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I dont know, but aftermarket probably not much cheaper than purchasing OEM from a Subaru Internet discounter like 1stsubarupart.com, subarupartforyou.com, or Jason at Mike Scarff Subaru in Auburn, WA (1-866-528-5282) Are you sure you need a new CAT, and not just an O2 sensor (forward O2 sensor in most cases)?

Thanks. I had an inkling that's all it was. Never heard it before on this car, and with it getting up in years and miles, wanted to make sure it wasn't something that was beginning to fail.

Ok, this is on a 96 OBW 2.5EJ with auto tranny. Notice the other night, with the engine off, but in gear, and the with ignition key to accessory (instrumentation gauges lit) a strange buzzing sound coming from underneath the car, somewhere around the tranny. At first I thought it may be coming from one of the O2 sensors, but the buzzing still there when I disconnected them. The buzzing stops if I put the tranny into Park or Neutral, but buzzes in drive, 1st, 2nd, 3rd. C-Selanoid? Fuel Pump? Anyone know what this it, and if it is something I need to look into further? It's probably normal, I just never noticed it before...

Agreed, surge brakes are problematic at best (from what I've been told).

To use *electric* trailer brakes, you will need to install a brake controller, minimum of 12 gauge wire running from the battery (with an auto reset 30amp circuit breaker) to the rear, and an RV style trailer connector. This is in addition to your trailer light converter if one is not already installed. $150 in parts and a half-a-day to install. "Surge" style trailer brakes are a different matter and don't require a brake controller inside the vehicle. Brake controllers: http://www.etrailer.com/c-BC.htm (I use the Tekonsha Prodigy and highly recommend it) 7/4 wiring kit includes connector, wiring, circuit breaker, and hardware : http://www.etrailer.com/p-ETBC7.htm (I installed this kit, also highly recommended) or a 6/4 connector depending on the style your trailer uses: http://www.etrailer.com/pc-BC~ETBC6.htm Additional info: http://www.etrailer.com/faq/brakecontrol.asp and http://www.redtrailers.com/ShowArticle.asp?id=2 and finally http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=53745&highlight=tekonsha

At least no recall on brake components *yet*, just tires, along with everything else: http://www.worldnetdaily.com/news/article.asp?ARTICLE_ID=56533 Additional regarding Chinese imports... http://www.ft.com/cms/s/e628b512-2b20-11dc-85f9-000b5df10621.html http://english.pravda.ru/business/companies/04-07-2007/94506-chery_us_auto_market-0

I do agree with you whole heartedly on your above statements regarding China. At least here in Minnesota we started to do something about Chinese imports: http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/news/world/us_and_americas/article2028740.ece

Raybestos, yes they're made in China, but I've had good results with them so far along with the Raybestos PG Plus Semi-Met. Pads... http://www.partsamerica.com/productdetail.aspx?MfrCode=RAY&MfrPartNumber=96658RGS&PartType=221&PTSet=A (need to enter any zipcode for the product page to display) (ducking back in my fox hole now:-p )

What was the purpose of the grounding mod? Be sure you have no shorts. If you have the alternator tested, have them test the specific gravity of the battery also - it's potency may not be what it should. Check for any small cracks on the battery casing that may be leaking acid, especially around the terminals. Have you tried putting a smart charger on the battery to determine whether it is fully charged? Many chargers can also perform basic charging diagnostics with the engine running - invest in one of you don't have one already - around $50 for a decent one. As for the ABS, it may or may not be a symptom of a problem with the electrical on the vehicle. Sounds like you have some separate maintenance issues to deal with on the brakes anyway. Might want to check the ABS and it's relay to be sure it's not maintaining a closed circuit (always drawing power)

See heading numbers 6 and 7 at this link: http://www.repairfaq.org/ELE/F_Car_Battery.html#CARBATTERY_006 As you increase the electrical load on the battery and charging circuit, voltage will drop somewhat, especially at idle. Your numbers are within norms. An ABS or Battery light along with dimming lights could be a sign of an issue with the charging system. Make sure your battery terminals are clean (a little steel wool cleaning followed with a thin film of dielectric grease or vasoline) and cables and their clamps are in good condition. Typical rating for most Subaru alternators is around 70 amps. Some rebuilts can be hit or miss for 100% power load delivery (all diodes working). Where did you buy the alternator? Did your hesitation issue start with the alternator replacement?

