PAezb
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Posts posted by PAezb
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the easy solution would be to get an inline FM modulator. VERY simple. plugs into your antenna and essentially transmits anything (Ipod, cell phone, MP3, whatever) over a radio station.
i installed one in my XT6, works great and you don't have to change your radio.
they have wireless ones do that are very simple to use, but not as good sound quality and may have more interference.
I have not used one of these - is there the possibility that other drivers near you can pick up on the signal on their radios? (say if you're on a private cell phone call)
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Not sure if Impreza's would handle these well. The Tribeca, Outback and Legacys and Forester's should have no issues in non-mountainous areas: I tow a 13 ft Casita Deluxe with my OBW.
I don't recommend anything larger than the 13ft models except for the new Tribeca which should be able to handle a 16 footer.
http://www.casitatraveltrailers.com/13-layout.html
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/ Check out all the Brand/Models - lots of options.....
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/index.php?showforum=52
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I haven't ordered yet for my 96 OBW, but will be doing so very soon. Seems to be a few thumbs up here on the board on these:
http://www.ccrengines.com/mwe/index.html
Previous threads on topic:
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86449&highlight=axle+replacement
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=83907&page=2&highlight=axle+replacement
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80970&page=4&highlight=axle+replacement
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Alright, here we go again. 05 OBW XT with 59K - was going to have the coolant and tranny fluids "flushed". Dealers here in the Twin Cities are offering on a drain and fill on both but not a flush - they say Subaru doesn't recommend a "flush" on either. I was told by one service dept that flushes are not recommended as they could break loose some sediment buildup that may cause problems (what? are they afraid some sediment around the HGs may be a good thing and cleaning it out may cause leaks?
)Anyway, the going price for the drain n' fill is around $99 (each), which for that price I may just as well do myself. One dealer would do a tranny flush but at $159.
I was thinking that I'd have the dealer do these services inside the 60K warranty just in case if there were any issues down the road the service is documented. I've always been a proponent of flushing those systems out - I just like the idea of near complete fluid change.
What say all you - should I just go the drain n' fill route?
Update: I'm a little miffed on the tone and response of the dealers not wanting to do a flush on these systems since they were always happy to take my money in the past for those services on my 96 Outback. So, I just got off the phone with SOA, and the official response is they do not recommend flushes because they have not, and cannot test those flushing machines that the dealers (or independents) use, and cannot state whether the machine and or process may or may not cause damage
I have to assume SOA may have had some warranty issues in the past on such services done and they have defined their service policy now to only drain and fills to protect themselves.
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I had the same problem with my 96 OBW when doing the brake job last summer. Ended up destroying the rubber boot getting the pin out - and having to buy a Subaru's caliper rebuilt kit (all new rubber boots, piston seals, clips, grease for $20 - covers both front calipers). Well worth it rather than trying to save the original boots from sticking slider pins....
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No recommendations, but your research should begin here:
http://www.crutchfield.com/app/product/category.aspx?c=3&cc=01&cm_re=internal_nav*target1
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=160
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The 96 owners manual states 91 Octane is recommended, but 87 can be used.
For the 12+ years I have owned my 96 OBW (237K). I normally put 87 in it, occassionally 89, and 91 when towing. I can't tell much if there is a increase in power at 91 but would probably say it seems to run best on 89.
I wouldn't worry too much about it.
Oh, and yes the 96 2.5 has hydraulic lifters....
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This isn't what you asked for, but I run 88 octane gasohol in my turbo Baja all the time (91 octane 'required'). So long as I'm just driving around there's no issue at all. To the point you asked about: Try HEET (alcohol) if you can find big enough containers on sale. That'll raise it as much as anything and be much, much less expensive. Still, I'd try it on 88 (probably 89 in your area?) and see how it runs. Just fine, I bet. Worst that'll happen is you don't get much power.
I have put 89 once in a great while, and its seems to run fine with that (I don't/won't spool the Turbo up though). I thought products like HEET were hard on the CATs and such.
BTW I don't know if your last reply was because of my comment about the mule and your username - I just have to post...
There are moose in northern Minnesota as you know - could be a alternative...
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My gut feeling tells me that playing around with home brew recipes for upping the octane is just risking engine/fuel system damage and reduced engine life.
Maybe it's ok with an older high mileage car if one is willing to to do one's own repairs or rebuilds that may be needed as a result.
But on, say, a 2005 OBW XT, don't look for trouble. So gas prices in certain neighborhoods are 50 cents more per gallon....just pay it. Engine damage resulting from fecking around with do-it-yourself chemistry can easily result in many thousands of $$$$$ in repairs. Is it worth the risk?
And proprietary octane boost additives from your local auto supply store are not cost effective and are, at best, only marginally effective.
