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PAezb

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Posts posted by PAezb

  1. Hey there, new to the forum but looking for some advice. Dealer says that my catalytic conveter needs to be replaced ('03 OBW w/ 105,000 miles) the increased RPM's and lack of power along with decreased fuel efficiency seem to confirm this. What I'm wandering is, is this something I can fix myself? I've done some work on cars in the past, but not on this particular one. I met a guy today who told me that this really was a piece of cake since it's just a bolt on. He suggested buying a grinder to get the bolts off and then just putting it in myself. Any suggestions or ideas on this? Thanks

     

     

    Try replacing the O2 sensor first - cheaper than replacing the whole CAT which comes with a new O2 anyway. The CATs should last much longer than 105K.

     

    Symptom description would help with diagnostic opinions here though...

  2. There were a couple of threads in the last few months regarding running various electronics off the 12v cigarette lighter. For those who might be interested and have similar needs, I recently purchased off of ebay a *high-power universal* 120w DC to DC adaptor (hard to find locally, most are only 70w or 90w capable), to handle my laptop which requires 19vdc @ 6 amps, or, ~ 120watts. This is a voltage selectable adaptor.

     

    So far it is working as advertised, and much more power efficient than running a DC to AC power converter and using the laptop's AC power brick. The price is very decent and comes with the most common power jack connectors. The only downside is that it is made in China (like everything else) so long term reliability is an unknown, but it seems to be pretty solid. I'm sure the seller has more in stock as he runs a brick and mortar camera/video store in Florida, and if you search eBay you'll find several other items that are 120w capable.

     

    Just an FYI

     

    http://cgi.ebay.com/Auto-Car-DC-Adapter-for-IBM-Laptop-15-24v-120w_W0QQitemZ300161524692QQihZ020QQcategoryZ60252QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

     

    Another similar item with even better pricing:

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290127205717&ssPageName=MERCOSI_VI_ROSI_PR4_PCN_BIX_Stores&refitem=300161524692&itemcount=4&refwidgetloc=closed_view_item&refwidgettype=osi_widget

  3. Any ideas on where to get contacts? Wow! dealer wants $17. May have to bend over. Not that it's a pile of money; were talking principal here. jon

     

    :grin: Yep, when you walk to the parts counter at a dealership, just assume the position...:grin:

     

    $17!!, I think that's cheaper than what the Toyota Dealership wanted for contacts on the Camry.

     

    Depending on what your time is worth, check online directories or the hard copy yellow pages for your area. I was lucky to find a business locally that specialized in rebuilt starters, alternators, a one or two other components - just a walk in warehouse basically. Got contacts for the Camry for less than $3, that was a few years ago, so I'd expect to pay more today. If your interested I'll try to get their info to you, I don't know if they would mail/ship an item that small though, even if they had the ones you need. And if they did they probably send it UPS/FedEx for $6/7.:rolleyes:

  4. As Nipper and OB99W have already commented, do check the condition of the battery and cables. I had a battery with hairline crack at the base of one of the terminals that leaked very slowly with evaporation that was not noticable, unless you had been really looking for it. Over time, even with proper level of water replacement to the cells, the battery just became weak with the loss of the electrolytic.

     

    The starter contacts are the more common problem to "clicking". A couple of copper tabs worth $2 to $3 can be had at a good parts shop, and your time to pull the starter, open it up, replace contacts, and reinstall. Did my Mom's 91 Camry awhile back - very easy job. I did have to call around to find a shop that carried the contacts I needed ( the dealer wanted some ridiculous price).

  5. Nipper, from the front, it's

     

     

    back

    2 4

    1 3

    Front

     

    I'm pretty sure it's that way because 4 is near the driver and it gets lean all the time....

     

     

    That's what I thought, but I found this Endwrench .pdf, which if you refer to page 14, the description on installation of the camshaft sprockets and cam belt idler pulleys, working from the front, agrees with Nipper's original designation...

     

    http://68.178.49.203/jon/EJ22-Overhaul.pdf

     

    :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

  6. Now if I can just figure out how to reduce the pictures they may help somebody.

     

    It would certainly help me, I can give you a email in a PM to send them to me if you're willing to do it.

     

    In preparing to replace the axle(s) on my 96 OBW, a question I have is how likely is the possiblity the splines in the hub will be shot, and that I'll have to replace the hub or bearing itself? What other parts should I be prepared to replace when doing this job?

     

    The car has 225K

  7. OUCH! That's expensive! I'm not sure which aspect of the product you're interested in, but there's a product that I expect is similar in intent that's reasonably local to you (at least it's a midwest/plains states product) from RenewableLube(.com) that I know from experience and analysis is not harmful. I can't claim much in terms of mpg except that when using the product my mpg does not drop in either car when running gasohol vs. regular gasoline. It's also a whole bunch less expensive.

     

    If you do try the CA-40, let us know how it works for you!

     

    If you were to see a conservative improvement of 5% to 10% on a ~$1.20 per oz on a 16gallon tank (that's on the 1quart purchase), you'd basically see a $3.5 to $7 savings per tankfull at current gas prices. But then there's the added hassle of measuring the additive each time your at the pump. CMH should put a pre-measure 1/2 to 1oz reservior on the top of the bottle (and a long dispensing funnel extension) similar to what other products like Stabil and 2cycle engine oils have.

    Being the smallest purchase is 1qt, I've emailed a friend to review the product to see if he would be interested in splitting the quart for trail purposes (He has a Tahoe and probably has a better chance of benefitting, if at all). Would lessen the $ bite a bit, although the company claims a refund if you're not happy with the product.

     

    We'll see, I have to do some more research on this...but if I do it, I definitely report back.

  8. I got those same hours quoted - was told "that's the book rate" - and people wonder why they call it the stealership.... I supplied the axles, but had the work done while my 97 OB was up on a lift. It took the guys 45min to do BOTH front axles. 1.5hrs per side??? They must give a 10-yr old 3 spoons and a wood block and then time how long it takes them to do the job.

     

    Well, I've learned over the years the dealerships too often take unfair advantage of their customers in service repair and over the counter parts. When I did my front brake job I needed a reseal kit for the calipers. Morries of Mtka wanted $39 for it, ended up ordering it from Jason in Auburn for $19 plus $6.95 shipping. Not a big price difference to me really, and I had to wait a couple of day for shipping, but it pissed me off enough that the local dealer would charge twice as much for the same part that I just wanted to take my business elsewhere.

     

    A couple of years ago, I was at Morries again, then talking to the service manager about a warranty issue on my 05'. I overheard one of the service reps talking to a lady about her early 2000 Outback, telling her from the code(s) that were pulled they would need to replace the catalytics, at the bargain basement price of $1,500!! I followed her out to the parking lot to stopped her and explained that often it's just the O2 sensor(s) that throw those codes, and she should have the service department try changing just the forward O2 first to see if that took care of the matter, they could always put the cats on later if needed, but new O2s come with them anyway, so she would have nothing to lose except a big service bill. She thanked me and went back in to talk to service guy again. I don't know what the outcome was but am betting (hoping) she save over $1000 for new cats she never needed. I'll never know. My point though is these shops only want to do whats easiest for them and will pull in the most profit.

     

    The same senario happened with my sister with her 96 Legacy but at an Independent in Jersey. Saved her $1,200 and solved the problem, all due to what I learned on this forum about catalytics, O2s, and the codes. And of course I have replaced the O2 sensor on my 96 OBW, 12 years and 225K on her with the same Cats.

     

    So I guess I should take this opportunity to thank all you others here for sharing your expertise. This forum has been a goldmine of information, and savings to me.

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