turboguzzi

it was one of those rare cases where id say: easier done than said even with the window stuck on up. all done in 20 minutes. in the name of science, opened the old motor, all damage was due to water ingression, god knows how it got there

well, assembly arrived.... watched the video, was a bit of a cringing experience, who uses a power mini impact to tighten bolts that hold the glasss?.... Anyway, it does help preparing for the job tomorrow my challenge is going to be the non working motor, means i cant lower the window to get to the glass retaining nuts.... Any ideas on how to make the mech go down without the motor working?

gee, just saw now "74 items sold"! so yes, looks like a recurring problem for many...

well, tore it down today, tried to feed 12V directly to the motor plug dead at least found one at decent price for europe https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254525521821

when i was poorer i made my own with a piece of thick wall pipe, some drifts done on a lathe and the biggest threaded rod i could find, think it was a M14 or M18. it wasnt fun, a bit sketchy too, but it did the job, Where there's a will, there's a way

Ok, tnxs for the insights!

interesting, so essentially motor gets "tired" and best to replace the whole thing? to a motorcyclist wrench like me it looks like the mechanism just needs TLC, but might be wrong

Realize now i havent been here in a long while... you can blame the reliability of my two foresters... well, the electric driver window of my 2005 is really struggling going up and down, need to "help" the window go in both directions Before i tackle this, I tried to do a search for relevant posts, got all sorts of results BUT the ones i need 😶 Did try to lubricate a bit the glass itself to see if its just guide friction, but no, it hardly helped So before tearing into the door, whats the most likely culprit? your inputs are welcome

here in italy they were called "GL" spec, mine was exactly same level of spec, electric windows, all other buttons seem to there, just one empty switch space. my old one was a 92, this one is a 93, both have the high roof bulge, makes for a very airy feeling inside, specially for someone who's 6'4" like me, wish it had cruise control but never seen it in really old Legs round here.

Yes, im in milan, and car is just 40 miles from home.... only 2500$ .... must resist, must resist....

After two Legs, a 92 and a 95, i moved on to a Forester 4 years ago, bought also one for my GF... But every now and then i check to see if a nice old Leg is around and gosh, shouldnt have open the site! this came up for sale, one owner, 80K miles.... on top,it's exactly same color as my first Leg, 18 years ago.... even the price is good.... I know it's dorky but how to resist?

Indeed, it's not an assembly, but can get all the dry tubes looks like i was simply looking in the wrong area.... found http://opposedforces.com/parts/forester/en_s11/type_1/intake_and_supply_system_turbocharger/intake_manifold/illustration_5/ 18 years old is rather new in my book , certainly compared to my 1989 Vitara....

Hei folks, While doing some periodic maintenance and servicing, noted that the two rubber tubes coming up form th ePCV assembly are totally stiff and dry, would like to replace them red dots in pic well.... went to opposedforces but just can find the part number for it! closest i got was in the PCV diagram, but it has numbers for the two smaller pipes, not the assembly in the middle that i need! any idea where to find the pat number? Car is a european X2.0 2004 forester with EJ20 tnxs!

yes, i know OEM is Denso, thats why it sucks that mine failed in two years. no coolant in exhaust, car is not consuming any... need a new one anyway, ngk seems more affordable, might give it a try

Well, after replacing my upstream Lambda sensor with an OEM quality Denso DOX-0307, just two years/20K miles ago, It is kaput again. It’s been in a 2005 2.0 euro forester before jumping to buy another Denso, was wondering if there are better alternatives? A cross reference check gives it as a replacement for 22641AA140,22641AA230,22641AA280, So far the only one I found is this https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Print-Lambda-Sensor-ADS77008/dp/B00B8YMD34 if anyone has a better idea, I'd love to hear. Thanks in advance TG

well, it's been sold to someone else, my problem solved!

