Flowmastered87GL

Hey it can have good rally use. If you are supposed to drive from point A to B in 2.5 hours... set the clock for 2.5 hours... then hope it beeps when you cross the finish line My 86 GL-10 would have the rev limiter beep sometimes when I started the car... the dash would read 9900 for a second, it beeped, then went down to the proper number. My guess is its either that or the alarm.

I think you can get away with the "tint" since the windows are not on the front. I guess it varies state to state though. Alot of rally cars use lexan windows. I say go for it.

Mine are shot too. I got 320K miles out of them at least. I agree that the problem is from the arms that come back off the suspension arm to the point on the frame rail kinda by the tranny mounts. The rod bushings... whatever the rod may be called. I'm gonna try to get a set from SOA so I can have em whip out the parts book and point at them and say THOSE! I'm probably gonna have mine professionally installed, or at least have the installation supervised by a pro as I dont really have the tools or the lift to do it efficiently.

My lift also came with an extender bar. Basically its a big slab of steel that bolts in where the pitch stopper used to bolt to the bell housing. It moves that hole up 3-4 inches so the pitch stopper can maintain its stock geometry. All PK kits have this bracket. Unsure about other makes.

Well I figured it out. I poked around the dash, everything was good under there. I took apart the drivers side headlight mount and found it was not bolted in properly. I bolted it in properly. Took out the headlight and shook it, it rattled, something in there was bad. So, I got a new GE headlamp unit. Intalled it, crossed my fingers, prayed..... Fixed the problem So the culpret was a combination of a bad bulb and a missing nut on the mounting frame.

If you can only get into gear with the car turned off try tightening the clutch cable afew turns. If you can get it moving then the clutch probably isnt slipping. During my clutch issues with the brat ive seen both extremes. Bad flywheel let the car only move 0.5 MPH because it slipped so bad... but I could get into any gear at any time. Then I put it all back together with the cable too loose. Couldnt get into any gear unless I turned it off.

Sweet! I wonder what kind of #'s they can put out? if they have working models anyway...

I have 4 of them on my car with center caps, lugs and chrome valve stems. Nice rims, give you a slightly wider offset than stock. something to be aware of if you lower the car.

Any more ideas? I know we have some electrical engineers and rocket scientists on here. Dont let a Finance degree person figure it out

Ya I probably will send him some pics or instructions. Maybe make a little paint shop drawing of it using some bolts and body seams as reference points. Once under there the little mountain of steel you have to level is pretty obvious.

I wanted to come but had 2 previous (more important) engagements. #1, getting a new/better job. #2 Helping part out a FWD sedan. Not sure if the GL woulda held up as I seemed to break something every race last year and this year the control rod bushings at toast. A pothole makes for some very loud banging under the car. (dont worry only 1 more week of pizza then I can go easy on it) My new job of selling cars wont let me out for rallycrosses much But... maybe if I ask enough in advance I can get like half the day off.

So are you good for 1 years or 2? Then you have to go through it all again?

I took em, they are on the camera. I will try to write up an article for the USRM manual eventually after I photoshop them with arrows pointing at where I hammered. Took the car out, no more banging form the coil springs rubbing on the body. Found out that one of the struts wasnt turning well with the knuckle so I had to PB blaster it. All is good now though (other than the fact I need to BFH the fenders still to fit the BIG tires)

You mean maybe replace the headlamp unit? I am considering that as when I pulled one of the fuses I remember I could get the drivers light to BARELY glow. Another thing to note. I just replaced the rubber steering shaft coupler and had to drop the column to do so. So I will crawl under there and check wires for chafing and connection strength.

So.... when are you gonna stick some 27" mudders under there?

Well. I am 90% sure of getting a new job in a week or so. Selling Kia's Dont worry, I still plan to get a Baja (not a Kia) for my everyday driver. Anyway, if anyone wants to meet me, or get any parts from me I will still be attending, it will just be brief. Measured in hours, not days like I had hoped But I'll still be there. Maybe if I am lucky they will let me out early. Come later if I find that I wont be able to enter the car show I will happily donate the $11 I spent for my entry to someone needy/poor/whatever. - Corky I will let you know when its closer to the show if I will go through with the donation or not I'm not giving away my beer glasses though

my rule of thumb (as I have broken 2 timing belts in my car (with covers so they died of natural causes)) Japanese made (OEM) WOnderful American made (good year or something) PRetty darn good, should get you 60K at least MExican made (awful, broke in like 50K) So make sure they are made in the USA or better

