Flowmastered87GL

My drivers side one was pretty bad when I started... I belive my pistons were protruding 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch. The drivers pads were to the metal and starting to eat the rotor, so they cant get much more extended than that. And it sounds as if yours arent as bad as mine were so yours should thread in. Make sure the parking brake lever isnt engaged (either inside the car OR on the caliper) I had the best luck putting the car on jackstands and sitting on my little rolly stool (a beer cooler would work too) I slid the caliper off (but left it hooked up) and opened the bleeder screw slightly as well as opened the master cylinder. I laid the caliper on top of the brake assembly piston facing up, then used my biggest wrench to turn the little cube thing. (a big craftsman 1/2 inch drive ratchet with a downsizer to fit the cube in) The big thing that helped me was afew whacks with a rubber mallet first, then I pushed down as hard as I could and turned. Try to turn TOO hard and the cube slipped out. I chewed up the cube a bit, but I think it should last for afew more brake jobs. I agree with the theory that using vise grips on the OUTSIDE of the piston could do damage. My calipers were pretty nasty and the cube worked, so try a mallet too.

If you are REALLY scared of water getting in... hell I guess you could seal with a bead of silicone everywhere the carb halves bolt together... though I bet you would have ignition issues before that happened unless your carb gaskets really suck.

I thought Ken had a snorkel on his old red hatch. You could probably just silicone around the housing of the choke. Make sure the air cleaner or whatever goes on the top of the carb is good and sealed. Maybe even put teflon tape on the bolts that bolt it in??

Your subies just seem to have tranny trouble huh? the 86, the 92, But those were autos, odd that a manual is having issues. Hopefully not a problem though.

The pedal feels MUCH better today. The pads just needed to get seated I think. Had to match up with the grooved rotors (dont worry, I will install new parts later with a working parking brake and some genuine subaru pads I traded some beer to Craig for)

Well I got to play with my new digital calipers today (chrismas present) Used them to measure the thickness of new pads on the rotor and turned the piston until it met that tolerance. Took a LONG time, I think the parking brake circuit is broken on the drivers side, so no parking brake for now... the brakes work though! No more metal to metal contact! I used the tool (the little $12 cube) Probably a little more than I should have paid, but with a 87 on jackstands, an 86 with a bad carb and a brat with a slipping clutch, I had to go to the place within walking distance. I took off the master cyl cap and opened up the bleeder screws. The brakes were WAY soft after installing, so I bled the fronts, still kinda soft, some air may have gotten to the rears :-\ The car stops better now anyway even with a slightly softer pedal though. the 86 stops WAY better than mine though.

Hmmm I dont know where the nearest autozone is to here... since I work on EA82's so much (see signature) I figure I should just buy a tool. Fox, good point about it maybe not catching the threads... it could be kinda hyperextended from the lack of remaining meat on the brakes..

Ya I had the master cyl cap off too. I figured I had to crank more, I wasnt able to push with the tools I currently have, so I think I need to get a REAL tool before I can do it right. Anyway its back together and it stops so all is ok for the next few days til I take another attempt at it.

Ok I did a search, and understand this: Front calipers must have the piston screwed in, not pressed in. Now... I am going from pads with like 5% IF that left, to brand new ones. I was able to eventually turn the piston afew turns (dont have the tool yet, will buy it next chance I get) It bought me some space, but not near enough... when going through such a drastic change in pad thickness does anyone know how many rotations it takes?? Seems it would be like 20-30 with the amount my turns got it. I would have kept going, but it was getting late and I was still on side one, so I just put the crap ones back in I need to have the bleeder screw slightly open too right?? (says so in the how to keep your suby alive) My main question is just how far I really have to turn.

Richie's site is here: http://www.superiorimportrepair.com/page.htm The page is still under construction, but it has some basic info on it. I have taken afew of my cars to Richie and I find him to be the most reasonable/ethical mechanic I have ever encountered.

