Flowmastered87GL

I have a tool... I will loan it out, but may want some kind of deposit on it (fully refundable of course!!) if I have to leave it there (sorry its a nice machined aluminum tool and I dont want to have to get a new one as it took me a long time to find one this nice)

Somewhere in the 400 thousands. Never seen it, but heard about it from GLCraigGT. The highest I have ever driven thats all original is 256K or so. My car has 308K but has a new engine, so techically it doesnt count.

Yes its Richie and his Dad. Apparently word is spreading of their shop because they have been really busy!

Yes the shop is owned by RichieRich. Its presently located near the intersection of NE Killingsworth and 42nd though the shop is in the process of moving to a newer, bigger facility on 82nd and Prescott (also in NE) I have had alot of work done there, I recommend them highly

Wow this thread is old, that car is long gone, still on the road to my knowledge. Turns out I just had to replace the EGR solenoid for those that wonder.

Reminds me of the Nissan Sentra SE-R front end (from a straight on shot)

I have an old carter weber out of my brat, has like 144K on it. Ran good when warm, got about 25 MPG in town. I think the choke wasnt set right because it didnt run that smooth for the first 1-2 minutes, but after that it was great. I have the entire intake manifold so you can pick and choose the parts you want. PM me if interested and we can work out a price

I prefer genuine subaru parts, but then again its because I resell my cars... nice to tell the buyer most if not all the parts are genuine. I am not trying to knock the other wires, anything is better than the autolite (or something like that) junk that schucks has

I am in Portland, find a time when I am free and I will help you out, its just hard for me to find time. Maybe Saturday evening after I get off work or sometime between monday-thursday in the evening... all my days off are occupied right now though I have had ALOT of EA82's (See signature) So maybe I would have some luck figuring it out.

The setup is at Richie's shop right now being analyzed... I am gonna yank the carrier and junk tomorrow and make sure the bearing is pressed on all the way and the carrier is riding where it should be. Fox, we tried yanking the clutch cable totally off and the car still didnt move.

I know I didnt see it, but I swear back in high school when I still drove my mom's OBS that I saw an RX 2 door sedan. I know it was really a 3 door or a sedan.... but man it looked JUST LIKE THAT! Maybe its cause I drove past it too fast Before I knew better I was actually kinda looking for a 2 door sedan, but when I discovered the internet and stuff I found they only made 3 EA82 body styles

The flywheel... not sure... the pressure plate and clutch disk are brand spanking new. The clutch has been slipping, but has NO WEAR on the disk or any of its mating surfaces So I figure its getting disengaged by the TO bearing. Also when I assemble the clutch inside the flywheel (off the engine) the unit feels very sturdy and capable of transfering power... so something must be making it release when its stuck into the car. I guess if I really got daring I could take off the TO bearing and pop the clutch back on the engine and stick it in there and see what happened. May be scary to try to start a car with no way of releasing the clutch engagement though.

Where is the pit at? (approximate location is good enough, dont need exact directions or address)

Another thought... since you havn't installed them yet how do you know you wont like the height they will give you. Sure its a bit more labor but I am in the school of thought that you should install them, see where the car is now and where you want it. Then if you choose to cut the springs, cut em a little, put em back on and see where you are... repeat until you are as low as you want.

I second Richierich, I have taken many cars to him with good results each time (92 Loyale, 86 GL, 87 GL....)

Update on page 3 As most of you know 82 brats (even though they are 4WD) came with the tiny "front wheel drive" style clutch. My 82 brat had this and I tried changing it to the later 4WD style. What I did is use the 82 TO bearing and carrier and the 83+ flywheel, disk and pressure plate. Well the clutch was slipping like mad. I have since pulled the engine and the clutch shows NO WEAR. Hell there are even still little rust specs on the flywheel. I had a theory so I put it into practice. The theory is that the newer clutch is a thicker unit (so therefore uses a thinner carrier on the TO bearing) I tried putting the pressure plate onto the tranny, no prob, could feel it touching the TO bearing. so I plopped on the disk to the shaft on the tranny, it touches but almost comes to the front of the pilot shaft. Wow and the clutch fork is all the way back too! I tried it with the disk and plate bolted onto the flywheel and the pilot shaft still only came 50% of the way through the pilot bearing. Yes something is definitely keeping it from going on. So, my hypothesis is: I had trouble mating the engine to the tranny when I first installed it... because... the carrier is too thick and the clutch was fighting me. Basically I had to push the engine back so hard so as to disengage the clutch to bolt the engine together. I will now install an 82 FWD style clutch to try to prove my theory. What I intend to prove: The only ways to make this system work are with a full 82 setup, OR with an 83+ carrier re-machined (or shimmed) to fit the shaft on an 82 tranny. We shall see how it goes.

OK, as posted in the other thread, the first meet, after having been re-scheduled didnt turn out all that big. We are looking at doing another Sunday meet, probably doing it late in February like the 20th or the 27th. It will be at the same place Stark St. Pizza, and this time we really hope to get some club talk started up. Please post with what you think of potential dates. For me either of those dates work, anything later than that interferes with my wedding.

Given that you live in Phoenix, I really doubt you would need em. Even up here in Oregon I would only say I would need em afew times a year (had my mirrors iced over in a freezing rain storm a week ago, but thats it)

Chef tim already did the brat tops on a hatchback The doors will swap over, the windshield should too, the side window glass in the doors IS different (my brat has hatch doors on it)

Correct, I will be able to make it I wish the schedule would work for everyone, but at least the weather should be better (ya ya it probably would have been ok for MOST of us last week but I think Richie was still stuck on the road) Anyone coming from the gorge area though would have had an adventure. Anyway Sunday the 23rd, 4:15 PM at Start Street pizza, yes its just off 205

This is just a half educated guess on my end, but I think the heater air intake is up at the back edge of the hood. As the smoke rose off the exhaust it probably floated up to this area and was therefore sucked in the heating system. Like I said, just a guess, but I think its possible

I heard the F was for Ford

PTO = Power Take Off, like tractors and large trucks have. basically run the wipers off the engine, rev it up to make em go faster I have noticed mine go kinda slow when the alternator isnt putting out all the volts or if I have alot of stuff on, I think we are just stuck with em going slow though. Hmmm maybe UP the voltage?? (probably fry something though)

PM coming your way. I have spare parts and a welder. Worse case scenario we will need to replace your throttle cable, but I can show you the setup on my BRAT and wagon, both custom made by me.

Ya Primitive sounds like the word. I may have written that last message after afew beers