We'll all be paying $5, $6, $7 a gallon for gas (and possibly even higher:eek:) in the next few years anyway, so just get used to it. The overall cost of driving and maintaining a car is high and getting higher all the time. That's just the way it is.
If ya don't want to assume the higher and higher costs of car ownership, then just don't own a car. Paying more and more for gas is just something ya need to accept. You've got a turbo engine in your Sube; ya have to pay a price for that. And Subies, being AWD vehicles, are not the most frugal on gas, anyway. Either "pay, or don't play", period.
That's my 2 cents.
I agree totally with you're statements above - all considered when I purchased the Turbo, among many other factors. I'm just learning that the Octane boosters don't boost enough to even consider, let alone ramifications to the engine and fuel system.
So....
Anyone know of a low mileage mule for sale...
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From: http://autos.msn.com/advice/CRArt.aspx?contentid=4023696
Quote
"Most auto batteries are made by just three manufacturers, Delphi, Exide, and Johnson Controls Industries. Each makes batteries sold under several different brand names. Delphi makes ACDelco and some EverStart (Wal-Mart) models. Exide makes Champion, Exide, Napa, and some EverStart batteries. Johnson Controls makes Diehard (Sears), Duralast (AutoZone), Interstate, Kirkland (Costco), Motorcraft (Ford), and some EverStarts." end quote.
I believe the original battery in my 96 Subaru was a manufactured by Johnson Controls (Had 8 years on it before exchange which it didn't need to - but I was doing batteries for a couple other vehicles at the time).
An interesting article of what may be possible to replacing batteries in the future... http://www.technologyreview.com/read_article.aspx?ch=specialsections&sc=batteries&id=18086&a=
Read comments following article...
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my sister has my old 98 impreza 2.2l 2door. and she needs to put in trailer this weekend so she can drive back to pa from vt. i told her i would ask around for her on any ideas. i read this thead. do you suppose her car would have a harness also? thanx nick
I don't think so - only Outbacks, maybe the Foresters of that vintage. But to be sure contact a local dealer or SOA and let them provide the answer.
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Very happy with the Raybestos rotors and pads I replaced at 211K on my 96 Outback (now 235K). $150 for complete rotors/pads GS Semi-metallic, except for the front - upgrade to the PG pads. I think there every bit as good as the OE - maybe better as I had warping problems with Subaru's rotors. At the price, given the age of the car, my driving habits, this was a no-brainer in choosing Raybestos or OE.
Others here will disagree.
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2nd the recommendation for Interstate batteries - I've had good experiences with their product's performance and reasonable cost.
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Ok, so I have a 05 OBW XT, which we all know requires premium fuel (Turbo = 91 Octane minimum). In the Twin Cities, 91/92 Octane typically runs around $0.15/0.20 more than 87 Octane - no biggie. However in my regular travels to northern MN I've frequently had to pay $0.40 to $0.50 per gallon more for 91, which 87 is already $.20 more than in the TC - biggie. So, I've begun my research into purchasing an Octane booster to add to 87 for cost savings when up north.
I was in Wally World checking out the Octane booster products which typically run $2 to $5 per bottle to treat a tank of gas (15 gallons). But most of the products do not state how much their product will raise the octane level.
Anyone with experience and product suggestions...?
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And maybe call SOA and tell them what a PITA it is to find the connector... it shouldn't be that difficult.
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The connector for my 05 OBW XT is on the driver side as well. I did find references on googling that appears that some MY 00 to 04 may be on the passenger side:rolleyes:
You'd think Subaru would standardize something like this...
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Are the other gauges functioning normally?
Does your vehicle shift ok, no jolts or hesitation?
Is the bounce of the needle consistant or varies wildly?
Does the bounce occur if you manually put the transmission in 1st, 2nd, 3rd, Drive, Reverse?
Does the CEL come on?
Describe what happens when you take your foot off the pedal, does the needle fall back to zero?
Possibilities:
Intermittant break in the cable or connector to sensors or gauges
An issue with the ECU/TCU with regards to the signal coming from the VSS sensors.
Problem with the mechcanical "tab" drive mating the tranning to VSS-2
Long shot - try discconnect battery to reset ECU
Other than that I don't know what to tell you to try.
Anyone else....?
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My ’03 Outback Limited has me admitting defeat regarding finding the plug for the trailer light harness. I’ve moved/removed a good amount of “covering” on both sides for better access to no avail, looked into different forums for instructions, saw a number of pictures etc, all for not. The left rear light assembly has a 12volt outlet, a drain for the lid and some wires going into the assembly. There is a cable bundle in back of the rear seat going from one side to the other which I followed closely and it comes out in the area of the rear right speaker with a “lot of wires” just in back of the right tail light assembly. I pulled the side covering out while my wife ran her hand inside feeling for any plug a number of times from the back of the rear seat to the lights. NOTHING! Might it be that this model does not have this connector I’m in search of?
