PAezb
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Posts posted by PAezb
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Umm... they make tuning stuff for the LGT and OBXT, you don't have to use wrx stuff, because not everything is the same, especailly the ECUs'
I have an Accessport (cobb) for my OBXT, pushed it up to ~ 295hp @ 305ft-lbs, with all stock exhaust & TMIC. So, i'm at 'stage1' you can push it up to stage 2 by throwing a new up & dwn pipe in there, on the stock turbo, i think the high octane stage2 fuel mapps will put you at like... 305hp? i can took up the figures if you're really interested.
If you're just planning on swaping the maps once, and leaving it, it's really not worth going for the accessport v2.0, it's the same thing as v1.0, just alot faster.. but if you're not swapping maps all the time, it doesn't really matter.
and yes, there is a HUGE difference between the stock config & the tuned ones...
What was the effect on your gas mileage, and have you tried the leanest fuel mapping also? This is for 91 Octane, right?
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I plan to get a Cobb AccessPort someday when the funds allow. I would like to hear from anyone that has experience with one:
and/or impressions on the performance selections (3 fuel/shift mappings) available on the 07/08 Turbo models....
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I plan to get a Cobb AccessPort someday when the funds allow. I would like to hear from anyone that has experience with one:
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Please explain how the lack of power caused a mechanical failure in the speaker... :-\
If that was the case he would damage his speakers everytime he turned down his radio even with the amp (very little power). I still say its because clipping the signal generates much higher average power. If he didn't crank his head unit so high the speakers would never have blown. He doesn't have to use such a high setting on the radio with the amp because he can adjust the gains to satisfactory volume at lower volume settings (where it doesn't clip the signal in the radio).
You're basically right on you statement of clipping producing a high level of "distorted" signal power, but wrong that gain controls on an amplifier can prevent clipping. They are use to balance volume levels between multi-amp configurations. It's not practical to try to use them to prevent clipping because signal input levels sources can vary in strength, you'll never find a happy medium while trying to protect the amp from clipping with the strongest input signal because a low "soft" signal won't be properly amplified to be heard. That's a crude explanation and there's more to it than that, but that's the gist of it. Search the web on "amplifier clipping" and "amplifier gain controls" and you'll find lot of articles on the subject (although some may be incorrect also).
That's why if you like to listing to loud music frequently, it best to overkill on the amplifier's power output capability (and/or headroom) in respect to what the speaker is rated to handle.
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So, PAezb, as a former a/d/s, Nakamichi, etc. fan, what speakers sound good to your ears these days? I always thought a/d/s speakers were terrific, but haven't messed with a stock system in a decade. However, I'm tired of our Mazda's inability to produce frequencies below ~500Hz at an audible level and the Baja is OK but you just can't turn it up loud enough to hear "properly."
{end thread hijack}
Ha! it's been a few years for me too since I've done any serious auditioning of car audio. Getting older has a lot to do with it - interests and priorities change you know. The a/d/s 320i is legendary now. I actually spent a couple hours each day over two weeks demoing the speakers in Audio King's sound room (remember them? now Ultimate Electronics). This was for my Grand Am project (alright no boos please, it was before I became a Subaru convert, and I have't looked back:-p ). It came down to the a/d/s and Nakamichi with a/d/s winning out as it had a bit more punch in the lows and had excellent detail and balance, and could be driven very loudly past their power handling limits, while not distorting or being destroyed by excessive (clean) power. The Nakamichi's I recall had a slighty sweeter high end in their favor. The Canton's, which I had limited exposure with but I definitely liked, had a slightly warmer sound to them, and were quite pricey at the time (probably still are). All three lines, handled rock, jazz, classical, etc equally well.
I really don't know how those lines today compare (it's been 20 years) to everything else thats out on the market nowadays. If you don't want to spend the time and money on a custom install with higher end components, I think I remember reading post's here in the archives of a couple of people with mid to late nineties MY Subarus simply upgrading the stock speakers with some moderately priced Pioneers and claimed it made a huge difference. You might want to consider adding an external amp to your stock radio if it supports pre-amp outputs. Again, I'd recommend to anyone looking to upgrade to give Crutchfield's a call, their phone techs always seemed pretty knowledgeable and can offer some good options with today's products for any vehicle - a good starting reference.
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I agree,
I often ran the full power of 120watt/channel amps (Carver M240s) to 50 watt max rated speakers (a/d/s 320i and 300i) without a problem. You have to be much more careful on the stock radio's 10-20watt/channel due to clipping (tops of the sine waves become flat lines or DC, and is more prevalent and dangerous in higher frequencies)- straight DC kills tweeter's voice coils... well woofers too. It's akin to hooking the voice coil of the driver directly to the DC power supply of the amp.
