Flowmastered87GL

If I recall my problem has always been the #2 cylinder. :-\

I gotta say.... 315,800 miles is not a bad run for an original driveshaft and u-joints thats probably never EVER been serviced in its life. Been off roading, banged over rocks, 4WD launched many MANY times, rallycrossed.... delivered pizza for 18+ months... Well today on the way to Snohomish, the GL started shaking really REALLY bad. We were on I-5 going north in the Olympia area. For those who dont know Mark / XSNRG lives there... so we limped along at 75 for a while til we got to his exit... kinda shaking a bit, but drivable at 75, but NO other speeds... Got off, shook like mad while slowing down to the stopsign. Limped it to Mark's house to see if he had a driveshaft or 5 speed DR we could toss in the car to maybe install when we got back to Portland (thought the car would survive the trip since it seemed ok at 75) No tranny, but he had one driveshaft. So I bought it. We decided to check under the car. What do we find? The rearmost U-joint that bolts to the rear diff was near ready to fall off! It was WAY WAY WAY off center (causing the crazy vibration) Pretty scary really, 10 more miles down the road and it may have blown up! Pictures will be coming soon... needless to say Mark changed it right there in the driveway for me... I OWE YOU BIG buddy! We made the trip without further incident! What I previously thought was my transfer case going out turned out to be just a toasted U-joint.... a heck of a lot simpler and cheaper than a tranny swap thats for sure!

Ok starting with the transmission. On my car I can run in and out of low range all day. Generally I dont shift from high range to low range unless I am going 10 MPH or less. I shift out of it at up to like 45 or so though. While keeping the car IN low range I can slam through all 5 gears just as easy as being in front wheel drive mode. If you are having issues getting in and out of 4WD... make sure your tires are all inflated equally, worn equally and sized and typed equally. Regaring the carpet, probably easier just to replace it. Just pull the plugs out of the back (sounds like they have already popped out) then take off the little metal strips on the backs of the folding seats. The carpet should come out just like that... maybe you could also elongate the holes up in front and use that slack to make the carpet fit right. Or just get a replacement piece from the junkyard for like a buck or 2. My mom used to have an old tercel... the 3AC engine or something like that had around 64HP I think... you should have about 90, though the car IS heavier I think (the suby) My hatch struts suck on cold days... but hold ok on warm days... to change em ya its easiest just to unbolt them all from the hatch and car and swap a good set from a junked car. They cost an arm and a leg from a parts store! (like over $100 each I think) You can sometimes find em on here for $5 each plus shipping. I dont have an answer on teh rear window Regarding 12 volt power I ran the wires for my CB through a hole in the firewall where the AC drip tube goes (had to yank carpet to get to it) and ran them straight to the battery with an inline fuse for safety.

Most likely... the mechanic accidentally unplugged something that kicks on the turbo light when he was doing the EGR solenoid. I belive they are near the same area of the intake. Regarding where the scissors jack goes... It goes to the LEFT of the smugglers box under the little wooden cover. The jack handle goes in there too if you can believe it. The should be little black clips to hold the handle from moving around. I believe that the feet of the jack point toward the outside of the car, and the little loop that you turn to raise it points towards the rear of the car. I would have to look at my GL to be sure, but I am pretty confident thats how it fits.

I remember when Subiegal got her's I wanted a set, but I dont know if they would fly in the house In the basement or garage on the other hand

Late happy 5th! The board wouldnt be the same without you (I still remember your brief absence)

I do remember them saying "with what appear to be truck tires" about Zap's car

I say an etched pint is my vote. No preference really on the logo. Want a name on mine and Shannons of course. Just make sure the glass is stout enough that the etching wont weaken it too much.

basically what happens is the check clears MOST of the banks... so you think it clears, but when it reaches the fed it comes up fake or something like that and then they have to remove the money back out of your account... the money that you sent to the shippers (REAL money!) is gone too! So you are out a car AND shipping money.

so.... you have an 88 (spfi) car with an 87 (carbed engine?) I'm sure the fuel system is confused in all sorts of ways! I have rebuilt many of these cars, but unfortunately dont know the particulars of what could be causing your problems. If it really IS an 88 personally I would say revert EVERYTHING back to 1988 stock form... fuel injection and all and I bet most problems will go away regarding power and drivablility.