Uhhh probably... but on the loyale I belive the console is so high because the seat belt motors are under it. The console is really tiny, its just raised up. I really dont see why it wouldnt fit though. Be aware that the Loyale used a different shifter surround however, so console fit issues may come up when trying to mate the 2 parts together. So, will it fit, yes probably, but will it be a perfect direct bolt in, probably not.

They tried the same thing on me... said the Justy was the only legal 4WD car... ya but 1781 CC times 0.8 pushrod multiplier times what... 1.3 for 4WD is still under the limit... even mine with SOHC slipped under... until I webered it... You should be able to get away running PGT, though that IS unfair cause a GL and a WRX have way different outputs.

He he you mean that Silver subaru with the Domino's sign on top?? If I was going 40 I was going slow Oh... just thought about it... I was probably coming back from the Elementary School on Thompson (Really close to Jason's house) I did a nice 4WD launch to get across the street quickly :cool: Those toppers more or less make us above the law... we can for the most part park anywhere but a handicapped or fire zone and can drive pretty darn fast!

$105 for the solenoid... you got ripped off :-p It cost me $86.25 at the subaru dealer here

So.... if I got a fix it ticket though, couldn't I swap in a guage pack with like 125K on it and then show em that I changed it. Sure I will get a NOT ACTUAL MILEAGE brand on the title probably, but I already have 304K and a TOTALED and RECONSTRUCTED brand on the title, so whats another one?

As some of you may or may not know, I got a speeding ticket last Thursday. $191 Now... I am considering getting a lawyer and fighting it on the fact that my speedo sucks (and that I was being passed on the right and thats who the cop was most likely clocking given he had radar and not laser) Yesterday I put my theory into practice that my speedo sucks... I was driving home from work and passed through the usual photo radar location. Sure enough the van was there, so a free chance to check my accuracy. I was doing 35, I slowed down to 29 (said the van, I did hit the brakes so that sounds about right) The speedometer stayed on 35 the WHOLE TIME even though the tach dropped as I slowed down. My car has 304K. Similar things sometimes happen on acceleration as well it will stay too low though. I will speed up and it will take a second or 2 to catch up. Sometimes like 5 seconds if I am flooring it to get on a freeway. Doesnt do it all the time though, just sometimes. If I can get it settled down to a fix it ticket, what do I have to do to make this thing a little better, just put a dab of grease on the tranny end of the cable?

Dealers, vary, parts counter workers vary... I keep a database on all the Subarus I work on and belive me, depending on which dealer I go to and who I talk to... prices can fluctuate quite a bit. So I try to go to Carr subaru and get my usual parts guy... he hooks me up (though I still dont know his name!)

Hmmm so since they are different outputs either my brat has a higher output alternator or my wagon has a lower output :-\ I guess the second one since with alot of stuff on, the voltage kinda dips at idle. Ed's 86 doesnt do that (hitachi Alt)

I believe I have seen a set or reproduction "Brumby" stripes on e-bay. Of course they have the BRAT ones. I belive they also have the UD or whatever the brat was called in Europe...

Remember pimpin over to autozone in the 87?? I have to hold mine up. All the cars in my signature except my 98 Impreza I had to do that on too. your 88 is just wierd

I am fully positive they are the same. If its a single pully type (which it should be) I belive even the pully is compatible between models (say between my 86 and my 82 brat) The double pully on some (like my 87) probably wouldnt work.

I belive I saw the fingers move more than 1/8 of an inch when I bolted it on. I figured that meant it was clamping down on the disk??

Keep an eye out after new years, we will post another thread when the time comes and people's schedules calm down.

I hope its something that simple... though I swear when I put it together that I put it in so the friction material touched up on the flywheel. The other way it would have been metal to metal. I also seem to remember watching the pressure plate slightly change shape as I bolted it on (like it was properly grabbing on the clutch) I guess we wont know til I yank it back out. :-\

This brat is really sweet, afew body defects, but very few. Tailgate is flawless from what I saw. I shoulda asked for a test drive