Now ask me how my hearing is.....:-p
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I recently bought some Infinity reference speakers and they really didn't fit well in the front door. I ended up mounting them in the box for my Sub in the trunk, and just putting my rear seat down when i want music. Just curious on what some of you are using or what ideas you have...
I did some high-end installs as a side many, many years ago. Back then (80s) some of the best sounding car speakers, IMHO, were those from ADS, Canton, and Nakamichi, and some from the Fujitsu Ten Eclipse line. Some of these required modifications and baffling reinforcement of the door panels and making custom boxes for the rears. Nowadays, there are so many different brands and lines out there it's mind boggling. If your looking for ideas I'd start with what Crutchfield offers and recommends for OEM fit and higher-end sound quality. As ericem pointed out, you should be able to buy frame spacers if the Infinity's are too deep.
I've not messed with either of my Subie's stock systems as I tend to listen to mostly talk radio now-a-days:rolleyes: and wouldn't benefit from it - (a shame)
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well I wanted to throw an amp and sub in.
My 05 OBW XT has the factory sub/amp under the driver seat, so I would assume there is a sub pre-amp output connector from the head unit that you can use/tap into. I've not looked at it close enough to determine how easy it would be to do, but do continue your asking around I'm sure you find what you need.
I might suggest giving Crutchfield a call and talking with one of their tech specialist about adding a aftermarket subwoofer/amp to the factory radio. They would most likely have the answers you need.
Also here is some additional references that may help:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=787621&highlight=H6300ss600
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All the advice on here is to use OEM for the upstream sensor and other assorted things. I've failed to see any reasoning why a different quality sensor (or plugs, or whatever) wouldn't work, so I'm not sure if there's anything to those opinions or if it's just one of those beliefs that stick on internet forums. (No offense to anyone!
)I've had no issues using aftermarket. In fact, it's lasted longer (132K) than the OEM did (90K).
Some will tout the tight tolerances of the OEM parts needed for peak performance. I don't believe it, and my experience has proven so. But, with the online Subaru parts dealers prices, the OEM are just a few dollars more than the aftermarket if you want that OEM warm and fuzzy factor
. By the way most aftermarkets are Bosch, Denso, or Walker - I believe Subaru uses mostly (maybe all) Denso as their OEM. -
1stsubaruparts.com has em for $93.56 plus shipping ($7 to $10 typically) for the OEM, that should be your benchmark, and the concensus here seems to be to stay with OEM for O2 sensors, not aftermarket. You can always ask a local dealer to match price with an Subaru Internet store (some will, some wont).
The number of wires usually indicates how the sensor is grounded electrically. Some aftermarkets have no connector on the end so you need to "splice" the O2 wires to the car's wire harness. Buy the OEM and you'll know you have an O2 with the connector that plugs right in.
Item Number MSRP Core Price Price
22690AA190 $129.95 $0.00 $93.56
Exhaust system - Exhaust components - Oxygen sensor
Oxygen sensor - 1.8 liter 1993 - 1995
Another reference: http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=2357
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Lots of parts stores will read the codes for free. If you'd rather have the tool to do it yourself they're not that expensive. I picked one up at Harbor Freight for $40.
I was looking at these: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94169
If I may ask, what's you assessment on it's quality?
8/8/07
Thought I'd drop this link in here too, another Cen-Tech ODB-II code reader that supports text display and a few others not in the smaller unit. Cheapest price I've seen for any text capable reader:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94217
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Getting the codes would help narrow down the issue before speculating on the cause and throwing money on parts hoping to solve the problem. If you don't have or want to spend the money for OBDII scanner, some auto stores like AutoZone will/use to scan the codes for free. There often will be a code stored, most likely, even after the CEL has disappeared.
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On my 97 Legacy wagon, one of the brake caliper pins has a rubber tip on the end, the other one is just a metal pin which one is the guide pin and which one is the lock pin? and which one goes on the bottom and which one goes on top.
Just happened to have a copy of the Hayne's manual for the Legacy checked out from the library - scanned the page with the exploded view. If this isn't clear let us know....
Opps. Had to delete some of my other attachments before this one took - here it is. Yes, the Caliper Guide pin goes on top (its a the pin thats fixed to the caliper support bracket and slides into the caliper body sleeve with the metal cap and the rubber pressure/bleeder tip). Lock pin on the bottom.
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Wasn't MY96 and maybe 97 the only years the 2.5 had DOHCs? I thought one of the main reasons for gaining more HP in the following years, the Phase II SOHC was going to a single cam.
On the piston slap, remember that *sometimes* it could be from a noisy tension belt idler.
