Gnuman

MWE? Link please!

I'll do you one better: I live near you. PM me and I'll give you a number to call to set up a meet.

OK, the rear rotor on an ej is both a rotor and a drum. the drum is small as it is only used for the e-brake, but it gets turned just the same as a regular drum. How to tell if you need to have it turned is "does it have a lip that makes it hard to put the drum/rotor back on over the shoes". Well, that and "does it have grooves in it?" but I'm guessing you knew that How I adjust mine: put everything back together including having the tire back on, and adjust the star wheel so the back wheel dosn't turn, then back off three clicks. do this on both sides. you should end up with no drag, and good e-brake action. You will need a tool (I have heard them called brake spoons and brake adjusters) that looks like a small pry-bar, but narrower. Get the one for imports as it is smaller than the one for domestic cars, and fits better. there is a rubber plug on the inside of the hub that gives you access to the star-wheel to do all of this.

Is there something loose in the cargo area? Other than that (meaning you are sure it is under the car) get thee to a dealership to have the loose item checked out. Your Subaru is way too new to have anything going klunk on it. You have not had time for anything to wear out. find out what is loose and have it fixed. The dealership should do this under warranty.

Now don't be grizzly. . . "Stalling action when turning" sounds to me like torque bind, but you should not be having that problem on a three year old car. . .

Because the fit is so tight, I generally use a 7/8 box wrench (unplug the wire and you can slide the box wrench down it and over the sensor). I also recomend OEM, and by that I mean genuine Subaru for this sensor. O2 sensors vasry widely in thier manufacture, and I have seen the "universal" ones simply not work on a Subaru, or be so marginal that they fail after a few weeks at best. There is only one bank of O2 sensors, and sensor 1 is the one threaded into the front of the cat, or perhaps on the pipe between that and the engine. Fairly easy to get to. Should be on the passenger side behind the engine in the engine bay.

Those tbolt clamps look real good to me. I'd be willing to pay the cash for them for my own car, but I would not recommend them to anyone that was not an absolute enthusiast. . .

OK, you have found the reason for the code 13. the rest are maintainance items anyway, so just replace those sensors. Luckily, the EJ22 was a non-interferance engine in 93 (and arguably the best engine Subaru ever built). Yeah, just replacing the timing belt and water pump will fix things for now, but for how long? Aside from the idlers already mentioned, i would also replace the engine seals (two cam seals, crank seal, two cam O-rings, one oil pimp O-ring, two valve cover gaskets, six valve cover bolt seals, the rear main seal is a matter of debate) and tighten the screws holding the backing plate on the oil pump as well. If you have a hoist, I would pull the engine to do all this work as it is easier out of the car, and you can get at things better to clean them up. If you do not have a hoist, all of this can be done in the car, except the rear main seal and the oil seperator (you would want to pull it off and reseal it is all). The seals in a car will generally last about 150K miles before normal operating temps bake them to the consistancy of plastic, at which point they are not really sealing anything anymore. replacing the seals and idlers will add years of reliability to your engine. I also recomend using the California timing belt (they are the same price from 1st Subaru Parts, and the California belt will fit a federal car just fine. The California belt is a 100K mile belt, while the federal belt is a 60K mile belt)

Also pull the plug on that cyl. it could be fouled from earlier misfires (just clean it up and go). . .

Most likely it was trying to park off the side of the road and the front tires went over that lip on the end of where he was pulling in. Heh, almost looks like keep going forward and you can coax it out that way. . . I'd turn a heavy right as soon as it got started going so as to clear that lip with the rear quarter. . .

If you have a component that is marginal the higher heat of summer may make it fail more often. Since I have not been following the saga, I offer you the advice of coilpack, igniter, and connections. . . Make sure the connections are clean first, this is the cheapest. then see if replacing the ciolpack helps, or perhaps you can try the igniter first. Either of the two being marginal will show up more when driven for a distance, or when it is hot. Oh, and #3 and #4 are both on the same circuit of the coilpack or the igniter. . .

On a 93, the one that would cause no spark is 13, the cam angle sensor. How many miles on the car overall? the timing belt is only rated for 60,000 or 100,000 miles, depending on wether you have federal or California emmissions. I would pull the left (drivers side) timing belt cover and check the condition of the belt. If you want to pll the cam angle sensor and check on it's condition, it is right behind the pully that is behind that same cover. you reach behind the rear cover with a 10mm box wrench and remove that one bolt. the sensor then just pulls out. As was previously mentioned, the cover should be fairly clean, and anything on it should simply wipe off. If there is a lot of stuff on it, We need to know that, and what it looks like. We will also need to know what the belt looks like, and if it has any slack in it.

