coming of the manifolds and the ones right before the catalytic converter. Solutions: You could have someone "spot weld" the shields to the pipe. Others have stuffed a heat resistant material between the offending shield and pipe (steel wool, bits of steel/stainless scouring pads). On my 96 OB, I used large carpenter nails, driving them between the shield and pipe - 3 years ago and still no rattles.... Or you could simply remove them as Josh suggested. Paul

Might what to check the EGR system also. If the EGR valve is opening early (rpm below 2000) this will cause hesitation and engine stumbling people are discribing. Instead of using water in the vacuum of the throttle body, I've let the engine suck up a can of Seaform Motor TuneUp - good results. Paul 96 OB w/125K

I have only test driven a 2004 H6 Outback a couple of times - a bit quieter and smoother than my 96 OB 2.5. I have to agree I didn't feel much difference in acceleration over the 2.5. I'm trying to decide if I should purchase a 2004 H6 now or wait until the 2005 model comes out - that H6 will have variable valve timing and 245hp. Paul

I don't if you have a local library there, but many county/state libraries in the US have the Haynes/Chilton manuals in their catalogs for checkout - just a thought. Paul