Well I fixed 1 problem on the green lifted brat and other popped up. When I turned on the headlights to drive it around the block the high-beam light came on. The switch was on low. I turned on the high beams and them seemed to work ok. Well drove it around the block anyway because nothing was smoking Got it back in the garage and found afew interesting things: #1 Some duct tape on one of the headlight wires. (I stripped it off and used the proper electical tape to re-insulate it) #2 One of the headlights fuses was VERY HOT and was kind of bent. I replaced it to be safe. #3 The beam light ONLY DOES NOT come on (on low beam) when I pull the fuse to the right (passenger) headlight. #4 I have 2 brats. On this brat when I turn on the lights I hear a click under the hood (good thats what the good brat does) and ALSO a click in the glovebox (bad as the good brat only does that when I hit the high beams) #5 It used to work just fine, though I havnt driven it at night for almost a year. #6 On the good brat I can see a distinctive CHANGE in which beams are being used when I go from low to high. A little square on the wall moves from low to high. On the malfunctioning brat it seems that one beam is on low, and a second one kicks on ALSO on high. At this point because of the clicking in the dash when it shouldnt be (according to the other brat) that either the headlight switch is bad, the bright/turn signal switch is bad, or the high-beam relay under the glovebox is bad. I am guessing either the turn signal switch or the relay. Other thoughts? Experiences? This is an 82 brat with the single big square headlight on each side, NOT the quad lights.

Funny... I have the seats in, the passenger one is done but the drivers one is only in with 2 bolts still To remove the old stuff: Impact screwdriver all the way. It made it SO easy! To fit them in... what I found easiest is to use the stock brat rails on the GL-10 seats. You need to weld on the tab that pivots on the height adjuster. Pretty easy though. Then after that what I did on mine is bolt down 2 of the holes in 1 rail. Then use steel scrap to make tabs to bolt to the floor, then weld do the seat bracket where the bolts used to go through. Much easier to weld it nice and square (for me anyway) with the seat in the car where you want it. I did have to trim back the door sill molding though

I am hammering the inner fenders of my 82 Brat this weekend to make the struts not bang and creak when turning and before I put everything back together I was wondering if anyone wants me to snap pictures of where to pound (before and after) so that the strut/spring no longer rubs the fender (with the PK Davis 3/3 kit) I will be re-assembling Sunday afternoon so if you even think you MIGHT want pics... let me know and I will drag the camera outside.

Ya I remember seeing that when I researched buying my 87 GL back in uhhhh like 1997 or so. The dealer told me the old owner had put in a new engine so I thought I was dodging the black dot. Hmmmm what have I replaced? Engine, Clutch, Driveshaft, CV's, Brakes (many times), Carb (many times), Tires cause the alignment doesnt last long, radiator, all the hoses!, wheel bearings, entire rear suspension assy, exhaust (twice). The sad part was the engine died like 1000 miles after I got the car... and that was like 500 miles after we paid to have new timing belts installed because the old ones broke on me. Ya if you dont keep up on em they are trouble. now that I understand the car fully, its more relible, it just needs new suspension bushings because it has so many miles on it. I think to date I have spent well over $7000 including the price of the car ($2700) to keep this car running. Its a great car though

I think the rear diff should hold up just fine as long as you arent roasting just one tire. Datsun 510 guys run subie diffs in the rear all the time and thats a RWD car. Just dont spend all day buring off the right rear, and then hit a high traction area... you may break something then. Drive normal or maybe a little spirited and you should be fine. I still want to RWD one of my brats someday.

Man I need to get back in the action. I havnt had a wheel lift off the ground since WCSS3 (4 years ago) Looks fun

In the ice storm we had this winter, I was one of the few cars on the roads. Running mostly 4 LO in 1st and 2nd gear... maybe 3rd on a nice sanded road. Keep in mind EVERYTHING was ice. Brakes were useless as it made the car tend to slide. Compression braking in low range kept the car nice and straight all the way down to 2 MPH or so when I could apply the brakes safely to stop. So for max control, use 4Lo To have fun in a parking lot use 4 hi For rallycross, use 4 Lo if possible (as a change from 3 lo to 2 lo is probably easier on the tranny than 2 hi to 1 hi) Well on a 320K tranny it sure is

Your "average" 6 lug wheel will fit. Chevy, Toyota, Mazda, Nissan and so on 6 lug systems work.