In a 93 Legacy, you need to connect the two black connectors that are nearer the center console. The two green ones right above where the ECU is are for diagnostic tests with the car running. You will get a series of long and short flashes for each code stored by the ECU. The long flashes represent the 10's (count them), then you will get some short flashes, they are the 1's. for example a code 12 would be 1 long then two short flashes. When all codes stored have been displayed, the sequence starts over. Gather the codes, and bring them back to us. We can then help you pinpoint the problem based on what codes are showing.

OK, that is what happens when the thread goes to multiple pages. . . *sigh*

Actually, it is the crank sensor. The knock sensor is below tin intake maniford to the rear of the engine. It looks like the right sensor for the engine being worked on too. . . Is there corrosion or somesuch on the inside of the hole that barrel goes into?

Mossy, at 171K your Legacy is just getting good and broke in. . . 265K on my 92 and it is still going strong. I use it to carry tools to go around and fix other peoples Subarus. . . Engine hoist and all goes in the back real well (yeah, that tends to blow a few minds ). I pulled the heads off at 200K just to inspect the cyl walls. Only marks I could find on them came from the factory! At 200K, I recomend new seals all around, check the tensioners and replace as needed, new timing belt, and if the water pump has not been replaced, do it. Well worth the investment!

Am I the only one here that goes straight to "take the thing loose from teh dash and clean it properly"? < G > If you search under "Climate control backlight" you will find several threads with instructions on how to take that part of your car apart, and put it back together again. While it is apart, you will find it much easier to clean it real well and have it working for a good long time. If you "just squirt some stuff in there", the gunk that is gumming the works up will still be there, and will cause you problems again. Just my $.02. . .

On the EJ25: the UFO looking thing on the driver's side is the EGR valve. The item just to the right of the throttle body is the IAC (idle Air Control) valve which controls how much extra air is let in at idle. Not sure on the EJ22 manifold, but the top part looks like it may also be an IAC valve.

Couple of points: The plastic seperator plate was only used from '95-'99. Subaru discovered how bad an idea that was and went back to the metal ones, then redesigned it again to an even better metal one. Second, the flywheel uses a longer bolt than the flex plate (that is what the AT "flywheel" is called) as the mating area is much thicker. Because the mating area on the flex plate is so thin, that backing plate is used to reinforce it at that point. you need the bolts that came out with the flywheel in order to install this flywheel in your car. There will also be electrical considerations with this retrofit, as the computer also uses some signals from the transmission to control several aspects of engine performance. Thirdly: Yes, replace the rear main seal. Be careful putting it in, but it does go bad after a while. I went with the advice that it never goes bad and now my clutch disk is soaked with the oil that is leaking out of my engine past it. I have to pull my engine again, and clean everything off with brake cleaner before putting a new disc in. Yes, I'll be putting a new rear main in as well. . .

Yeah, both of those are in line with what i was thinking. Before I replace the thing, I want to make sure it is really bad.

I need to check the cam and crank sensors in a 90 Legacy as they are suspect (pulled code 11 from ECU). Is there a good way to check the crank angle sensor before replacing it at a cost of $300? Same question for the cam angle sensor. . .

You mentioned the AT temp light. Did you see anything from the CEL before the engine died? You can also pull the codes from the computer with an OBD II code reader. These can also often be rented.

John, the steps for the job are: 1) put the car up on 4 jackstands 2)remove the exaust (all of it) 3)drain the transmission 4)remove the propeller shaft (driveshaft that goes to the rear) (you may have a heat shield that you need to remove to get to it) 5) remove shifter linkage with a drift punch at teh input to the transmission (you need to do this in order to get the extension housing off) 6)support the transmission with a jack and remove the rear transmission mount. 7) remove rear extension housing 8)remove and replace visious coupling in rear extension housing. 9) assembly is the reverse of disassembly. . . So about ten steps roughly. Yes I have done this at least once. . .

Subarus tend to make a lot more sense than a lot of other cars. That is why I fell in love with mine the first time I opened up the hood. It is also why I prefer to work on them over any other car (I do mobile mechanic work in the SF Bay Area)

But I like driving too fast. . . Heh, I grew up where you are now, and live out here. You grew up out here and live where I grew up. . . Sounds like we swapped. . . Oh, '92 Legacy wagon so my headlights are great. . .