DaveAP

Do you have the dual range tranny? Sorry about your rust. I live in Arizona. '78 '87 brats

Thanks, will be looking into it. dp

Thanks, for the chalk idea. That's the tip I needed.

I'm trying to figure out if I stripped out the splines on the wheel hub or if it is the stub of the trans axle gone south. I am ressurecting the brat after having it set for severel years. To me it feels like the splines have spun. I let out the clutch, it will go a ways, then I feel (hear) a clunk. I think it is the front right. How would it act if it is the axle stub? I also remember it had another weird symptom... If I drove into a slow curve, the steering wheel would whip back and forth a good 2 to 3 inches. The brat is lifted and has 14" wheels. thanks, dp

My '78 brat had that problem. I noticed a wet spot in the bottom of the rear quarter fender. I opened the panel and could see a small tube wet with gas. I just allowed it to vent to the outside. Probably not the professional way, but the smell went away. dp

Hello, I am starting to gather information to put the dual range into my '78 brat. I have been doing the search, but was hoping anyone could either link me to some of their threads or have some advice for me. I have had a couple of pm's with Bill (the beast I drive), and he has been real helpful. I hope to get with the mods and see if they could help me get those entered into this thread. I am also running this thread in the vintage forum, but haven't had any responce. I have a lifted '78 brat with a really good running import motor, 14" rims,weber, and nice custom front bumper, arizona car. Just like to have the low range. I also have the fatcase bellhousing in hand. Thanks, dave.

That is the reason I posted this call for information, to line up verifyable information. I have had some pm's with (bill) 'The beast I drive'. He is pointing me in a good direction. If it is alright with him and the mods can help me out. I'd like to get that info into this thread. Anyone else? Thanks,Dave.

Hello all. I am going to change out the single range to dual . I have the fatcase bellhousing, and a parts brat. I have been searching the forums for past threads. If anyone would like to link me to past threads or chime in on any tips I would appreciate it. I am going to keep the import 1600 motor, it runs like a top. 3' lift, 14's, weber, low roll bar, custom front bumper, original paint az car. thanks dave in prescott, az.

'78 brat I am just starting to get my lifted '78 brat back on the road. The bolt to drain the gas tank didn't have much of a head on it (only about 1/8" to grip). I just did a shower valve repair and had bought an assortment of different size deep sockets. One of them fit it perfect, 1 1/32 ". Worked great. They were cheap rolled steel, 15 bucks for 6 of em.

It ended up being the fuel pump. Runnin down the road fine now. thanks all, dp '78/'87 brats

Gentlemen, thanks for commenting...advising. As can be seen there are a few ways to improve the slop. I posted the final comment in the thought to let others not so well versed know what our options are. Sometimes it is just as helpful to average to the lowest denominator of advice,as not all were born subaru mechanical geniuses. dp

Well I finally got around to fixing the slop. I just bought a new 5/16th bolt, and also replaced the bushings , sleeve, and the bushing that fits on the bottom of the shifter. The bushing on the bottom of the shifter was missing so putting one in there made a huge difference. I also have cut a slot on each side of the housing. It is hugely improved. Should have done it a long time ago.

Paul, life is change. Been good having you around. Proud owner of two brats, the first and last ('78 and '87) dp

87 brat Well I am back to fixing the sloppy shifter. Can't get reverse... MY last fix involved using a bolt with brass ferriles (sp?) as washers. I had to use a cutting wheel to get the bolt out as the ferrile was stuck in the thread of the bolt. General Disorder posted a thread a while ago saying he tapped a thread into the hole and threaded a bolt thru and a nut as well to finish it off. Have any of you tried that and how has it turned out? thanks.dp

I went out there today and they CAN get it. Don't really know who or what but alls well that ends well. Yeah I have dealt with Ed and he does as well as he can with the limited source of resources he has. I don't think Lamb passed over much for to them when they changed hands. thanks,dp ps gd you have a pm on another subject matter from me.

I had the brat in the shop and had the mechanic look into it. That's what they told him. Our local dealer could care less about old subys.

Where are you getting your kits from? My local dealer doesn't have one. I saw the gasket kit on ebay, don't know if it includes the o ring. thanks dp

It's a good way to get to know the front end. You also might get into doing your brakes too.

I am pricing a new fuel pump for the '87 brat. Auto Zone and Checker both carry Air Tech for 55 bucks. Napa has a Carter for 95 dollars. Is Carter worth twice as much? Or should I sit it out for a suby pump from Fuji? Thanks, dp.

windshield washer spray nozzle. They weren't even close to hittiing where they should. Just took a flat screwdriver and pryed them back into position. Nice cheap easy fix. dp

'87 brat. I too am seeing alot of oil in the air filter housing. Thought I'd see how the pvc valve was doing. Looked in the manuel, but everything I read says the valve is connected with a clamp on a big rubber hose. I think I have located the valve, left of the egr and threaded into the manifold at a 45 degree angle. But mine is hard piped with a metal tube. Also has a metal shield around it. Any thoughts, thanks. dp

Gotta love the gear oil smell. I never would have thought it came from that. We should have a thread on suby only smells.

Well I finally did my due diligence. Went to the parts store and priced an ignitor, very pricey. But Napa had a machine to test one. Mine is still good. So back to the drawing board. Hopefully next time it dies I'll have someone aboard who can help me do some of the testing to see if the coil is sparking and I am getting gas down the throat. Just another note on identifying the ignitor. The manuel calls it a pickup coil. Also tells how to remove the reluctor so to acess the ignitor (pickup coil). Just pry the reluctor off the shaft with two flat head screwdrivers. The last time the brat was failing it took me five stalls and starts to get it back home. (across town, geeze!). I did notice my dist. cap and rotor were long in the tooth, so will replace them. I am reposting this to continue the effort of completing and following up on threads. Thanks, dp