beezer

Think I answered my stupid question. Judging by the printing on the coil pack mine is upside down compared to a picture on Legacy777 website.

Don't think it is the plugs or the wires. I had the problem with the old plugs and wires and with the new plugs and wires. Here is a stupid question, can I take the coil pack off, flip it around 180 degrees, then hook it back up? If the problem went to the other side then it would be safe to say it is the coil pack.

I have a 92 legacy, 2.2L. I am having ongoing problems with my car. A brief history, I had hard starting issues, erratic idle, poor fuel economy etc. Two codes always popped up 24 and 35 (fuel purge solenoid and air control valve) I found the problem to be that the one cylinder would not fire (sorry don't know what the number is, but it is the passenger side closest to the front.) I replaced the wires, plugs and the coolant temp. sensor, all these things helped and I thought I had the problem licked, no such luck. The car runs much better except occassionally when I start the car the rpm's jump up to 1300-1400 and bouces around a little. I can go and pull the wire for the above mentioned cylinder and it doesn't affect the car at all (shouldn't this send a misfire code?). I'll shut the car off, start it again and everything is fine, and the CEL goes off. The car never misbehaves while driving, only on start up. The 2 codes will appear 24 and 35. The purge solenoid checked out fine when I tested it. The car will run very well, steady idle, no hesitation, good fuel economy etc. I wondered about the coil pack, but wouldn't that affect 2 cylinders? The connections are clean, plugs gapped properly and the wires are brand new. I've gotten 90% of the problem solved, now I'm stumped. Thanks in advance

Had a similiar problem...... kind of. I'm sure this has been done, but, make sure the spark plugs are seated properly and check the wires. It took me a while but this what I found to be my intermittent problem with starting and idling, usually happened when the car was cold too.

If the ect sensor is the coolant temp. sensor, then yes this could be your problem. Pretty cheap too, so if that isn't the problem then it is only $30 wasted.

It would be really helpful if you could get the codes from the car. You can do it yourself, or get somebody to help you, it is very easy and might help.(Legacy777 website) No offence but maybe they don't really know what they are talking about.

Chef, I think he wants to know the difference in the trans. between the 2. As far as I can see from the owners manual, the differnce is the turbo has a hydraulic clutch where the NA has a cable and the final gear ratios are different. Otherwise I think they are the same, could be wrong though.

The problems started right after the last time you had the car in? What did they do?

I'm guessing you won't be working on your car, so I would suggest just to keep up the recommended service on your car. All this should be in the owners manual, it is probably in your glove box.(might cost a fortune from the dealer, but, probably worth it.) Be careful with the auto transmission, try not to spin the tires too much, and make sure you come to a complete stop before shifting gears. Don't ignore check engine lights or your gauges, get them checked out. Enjoy the car, you will learn more if you read up on this site, there is a lot of good info. Enjoy your new found turbo.

I would check out Legacy777 website for instructions on how to pull the codes from your car. I would also to a tune up on the car, fuel filter, air filter, plugs, wires, pcv valve. If these don't help, then we can go from there. Eliminate the simple problems first.

Problem solved, pretty darn sure this time.I guess the one spark plug would occassionally work and not work. I started the car, it did the same thing again, idled rough and the CEL came on. I decided I would start pulling the spark plug wires to see if all the cylinders were firing, nope 1 of them was not. Threw new plugs in, started up just fine. Frag to answer your question earlier. The car would always throw the same 2 codes 24 and 35. I tested the purge solenoid by applying 12V to it, and it ticked, so I guess it is OK. The air controll valve, the tach would bounce around at idle after it was warmed up sometimes, so I figured it just needed cleaning. If it was an electrical problem I guess I assumed it would get worse eventually, but it never did. I also couldn't figure out why the air control valve just wouldn't work when it was cold. I did have problems though sometimes where the car just wouldn't start unless I floored the gas pedal. Amongst a few other things it definately sounded like the typical symptoms of a faulty coolant temp. sensor. I image a great deal of the symptoms are directly related to the one cylinder not firing properly, but I'm still confinced the coolant temp. sensor was faulty at times. I've read that it can go without throwing a code. I can't explain why the CEL would stay on, but after throwing in the new coolant temp sensor the CEL would go out once the car was running properly. Why those 2 codes got thrown because the 1 cylinder wasn't firing I don't know either. I would like to express my appreciation to this forum and all the past advice from members (special thanks to Legacy777), it just saved me a lot of money!(I guess I can stop sitting up at night thinking about my subaru.....for now.) Thanks again, Beezer.

yes on the premium gas.

