beezer

Yeah, I have been doing some reading and I agree with cleaning the MAF won't help. I can't say for sure with subes, but I guess MAF's clean themselves by heating the hot wire up to like 1000 deg when the car is turned off. So a little electrical cleaner probably won't help much. I noticed tonight that the TPS was not set correctly. What are the symptoms a car might show with the TPS not set up properly? I don't think it is the whole problem but............who knows. There is also paint on the idle screw, I'm not sure if it has been tampered with or not. The paint isn't cracked, but god only knows. Any comments on this? Beezer

Well... I'll take a shot at this. Did these problems occur before you put the induction kit etc. on? Almost sounds like a MAF problem. Is the CEL on? These MAF are a little sensitive to change. Take it out and see if it solves the problem. To reset the computer, just disconnect the battery for 1/2 hr. or so. Beezer

It is the code for the vehicle speed sensor. There are probably 2 on your car, they are on the transfer case and the transaxle. Take the car back and complain, see if they will fix it. Worth a shot! When you say "hot", is it coming from the exhaust or somwhere else?

Cougar: I just want to verify, are you talking about the throttle position sensor or the air control valve? I'm reading the voltages across the air control valve. Just want to make sure we are on the same page. Thanks Beezer

Most people here recomend NGK's. Probably a good time for all the tune up stuff if it needs it. Good Luck! Hope it is an easy fix Beezer

I've had that thought myself. The car never dies, it just runs like crap. I might try and clean it, a little nervous about that. I might check out the voltage readings on the MAF when it is running. Thanks for everybodies thoughts so far! They aren't going on deaf ears....it's just I only have so much time to tinker unfortunately. Supper is probably burning now! Beezer

Well I decided to do a little experimenting. If my problem is in the IAC then I assume that it is an electrical problem. This could be an incorrect assumption however. I know you can test for the voltage when the car is in the "on" position, the middle connection "B" to ground, mine measured 12V. I wondered what happened when the car was running. My thoughts were that in some way it must be related to the TPS..... somehow. When the throttle is completely closed, the resistance of the TPS should be zero. I figured the voltage should rise at the IAC, and vice versa. I don't know what you call it......... back pinning maybe? I hooked up three connectors to the valve itself and ran 3 short pieces of wire to the corresponding connections on the harness. This is what I found B-ground=12V at idle and with the throttle open. A-B= 3V at idle with a rise of 1/2V-1V with open throttle A-C= 5V at idle with a drop of 1/2V-1V with open throttle B-C= 8V at idle no change either way These numbers (mostly the rise and fall #)may not be completely accurate, it was hard to try and keep the connection and look at the meter and rev the engine at the same time. I will do it again just to verify everything. I don't know if these actual numbers mean anything, but, I might use it as a base line and compare the numbers when it is acting up. Anybody got any ideas on these numbers? Beezer

Maybe do a compression test, it might tell you something. I haven't had much luck with this, but, try crossing your fingers, might help. Beezer

I would look at all the regular stuff ie. fuel filter, air filter, PCV valve, plugs, wires. If I had to take a guess I might say the fuel filter or PCV valve. Is the "CEL" on? Maybe take a look at the spark plugs, see if it is running lean, rich or whatever. Beezer

Sorry for the delay in responding, the computer needed a little love too. I did a vacuum test and everything seems fine. At idle it would sit around 17-18, can't remember for sure right now. It would bobble around about a 1/2 inch/hg. If I snapped the throttle open it would shoot to 0 then to about 22 then back down to normal. I'm not saying it couldn't be the air control valve, its just a little pricey to replace and not fix the problem. The problem I have is the randomness (is that a word?) of the problem. If it happened erverytime I could suck it up and start replacing parts. Cougar, I do agree it sounds more like an electrical problem. It is hard to troubleshoot, because it usually acts up in the morning, it's dark and I'm late for work. When I do have the time to fiddle around the car acts perfectly fine. Typical huh. I might hafe to bite the bullet soon and get a new IAC or a gently used one. It just sucks, I bought the car for a little over double the price of a new IAC. Thanks, Beezer

No I haven't tested it, but I did replace it not too long ago. Will check that later. Oh, duh, forgot to mention amongst all that blathering, There is some small traces of black soot around the bottom of the 1 and 2 intake runners.

Is the "check engine light " on? Check out Legacy777 website if it is. Can you explain the "gurgle" more. What does your air filter look like?

Think you are talking about the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor. I don't know if there are tests for it or not. How much it costs I don't know. I think you can clean it with some electrical connector cleaner. The idle screw on the throttle body really shouldn't be tampered with. It is set from the factory. I heard people have had slight idle issues after playing with the screw. The only way they fixed it was to get a new one. Good luck!

