Flowmastered87GL

By the way my accounting program that I made for my project cars says that timing belts should cost $54.52 for the pair (without tax... we dont have it here) However... when you are in there... check the main seal, cam seals, oil pump seals and water pump seals.

no kidding... $300 for the "parts" car with a blown head gasket, plus $400 for the other one

I never understood how this crap could hold up from a CAN, but the stuff I am putting on my brat comes from a GALLON paint can.... it actually has rubber chunks and stuff in it, stuff like that CANT fit out an aerosol nozzle... so at LEAST roll on a herculiner... I got mine for like $60 for a gallon PLUS 2 rollers AND a brush

IF my car used a trip computer... I could never stick it down there (in front of the shifter, below the stereo AND ashtray...) that space is good for so much extra parts storage: current inventory: Brand spanking new EA82 radiator petcock and the fasterners to attach an EA82 black rubber chin spoiler

I say rip off... I can get 2 86 subarus here in portland, both pretty much rustless for $700 for BOTH

I am so stoked... my 88 GL wagon that I bought for WAY less that it was worth (needed a head gasket and "rear end work") is all done.... I did a total engine reseal and Jason (Baja) took a look at the rear end and all the noise in the rear (which I figured was a CV joint or the rear diff, or a wheel bearing acting up) turned out to be a loose axle nut Way to earn your $100 Jason So, Richie... I wont be needing that CV joint (thank god) So the 88 is now spoken for... just needs a little interior tweaking (new power window switch) then it goes to a new home :-) Down to 3 Subarus now.... I am having withdrawls already

I have only had my carb ice up ONCE in a year of driving... and a swift flooring of the car fixed that

This is what I did Brian (on my 87 wagon that I brought to Johns place) Cut the shifter linkage 2 inches, then thread the linkage on the remaining metal part with a 1.25 pitch die. Basically I used just as little of the metal AFTER the bend in the rod as i needed to have the knob fit on. using a shorter knob helps quite a bit too. (my brat is using my old 87 GL knob and it feels like driving an old school 1 ton chevy cause the stroke is so long) anyway, EA82 how to cut and rethread the linkage is here: My "short LENGTH" shifter Oh, and I know the page says 1.75 inches, but it was really 2 inches... I fixed the shifter later and chopped off that extra 1/4 inch cause the boot wasnt staying on the knob.... now it is since I chopped that extra bit off

I can give you a pic of my webered car, thats about it.... The file size is too big though Not that it would help though... I have a vac line going from the passenger side of the intake to the climate control system, a vac line going from the center to the weber, and one going from the drivers side to the disty... then of course the brake booster line...

Hmmm where from in Oregon? My wagon could use a basket on the roof once it becomes and off roader in 50K or so He he, duh, I didnt notice it came from Tony due to... :drunk:

Sounds kinda like the ~92 Legacy LS I was behind on the freeway today... all 4 air struts were deflated... that thing bounced worse than a civic with the coils cut It kinda looked cool in a way though, I bet on a REALLY smooth surface it handled really good

I guess we'll find out once I start delivering pizzas and rack up the mileage. 300K here I come

They are worth a decent amount if in good shape as they are pretty rare.... $100+ I'd say

I bet the one in my 87 GL was on longer... if they do indeed come on at 60K, then the previous owner (I belive the 2nd owner) had it on there from 60K all the way to 215K (when I bought the car) When I got it, it still had the black tape residue, but the dealer had fixed the light. If they DO re-occur.... then my light is ready to come on somewhere near 275,900 miles

By the way I saw a totally cherry white STD rolling around The Dalles Oregon today... I swear the driver was a girl I used to go to college with too :cornfuzz:

66K, and 5 + years later my JDM import engine is still holding up... even after afew runs to 7000 RPM Basically if you get a JDM engine its easiest to just use the block and heads you get from them.... dont even try to use the intake manifold of anything on it (wiring, carb) if you want to keep it simple.

I think the only reason they put them on is for easy jump seat access. That would explain why they disappeared in later years too.

Just try to keep 3+ wheels on the ground Rick

I call dibs on the strap handle IF ITS BLUE and has the mounting screw included

But think of the torque possibilities!!

I sent him $40 for the working cover (included shipping) In his last e-mail back to me he said he would send it off with a couple of bucks inside it for all the trouble. To make me totally satisfied it would have to come with a $20 inside it now.

I am still waiting for the arrival of my working blue EA82 wagon cargo cover from BillyC. I e-mailed him back before we migrated (when he showed up on the board for afew days and assured that all the parts would be shipped off) Well I still havn't seen the cargo cover at any of my 3 addresses :boohoo: I tried sending an e-mail over a week ago and have gotten no reply. Anyone else still waiting for stuff??

Hmmm I'll have to try this on my car sometime... my cargo cover just lays there... And since my working cover never came from BillyC... I guess its time to try to fix it :madder:

Nope, too poor, have other things to spend money on... pink martini, food, clutch cable, tuition, "family planning products"

not yet, but my roommates are getting really poor, so it sounds as if I can live here longer than I thought