Flowmastered87GL

I get in the car, start it, can get it in gear and it BARELY moves... I can push it faster! I think... back with the old clutch I could actually make it grind if I yanked the cable... hard to remember, but I got it to grind gears somehow... meaning it WAS getting power transfer enough to make it grind... probably JUST enough though, but not enough to effectively transfer full power. My guess still is that ya the FORK is slack, but the carrier is bottomed out on the tranny but is still pressing on the clutch unit. Until tomorrow though we wont know. If it turns out to be the problem I dont know what to do though... I pretty much confirmed by comparing a KNOWN 82 brat flywheel with XSNRG against this one that the flywheel is the correct unit, maybe it needs to be turned a bit or something (on the outer part, not the disk part) but it seems to be where it should. With a breaker bar on the crank the clutch feels like it grabs... but thats like 1 RPM, not 1000 so the load on the system is much less. I just want this thing working and running so I can drive it, finish it and sell it to pay for my wedding

Yes I have resistance the last 1/4 inch or so when I try to press the engine on! So either the bearing is wrong maybe of the setup is too thick... maybe my car is designed for some REALLY rare setup... I dunno. I will report back tomorrow hopefully with what yanking the TO bearing assy. does for it.

Hmmm you all are making me sound like I overcomplicated the job (4 months worth off and on) on the rebuild of my second project which was my silver 86 GL-10.

Mick, saw your pic in the other thread, thanks! I think tomorrow I am gonna take afew hours and yank the engine again and see if removing the TO bearing will make it lurch. Its the only way to single out if its the clutch or the TO bearing causing the problem. At this point I dont know which to root for. (probably something like just needing the TO bearing pressed on further would be easiest)

Hmmm so the one on the left looks alot like mine... (regarding the recess of the carrier in the center) looks like the bearing is not fully down on the carrier, the same as mine looks. But I dont think it can go any further on. The one on the right looks like its slightly thinner... Did you measure them to see if either one was thicker than the other? So everyone here really thinks that maybe my setup is just too thin? (like the flywheel was turned and the outside wasnt) Hmmm looking again maybe I have the setup on the right. At this point I think I only have 2 options: Tow it to Richie's shop and let his dad look at it or: Yank the TO bearing and carrier, turn the key and hold on

Uhhh the old kit is long gone ( threw it out cause I heard they were junk and had all the parts to install the new bigger clutch) On both the new 82 kit and the new 83+ kit I bolted the unit together and tried to spin the alignment tool in it, and it wouldnt spin. But I dunno maybe it was just barely holding it :-\ I just find it odd that BOTH the setup from the big clutch and the small clutch are not working. Seems one of them should work. Hey mick get a pic of how the carrier and bearing are supposed to sit on each other yet? I am half tempted to clear a big path out in front of the car, yank the coil wire (just to be safe) put the car in gear and start it after removing the TO bearing and carrier. If it still slips without that unit in there then I know its a clutch issue. If it grabs then I know the TO bearing is at fault. Dont know what else to try, but a pic of how the clutch side is (or a description) would really help

Having pulled several engines... These engines are hard if you have AC and stuff. There are tons of hoses to unhook and label and the turbo / exhaust really gets in the way. Definitely plan a full day of doing it, its not a 45-60 minute ordeal like a stripped down EA81 (Ya I am slow, I'm sure some of you can get em out in 15 minutes) There is a reason why only 2 of my project cars have been Turbos, its hard to yank the engine alone!

