Flowmastered87GL

My opinion, a leaky rusty subaru is only worth afew hundred... by Oregon standards the car is totally worthless because of the rust. But since I assume rust is a bit more common in Virginia, maybe with all the issues you could get afew hundred for it (like 2-$300)

Not that I am aware of, U-Pull-It really is probably the best bet

Nice, but if you want more power, the EASY way to get it is with a weber carb and free flowing exhaust first of all. Still need more then maybe put a cam in a CCR EA81. You could swap in an EA82, but the EA81 is so bulletproof I dont see much reason to.

??? Brad ?? Leaving portland for good or just temporary to make some $$?? Cause I still need that front suspension sometime

Well your tags are expired and it looks like the badge on the hood is missing....

I believe his car should take the long type with studs. I had an engine out of an 87 RX though that had the short type with bolts, but generally I would say its the stud one. I think Russ established he has the long type of pump a while ago (the cheaper one too!)

I've never gotten to lock yet... I have like 28 inch tires and they rub the fenders so I can turn em enough yet til I BFH them.

If you have any EA81 front CJ joints (in halfway decent shape) could you send one down with Craig please?? My brat has one hyperextended and the engine/tranny cant fit in there til we fix it.

I dont think mine rubs, mine is a 3 inch. It better not! everything is bolted together though and I have rolled it around the parking lot with no issues (other than a hyperextended CV joint)

You do NOT need to remove the timing belts to do the water pump. I did it on my 86 turbowagon in Andrew's driveway, I took out the radiator and took off the timing covers, but thats about it. You may want to move the AC compressor and alternator up or over or something so you can see what you are doing. I also did it on my GL in the morning, and was able to get the thing back together for work at 5PM, also no timing belt removal necessary. Best thing to do is yank the radiator and covers, then look at the NEW pump to see where it goes in. Make sure to change the O ring on the water tube (hard line to radiator), the gasket against the engine and the elbow hose that goes to the heater core.

Ya it runs decent, though has a slight miss at idle, most likely I would assume from carbon buildup and stuff from the past 2 years of very light use. I still think I will be able to sell it since it has brand new tags. Sure is slow compared to my webered 87 though (it feels like the carter weber that my brat had when stock)

I'm in only if its on a Sunday. Cant do Saturdays cause of work

Well the car runs again :-\ I was going to mess with the vac line on the disty and while poking around I found a vac line that was pinched off due to it being too long. I shortened it up and crammed it back on and the car started. I ran it around the parking lot for a good 10 minutes this time turned it off a couple of times and it restarted! So.... maybe its finally fixed. It still has a kind of rough idle, but upping the idle to 1500 for now fixes that. Not the proper way, but at least its drivable in traffic and cruises nice. So... I THINK the vac line was the culpret, maybe or maybe not about the fuel pump... I am too lazy to swap the old one back on so if it runs ill just leave it. Good thing I swapped it as well as the fuel line was cracked to hell and back (cause of the 180 degree bend) so I replaced that too.

See update in post #2 This car is driving me crazy, I swear its cursed! I had it running decent, got like 150 miles out of it, then I THOUGHT the fuel pump died. Well I replaced the fuel pump today, the fuel filter and the 8-10 inches of fuel line between the filter and pump. The car then started just fine. I ran the car around my parking lot, just as it was starting to warm up, it sputtered and died and wouldnt restart (just like it did the first time when some guy told me the fuel pump died) So now the car is once again just sitting in the driveway. Things to note/hints: I took off the gas cap, the car still wouldnt start. I took off the top of the air cleaner and I could get a little cloud of fuel vapor when I opened up the carb so I think I have fuel. I dont have anyone here with me right now to play with the coil wire to see if it arcs but I belive it was getting a spark last time when it died. I changed the 15A fuse for the ignition and it didnt help When we checked the timing (vac line on) the timing didnt register on the flywheel. When we yanked the vac line it did (dont remember where) I am going to try to go yank the line and see if it starts (hopefully) I need this car fixed and gone, so fire away with ideas!

Ok thats kinda what I figured. I'll probably try to yank the unit and take it down to Richie and his dad to re-assemble and regrease. I knew the boot looked funny

We are moving to SE Portland for the purpose of shorter commutes, so we will be Closer to Jason, but farther from Craig by the time this brat is done I will owe craig some cash or some nice fancy garage tools for all the help he has given. I will have a 2 car garage now though and an 18.5 month lease so I wont have to worry about getting cars finished by a specific date right on time. I am considering yanking that CV. I was hoping i could just wrestle it off with the car jacked up and the engine yanked up a bit too. I really dont want to though. I swear it got stuck in the extended position though (on the DOJ) Cause the boot just looks REALLY strange.

As far as ownership goes, my 87 GL which I have had for like 7 years and 89,000 miles or so has been what I offically starting my obsession. What really got my started is my brother's high school friend first had a 90 Legacy L with some sweet rims (hey I was like 12 at the time, I thought the rims made the car cool ) He later upgraded to a sweet 92? Purple with gold trim SVX... I still want that car That led to my mom buying a 96 OBS which I learned to drive on. I then bought my 87 GL November of Junior year of High School.

I was installing the engine into my brat last night (finally!) and had a bit of a time wrestling it onto the tranny, but thats pretty typical. I had to jack up the tranny a fair amount to get clearance and I think maybe I jacked it up too high or something as now... The engine and tranny combination wont sit straight. When we first set it down no engine mounts would fit in the cross member. Now with Craig and I pulling and yanking on the assembly we got the passenger side in the hole decently and the drivers side is finally into its hole, but not far enough down to get a nut on. So something is holding the assembly up. Hints/ideas: Brat is lifted 3 inches (pkdavis) and engine and tranny fit perfect after lift, but before I yanked engine to work on. I had all gears before. I pushed the carcass around my parking lot to let my 86 in and out of the garage and I had no engine in it at the time. At this time I noticed that the drivers CV (the side that is getting pushed up on by the way) has the boot kinda funny looking. Maybe like the joint is extended a bit and stuck?? Now the shifter doesnt like to move around so much because everything isnt in the right place. We even unbolted the tranny cross member just to try to level stuff out and it helped a bit, but the engine still hasnt come down and home. I am tending to lean towards the linkage or the CV joint causing the problem but all input is appreciated as this thing needs to be running by the 15th of December for our move!

Since you said it got hot on the freeway I suspect the radiator and coolant. This is why: When my 87 GL blew a head gasket it got hot while idling or going very slow around town. When my 87 GL-10 turbo needed a new radiator it was fine around town, but on the highway it got hot

I woulda taken a picture of my car on 300K, but I was going through photo radar and wanted to keep my speed down so I ended up missing my photo chance... ya I probably coulda pulled over taken the picture and pulled back on the road, but oh well.

Hell yeah, an EA82 with switches :cool:

I test fit, the clutch will work fine it appears with a normal 82 throw out bearing. Now I just need to exchange the part.

I may consider the spacer, I just want to see how much of the bearing rides on the clutch, if its on by a thread, I will consider trying to get a spacer made. If its a decent amount of contact I'll just exchange the big bearing for the little 82 style one.

Hmmm ok I may have to exchange my new throwout bearing then... I will have to play around with it tomorrow.

Often times the wiring harness on the carb is different too. My 87 used to be a 3 wire system harness. I bought a 2WD carb for it many years ago cause the original one crapped out. It as a 4 wire system so I had to adapt it to be 3 wire. So ya the carbs are different. I got awful mileage with the 4 wire carb converted to 3 wire so careful what you do. I later changed to a weber. More power AND better mileage!