turboguzzi

forgot to add that i am also a bargain hunter, trying to see if somebody charges less for same. usually if you buy directly from a bearing shop, cost can be half. cheers tg

After all the horror stories about rear wheel bearings, am trying to see if somebody else makes same sized double taper roller bearings, like SKF for instance. So far I found that the original manufacture code for the bearing (KOYO) is 46T0807050 but their online catalog doesnt find it. Does anybody got a rear wheel bearing at hand that can be measured? Either used or new? critical dimensions are: internal diameter, outer diameter and length (of the outer case). This will also help me design a simple pull out tool to replace the bearing like the one shown in the service bulletin (but without the 800$ cost...) Will be happy to share the design if it works, that is! Tnxs TG

did an intresting test. with the engine running I disconnected the hose to the valve and found that at idle, there was a considerable vacum at the valve entrance. cleaned the valve from all the gum and still, it wont shut down ermetically. According to the replies here, the valve should shut down fully at high vaccum but it doesnt. Should it? Maybe its worn? Did anybody ever noticed if a new valve does shut the flow fully? Thanks

Thanks all for the replies. Pulled out the valve and it seemed very dirty asnd clogged. any problems washing it with gas? why is everybody suggesting getting a new one? blitz, most systems I know off use the light vaccum downsrtream of the air filter and hook up BEFORE the throtle body, mostly to the center of a typical pancake air filter cover . if you hook up after the throtle body you have to control a huge vaccum and indeed subarus depend on that valve working properly. But then, i live in Italy and emission systems might be different here than in the US.

OK, thanks for the info. Had another look at the manual and seen that the pcv valve does indeed close the passage at high vaccum. What confused me is that in other cranckase vent systems, there is simple a one-way valve going out of the cranckase. will check this afternoon to see if stuck. Is it a must to change? And BTW, shall I find it screwed to the manifold somwhere? cheers TG

due to high oil consumption in, been reading the posts regarding the PCV valve here as well as the service manuals..... and something just doesnt make sense. Subaru seems to use a system unlike anything I've seen. the pcv valve attaches to the manifold after the throttle body. that indeed means that when coasting downhill there is a very large vaccum sucking the cranckase vapors into the engine AND new air enters the engine throught the valve covers tubes thus creating a strong air flow that no doubt, has big chances of picking up aerosoled oil so it simply burns.... I am baffled! No other engine that I worked on (and I worked on a few) has the pcv attached AFTER the throttle body under FULL engine vaccum or either "fresh air" intakes. Most engines simply suck whatever vapors come out without having to apply vaccum. maybe just some, i.e. the low pressure created downstream of the air filter. has anybody tried to modify the subbie system to a more common layout? planning on doing this for the sake of science. any warnings? thanks TG

thanks gonna give a try with the nut splitter (if I can find one here in italy...) Cheers TG

Hello All Was thinking of changing the silencer in my 92 legacy and thought it a good idea to break loose the bolts before ordering the thing.... Good idea indeed as the bolts are totally frozen with rust and already rounded off the hex in one nut....I'm of course talking about the two bolts holding the flanges together. Any idea how do they deal with these in the shops? Tried to come near with an angle grinder but there is no access, speciallly to the right side bolt that sits higher. Tried to drill too but bolt seems very high grade steel. Any other ideas? Thanks TG

Oi there Changed the engine oil pump o-ring on my 92 Legacy the other day, using many tips from the forum, so wanted to give something back.... Here are a few extra tips and interesting findings. Fan removal. The two bottom screws fit into slots in the fan frame. So no need to remove them, just unscrew them a bit. Saves a lot of agro when refitting... Main belt pulley bolt. Didn’t have anything handy to stop the engine from turning while trying to undo. Put a long ring spanner on bolt, left the car in 5th gear with handbrake on, and using a long wood plank, hit the spanner end a few times, not too strongly. After some 5-6 hits the bolt loosened, the flywheel acting as a stopper against the jolts. Found that the engine oil pump wasn’t the only thing leaking. The ATF fluid reservoir of the power steering pump has an o-ring between it and the pump body and it was leaking too, covering the engine top with oil. Emptied the reservoir using a syringe and a tube, and refitted it with the old o-ring but with plenty of sealant around. Everything is dry now. A biggie. Turned out that the whole steering pump was holding on with just one screw!!!! Put another two screws, loctited the three of them. Check yours out. Screws can be seen through the holes in the pulley. Tried to clean the rubber seals between the cam belt covers with kerosene, turned out to be a big mistake! The rubber swells and the seals are almost useless now. Use just soapy water on them. Was surprised to see how distorted the back belt covers were, specially the one behind the right side cam pulley (due to ATF fluid leak?). Was a bit of a pain fitting them back on without them touching the pulleys or belts. Any body has got an idea of the cost of these covers + rubber seals? Might want to fit new ones. As witnessed by everybody, engine oil pump screws were VERY loose. Fitted pump back using loctite on the screws and quite a bit more torque. 300 miles and everything is super dry, zero oil consumption. Seems like the quart per 1000 miles that I was adding was finding its way to the ground all the time... Cheers Turboguzzi

