Flowmastered87GL

Hmmm I'll trade you the clutch in my 82 brat... it wont Engage... the clutch slips and slips but the car never moves

Uhhh I'll be there... I'll be the one in the tux with the yellow vest and yellow tie

I belive that the 84 TO bearing wont fit the pilot shaft of the 82 tranny... it needs a sleeve machined for it. At this point since I am running the 82 clutch and I KNOW its bottomed out on the pilot shaft... I figure it has to be the flywheel/disk/pressure plate setup.

took me like 1.5 hours on my 87 GL... (my fingers arent that nimble and climbing under the dash isnt that fun cause I'm like 6 foot, 240. I ended up pulling the pedal off its pivot to make it easier... not sure if it made it easier or harder. The worse part was getting the aluminum block thing on the cable assy to bolt on with ALL its holes... do it right... the last bolt will be hard to get it, but keep tinkering til they all go in. Otherwise it will shift around on you and mess up your adjustment I think.

Update AGAIN. Getting married this weekend, may have time to tinker, may not... But I plan to either do one of 2 things: #1 Get a known working setup from another 82 BRAT or: #2 Have the outer surface of the flywheel turned down. I am leaning more towards #1. Maybe stick the new disk in the good setup if its substantially thicker. If not I would probably just run 100% old setup in there and reduce the price of the brat accordingly. I just need it done and gone! If after doing either 1 and or 2 it still doesnt work.. I may consider selling it as a partially completed rebuilder. (for someone to swap in a 5 speed DR or some other setup) But hopefully it wont come to that. Any comments? Reason why I should choose 1 method over the other?

Heh heh, sorry I'm getting married that day

I vote for replacing the part. Oil is your cars lifeblood... dont skimp on keeping it in its home (the pan) Do it right and change the pan with a GOOD junkyard unit. Or yank it, clean it REALLY well and weld it up. I wouldnt trust any other methods on my personal car (the 87 GL)

Having gone through this... I am NOT surprised its totaled. My was totaled with between $700-1500 in damage (depending on the shop) for damage that I repaired with: A kick to the fender, a bottle of touch up paint and a junkyard Loyale bumper. They paid me $700 cause my car has like 300K and has afew dents. My car had alot of new parts, but it was going to be cheap to fix and EA82's are a dime a dozen. This turbowagon is hardly a typical car. I would like to see production numbers on them honestly, could be considered a collectors vehicle. Personally since this car is so rare, I agree with the $2500 estimate, although they REALLY dont like to pay for your mods and new parts (trust me I tried)... but hey a stock cherry turbowagon with low miles can still go for at LEAST $1500-2000. Ya you could probably drag a lawyer into it, and you may have to (I just didnt because my car isnt worth much) I would certainly take Richie up on his offer though, helps to have professional opinion behind you.

Actually with a decent carb and a 1600 a stock brat should get pretty darn good mileage.

Hmmm been afew months since I have torn open an EA82 door. I think if the plastic clip that holds the rod into the lock mechanism is broken you can TRY to go to a junkyard and pull one... just be careful not to break it too. Its easy to install them, but hard to get em out in one piece.

Well... I jumped in the brat today and started it in 4 lo 1st gear... it kinda moved forward. Then I tried 1st gear in high range and FWD.... slipping again I dont get it... the carrier was sitting flush down on the pilot shaft this time and I had reseated the release fork. Hmmm maybe the flywheel HAS been turned down too far. I'm almost to the point of trying to swap in a good used 4 sp from when someone else does a 5 speed conversion and take EVERYTHING from their brat since I know its all good and working. This frustrates me SOOO much.

So... is cybrid fluid like liquid gold or something? I know its special but I didnt know it was THAT expensive :-\

Or just remove it yourself and take it down to an automotive upolstery shop. If you yank it out and re-install it yourself it shouldnt be too pricey. Be aware that the little buttons that hold it to the roof break REALLY easy. They are like a buck each from subaru if you break em though.

Regarding the Mazdas... I belive the 4x4's used rims we can use up to around 94-95 (whenever they changed from the B2200 and 2600 to the ranger based 2400-3000-4000)

One more thing... on my instructions (about 2 years old) it didnt say to use a BFH to bang back the front wheel wells where the struts sit. Well you need to hit them slightly (toward the engine) so that the springs dont rub. Some people told me thats common knowledge, but I didnt know it then so I guess its not common enough. Other than that the instructions are very good and maybe that tidbit has been added now.

Over on NASIOC in the Northwest Forum I belive a guy by the name of Red Devil (the one from WCSS6) has the mercedes supercharged gen 1 legacy.

Andrew and I once rescued a 5 speed dual range tranny from an 87 GL in a crush pile. Traded the yard guy a 12 pack of good beer, and he came up with a forklift and pulled down the car for us and set it on some rims... we took care of the rest. Since I got the beer at a dock sale it was a $2.50 transmission

Another update... Yanked the engine, jiggled the release fork, plopped it back on. Slid on TO bearing assy. The pilot shaft and the inner part of the carrier sat COMPLETELY FLUSH! So... I think that was most likely the problem... the fork was no properly seated. I tested the setup with a breaker bar and my body weight against the front of the car... it tried to run me over... good. Since I work late tomorrow, I will try turning the key Wednesday evening to see what happens. Tinkered a bit, said a little prayer... I think it worked... we shall see.

Well it all depends... I would basically say around $1500 If it helps I sold an 87 GL-10 turbowagon with a full 60K service and a really nice body and interior for $2000. Had a tiny crack in the window and a tiny dent in a door, but basically cherry. No cancerous rust, just some small spots inside the rear hatch. Had a newer engine (so no blown headgaskets) and newer CV's and tires. If it will soon be needing a 60K service or you suspect the head gaskets may be going... $1000 tops if it looks good. $500 if its so-so. I dunno, maybe what I am willing to pay may be low, but a full gasket set can get expensive if you have someone install it (try like $1200) Fortunately I know how to do it myself.

Another update... Took the carrier and bearing in to Richie's shop and had a short discussion with him and his dad. We put the bearing and carrier in the vise... its pressed on as far as its going. However we think that maybe when I removed the clutch release fork to grease it while I was doing the clutch job that i may have not seated it properly and it is now therefore always pressing forward on the bearing and carrier. I am going to yank the engine back out Monday night and see if thats the case.

If you have a whole RX donor car, just grab the front cross member as well. Fitment problem solved.

Wow I remember seeing and drooling over that brat's pictures afew months ago. Sad to see it killed, but glad to see it did its job and protected its owner AND that the hit was on the passenger side and not the drivers side.

I agree, its too clean, get it dirty

And the weber... I am amazed at how your car can change classes... a CF hood bumps you up. I belive my shorter shifter would bump me up too (say if I still had a hitachi carb and stock exhaust)

UPDATE as of Feb 20th I stood in front of the brat, and cranked the engine with a breaker bar... it moved, but I could push against it and effectly make it slip I yanked the engine today, yanked the TO bearing and carrier. Re-installed (no wires or anything, just plopped it back in) Turned the engine over with a breaker bar... the brat is pretty much capable of running me over if I continue turning the breaker bar. So the clutch appears to NOT be slipping now. While I had the setup out there was a nice "clean" spot on the pressure plate fingers where it looks like the TO bearing has been riding on it. So... I guess the next step is to see if its pressed on properly, or maybe get a thinner TO bearing. Any other suggestions?