I’m fairly good mechanically having retired from the service business some years ago and do most repairs around the house and for friends. I guess X Ray vision would help.
Any pointers deeply appreciated. Vic.
etrailer.com - the picture on this webpage is for the Forester, but if you read on it states that connector for the Outback is located on the drivers side (Should be the same for all later 200x Outbacks).
http://www.etrailer.com/pc-VWH~118370.htm?vehicleid=20032410
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Very interesting about the new gauge cluster/temp light... I'm surprised a full needle gauge isn't optional.
I also noticed this from: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/forester/forester2009.html
That's interesting, I wonder what "type" of coolant this is?
I spoke to a local dealer about this new coolant, unfortunately I didn't ask exactly what the chemical makeup of it was - but I did learn than it can be used in older cars but that a complete flushing is recommended (no drain and fill - confirming that it should not be mixed with other coolants). Regular Subaru coolant is priced at around $18/gal, new stuff is $22/gal.
The 10 year interval will be nice - going to have my 05 OBW XT done with it.
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well is the part i replaced that vsss part, its the elctro/mechanical piece, didnt change anything, does stabalize above 30????????
So you replaced the unit on the transmission with a *new* part - right? Not a used one pulled from another vehicle in a junkyard or otherwise? It may be defective anyway. Might want to try another unit to see if the symptom changes. If you search the archives, I think I remember reading someone suggesting a way to test the signal voltage output of the device by mounting it in a varible speed drill and watching if the output signal changes linearly on volt/ohm meter with the speed of the drill. But I never tried this.
To make sure we are all talking about the same sensor - here is simple description of the 2 VSS components: http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl833h.htm.
There is also previous message threads with pictures if you do a search: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=65752&page=3&highlight=vehicle+speed+sensor
There is actually a 3rd VSS component which is the VSS buffer circuit located in the head unit (or gauge cluster) which takes the signal given to it from the sensor on the transmission to the ECU. As the article decribes, problems with the speedometer are either with the VSS-2 sensor (most likely) or with the circuit in the guages (most unlikely).
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Does the needle bounce at the lower speeds and then act normally when cruising at 30mph or above? If so, more likely the problem is at the VSS on the transmission than the VSS circuit in the instrutmentaion cluster. Did you replace either one with new or used parts?
The VSS electro/mechanical on the tranmission has a common failure rate of between 90K and 140K miles - usually surcombs to the heat from the tranny and first symtoms show bouncing of the needle when first starting out and at low speeds. Symtoms may vary from a cold to a warmed up transmission. On my 96 OBW, the originally started failing at around 96K, replaced new, and now again at 235K -planning to replace soon. Dealer techs I've spoken to confirm it's common component to fail.
From what I know about the VSS circuit in the head unit (gauges) when it fails, it fails completely - no speedo needle movement at all.
Hope that helps.
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To all the above I might also suggest checking the parking brake - have you used it recently, and not normally use it? - sometimes when used infrequently rust/crud can cause the mechanism to become sticky.
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To all the above I might also suggest checking the parking brake - have you used it recently, and not normally use it - sometimes when used infrequently rust/crud can cause the mechanism to become sticky.
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Too bad Subaru didn't come up with such an engine several years ago.
Sube's with the new diesel engine are expected to come to the States in 2 to 3 years; by then, fuel prices here will likely be $6-$8 per gallon...possibly even higher:eek: , the economy in the toilet (stagflation with a vengeance)) with high unemployment, very high price inflation with the cost of food going through the roof, and, due to the dollar's collapse, especially in relation to the Yen by then, the cost of a Sube with a diesel will be prohibitive. Diesel engines are generally a few thousand more than gas engines anyway, no?
Most folks will have far more pressing concerns than spending their dwindling resources on a new car.
Ah well, let's drink to the good times....rapidly disappearing and which we'll never again see, at least in most of our lifetimes, sigh...
Subaru might have to revisit the past...
http://www.subarudrive.com/Sum06_attic2.htm
http://www.subarudrive.com/Sum06_attic3.htm
I might add that if the US/World economy should tank, the older, less complicated technological designs will be more maintainable (assuming parts can still be found or built).
stereo question - aux in
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
Just assuming for example, you're in rush hour traffic, cars are fairly tight and moving along slowing, and someone next to you decides to "scan" their FM dial...
Wasn't sure of this product's capability. There are the home products that let you send FM signals throughout the home - having transmitting ability of 30ft or so (Ithink). I was wonder if this was the same type of principle...but it looks like from the response this is not the case.