I have a '92 legacy, 2.2L, 5 spd with somwhere around 250,000 km. I have been scratching my head for awhile with this problem. When I start the car the rpm's rise very slowly and after 5-10 sec the rpm's will reach 1100-1200 rpm's. The engine runs very rough, it only seems to be running on 2 cylinders. I should say it is only running well on #3 and #4 cylinders. I can pull the wires for the #1 and #2 cylinders without changing the performance too much. If I drive the car like this, up past 2000 rpm it seems to run on all 4 cylinders if I stay on the gas. When I get off the gas it seems to go back to running on 2 cylinders. It will occassionally lose power when holding a steady speed, give it a little gas and I'm back to normal again. If I let the car idle for 5 minutes or so, then turn the car off and turn it back on it will usually run normally, sometimes I have to drive it for a couple km's. Hope this makes sense, will try and clarify if it doesn't. The CEL does come on and it is always the air control valve and the fuel purge solenoid. OK, what I do know: -The car has new plugs, wires, filters (air and fuel), pcv valve. -New coolant temp. sensor and knock sensor -Battery has 12V with the car off and 14 and a bit volts with the car running. -There is spark going to all the cylinders. -The coil pack tested out fine -The air control valve tested out OK, it has been cleaned too -The injectors are working and the resistance values are the same. -The fuel purge solenoid tested fine -New timing belt, the idlers etc seemed fine -maybe other stuff I don't remember right now. The car doesn't always do it, it is more frequent now that the temp. has dropped. The problem can vary between 2 hrs. to 3 weeks in happening again. My guess is that I have a small leak at the intake manifold. Any suggestions or comments? Thanks, Beezer

Gnuman, I believe you, that it is an automatic. I was pretty sure it was, the 75W90 comment made me wonder. No need to try and fix an auto when it is a manual. About the torque bind, sorry should have put a "probably or a most likely" in there. So .......yeah it is probably torque bind. Beezer

From what I have read, the MAF sensors don't really like anything new. People have drivability issues putting intake and such on their cars. I would take the filter out and see if it helps. Any check engine light?

Is your car an automatic or a manual? If it is a manual, torque bind will not be an issue. If your car is a manual I would check the CV axles for tears or any sign that the boots are leaking grease. If they are, replace them. If you drive in a circle do you hear a distinct click, click, click sound from the outside tire? If your car is an automatic, please don't put 75W90 in it. Use ATF ???, whatever the owners manual says.

Probably be a good idea. Do a search, I think it was Setright that did a detailed write up on how to do this.

Don't think I have an answer, but noises can be very deceiving when driving. I could have sworn there was a tick, tick, tick behind my gauges, it turned out to be a electricity arcing from the coil pack to the intake. Can you get the noise to happen when the car is in neutral?

What is the CEL saying this time? It might not solve the problem, but it is a good start. How are your fuel, air filter, PCV valve etc.? What do your plugs look like? Does the idle bobble around and then die? How is the rest of your car's performance ie. mileage, hesitation etc.?

Good stuff! Subes are great cars, and very addictive, but, they can make you very, very frustrated at times

That would be the adjuster bolt, and no it shouldn't be like that. I would loosen the bolt on the square part that it is threaded into. Push the alternator all the way down, then tighten it, it should pull the alternator up the tensioner bolt to set the tension. Once the tension is set tighten the bolt on the square looking part. The coil pack looks normal. The front 2 cylinders (if you are looking at the engine from the front) are 1 and 2. And the back is 3 and 4. Coolant temp. sensor is kinda underneath the PCV valve. It is under the intake, you will probably see two, the bigger one is the coolant temp. sensor

I would reset the computer. Disconnect the battery for 1/2 hour or so, then go for a drive and see what comes back. Some of those could be false codes. Coolant temp. sensor is a possiblity, and pretty cheap to replace. They quite commonly fail on these cars but don't throw a code.

I have a '92 Legacy, and it was leaking oil at the front of the engine. So I decided it was time for new seals and a new timing belt. I had the timing belt done last fall by a mechanic, he said the seals were fine then and don't need replacing. Probably a good arguement to do the seals at every timing belt change so you don't hafe to do this more often than needed. Everything went fine except for: Snapping the bolt that holds the crankshaft position sensor. The sensor was also stuck in the oil pump. After an hour or so of gently wrestling with the sensor it came out unscathed.(Was almost to the point of running to the computer) Thankfully I could steal a bolt from one of the timing belt covers to replace the one for the sensor. I also found a bolt for one of the idler pulleys could be taken off by hand. EEEEK! Glad I found that now instead of later! Thanks Mr. Mechanic! The cranshaft seal came out easy because I took the oil pump off. The crankshaft seals, GRRRRRR. I think I have the technique down, but it is still time consuming and really not that much fun at all. Anyone else really have to curse to get the new belt on? I remember the mechanic saying he had a heck of a time getting the belt when he did it, and so did I. It was like I just needed one more tooth on the belt and it would have went on much more easily. I did the axles and front brakes on Friday, that went pretty smoothly, and the timing belt on Sunday. Couple more things should be done and then she better stop complaining for little bit. Probably not huh. The timing belt isn't that hard of a job except for those little gliches that always seem to follow. Well it came down to the moment of truth and..... she fired up. Yeah! Thanks to this forum! A year ago I wouldn't have attempted any of this. Beezer

Thanks for your help! I will report back when I am finished............ or give up. Maybe I'll try and take some pics.