Yep, I remember that recall, and it is VIN# specific, so you need to check with a llocal dealer or SOA. BTW, I called SOA about the AirBag system, and of course they recommend it should be inspected every 10 years. The local dealers here want $75 just to write up a service order when you drive in. I'm not sure I want to justify spending a lot of money on inspection on a 12yr old car where I do most, if not *all* of the maintenance on it now-a-days.

The car in video is not a Subaru (thank god). You need to watch the video to see what happened... heh heh.... (comments suggest it is from an Ikea commercial) But thanks for the heads-up on the recall, makes this thread more relevant now :-p

Ok, so as to make this thread Subaru relevant, I was discussion with friends my recent brake job I completed on my 96 OBW. I commented that for the age of the car I probably should have the airbag system checked sometime soon. One of my friends mentions this video on YouTube - just hilarious!! So, for those of you who have not yet seen this: I just hope the Subaru impact sensors aren't as sensitive. Of course, people who drive Subaru's would never harass little old ladies sleeping at, err, trying to cross the intersection

You might find a lot more commentary on the Tribeca on the dedicated forums over on Edmunds.... http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/ed_displayMakeModelRelatedDiscussions!make=Subaru&model=B9%20Tribeca

I don't think much has changed in the last couple of year, except for some styling changes which it has taken some bashing for. It's still the same vehicle underneath and it's decent overall if that is what you want: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=36567&highlight=tribeca http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66015&highlight=tribeca http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51310&highlight=tribeca BTW, somewhere on the web I read some rumors that Subaru will be coming out with a mini-van, anyone else heard or read anything? It was news to me.

Well the driver side is in rough shape inside is rough and glazed (frozen slide pin) and the outside is scored too from metal on metal from no pad left (Yes I neglected them). I can purchase Raybestos GS rotors new for $17/ea for the cost of turning the old rotors. Yes, their cheap, made in China, but I've had good luck with the fronts. I haven't checked on what the local shops want for turning rotors these days...

Need Advice and opinions. I'm currently redoing the rear brakes on a 96 OBW with ~216K, with the main purpose of replacing the pads and the rotors only (cheaply). Upon inspection of the whole rear assembly, all appears to be in good shape with the exception of the 3/4 moon dust shields that encompass the rotors have rusted bad enough that there are fairly large gaps you can see through. These shields appear to have been welded on to the back mounting plate that the calipers bolt onto, so it does'nt appear that a stock replacment would be available unless I were to replace the whole back plate (which appears to be in good shape and would be a lot of extra work). Question: Should I just "rip" them off now knowing that eventually they'll dissentigrate anyway (any concerns with having no dust shield at all)? Anyone know of an aftermarket kit that would basically use the holes that the calipers bolt onto to hold a new shield in place? Update: Just spoke to Jason at Mike Scharf Subaru in Washington, new back plates with the welded on dust shields would be $90+ each. I'm sure a could find some in good condition at a salvage yard for a small fraction of that, but wondering if it's worth the bother....

I don't know about "resistor" plugs, but I've always heard not to change between resistance/non-resistance wires in a vehicle. An article that supports this: http://www.inct.net/~autotips/plugwire.htm I'm on the third set of spark plugs (still original wires) on my 96' OBW with 217K. The second set I had was the Bosch Platinum +4, 1st and 3rd are NGK OEMs. Seem to run fine on the Bosch for me (no noticable difference), but both professional mechanics and and other board members here have stated consistantly to stay with the plugs the ignition system was designed for, especially on Subarus. I'd at least stay with the same brand plugs (i.e. NGK). If the NGK people say no difference on performance with resistor plugs, well they should know. Any difference in performance between your vehicle and your Dad's could be attributed to many factors; minor engineering changes between the MYs, type brand fuel, condition of other components of the engine management system; wires, sensors, filters, vacuum hoses, etc.

