beezer

Well if the car is saying there is a problem with the IAC that would be a good place to start. I've had a problem where it will screw up 2 cylinders when the my IAC acts up. Cleaning it will not help if you are getting a code . What do you mean by which IAC valve? Like nipper said another good spot to look is the crank and cam sensors. Nobody here can see your car, hear your car, or tinker with it. Be patient there are a lot of smart people on this board and will get you pointed in the right direction. BTW, most people show a little more appreciation for the advice given on this forum. Good Luck Beezer

I know there was a thread once where the a whistle was caused by a bad gasket between the air control valve and the throttle body. Maybe something to look at. Good Luck Beezer

Sorry to hear that, that really sucks! As far as MAF sensors go, I'm pretty sure the fords used a "film" type MAF sensor. While Subes use a wire type MAF. This may explain why cleaning the Ford ones may help, but, it is pretty much useless on the Subes. I also think the MAF cleans itself by heating the element up to around 1000 deg. when you shut the car off. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Beezer

I'm just throwing this out there. I thought my crank pulley was wobbling as well, it just happened to be the way the dirt and crap that was on it had accumulated giving it the appearance that it was wobbling. If this makes any sense. Maybe something to consider. As far as your question goes, I'll let one of the smarter guys field that. Beezer

Think there should be 2 relays there, the main and the fuel pump. The top roundish one should be the fuel pump relay. Beezer

Your car should idle around 700-800 rpm's I imagine. To replace the seals you would hafe to do the while timing belt again, the cam and crank sprockets hafe to come off to get at them. If they are leaking badly you will see oil seeping through the timing belt cover The "gurgle" noise, I really have no idea. I'll take a guess and say something to do with the coolant. Never done a clutch before so someone else will hafe to take this. Beezer

No I haven't replaced the IAC yet, due to a little shortage on funds right now. The car does run well 90% of the time though. I can live with it for now, it doesn't drive me nuts as much now that I now what the problem is. Your car probably has a MAP sensor on it. I'm sure it would be throwing a code if it was bad or was not functioning within it's parameters. If it is under warranty, then yeah, take her in and let them figure it out and get back to us. Beezer

I don't think fuel pressure reg. are a very common problem with subes. It is a possibility, but, this would probably be a pretty consistent problem. If you have a fuel pressure gauge and a vacuum pump you could test the fuel pressure reg.. A leaking injector could be the problem, but I 'm guessing all four of the spark plugs are soaked in gas, so the chances that all four injectors are leaking is pretty slim. Start with the coolant temp. sensor, and if that isn't the problem then move on to the fuel system etc. Good Luck Beezer

I would say to start at the coolant temp. sensor again. I would think if it is the MAF you would have driveability problems, not just start up problems. I'm not positive on how much the MAF affects starting. I have started my car with the MAF disconnected, and it will start, but will stall within 5 seconds or so.The IAC could cause such problems too, you would probably get a CEL if this was bad however. I would say maybe spend the $30 or so and try the coolant temp. sensor again. Should ask, do you have a CEL on? If you do, start there, you can go to Legacy777 website to find info on how to retieve the codes. Good Luck Beezer

The most accurate way would be to have a EGT gauge so that you can monitor it. Giving it a minute or two will probably work too, and you'll probably be fine. If you are very concerned however, then install a gauge. It is just a guessing game without having a one. Just my opinion. Beezer

Jenn, The fuel pump relay should be hidden behind the fuse box. You will hafe to unscrew the fuse box, it should be back there somewhere. Beezer

If you need to, look at Legacy777 pictures at https://www.mail.experiencetherave.c...s/DCP2488.JPG the little black thing should be in one of the pictures. Oh crap that link isn't working for me...........sorry. I know Legacy777 does have some pictures though, it is of his injector work. Hope it works out for you. Beezer

Chef Crap! Just spent 15 minutes typing to get kicked out! So here is the condensed version. I would switch to 10w30, if you are worried go with a synthetic. I live about an hour from you, and yeah we have had a pretty mild winter so far. I'm sure living in Toronto highway driving is probably pretty normal. The owners manual does seem pretty specific that 5w30 should not be used for extended highway driving. I have been using 10w30 for the last 2 winters with no ill effects that I know of. The 1st version was much better, sorry got to go. Beezer

I probably wouldn't use it unless you typically hafe sub-freezing temps. The owners manual doesn't recommend it if you are doing extended highway driving either. Beezer