Ya, about the discounts, odds and ends like small screws of fasteners they generally dont care about, but dont load up your toolbox with em or anything. Its funny... everytime I go in there and get 1 or 2 tiny things I show em to the counter guys and they just say take em. But other times I want something like a bumper and they try to charge for the turn signal and stuff integrated into it. So be careful what your parts are bolted to, if you dont need something attached to your part, consider removing it as they MAY try to charge you. Other times they dont care and just give you the parts... I can never tell what kind of mood they are in and have actually had to walk out before because they tried to itemize an EA82 front bumper as a steel bumper PLUS a plastic bumper cover.... $47.50? I think not, I offered $25 take it or leave it. I left it for them to haul back out to the yard. Oh and ask other board members how I dress... the PAP doesnt allow any open toed shoes! No sandals!! (I hate that rule, but its for safety)

-did the brat move okay before the clutch swap/lift was done? Yes, but I lifted and did the clutch swap at the same time, that includes the TO bearing... I held the bearings next to each other but dont remember how the first one was seated on the carrier. -so can you smell the clutch burning then? No clutch burning. I yanked the old 83-84 style clutch out and showed it to richie, looked brand new, no burning or wear -are you torquing down the PP bolts before installing the engine, or are you torquing them through the starter hole? I am torqueing them before installing the engine. Is the EA81 supposed to be through the hole? I torqued them maybe to like 15-20 ft lbs since they are pretty small bolts. Snug, but not gorilla tight. -did you replace the clutch cable? No, I took it off and the car still doesnt move! It should technically lurch forward.

Sweet, I can wait til then. Now you will have me burning with anticipation

If I can get one of the brats done my then, maybe I could do it, but at this point I am really deep financially into my Brats. I just need a working clutch! (see retrofit and off road forums)Sounds fun though... if I can get 3 days off.

Update, got the engine fired up this morning, the FULL 82 style clutch is slipping! And its brand new! So we are down to 1 of 2 things: A: The linkages need to be adjusted, though I think they are fine, a 3 inch lift shouldnt do much, or B: The throw out bearing is either too thick (subaru may have given me the wrong one) or not pressed on all the way. Here is why I think it may be B A diagram: ______ '''''''''''''''| '''''''''''''''| <---- TO Bearing '''''''''''''''| '''''''''''''| '''''''''''''| '''''''''''''| '''''''''''''| <---- Carrier '''''''''''''''| '''''''''''''''| _____ | <-Bottom of TO bearing Note ignore the commas, they are just to give the correct spacing on the diagram. See the idea? I am thinking the "|" of the bearing and carrier should be flush to avoid pushing the clutch unnecessarily. I was banging on the bearing with a socket and it felt like it was down all the way, but like I said maybe the dealer gave me the wrong bearing. Anyone know how the bearing should be sitting on an 82 brat? Flush or popping out like it is?

Well I got the new clutch in my brat, its STILL SLIPPING! We are down to 1 of 2 things being the problem: A: The throw out bearing is not properly pressed on its carrier. B: The shift linkage needs to be adjusted and while I think I am in gear, I really am not. So, with an 82 BRAT, should I have to adjust the shifter linkage at all? I am pretty darn sure I am able to get in all the gears and the car does move with the clutch off, just VERY slowly (like I could push it faster) I am guessing its the carrier, but want input from the experts here regarding the linkages (mudrat, ken, eric...)

Engine installed, just need to put on afew bolts and hoses and should see if the 82 style clutch works again.

I dont deal too much with rusty cars, but I say rust on the fenders is ok, rockers can be ok frame rails and shock mounts, not ok. Especially if they are big gaping holes!

Hmmm I wonder if that woodgrain stuff could be adapted to Brat use... I think a woody brat would be sweet :cool:

I got the flywheel back from the shop yesterday (broke a bolt and had it extracted) They cleaned the rust out of the threads too. Got brand new pressure plate bolts cause the old ones were damaged (streched threads!) I will bolt it all together tomorrow night hopefully This is the 82 style clutch going back in it.

Ya, save those for replication purposes! I bet you could make some money on them seeing as the brat stripes sell for quite a bit on e-bay. And also you would give us a way to accessorize our vintage subes.

