Flowmastered87GL

Funny you said they werent gates and were maybe cheapo japanese belts. Generally (well in my opinion) timing belt quality from highest to lowest seems to go: Genuine Subaru (Japan) Gates or such (US) Generic (Mexico)

This seems to be the only problem with the PK kits, The instruction step saying to use a big hammer and beat the inner fender where the strut goes is not there. Pull the strut back out. You should see some wear on the black tar undercoat stuff. The wear SHOULD be on a little mound. Beat that mound flat! You should probably lube up the struts up on top too. I had to lube mine after the lift because it took me a year to figure out my clutch issues so my struts got all dirty and crusty. So pull the struts out and hammer away

Regarding the black box. May be part of the HVAC or may be what the parts department told me is the "seatbelt timer" If its on the right side of where the stereo goes in and has a plug going into it you can either.... unplug it and throw it away, or break its tabs off and slide it up somewhere else in the dash. Please make sure that the car operates normally when you unplug it. When I did mine I started the car. Ok good. unplugged it. Started the car... ok good.... throw the stupid box away in my case. Just make sure the seat belt chime turns off and the light goes off after 8 seconds or so. If either one start going all the time there's a problem.

Missing title or branded? On a car this old a brand really doesnt matter too much. Not like its worth much either way. Though if its missing its kind of hard to register it.

Ya all you need in there is a bare intake with a PCV system, carb, fuel lines and thats about it. Really dont need the EGR or Air injection system in my opinion. Ive been running without them on my GL wagon for years with no ill effects (though its never been tested for emissions)

Those are 80's Isuzu Trooper rims. Good thing is they are pretty common so finding a full size matching spare should be a piece of cake.

Both your brats should be EA81. EA81 means its a 1.8 liter flat 4 with pushrods and not timing belts to work the valvetrain. (for reference EA71 is like an 81 but a 1.6 liter and EA82 is 1.8 with timing belts) Parts of the wiring harness may work, but be aware that the 82 SHOULD have a 3rd eye setup and 2 headlights instead of 4. So headlight wiring should be different. The wiring for the carb may be different too. (both my 82's have had carter webers and it seems most other ones have hitachis) I am not saying it wont work, just some differences to be aware of.

Don't tempt me Ed, I already work 7 days a week and still need to finish my green brat, I dont need another one But yet, its so hard to resist a cheap brat

If I didnt have my brat I'd be tempted to buy it, then turn around and stick it in autotrader for $800

Oh... while its out... adjust the lifters! They should be adjusted every now and then. I dont have the procedure here, but I have seen it done before. Doesnt take long. Can be done at the same time as the valve cover gaskets are being done.

Wow, at first I thought that was the car that I got from Ed, fixed up and resold, but its not as it has under 200K on it (and has a GL interior still)

Across the street there is a Legacy LS, a Legacy L and then I have my GL and a Brat. So 4 from street to street (each intersection) Go down afew more in each direction and add on an 81 GL, an 87 GL and a just for kicks... A checker cab (ya its not a subie, but its cool)

Replacing carb: Get a hitachi manifold, a subaru "EA81" weber carb adapter from www.bowwow.com and a weber 32/36 DGEV carb from www.carbsunlimited.com You will gain several HP from the weber swap. PLEASE be careful when you remove the intake manfold. If you are not patient you can break off the intake bolts, especially if they have never been removed before. I broke one on my green brat and I ended up having to remove the head and take it to a shop to get the bolt extracted. With this new carb setup you will not need to change your throttle cable if you do the installation the way I did mine. Some people do it another way and run a longer cable. I will take pictures of "my way" if you want to see it. (welding required to attach linkage for cable to pass through to part that bolts to the carb) A picture is worth 1000 words here.

Welcome back to the EA-series dark side

I MAY make it for an hour or 2 friday night/sat morning or sat night/sun morning. No promises, as I work 9-9 on friday-sat-sunday as of now. If its slow maybe I can leave early. Need to see how this weekend goes first.

If you do decide to change to the weber carb... the good thing is you remove almost all the vac lines. I ended up doing that on my wagon (and other brat)because I was plagued with leaky lines. The bad thing is engineering the throttle linkage. the other bad thing is you need to get a hitachi carb intake manifold. (about $10 on here)

2 ways to handle rust. #1 "Pimp my ride way" Sand and bondo and sand again #2 "Overhaulin way" Sand, cut out all cancer, create new metal panel, weld into place, grind welds, fill any light surface deviations, prime, paint to match. I try to stay as close to #2 as possible, though may dabble in #1 here and there in difficult and seldom seen areas. For example the bobbed tail of my brat is has alot of bondo to make the body line flow rather than custom metal work.

Sad to hear it overheated on you, I hope that the engine faired ok. Since the gaskets are pretty new lets hope so. Dont get me wrong, I love turbos, but its stuff like that that kept happening to my silver 86 turbowagon that made me not really want an EA82T anymore

I want that steering wheel! Way better than the 85-86 or 87 design. ON another note... Brian you appear to have an 88-94 steering wheel in your RX! Is it like an 87.5 or something?

I saw that episode! Thread hijacked :cool: Yellow shag carpet interior... yeah baby! I had a turbowagon that didnt have a working 4WD light... the 4WD certainly worked as it could spin all 4 tires in the gravel really easy. I think it turned out being a loose wire on the tranny that tells the light to come on.

I only "kinda" wanted a lifted forester before. Now I want one! that big too!

Uhhhh are you gonna run the driveshaft out the back (with double reduction) and the CV's in front (only the single internal reduction of the front DR box I think) You need to find a way to have the double low range work for both ends of the car. Using the nissan setup with 2 subie rear diffs makes sense because everything passes through the nissan case and goes to the diffs from there. I like your idea, just find a way to connect the front diff to both DR boxes and it could work?

Maybe something with the float in the carb could be causing issues? Maybe its set wrong? I dont think adjusting the idle will fix the problem permanantly or properly, but it will make it easier to drive til you get to the bottom of it. Sorry little things are popping up. It was good to me, though now that I think of it, I did carry a screwdriver with me when I delivered pizza. so ya turn up the idle 1/4 turn or maybe a bit more. Just see what happens. Write down what you do so you can turn it back later.

There is a screw that you can turn to raise the idle a bit. When I bought it the idle was like 2000, I turned it down to pass emissions, then turned it up a bit. May have to tighten the screw a bit more. I knew I forgot something (to send up with you) I have the old carb out of my old brat (died when cold, but ran great warm... like after afew blocks of driving) probably not worth shipping up though. I really dont see this car needing a new carb after it gave me faithful service for the months that I had it. The carb really should be sound on the car considering passing emissions and its great MPG that you got. For reference if anyone asks, it has the carter weber carb, not the Hitachi carb. If you ever decide to make the performance jump, a weber 32/36 DGEV can be fitted. I can give you pics of the green brats setup so you see how to hook all the stuff up (especially the throttle linkage)

If the light isnt lighting... A: you arent making boost (very bad) B: A wire that makes the light come on popped off or the light burned out. C: The vac line that senses the boost pressure popped off.