Like already mentioned I would check the tires first, ie. tire pressure, balance alignment. My other thought is wheel bearings. My car needs new bearings and tie rod ends and I will get intermittent vibration in the wheel at highway speeds. Axles can also transmit some vibration into the steering wheel as well. I would jack the front of the car up and the grab the tire at 12:00 and 6:00 and try and wiggle it in and out. There shouldn't be any movement, if there is, replace the bearings. I would look at the tie rod ends and balljoints too. For the axles take a look to see if the boots are torn or are showing sign of leaking grease. Getting a trans. flush and all the ordinary tune up stuff is always a good idea. Good luck Beezer

If there is corrosion on the coil pack then it should probably be replaced. As far as the IAC goes, a slight bobble at idle may be fixed by cleaning it. For a large fluctuation I would say it would have thrown a code. I might check to see if the TPS is set correctly. Maybe O2 sensor. Sorry just guessing. Good Luck, I feel your pain. Beezer

I might get a fuel pressure gauge and a repair manual and test the system. I would also check the resistance values acrosss the injectors, I don't remember what the values should be. If the there is a check engine light on, then I would go to Legacy777's website www.surrealimage.com to get the instructions on how to retrieve them. To me it seems like raw fuel is getting dumped into the exhaust causing the backfire. There can be other reasons too. I would check out the coil pack and the igniter. Is your charging system in good condition, ie. the battery, alternator. 12V with the car off, 14-15 with the car running. Getting a repair manual is a good idea, it helps with some of the testing. If the CEL is on I would start there, if it isn't then I would check the coil pack ignitor and the charging system and the fuel system. If this doesn't go anywhere I guess you could swap injectors to see if the sooty black stuff follows the injector or is related to that particular cylinder. Good Luck Beezer

I guess I would look to make sure the timing belt isn't broken. Just take one of the side covers off, I think it is 3-4 10mm bolts. I would also check to see if there is spark when you are cranking the engine. You might hafe to buy an ignition tester from a parts store. If there is no spark then I would look at the coil, ignitor, crank sensor and cam sensor. You will need a multimeter to test these. A repair manual would help with these tests. Other thought might be the fuel pump, but you said there is fuel present so that might be ruled out. I would check the timing belt first then check for spark at eack cylinder. Good luck Beezer

Take a look at Legacy777 website www.surrealimage.com to see what that CEL is about. You can pull the codes yourself. Look for a new place to take your car, they seem a little lacking in diagnosising problems. Report back with what you find, good luck. Beezer

CEL=Check Engine Light Maybe I shouldn't be so quick to say it doesn't have a transfer case. If you have a 4hi and 4 low 2wd then yes you would have a tranfer case. If it is AWD all the time then no you don't have a tranfer case. I'm guessing the legacy's are pretty much the same around the world. Beezer

They can't find a tranfer case for the car? Hmmm that's weird. Oh yeah, there isn't one. Might recommend a different shop that knows Subes a little better. I would recommend getting caught up on the reg. maintenace stuff, ie. plugs wires, filters etc. Is there a CEL? Change the trans fluid and the rear diff. fluid. See if any of this helps. Beezer

Have you checked for loose heat shield s around the exhaust? Beezer

I would clear the computer by disconnecting the baterry for 1/2hr or so. If the CEL comes back then check the codes again to see what there. Some of those are probably not exactly "true". The fuel purge solenoid can cause some idle issues I guess, I've read of people driving the car for quite a while with no real issues though. It simply lets the gas vapours from the charcoal canister go into the engine. The computer controlls when it opens and closes. You can clean the IAC, it is probably more effective if you take it off, you can just shoot some cleaner at it while it is still in the car if you want. Since this doesn't happen all the time this may be a pain.... but anyways. When the car is fully warmed up and you shut it off and turn it back on this is when you get the CEL right? When you turn the car off, take the IAC off and check to see if the shutter is closed if it isn't that is probably your problem. Just another thought. Good luck Beezer

I'm thinking there could be a problem in the top electrical part. If there is a bad connection there somtimes, for whatever reason this could screw around with the idle. Now don't quote me on any of this but to throw a code does there hafe to be a disruption in the current somewhere in the IAC. Or can it be thrown just by being outside the parameters of what is correct according to the computer. I don't think a code will be thrown just because the duty cycle is high. I have had problems with my IAC, you can try this if you want. Get some small pieces of wire and some small connectors and hook them up to the IAC. Start the car and disconnect 1 of the wires (I would try the A or C connection)and see if you can get the car to behave like it does when it is being stupid. The car will probaly start to idle around 1100-1200 rpm and bobble around. Might help Good Luck Beezer

Chef I think the chances would be pretty slim. The water has to get past the inner fender cover up a small section of tube(I think, memory a little hazy) then through the air filter. I'm guessing you would need a great deal of water to do this. I wouldn't worry too much. I didn't notice any signs of water in the resonator(might be the name?) and it is located lower down. Beezer