OK found the support flange and the piece attaching to the bodywork was indeed missing. Theres a broken bit still attached to the pipe with the bolt... No wonder the headers broke. Sounds like an important item to check from time to time. Fixed with good old wire for the moment, gonna get the part ASAP (guess that means in a year or two:-) ) Cheers T-G

Story-D Headers were welded today, for 10$. The muffler repair shop was asking 700$ for the whole collector assy..... kills me, guess some people just nod with their heads and say go ahead! Gonna mount them this evening and see if there's indeed some kind of U support. If not, guess I'll have to fashion my own. Will appreciate if you could post a picture of course, maybe showing to where is it supposed to attach. Any extra info will be apreciated. Tnxs TG

Thanks Al Being located in italy, the last thing you want to do is go with aftermarket, it would make passing the bi-anual state inspection a real hassle. and I have to do it right now... Your story about a clamp to the bodywork holding up the whole thing around the headers-central pipe joint confirms my suspicions that it is indeed missing in my car. Will appreciate if somebody could post a pic of that area... Thanks T-guzzi

Hello All After a few weeks with an increasing exhaust noice from the left/front of my 92 legacy, the headers have finally and fully cracked. It happened on the left side indeed, right after the two pipes coming down from the cyl. head join a single tube. It's only now that I realize that the same happened on the right side and its been already welded. Welding it back shouldnt be a problem. What surprises me is: 1. Havent found any threads on this on the forum, is it an uncommon problem? 2. With all the weight of the cat and rest of the collector bending these welds, no wonder they break. My car has no strap to support the weight, let say, after the cat chamber. is it just missing? 3. Anybody knows of a kit or DIY solution for a support to better carry the collector assembly weight? Cheers T-Guzzi

Thanks to all who helped with advice here! Bought a 92' 2L 5spd AWD (European model) with 60K miles ten days ago and already put in it another 2K! Very happy so far, runs like a dream but a few questions: 1. A bit confused about the FWD fuse. Do all manual, 5spd AWD have this fuse or is it just an option? There doesn’t seem to be one in my car. 2. Headlights washer doesn’t work and pressing the button dims the lights, pump stuck I guess. Any experience with that? Links to a diagram? 3. Still on the headlights washer, any idea how are the sprinkling nozzles attached to the bumper? Would like to dismantle these for cleaning. Links to a diagram? Cheers from Milan, Italy

Hello All Thanks for the extra and encouraging info. Hope that my next posting will be as an owner! Cheeers T-G

Hi short lid. Yes, shoot. I run a 89' GSXR1100 (that makes more power than the legacy I intend to buy ) + a host of others. Restored my share of british classics too. Actually I need this legacy to tow my bike trailer... OLS. its 105K kilometers = about 60K miles. I converted for you "americani" I am spoilt for choice: one is 1250$ (1000 euros) but a bit scruffy body wise, another at 2500$ but unbelivable well kept, one lady owner, not a scratch. both have 60K Miles and are manual. Then there is another but automatic at 2000$, 65K. Still no info on any proper tech site or buyers guide? Got very little from searching google. Cheers T-G

Tnx its written Ciao btw any idea what's my motor code?

Hello All I am deep into motorcycles (see nick), done from the ground up restorations, so quite technical. Yet, I want to buy a 92 legacy GL SW with 60K miles and do not know much about problems points, what to check etc. Any help/tips will be appreciated. I am in Italy, hence motor is 2.0. Any links for model history, tech info? Cheers turboguzzi PS If anybody has any motorcycle mechanics questions, I'll be glad to help