My 96 OBW has 217K with original wires - and it's been running amazingly well and averaging 25mpg around town. I'm very tempted to go ahead and replace the wires knowing full well they're on borrowed time. But I hate to disturb anything that may do nothing or even degrade performance she's running at now. In otherwords, if it ain't broke, don' fix it.....

Thanks for the info. I'm looking for some items for the 96' OBW. I pass through Big Lake once in awhile when I need to drive up to St. Cloud, so I'll look for it.

Sounds like to me that the one or both of the caliper slides are sticking. Also check the condition of the brake shoes -if there is a lot of corrosion on the areas where the pads touch, they may have never been seated properly and allowed to wear evenly. Do the pistons compress smoothly back into cylinders with no leakage visable? Reseal kit: 26297AA021 Outback 1996 Brakes Front Calipers Hydraulic System - Overhaul Seal Kit for Front Caliper "15 Brakes - includes all rubber boots for slides and pistons - grease included I just did my front brakes 2K ago and ordered this kit from Jason of Mike Scharf Subaru (not sure of the last name, but was formally Auburn Subaru) in Washington state. I believe this kit is used in several late 90's MY of Outback and standard Legacy. Try 1stsubaruparts.com, subarupartsforyou.com or give Jason a call - 1-866-528-5282. All shoud be competitive and should run about $20 for the kit. I'll make a little plug here too for PB Blaster - great stuff for sticking calipers and any rusted parts....

If the engine is an H6 or a Turbo, stay with 91+ Octane. The normal 2.5 aspirated H4 can run on 87 octane. If it pings under load, or if you'll being towing on long trips, bump the octane up a couple of points for best performance. A note on gas prices: Here in the Twin Cities, we do have a couple of stations that sell all octanes at the same price (with the price being about the same as what other stations are selling 87 octane for "usually"). I just paid $3.09/gal (http://www.twincitiesgasprices.com/index.aspx?fuel=C ) for premium on 3/24 at a station that I take my Outback XT. It's 10 miles from where I live though, 20 miles round trip, so I plan other errands accordingly to make it worth it. A resource for your area: http://www.lansinggasprices.com/

Lower half of the 2-tone Outbacks is painted, as are the bumpers. Any trim pieces that are black in color are the natural plastic coloring and are not painted (on base models these may include door trim guard molding, side mirror body, door handles etc...). The only exception that I know of would be any pin-stripe (tape) like that used on the 96-99 MY.

http://www.1stsubaruparts.com Subaru OEM part 22060AA061 $69.84 Electrical - Powertrain control - Knock sensor Knock sensor, legacy, 2.5l 1997 - 1999

How many miles on the vehicle? How are you at doing your own work? Replacing the basic components like brake pads, rotors, (outer) brake lines is fairly easy and the parts should run you no more that $100/axle. I admit I'm not sure what's involved with replacing the main brake line(s) that your mechanic suggests is needed. Get a second opinion. And a good independent shop, if you can find one, will usually have much better labor/part rates. http://www.partsamerica.com for after-market brand parts. (I've had good luck with Raybestos rotors and pads for my 96 OBW ~$35 for a set of PG Plus semi-metallic pads, and the GS rotors will run ~$23/ea. A rebuilt kit will run $20 per axle (Subaru's kit - complete set of rubber seals for the sliders and pistons, clips, and grease). or if you want to stay with Subaru OEM parts - there are many good online Subaru parts discounters Why do the calipers need replacing? It is common to have one or more frozen caliper slides, and some Subaru dealers would rather just replace the caliper instead of using a little solvent ( like PB Blaster), some patience, and some persuasion. Are the caliper pistons in bad shape? Have you pulled the codes for the CEL. A CAT problem could simply be that the O2 sensor needs to be replaced, an ~$80 part. Other things to start with that are fairly inexpensive and can be changed by yourself, fuel and air filters, PCV valve, temp sensor, plugs, wiring ,etc. Bottom line get the specifics of what *all* is needed, then price out the parts yourself and you may find it wont be that bad, even if you paid someone to do all the labor.