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Installation will typically take 30-60 minutes, depending on the brand hitch. Installation is farily simple but a second set of hands to help lift and hold the hitch in place would help. See attached .pdf file for reference (from http://www.etrailer.com) I'm pretty certain you will need to hardwire the trailer plug, that seems to be the indication on etrailer.com, unfortunately they don't list instructions on splicing in the wiring. If your owner's manual has no info on this, see if a local subaru dealer would be willing to make a copy of the instructions for you - (ask nicely ) Or maybe someone here on the board will chime in with instructions...

First, sorry to hear of your problem. I just wanted to address your cost on a 2.5L replacement engine. Have you considered going with a 2.5L short block replacement? They can be found online through Subaru internet discounters for under $2000, depending on components included - https://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getLocator&siteid=213882&chapter=APL732&appSectionid=10&groupid=61675&make=32&model=Forester&year=1999&catalogid=1 http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=10808 Or are you thinking total remanufactured engine due to high miles....? Then CCR engines may be the ticket as mentioned earlier. How many total miles on the engine? Were the head gaskets ever replaced?

The brake circuit and ABS require a certain voltage level otherwise it trips the warning lamps. Not too bad a price on the alternator, though you could of given Jason a call (formerly of 1stSubaruparts.com) and got a Subaru rebuilt for around $70 + shipping + core exchange and 12mo/12K warranty - but you have the down time of waiting for it to arrive. Where we're all going to be saying "ouch" is at the gas pump, not to mention that replacement parts in general will become more expensive soon with the price of gas climbing...:-\ http://news.yahoo.com/photo/070510/480/e40d7495b8bf4846aaed7db81fd3db3b

Yep, alternator. ABS lamp also on? From personal experience, I'd stay away from Pep Boys....

Still pretty tame as to what you'll find in some GM/Ford/Honda/Toyota poducts. There's even a 200amp altenator for the Ford Focus (an option for the upscale performance package of the Focus I assume).

Searching some online auto parts, looks like 90 MY 2.2 rebuilts are mainly 70amps, and can be had between $70 and $90. Might what to research whether the 110/130 amp altenators used in the Legacy/Outback 2.5 2005+ MY might work.

How does the engine turnover when you use the ignition key instead of the remote?

We'll have to wait to see what the response is from the dealer/SOA as to what the "cause" of the problem is. If it is an abnormal condition that is not caused by those items outlined in the warranty: http://www.subaru.com/owners/warranty/index.jsp?year=2006 then I would think/hope that both the dealer and SOA would want to take care of this promptly. With such a new model year, why risk future sales with this customer and possibly many others if the word gets out...

Looks like the same product listed here: http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Browse/tf-Browse/s-10101/N-111+10201+600003419/c-10101 Although the description references "front", so I'm not sure if that means they are not suitable for the rear. They also have these: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MRG%2D1287&N=700+400330+4294925130+115&autoview=sku First 2 listed items from JCWhitney look interesting as I am also contemplating a slight rear lift on my Subaru. Also would like to hear from anyone who has done this before: (1) How difficult would it be to place the rubber donuts on the bottom side of the coil? (2) Rubber would eventually need to be replace? (3) I read tidbits on these, and the one complaint is that people eventually lose these - could a couple of small holes drilled thru the side and zip-ties slipped thru and around the coil work as a solution? (4) Using either of these options, will an alignment need to be done? Inquiring minds want to know...

Thanks for the replies, I give the website a try...

Anyone know of any links or available online OEM catalogs that will provide the Subaru OEM part# when doing a part lookup, (for any MY)? Thxs.

Another good site for anything Subaru: http://www.cars101.com/subaru_sitemap.html More pics of the 08 Outback: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/outback/outback2008photos.html and specs: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/outback/outback2008.html Note on some past requested wish-lists on the interior and performance now included in the 08 model: Radio is XM/Sirius Satellite ready with auxilary port and MP3 capable. XT and LLBean Limited now move the center info (outside temp,clock,mpg,avg mpg etc) to the drivers gauge cluster and controls put on the steering wheel, telescoping steering wheel and of course the SI-Drive - XT has VDC/VDT? standard, among the few subtle changes... I note curb weight on the XT is slightly up and power rating slightly down from previous model years (05 and 06 anyway) I kinda like the Deep Metalic Bronze... though all are nice looking inside and out. So, who on this board will be the first to own one?