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If you have occassional pinging from mid-grade fuel, you may want to consider removing the possible carbon build-up in your engine. Seafoam (heavily discussed here) BG 44K and other internal engine cleaning products may help reduce the need for premium. I use 87 octane in Denver driving up into the mountains (Vail Pass at 10,000 ft , Eisenhower Tunnel at the Continental Divide) and no hint of pinging ever.
I've used Seafoam periodically, though not lately - big thumbs up on the product.
I've also experimented with adding acetone to the fuel, which seems to make the engine run noticably smoother, especially in park/idle. The engine is due for some other tune-up items so Seafoam has been put on the to-do list again.
Thanks.
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That's the kind of info I'm looking for, I figured as much. Our MY01 Outback knocks occasionally on the recomended regular octane.
If anyone else has some real time experience with this engine and regular fuel I'd like to hear about it before I go looking at the car.
Thanks!
Remember to ask if the head gaskets have ever been replaced. While I like this engine, it has bitten quite a few people, myself included, in the pocketbook for HG replacement.
Just don't want you to have expectations of saving nickles and dimes on the fuel and then having to "pony up" for a *possible* $1000+ HG job.
But that's a whole nother issue....
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I think it was in the owners manual and http://www.cars101.com/outback_archive95-97.html#1996%20Outback
There was a change in the heads, I belive, for that year which increased the compression. Then it was revised again for the next year's 2.5
Again, it was a "recommendation" from SOA.
So I really wonder what, if any, issues would occur if regular was used.
96 OBW w/DOHC 2.5 phase 1 engine. Owner's manual recommends 91 Octane, but 87 can be used. In the almost 12 years and 222K miles on this car I have tried all types of octane and brand fuels. It basically runs fine on 87, the octane I used in the majority of it's life. It may ping once in awhile under load (going up a hill, fully loaded, etc). 91 Octane takes care of that, and we have several stations here the sell all the mid-grade and premium fuels for the same prices as regular. The happy medium for me lately, and the OBW, is mid-grade, 89 or 90 octane.
But no big issues in using 87, at least not so far. BTW, gas mileage seems unaffected between the different octanes, at least any measurable differences by standard observations.
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You should be seeing them now at most local auto parts stores - don't have to pay for shipping.
Still waiting for a dedicated 2005+ maunual for the turbos....
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Here's the story:
2001 Forester. 100K miles or so.
P0240 code. Still in warranty, used car dealer replaces cat. Code gone.
At some point, I replaced the front O2 sensor, (with NAPA / Bosch) I don't rember what code led me there.
Time passes.
P0420 again.
Replace the rear O2 sensor. (with NAPA / Bosch) A couple of early re triggers of P0420, but it stays gone after a few trips.
2 year emmissions test due now, so what happens??
Now I am getting the P0420 code again!
(I have a scanner, cleared the codes to verify not just a fluke, etc.)
Any ideas?
If were solely up to me, I'd sell the Forester and get another EA82!
Engine coolant temperture and/or MAF sensor(s)?
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Possibly. Or maybe one of the other sensors like the MAF, engine coolant sensor, etc. But the P0420 indicates from the O2/CAT area, but any one or combination of the 3 sensors listed above are major suspects that can throw that code.
http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/generic/p0420-catalyst-efficiency-below-threshold-bank-1.php
I'm sure some others will chime in here soon who had the same symptoms with their Subies.
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That's a good point. I could just replace the 02 sensors first.
I have gotten the p0420 in the past but ironically it's not showing a code right now.
Don't worry about the rear O2, just the forward one. That's the one the ECU relies on to make fuel/air adjustments.
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I believe the CATs come with new O2 sensors (at least I think Subaru OEMs do) so you have nothing to lose by replacing the O2 sensor itself ($60 to $70 part versus $500-$600 for a CAT replacement). They are fairly easy to replace too. I seen several instances (including my sister with a 96 Legacy) where they were told they needed a new CAT (do to a CEL) and the problem was resolved by replacing the forward O2 sensor.
Do you have any CEL codes?
Just want to make sure you don't start spending big bucks when it *may* be a lesser problem. Subaru CATs usually last a long, long time.
Anyone turned up a Turbo 2.5 yet?
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
Ok, now you've got me drooling....
I'm also wondering what considerations long term one has to take into account, if any, for boosting power in that manner. Any suggested regular maintenance interval changes go along with it?
You know, you could go in to business charging a *nominal* fee for "upgrading" the fuel maps for other owner's vehicles
..... I suppose there is a licensing issue though.
Any plans to come and visit Minnesota?
;) 
- were kinda like relatives you know, owning the same type of vehicle and all .... :-p
Thanks for sharing your experience on this.