turboguzzi

interesting update reading in forums about all kinds of "no connection to ECU" issues through android apps, decided to give it a try through my laptop's BT with a windows application. So with ScanMaster ELM was able to get my codes, so quite interesting that these known problems with cheap ELM327 BT dongles, might be related in many cases to the program doing the reading rather than the HW. Cant say that all the functionalities in the program work, it still shows some issues as it connects through "unkown protocol" but that might be because my car has an additional LPG ECU that might confound the scanner. In any case, my MIL on turns out to be related to the upstream A/F sensor heater (P0051), so that's being replaced as soon as i get the part + special socket

i towed with my 1st and 2nd gen 2.0 legacies 5MT euro model my motorocycle on a trailer with quite a bit of other gear on (gazebo, etc) while car was fully loaded, all up and down italy no problem, but that's maybe 1200 pounds total towed, 2500 doesnt sound too safe. whatever you decide, beyond total weight what's really critical is weight on the hook. try to balance load in the trailer so you have no more than 200 lbs resting on it.

Hello guys Decided to take a chance on one of those super cheap ELM327 BT dongle and using it with Torque Pro, but get "no connection to ECU" no matter what. Tried also the tip i've read about of setting the iso9141 protocol instead of the code autoscan... nada. No big deal, just a few $ lost.... Does anyone have an ebay link to a cheap ELM327 BT dongle known to work on subarus, a 2004 forester 2.0X with NA EJ20 in my case? tnxs in advance! TG

not to hijack, but out of curiosity... i have an early leg SW like you. what device do you use to get the codes? Tnxs Y

hi guys well, at the end it turned out that it had the old style rebuildable coupling so i count myself lucky. Went to this super friendly small Subaru specialist that i know and it all cost around 500$ including coupling rebuild and labour, Regretfully for most, he is located near Lake Como in Italy, so of help only to italian subaroids, doubt if there many (or any...) of us here, but just in case: www.autoklaus.com i usually do all of my wrenching, but being on crutches following a motorcycle accident, just couldnt do it this time, would have been a bit of a stretch for me anyway.... tnxs again for your info

tnxs for the info guys. so number location would be as in the pic right? do i need to order other parts to do the job? havent seen a really good description of the work but sounds like its an on-the-car job. whats not clear to me is if all the transfer case needs to come off or if by just removing the end cover i can change the coupling tnxs again TG

Oh well, my girlfriend's otherwise perfect 99' forester started doing that strange on off rumbling noise in tight turns... Lifted the wheels one at a time to do the torque test and yes, it grabs then releases, so 99.9% it's a viscous coupling gone. now for the ID issue, according to this well put together guide : https://www.alldrivesubaroo.com.au/gearbox/subaru-centre-differential/ i have a hard time knowing if i have the 91'-98' TY752 gerabox that uses the early type coupling or or the TY754, 755, 757, 758 1999 - current gearbox that uses the newer type coupling (scroll to middle of the page) the opposed forces PL even shows three options to the transfer case http://opposedforces.com/parts/forester/en_s10/type_1/manual_transmission/mt_transfer_and_extension/ Is there anyway to know from the vehicle ID what type of gearbox/coupling i need? VIN JF1SF5LJ4XGxxxxx shows it's an SF5 forester from late 99, any way to know for sure what coupling type should i look for? tnxs in advance! TG

ok, "problem" solved nothing more than flipping the parking light switch on top of the stering coloumn.... looks lik ei touched it while cleaning the interior! a short search revealed the secret in a youtube video

hi folks should have learned my lesson. 6 years ago, when i commented to my GF how well my leg was running, after 30 miles main wiring harness went up in smoke not subaru's fault, later discovered an AC technician did some weirdo shortcuts... any way, last night, after commenting to my GF how great the 99' forester we bought a year ago is running, someone signals me to check the rear lights.... so never compliment you subbie while driving, seems like they go "now i'll show ya" when they hear it a quick walk around the car shows that: front position lights, rear tail lights & number plate lights are not running. number 5 fuse inside the car is ok, same for all the fuses in the motor bay box. just for peace of mind i also changed all bulbs: the front position bulbs and the tail/brake lights on the back, still nothing. doesnt seem to be a ground problem, the brake filaments in the same bulbs as the tail lights are working fine, brake lights come on no problem. couldnt find in the manual where are the front position lights fused, same fuse as the number 5 fuse? turn signals, reverse lights work ok Any ideas where else to look? tnxs in advance! TG

good! thanks for that! this are more like the sizes i fitted discovered this page that shows that same oring has several numbers http://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru__Legacy/_54104_6021151/AIR-CONDITIONER-SYSTEM/B11-730-01.html my kit has same diamters but 2mm , so all good , the 2.4mm were too big

actually it was in that forum that i found also a list, but none of the dimensions worked on my system, they were all pointing at 2.4 mm rings, mine were much thinner. must be for other models. found them here: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/44938-c-air-conditioning-oring-o-ring-sizes-log-only-no-replies.html problem solved for the time being by "feel", car filled this morning and cools great, lets see how they hold and if any one does have the OEM dimensions, he is welcome to post