While Subaru has had turbo'd engines for quite some time, I believe the the 2005 model year was the first offering of an Outback Turbo: 250@6000rpm, torque 250@3600rpm http://www.cars101.com/subaru/outback/outback2005.html Main Directory http://www.cars101.com/subaru_sitemap.html

Additional articles/photos on 2008 models Debuts: 2008 Tribeca http://autoshow.autos.msn.com/autoshow/NewYork2007/Article.aspx?cp-documentid=4652956 2008 Impreza http://autoshow.autos.msn.com/autoshow/NewYork2007/photogallery.aspx?cp-documentid=4652886 Photos 1-11 Impreza, 12-16 Tribeca (A white interior? - yikes, a keep-clean nightmare!) http://autoshow.autos.msn.com/autoshow/NewYork2007/photogallerypopup.aspx?cp-documentid=4652886&photo-number=1 2008 Outback (360 view) http://autoshow.autos.msn.com/autoshow/detroit2007/360viewpopup.aspx?cp-documentid=1725092&photo-number=28 2008 Legacy (360 View) http://autoshow.autos.msn.com/autoshow/detroit2007/360viewpopup.aspx?cp-documentid=1725092&photo-number=29

I'll let others comment on the mechanical/reliability issues. For mild humor, I'll offer the following caution regarding purchasing a turbo: You are human, and like the rest of us, have or will fall short to temptation in the eyes of the law - PA 2005 Outback XT w/40K

What I was told was the Turbo 2.5 are designed and built beefier to handle the higher compression/combustion stresses. So I wouldn't worry about it. Paul 06' OBW XT 38K

Start with checking the battery, it's terminal connections, and altenator charging system. Slightly low voltage can sometimes trigger the Brake and/or ABS indicators (have personally experienced this). If the Battery indicator is not lit as well, most likely ok but doesn't hurt to check anyway.

Sometime back I saw a commercial or infomercial about a product that supposedly chemically changes the rust into an enert black coating, then you paint over it or coat over it with whatever. Probably been around forever. Can anyone chime in if they are familiar with the product I'm talking about and is it worth it? I can't remember much about it right now. I'll have to web search latter.

Idle Pulley Tensioner? I've read here in past posts that these can often make noises, especially when cold, similar to "piston slap". Just a guess.

Appears you may have some issues with this specific dealership, as it is my experience that the various dealership service levels vary greatly. Have you asked (calmly) to speak to the regional service rep to plead your case? Also, if this is a continuing problem that has been ongoing when the vehicle was under warranty, you may want to contact your state's attorney general and find out what action/rights you have under lemon law or repairs that do not "stay repaired". Might want to consider another local dealer if possible. Subaru's have some issues just like any other vehicle out there (although electical issues is normally not one of them, unlike VW's). You just happen to be unlucky with dealing with an annoying electrical problem (details please, maybe people here can offer some practical advice/experience with your problem). Paul 96 Outback - 205K 05 Outback XT - 36K

I test drove a Tribeca over a year and a half ago, and came away with basically the same impressions - poor visability, under-powered, handling marginal and over-priced. On the positive, fit and finish were very good, roomy in the front seats. If I were not already Outback stricken (I own 2), I'd seriously look at the New Toyota RAV4 or the Mazda CX-7 (not sure if the CX-7 has AWD though)

I don't know if you looked at this thread for any of your answers, but it may help http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=7590 I had to replace the tranny mount VSS on my 96 OBW due to sporatic signal loss between 0 and 30mph. Above 30 it acted fine, but below 30 it "jumped around", changing the behavior of the engine and shift management. Definitely a varying voltage signaling device. The "drive" for the VSS on the 96 is a slotted bar that fits into it's female counterpart on the transmission - you will find photos in the link above. In other model years, have no idea what Subaru uses for VSS signaling and drive type. Other than that, you've presented a good description of the basic VSS system here...

I have a 350watt inverter used to run/recharge a toshiba laptop in the 96 OBW. I blew the bridge-wire on the back of the socket (front cigarette lighter) and repaired it with 60/40 solder (heavier gauge diameter than the original bridge-wire)and has been fine recently, although sometimes it wont charge while actually using the laptop, only when the laptop is turned off will it charge . My Toshiba is a power hog as laptops go. The powerpack or "brick" is rated at: input - 100V - 240V @ 1.8 amps output - 19V @6.3 amps Hope this gives you a reference.

If your main goal, as you state, is the improvement of MPG, my experience with synthetic (Mobil 1) in my 96 OBW (194K) is that I realize very little improvement in MPG over Dino. Given the cost of synthetic over dino, it's a loss from an economic standpoint - synthetic blend would be more of a wash or slighty ahead in this regards. The advantages are stable viscosity at temperture extremes (less wear at startups, epecially in northern winter months), and I judged the synthetic to look cleaner than dino at oil changes (5K intervals). An argument could be made that you can run on the synthetic longer between oil changes due to it's ability to reduce wear and suspend contaminants better. And yes, synthetics tend to leak more, especially if you have a lot of miles on the engine. Now, for my 96', given it's age and miles, I just put Wally World oil (SuperTech 10w-30) or the Fleet Farm brand (Resolute 10W -30) in her. For $5 - $6.50 for the 5 quarts containers, doing the oil changes at 5K with a fresh filter, the car has done just fine on dino. That said, I do run Mobil 1 in my 05 OBW. Adding to what 86subaru stated, I've done the "old school" method of adding a quart of transmission fluid to the crank case (making sure not to overfill) and running a couple of hundred miles before an oil change, and I think it does work well (normally once a year). Talking with older mechanics, they've said that years ago it was common to fille the crankcase up entirely with ATF, run the engine a short time, then dump and fill with regular oil. Now of course, there are many additives available to do the same thing. Consider using Seafoam in the crankcase - definitely a thumbs up here...