Ehhh I dont know if a 185/80 will fit... remember my white 88 wagon Craig? That thing sat at least an inch higher than my 87 with 185/70's though it may have been the struts too. Only one way to find out though... try cramming it in there. May have to be deflated though... I like that idea... keep it at like 10 PSI so you can air it up faster than just atmospheric pressure.

I would go with an 88-89 GL also. If you are fine with carbs, I think mudrat has an 86... probably what he e-mailed you about... he builds VERY capable cars and could pretty much lift it to your tastes (2-12") transfer case, or just the stock hi-lo tranny.... Why we suggest the 88-89 over the 90-94. THe 90-94 known as the Loyale as opposed to the DL/GL (base / nicer versions) is the 88-89 has MUCH more luxury stuff in them... nicer interiors map lights a foot rest next to the clutch, better center console area, stock dual range tranny (no swap needed) and no annoying automatic seatbelts. an 88-94 will all be about as reliable as each other depending on its maintenance history. If you are ok with a carb, I am personally, then an 85-87 would suit fine too. I have an 87 GL with almost 315K on it. New engine, but everything else is old... its got squeaks and rattles and the 4WD system in the tranny is starting to get noisy, but it still goes anywhere just about... only got stuck once... at a subaru show... that was embarassing I drive my car about 35,000 miles per year of HARD pizza delivery driving and the car has held up decently over the past 18 months. Keep timing belts in them and oil and coolant and they will last forever. Oh and if you want it easier to drive with the big tires try to get power steering... However... almost all of these suffer from power steering fluild leaks... I have to top mine off each oil change (use ATF) So for reliablilty sometimes its nice not to have... just depends on what you can find. John/Mudrat's sounds pretty nice though.

My CB has an internal SWR calibration. You put the switch to CAL Hit the button on the mic Then turn the knob til the pointer on the guage is on the little CAL arrow. Then relase and put it back on AM or side band or whatever and you are set.

And John hasnt jumped on the task of doing this?? How about a 5 speed DR SVX

Being that its a convertible with no roof structure to stiffen it up... I personally would not deem it safe to drive with cancer. Maybe you could buy a mint coupe carcass and with some cutting and welding transfer all the convertible components over to it???

I believe "cut out flares" is the term? Those would rock if someone could make em for a baja!

How hard would it be to... Take a 1st gen legacy with a blown 4EAT lift it a bit and convert it to manual with a 5 speed DR (non LSD) I'd probably roll one of those around (and you can get gen 1 legacies with bad AT's REALLY cheap!)

I have a nice setup in my car... its a cobra 148 NW ST, I ran 18 feet of coax into the dash, in a little loop then up to the big steel whip thats 8.5 feet long... its tied back military style with parachute cord (like you see on humvees) Works pretty well when the power cables are hooked up

Hmmm nice blue. Same blue I have on my GL's intake and valve covers. Ditto with my 82 off roader brat.

Ya I think mine had been original too. Now I have an extra multipack of fuses in the glove box just in case.

where in the northwest are you? if you are in Portland or Vancouver "Richierich" off this board runs a subaru shop in NE portland (off NE 82nd) www.fixmysuby.com is his website address, but its still kind of under construction. There is an e-mail link on the page however. The address on that page is out of date as they just moved the shop to 82nd, but the phone # should still be right. Funny you said you are a clueless car chick... thats my wifes login name My guess on diagnosis... either you are losing fluid, OR, your exhaust is restricted confusing the computer OR the rock yanked some plugs, possibly unplugging the AT fluid temp sensor and the O2 sensor (causing the AT light and the CEL)

Andrew, if it comes to having to get a motor... http://www.franticfour.com/garage.html This is where I bought the 1998 black impreza that I used to have from too. maybe without some of the extras like clutch and stuff you could get it for $350? I could pick it up for you if you wanted and get it down to portland at least.

Mine blew once... I think it was back at around 305K... it was just time for the old fuse to finally go. May have been related to my choke wire coming off my carb and shorting on something.... but yours if EFI, so it doesnt have one. In my case a new fuse and re-soldering the wire fixed it. So... just check for any pinched or cut wires.

Hmmm not my cup of tea, but hey its your car. Be unique :cool:

Hmmm since they dont make it anymore... Replica time!!!