Did someone say flowmaster? Looks nice, the muffler looks a little straigher up and down than mine, but looks like a very similar setup (just a bit bigger cause its on a turbo of course) I like the anti-bling black on it. That rust looks bad though (compared to an Oregon car)

You want an order of cars eh?? 1987 4WD GL, still have it today, I have over $8000 in receipts to this day for it I think if you include the $2700 purchase price many years ago. Engine is new, carb is new, and CV's are new. Tranny is old as rear driveline. Got it with 215K and it has 309K today. Projects: (note all cars are 4WD) 1986 GL, had a 3AT, 168K or so?, but got like 35-40 MPG if driven gently. Basically used as extra car, its still on the road today. Had to rebuild front end after ex hit a tree with it. 1986 GL-10 Turbo, Mileage unknown, Got this up in Bellingham, towed it to Samammish, got a fresh engine, blew a head gasket on the way home (stuck thermostat), rebuilt engine over the next 4 months in albany. Basically replaced EVERYTHING on this car... what a money pit. The only car I lost a signifcant amount of money on. 1987 GL-10 Turbo 178K, had a pretty much new engine, just had to trailer it home from Oak Harbor and do a 60K on it and slap in a 2 row radiator. Ran great, looked great, made the trip from Oregon to Utah with no problem. Last I heard it was in an accident and totaled out 1991 Legacy LS, 180K got this from Richierich and held it for a week for Hondasucks. Used it for running Beer in and out of campus 1998 Impreza L sedan. 58K Bought this totaled, paid over the course of a year to have it rebuilt, finally got it home, then had title issues. got those ironed out and sold it. By far the nicest car I have ever owned. took it to reno and back and got 31 MPG with my foot on the floor most of the way. 1982 Brat, 144K still have it, its a rust bucket, its almost all finally fixed, ran good when I got it, runs better now, just needs the clutch finished. Fresh engine too. 1988 GL 220K, really good shape, just needed a head gasket job. Did it all in Jasons garage and sold it to a friend. Still on the road today. Drove nicer than my car. 1992 Loyale 158K Another 3AT, had to replace the tranny, did a 60K on it too. One day it just didnt start. took it to Richie's shop and it started... go figure. Had some title issues but it all came out good. 1988 GL 266K, sat for 2 years, replaced all the seals, clutch, tires and Egr solenoid. Made a mighty $88 for all of my hours of labor on this thing! Ran really sweet though and looked good too. 1986 GL 256K, Edrach's old car. Did a reseal/head gasket, had Richie fix the wheel bearing, had to change the hitachi carb. The car cleaned up really well and is still on the road. 1982 Brat, 205K, still in the process of buying from Richie, its a little rusty, but way better than the other brat. Its gonna be a street machine :cool: Thats all the projects and personal cars up to today.

I think low range is very important in the ice and mud. In just snow single range will be fine. I agree that 3 speed autos are lousy. They work on and get decent mileage, but they are slow. They wheel pretty good though, my first 86 was an auto and I had it on some pretty ugly roads (if you want to call them roads) SPFI is generally seen on the 88 and up models. some earlier years have it but some dont. Having had both carbed and fuel injected models, I say if you have the choice, get the fuel injection. The carb can be made faster with a weber carb swap, but its still tempramental in the mornings

I belive the shift points (in MPH) that are listed in the manual are the speed you are generally travelling at with the engine at redline... so if it says 17 in 1st, shift at like 12-15 unless you are confident in your engine. 10 sounds WAY too early though.

What if we did it in the evening? Say 7 PM or something would that make it more accessable??

Sounds easy to me honestly... I deliver pizza and can rack up over 100 miles a day easy. And thats between 20 and 35 miles per hour... put me on a highway and over a longer distance... I could rack that up easy! Going from town to town can really build up miles. But man... a tank of gas a day! And I thought it was bad filling the car every other day.

It all depends on how you drive... my brat with a mostly stock system, but no muffler had WAY more torque than my 87 GL with upsized pipes (2.0 inch to cat 2.25 to muffler and then 2.5 out) My GL is WAY rev happier though... and I generally keep it at 3000 or above so it all depends on how you drive. If you like high revs like I do, then 2.0-2.25-2.5 is a good start. Any bigger isnt reasonable though as my bottom end is starting to lack at this point. Plenty of top end though If you want bottom end maybe try 1.75 to the cat and then 2.0 back from there.