Flowmastered87GL

Looks like the car is in New Zealand... most likely a 2.0

I use Castrol 10W30 in EJ cars and 20W50 in EA cars I try to stick to genuine subaru filters, I try to avoid Fram at all cost as I belive they are little more than cardboard inside. I also heard its bad to keep changing your oil brand as the engine can become accustomed to a certain type of oil. So going castrol, cheap stuff, chevron.... may protect a bit less

Hmmm mine are just normal 10 mm or 12 mm head bolts. Search through your bolt can I bet you can find some that fit. I am willing to bet they are 1.25 pitch as most subaru bolts seem to be. I think the ones that hold everything together are about 1 inch long at the longest.

Go back and fake interest in it and test drive it to see what they fixed

Hmmmm I never really realized it, but look at a picture of a Scion tC The wheelbase and such (in perportion to the car) look very similar.

When the nut was loose it was probably the hub making the noise. Mine did the same thing, but I didnt catch it soon enough because I have center caps so I cant see the castle nuts without taking off the wheels... so I ended up stripping a hub. I plan to go at it with an impact gun soon to make sure everything is still snug from the repair. As to WHY it happened? Maybe the wheel bearings werent seated properly and then finally popped in making the castle nut now become loose. Have you been running in 4WD on dry pavement? I had here and there and thats probably why my hub bit the dust.

Also be aware of this... my rally tires which are mounted on 85-94 wagon wheels (EA82 style) will NOT fit on a generation one wagon... that may or may not hold true for a brat. They rubbed on the rear trailing arm. The gen 2 rims/ Ea81 style will fit however (early 80's) Often times a production date is cast in the rim. My full size spare for example has 12/85 stamped in it.

Cam tower O-rings. I belive that the OEM ones are re-inforced. some aftermarket ones are not and lead to earlier than normal oil leaks. I believe in only getting factory spark plugs after blowing up an NGK in my car (basically the same part, but made in the US instead of japan)

I want!!! Hmmmm now looks like I need a baja, a gen 2 brat for rally/street and a gen 1 brat for trail use

your fans must be in bad shape or something.... the only fan I can hear is on my lifted 82 brat. Cant hear it on my GL or my street brat. I remember my moms old tercel had a really loud fan though. Maybe your fans are slightly out of balance or something... :-\ A loud exhaust will help to cover it up though

I ran into problems running a DGV series carb on my EA82 with PS. It can be done but it takes alot of tinkering. Generally its easier to run the reverse model... its the DFV series... with electric choke its known as the DFEV. It lets you keep the throttle linkage pretty close to stock and doesnt bother the power steering or spare tire at all. PM me if you want me to take some pictures or something for you of my setup. My car is not lifted, but that really shouldnt change much.

SWEET! Its so cheap AND more durable. I'll look into it tomorrow

Well if you want to make your car a rocket, it will either take another engine, (transplant) which will most likely take some fab work. There adapter plates and stuff out there and they do work well, but you still need to make sure you have all the wiring harness and everything from the donor car. Another option is to rebuild your current engine and put in a hot camshaft. Maybe you can up it from 76 or so HP up to around 125 or more! a Weber 32/36 carb will give more power too. If the engine has good compression right now, I would suggest freeing up the exhaust and installing the weber carb for now. When you can save up some money try either swapping in another drivetrain, or rebuild the engine. IF you are feeling adventurous maybe buy a wrecked WRX and take all its goodies and stick em in your car. For the least amount of fab though, just stick with a carb and exhaust, the move up... this car will never be a drag racer, though its a hell of a rally car.

ya mine is flexing alot too... im sure its under more stress than normal because its a bit harder to turn the wheel because the struts are kinda rubbing on the fenders still (need to BFH em still as I forgot it when I inserted the lift) I'll try the dealer first. Failing that I will try autozone. Do you know what I need to ask for at autozone for the part? Like a steering rack coupler? or some other name?