i dont have a plan or room to own multiple cars, my 110K miles 2nd gen forester would have to go. to be my daily driver it would have to have LPG and tow hook, like mine does tempted to offer the guy to install them, give him my car and see how much id need to add... my car's value is about 3K euro

My trusted mechanic in lake Como (which luckily i dont need to use often) has this mint condition 20K forester for sale.... mmm... very tempted... https://www.autoscout24.com/offers/subaru-forester-2-0-16v-cat-4wd-wz-solo-30-000km-gasoline-silver-7bd72ad1-5ac5-4406-9aa7-cb320c56a975?cldtidx=4&cldtsrc=listPage essentially led most of it's life closed in a garage, scroll through pics

yep, more or less what i tried, but with shops closed, didnt want to risk deforming the threads on the bolt and then wait for a new part if SHTF @Ido All sage advice, some relevant for workshops/serial fixers... i am more in the "two subaru hosehold" range, not much room to hoard, so this type of event is a once in 5 years kind of thing... BTW, Ido is a very Israeli sounding name... Subarus were extremely popular there in the 80s-90's... any connection?

well, it worked out ok, CVs are back in, car back on road, i used the complete hub to push the CV and make the C-spring snap into place the ball joint does get in the way of the hub as the rubber bushings of the arm push it up. found a simple workaround by tying the arm down with an adjustable strap to one of the jack stands. With CV in place, i simply released the strap and the CV pop back in after reading here, tried also to drive the bottom joint bolt out of the arm.... like no way, not for me, at least not without the proper puller.

well, the clutch is changed and tranny is back in already... there are a few reasons i pulled the tranny from the bottom in my two foresters: 1. dont have a hoist, but it was easy to build a simple adapter to my floor jack to support the tranny 2. both my cars are LPG, so taking the engine out means disconnecting also the LPG related gas tubing and connectors to the LPG CPU 3. seen this well detailed how to and it seemed easy, indeed, in my 1st gen forester with the old style Cv i did it all in 12 hours. https://www.rs25.com/threads/diy-clutch-replacement-pictorial.128163/ 4. thats also what my trusted subaru mechanic recommended, thats how he does it in his workshop looks like engine vs tranny out is quite a topic of discussion,

neat, bit to use it you need to pop out the ball joint from the suspension arm.... is that easier? for the procedure recommended by the manual, doesn't really help...

well, it went better on the other side, it pop'd out... it worked best by using a pray bar between arm and housing. only then realized that the top area is kind of barrel shaped so the cocking on the way out is no issue, was just afraid of making things worse with stronger blows. should have searched a picture of the ball joint before.... on the "bad side", with the arm loose, managed to wiggle it out too, it was really quite rusted, took quite few blows from front an back to come out. odd because my area is not bad with rust... the underbody of my 15 yr old car is perfect otherwise, all bolts are totally rust free, the only ones to have rust where the two holding the ball joint in the housing. looks like water enters through the slot in the metal and just stays there. rust never sleeps...

well, being the DIYer I am, built a tool.... half an hour of work with some old iron angles and it worked like a charm. What sucks is the length of the shaft! you really have to pull out the hub outwards a very long way! Didn't manage to disassemble the bottom steering ball from the housing like the manual suggest, every time i tried it would cock when half way out and get stuck, so for now, on one side i had to disassemble the whole bottom suspension arm and only then it went ok... Compared to the old style CVs this is hell... on my old Legacies it was just removing the front arm bolt, pull a little bit and CV was out of its short stub. Same with the a first gen forester, on 2nd gen they really went backwards in serviceability. or is it just me? any tips for the newer CV removal are welcome ...

wasnt expecting this, but i am in middle of a clutch change and turns out that my inner CV joint are of the integral shaft type, no rolled pin to push out.... odd because all my previous subarus had the pin holding the green CV on the stub these have the stub as an integral part of the CV.... so how do i remove the CVs from the gearbox? looks like some sort of forked instrument is needed ? or simply a hammer blow on the housing? thanks in advance