Is it a turbo?

Think I am learning a valuable lesson here, don't trust that other people know what they are doing. 1st- I am pretty sure the wrong size battery is in my car (brand new, previous owner) 2nd- Previous owner said it had new wires and plugs, yes it did, no the plugs weren't tight. (I guess I am a little naive, and didn't think to check) Would these 2 things contribute to my problem? I think it might explain why it acts up when the engine is cold because everything shrinks somewhat and there is a slight leak in compression around the plugs(maybe?, not a mechanic by any means). There was black soot on the wire boots. I am going to change the plugs and wires, can't get out today though. I am going to let the car sit and see how it is later.

This is starting to bug me! OK, before usually after the car had sat for awhile the car would act up and would set off the CEL. The CEL wouldn't go off until I reset the computer. Now this afternoon the car acted up, same codes came back. I let it run like crap for a couple of minutes, turned the car off, started it back up, acted fine, no CEL. Only seems to happen if the car sits for awhile. I took the air control valve back off tonight. This time when I cleaned it I took the magnet thingy off and was able to turn the valve more, I found more gunk (will put it on in the morning). Another thing I did notice with my car is that it came with a new battery, but it is too small. Would this cause a problem? I might check the spark plugs in the morning too, they are probably a little gummed up from the car running rich.

For the last while I have had intermittent problems hard starting, rough idling, stalling and poor fuel economy. The CEL would come on and it would be 24 and 35, the fuel purge solenoid and air control valve. So I'm a bit stubborn, poor and not convinced these are my problems. I read and read and read a bit more. I come to the conclusion it is the water temp. sensor, $35 later no more CEL. I could have wasted close to $500 on not fixing the problem, GRRRRR. Why does this happen?

I would take the car to a parts store and get them to check the computer, then go from there. Probably be a good time to do all the tune up stuff too. The transmission, I'm not too sure, but I do kind of have a question for all you experts. I know with other auto trannies that the fluid doesn't circulate when the car is in park, so if you are letting the car warm up in the morning you can put it in "N" with the e-brake on to warm up the tranny. Guys who snowplow and haul trailers quite often do this after they are done to help cool the trans off. Just a question.

Thanks!

Frag just wondering, I haven't taken a look for myself, but how do you tighten them?

Congrats on your car! I can't help with everything, but, I will try and give you a start. Spark plugs- NGK Oil leak probably not good news, probably rear crank seal, this means taking transmission off. Fenders and such, maye look around at scrap yards. Maybe get waterpump and seals done with the timing belt. Other people will probably be more help, just a start.

A couple of tricks I did learn: I had to go and purchase impact wrench sockets, good 1/2 inch sockets would probably work too. I first tried with some 3/8" and these just snapped when I tried to get the rusted bolts off. I also uhooked the sway bar. To get the end out of the control arm, on the one side I finally got it by placing a jack underneath the bolt and jacking it up. I think extreme care here is essential, make sure it is the suspesion moving up and down not the whole car. This didn't work on the other side, jumping up and down on the pickle fork worked. Alternate from one side of the knucle to the other helps here. A lot of penetrating oil is helpful too. Once I got the end loosened from the control arm I replaced the nut underneath the control arm, I didn't tighten it, I left some play there so I could get a small bar between the knucle and the control arm, then I pried the joint out of the knuckle. When I finally got it out I cleaned all the rust and junk out of the knuckle and the control arm To get the new joint back in, I pushed the joint into the knuckle as far as I could, then hooked it onto the contol arm. Then I got a brick and a 1x4 and used them as a lever to push the joint in from below the control arm. This worked very well. Replaced the pinch bolt and the bottom nut and I was all done. I did read were people people put anti-seize on the top of the ball joint, I didn't, but, it is probably a good idea.

Yes Paris, Canada, it is in Ontario.

Now that isn't very nice to say about my country. I will say though, I sure hope Bush doens't declare war on rust, or my subaru is all but blown up.

When I first started I was worried about this, and I tried to be gentle. I didn't nick, dent deform anything on the car. Trust me these things don't just fall out.

What do you get when you combine 8 hours and 2 4ft. metal bars twisted into pretzels, 3 broken sockets, 1 bent breaker bar, 1 empty can of wd-40, 1 sore back and an empty beer. Yeah, 2 new ball joints on a 1992 Legacy. I won, just barely. Sorry just had to share my experience.