was asking because the old ones are totally set into a deformed triangle/round/square section, you know what i am talking about .... thought there was a chance that someone happened to have measured OEM ones before fitting will go with feel/fit/eyebal like always, was just trying to be more scientific tnxs in any case

decided to follow a member's advice and change the A/C o-rings before a recharge got a neat 270 kit to choose from, and still, could be cool if someone actually knew what are the sizes, so it's not a trial and error thing and yes, did some googling, but the one thread were i saw o-ring dimensions they were definitely not for my model (1995 Leg SW MT5) the three different sizes P/N are: 73039AA060 73039AA080 73039AA090 thanks i advance! TG

indeed, asking myself and forum members if to let go off my 2nd gen leg and buy that 3rd gen 2.5 leg in the ad it's got already the Liquid Petroleum Gas kit installed, like my current car has, which cuts fuel costs by half here, so that's a big plus. and with about 120K miles its just run in think i am going to see the car anyway. but are there any immediate signs if the motor has HG problems like bubbles in the radiator or water condensation in the oil cap?

hei river long time.... does that OBW run on LPG too? dont know about Holland but here in italy you can get fined for non std tire diemnsions, insurance could ever refuse compensation in an accident. had at least one routine police check where the officer compared whats written in the car documents to the actual tire size.... maybe in NL they are more forgiving

tnxs texan, but the car had a light front collision in it's past so it could be the A/C radiator too. and like i said, car interiror is kind of tired too, finding a decent driver seat quite difficult, no easy fix for that so back to my initial question..... go for a car with ej251 or not ?

the story in a nutshell: My current 2nd gen 1995 EJ20 legacy SW (i'm in europe..) is just fine mechanically, the only reason i'm thinking of changing it are interiors in really bad shape and an AC system that cant hold a charge for more than a month, just the kind of stuff i hate working on.... would like to go buy a 1st gen like my first leg, but these are becoming super rare here if not downright impossible to find... Came across this my 2000 3rd gen leg with 100k miles, only issue is that it's a EJ251 (i guess) https://www.autoscout24.com/offers/subaru-legacy-lpg-grey-f4385e51-ed8c-d83f-e053-e250040a8b5f?cldtidx=3 waht do you guys say? worth taking the risk of a car with the 2.5L engine or better keep looking for a EJ20 engined one? (EJ22 are almost non existent in europe) tnxs!

tnxs guys we wanted to do some white trails in the weekend but weather really sucked.... anyway, my girlfriend took to it like fish in water, loves it, specially the sun roof, even if we saw mostly drain drops on it only trouble she was having was adapting to the more precise clutch engaging when shifting. We all drive manuals here in italy but her opel was softer than the forester in that sense. She was getting smoother as the weekend passed. so yes, it's a 5MT with dual range.

could be also the usual oil pump seal / bolts coming loose

It's a 1999 2.0L 5MT forester, 106K miles, not very loaded with extras but that electric sunroof surely makes up for it! it has a 12 galon Gas tank in place of the spare wheel, just like in my Leg, and overall makes the only two decalred highly believable. On the way to her place I did a little bit of "Italian Tuning", i.e. kept her almost pinned down for 15 minutes at 110 MPH on the auotstrada to get rid of all the crap and deposits, engine indeed felt even nicer after the high speed blast. My 95' Leg is in good health and has the same EJ20 motor, so am quite amazed at how much stronger this Forester's motor feels. My lady is pretty chuffed with her new toy, let hope it holds up as well as it looks.

When my girlfriend's Opel Astra 1.7 Turbo diesel SW started giving her some grief a year ago i told her that her next car will be a subaru forester.... In the last ten years that we are together she already knew to appreciate subbie quality form my two leagacies Well, her Opel's ECU gave up the ghost two weeks ago so i jumped on italy's popular search engine and unbelievably, found exactly what we were looking for at first try Reqs were: 1st series Forester (coolest looking IMHO) No more than 100K miles LPG (Liquefied petroleum gas) system already installed Well, so here she is:

nice fellows smashed the rear passenger window of my 95's Leg SW, took my GF's tablet, etc. while we were out pedaling by the river. oh well, life i guess... broken window went out easy , am having more of an issue inserting the used window i found back into the slot due to the blue bearing wheel and front guide being wider than the slot.... ive taken out the two internal sliders of course, but stil cant see how to slot it in without using brute force on the metal sheet. any secret tips here that i am missing? workshop manual is not that detailed here.. tnxs in advance TG

great, mistery solved! looks like by part number i am aable to locate a supplier in europe. cool, tnxs again

tnxs fairtax, helpful as always regetfully partsgeek doesnt ship to italy.... and cant find any EMPI reseller in europe and the mistery of no part number for the inner boot remains open, seems to be the case all over the range, odd any other tips anybody? tnxs in advance