Kinda rusty by oregon standards, but hey its free That scratch/dent will buff out

Well my lifted 82 brat runs and drives again! 2 questions. #1 Can I get a new rubber circle piece that bolts between the steering rack and the steering extention that PK davis sent me? The rack is good and the extention is good. But the rubber is kind of old and I am afraid its gonna tear and crack and my steering is gonna go bye bye! My days off dont really fit that well with the Suby parts department schedule so I thought I would ask here first. Anyone have a really good used replacement to sell? #2 I dont have reverse in 4lo but I have it in 4 hi. From doing a search it looks like I just need to adjust some linkages. Does the adjustment have to be done under the car or under the console area? (I assume under the car, but I figured I'd check as I am unsure if I need to mess with the main shifter or the 4WD one)

Hmmm some of those obstacles look fun... I wonder how far the GL can make it in there with Hakki's on it I'll arrange for the time off if I maintain my current job, if I get a new job, well I'll let them know after I'm hired that I have a "reunion weekend" Unsure if the wife is coming, but its going on the calendar and we are gonna try to both make it.

For the record pizza magnets DO scratch the paint after a while... My roof has scratches and paint chips. To prevent scratches, try covering the magnet with 1 layer of packing tape. It will slightly decrease its magnetic ablities, but I dont think the antenna has enough drag (compared to a pizza topper) for it to matter. Hmmm maybe I should hook the power wires on my CB back up, they corroded off a year+ ago

Noises before it failed... YES! tons of em. Both sides have been replaced, still have some noise. Do I run 4WD on the pavement... yes, but generally in a straight line, or when pulling out into traffic in the rain from a hill (very easy to spin tires there, need 4WD go get moving) 100,000 + miles of me driving the car, rallycrossing, drag racing ect probably just took its toll. For now the car is good, gonna check it shortly, maybe even use an air wrench soon to make sure everything is good and tight. Maybe even have Richie to a full suspension inspection so a trained eye can make sure everything else under there is ok.

ahhh the 180 stat explains alot of it... I used to run one of those. Same with the oil, thinner than my oil and needs to be changed, I notice my readings change alot when I change the oil

The car: 1987 GL 4WD Wagon, EA82. 318,000+ miles, original hubs and suspension junk. Condition at time of failure: New CV's (less than 1 year old) Junky brakes, pads are ok, but e-brake sticks if applied and rotors are warped. Basically what happened is I went to pull out of the parking lot at work and the car didnt move in 2WD, found out a CV was spinning but the car was going nowhere. So... limped it home in 4WD. Took everything apart, sure enough ALL the splines in the right front hub are gone! I was able to remove the axle nut on the passenger side (after taking out the cotter pin) with very little effort, it was like finger tight. Now... with the pin in there, how could it get so loose? Is it possible that when I did the CV's I didnt tighten it right or something? The washers WERE installed correctly and were approved by a second person as being right. Could the horrible state of the brakes have caused this somehow? Everything is replaced and works good now (only took like 3 hours) and I saved the extra good hub just in case. But I want to make sure this doesnt happen again. I plan to check the axle nuts in 3000 miles just to make sure its all staying together. So... any guesses as to why this stripped out? Was it just the hubs time?

Hmmm 2 interesting things: #1 Under boost the temp is still pretty darn low #2 The oil pressure seems lower than in what most of my cars are. Then again I run 20W50 and you probably run 10W30? Nice to see 300 K Welcome to the club (I have 318K)

If anyone needs the EA81 skid plate spacer, I have an extra one (brand new with all its bolts) Pay me shipping and its yours

I'll keep an eye out at work / in the nighborhood.

THe reason the 9-6 (not 9-7, sorry I get em confused) will not have a 3rd row seat: Safety. Its a saab! So it has to be safe. The rear seats apparently are in part of the rear crumple zone. Do you want your kids sitting in the crumple zone? Probably not if you are a safety conscious saab owner. If you want a 3 row saab get a wrecked suby and have them install a saab clip on the front instead of replacement subaru parts (www.franticfour.com did that with a 2002 WRX, kind of.... its got a 2004 front now)