Flowmastered87GL

I have a PK davis lift on my brat also, At the time of installation I knew nothing about suspension systems. I installed it mostly myself with a little outside help for the big stuff. Took me a while though (cause I had rusty bolts to deal with)

The knob looks toyota-ish but the center of it looks like something else. :-\

I talked with him on NASIOC a bit. From our conversation he at least says he feels bad about doing what he did. Will we get out money back? Eh maybe, maybe not, but he at least acknowledged that he still owed me a cargo cover or money. Did he make a wrong choice? Yes Will he choose to fix it? I hope he does someday, but its gonna be expensive to pay everyone back. If I ever hear of him willing the lottery or something, I'm asking for my $40 for sure though Otherwise.... I just hope someday down the road... hell maybe 2 years.... that $40 shows up in my mail

Don't forget there is beer and cards for after dark once the cars arent being driven anymore

Since when did brats come with a factory 5 speed??

Mine seem to die all sorts of ways. The first one died by way of the voltage regulator going out in a remote area.... my RPM's determined the volts. They ranged from 10 to like 18 at 5000 RPM or so. The next one had the shaft/bearings wear out 2 days after getting it The next one undercharged ditto ditto ditto ya... Ive used alot of alternators. I love the lifetime warranty at Autozone

I hear the bolts are hard to get off. But Richie has a lift and impact gun... may make sort work of it

You know, it does kind of sound like what my 86 GL did when the carb was dumping fuel. I would have to go with skip on this one. It would run for afew minutes, I'd drive it around the parking lot then it would just die. I had to take the air cleaner off and raise the idle to limp it 15 miles to my new house when I moved. So ya if you see a little waterfall of fuel going in the carb.... either swap the carb or clean/rebuild it. (I swapped in a low mileage used one for like $25 )

Glad to hear you have fixed them before... now how hard was it?? Pretty easy 1-2 hour job or like 8 hours of back breaking labor? (for the first timer)

I agree with the aluminum concept... I'll spend it on beer

If I have ok luck (keep my current job) I will be there most of friday, saturday, sunday. if I have a little better luck I will get my new job (selling Kia's ) and maybe head up after work Friday, spend all day Saturday there and then come back early Sunday morning. If I have great luck, they will give me the weekend off. Though it IS retail and I would be the fresh meat there, so I wouldnt have any seniority. I guess what happens, happens. Worst case I will come up after work one day, hang out for afew hours and drive right back the same night.

To answer your kind of question, yes they are the ones at the rears of the wheel wells kind of by the frame rail. Ya my car HATES to drive straight and I get all kinds of wheel scrub type tire wear... 70,000 mile tires tend to last like 40K if that on the right front as that bushing seems to be the worst. I will price new ones... though I may grab them off the parts car just in case they cost an arm and a leg. I get all sorts of fun knocking noises off the front suspension when I pull out of driveways or go over speed bumps. I think driving on the dilapadated (sp?) roads of Milwaukie Oregon for 100 miles per day is taking its toll

When I was at the tire store today I got to watch the guys pull my car into the bay from the little window in the waiting area... I got to watch my front wheels kinda move when they went from forward to reverse (one guy saw something funny, I saw it too, the whole suspension arm is kind of moving front to rear) I belive both fronts are doing this though I only witnessed the passenger side. What they say is wrong: The rubber bushings that hold the rods that go up to the suspension arm are shot. I think they are called the control rod bushings? The bushings ARE original and have nearly 320K on them Now: I am parting out a FWD sedan on Sunday hopefully. Would I be best to grab the low mileage used bushings off that to save costs or should I buy some new poly bushings? Or just leave it and part out the car instead of sell it in afew months? Keep in mind this is a $750 car at best when selling time comes, but I really love it and dont wanna see it scrapped. I'd rather let someone else enjoy it and see it hit 400K. Are used bushings going to be decent are they just going to fall apart? From a cost point the used ones would be nice, but if they go out in a year then they may not be worth it and then the buyer would be stuck with re-doing the suspension.

Interesting update: Had to get 2 new tires today (one bald and another had a razor blade in it :-\ ) Anyway, the right front axle nut was loose AGAIN! (I snuck in the bay at Les Schwab and checked it when the wheels were off.) I asked them to snug it up for me. I'm going to replace the conical washers on it and see if that helps. Will keep updating as this problem progresses.

Hmmm so you can get the the CV to move on the stubs so thats good, it means they arent fused together. I had that happen on my GL so I just scrapped the whole rear CV with the rear drums and old trailing arms when I converted to a sway bar and rear disks. If its moving, try first unbolting the sway bar. IF that doesnt give enough clearance maybe unbolt the shock?

Ya I've heard about that before Look muddy without getting dirty

Ive done head gaskets on an EA81, EA82-T and like 4 EA82's and never used sealant on any of their head gaskets. Never had a leak either. If it was one of those silver colored gaskets it should have been fine naked. (no sealant)

Just having it dance because if I had bad taste I COULD fit them on if I wanted to... they wouldnt fit on most stock subes because the wheel wells are too small. Oh, and I love using smileys too

make sure to soak em a long time in motor oil before you install them. Otherwise they will tap like crazy. (they should NOT compress by hand when fully pumped up with oil)

I'm diggin the rake.... I woulda got some tires of those profile for my street brat but they werent on sale like the stock size ones were... hell I dont even know if they had them in the store :-\ Maybe the NEXT brat will get some nice sticky street meats.

Had I gone 6 lug instead of 4 lug I bet I could fit some 20" spinners on my camo green lifted brat No I would NEVER do that.... may be good for a laugh though if I had a friend with a set just to install em and take afew pictures.

Or... you can do what lumpycam did and adapt EA82 running gear under the car. Just fab it / integrate it into the lift kit. Much simpler suspension to work with.

Just be careful in Idaho

I would let it go because I can get one of a similar year (gen 2 justy) FWD, already a 5 speed with a blown engine + a replacement engine for like $300 or something. It will need seals and timing belts and such for the new engine, but still easier than swapping in a 5 speed. If you want to know more about it PM me.

FWD or 4WD? If its 4WD I say go for it. Its the CVT most likely, so be prepared to convert it to a 5 speed.