Flowmastered87GL

I accidentally lit my brat on fire AGAIN Maybe I shoulda taken out all the insulation on the back side of the firewall before welding the patch in. Anyway I put it out but decided to stop welding for the day and instead try to stick the engine back in. Well throw out bearing on the tranny is to the 82 (little) clutch. I got a new larger 83+ clutch and throw out bearing going in. Well the carrier that rides on the input shaft doesnt fit the new larger throw out bearing?? What gives?? Is this carrier like a common part I can get at my dealer? Just ask for a 4WD 83-84 wagon throw out bearing carrier I would assume? The clips that hold it on are perfect, the carrier is perfect, its just the wrong size now!

My XT seats sure were in there along time huh PM coming about suspension stuff.

I have pictures of 28/29 inch tires ona 3 inch lifted brat... they barely fit. cutting and banging of the fenders and wheel wells has to happen. e-mail me if you want to see them the_great_mikeholio AT yahoo DOT com

Being that you have GL seats, why not upgrade to a nice set of GL-10 seats in a matching color?? They have better cushioning, (can usually be found in good shape) adjustable lumbar support, adjustable height (drivers side) and adjustable headrests (both fronts) A matching rear seat can be had that has non-adjustable, (but removable) headrests.

Being that the car is fuel injected and it has the 87+ side moldings AND bumpers... what makes you say its an 86?? Was it produced in 12/86 or something?? If thats the case its really probably an 87 model. If the guage lighting is green and the wiper controls are coming off the right side of the steering column, its definitely 87+ I agree that going to a weber would be a step backwards. My 87 GL with a weber WAS faster than my 88GL's with SPFI, but they got way better mileage and ran smoother. Does the check engine light work? Try checking for codes (see the USRM) One of my 88's ran like crap cause of a bad EGR solenoid and later because of a bad sensor on the throttle body or something (the new owner found that out)

Ya, but how many time only competitors were there really But ya I think I did pretty good, only hit a couple of cones.

Just a thought... I dont know if its the answer, but its an idea. If any valving is missing (say if you replaced the vac lines and one maybe had a 1 way valve inside) when you accelerate you build boost... your HVAC works off vacuum, which boost is not... Just an idea.

87 + is also better cause the headlight switch and stuff is on the turn signal stalk, and more importantly... the wipers are on the steering column rather than the knob below the HVAC controls. MUCH easier to wipe the window by pulling the stalk rather than reaching up and turning a knob.

Mmmm nice and slippery out there. VERY tight course, sometimes full lock steering wasnt enough. Everyone took out their share of cones. I rarely hit cones and racked up at LEAST 5 or more over my runs. Nice seeing everyone again. ---------- And to the mystery donor... thank you :grin: I guess it was kinda good karma for me letting Craig use my brat battery to run his wagon.

I'm gonna come bang on your door... remember I have the battery from the BRAT Yay, Craig's GL runs again... had a fuel leak, we fixed that. The battery fit perfectly and amazing wasnt dead even though its been sitting out of the brat for months and months and months......

Hmmmm if its on defrost, if you floor it, and the AC compressor was running its possible that it kicked off. My impreza did that. Funny that the fan has issues when you accelerate. Mine has issues when I am sitting still. My alternator at idle isnt strong enough to run front defrost on level 4 AND the rear defrost and headlights and radio.

Dude, Brad, they are cheaper than that. They are 155/80 R13

You are correct, usually when you cook the engine the timing covers kinda melt. More likely than not, the water pump is just totally cooked and that was leaking water everywhere and that led to the white residue all over the engine. Try throwing on afew hoses and the water pump and see what happens...

When my 86 GL-10 blew its headgasket it would pee a stream out the bottom of the headgasket onto the ground. Other cars I have had showed no signs other than coolant vanishing into thin air.

Here is what I suggest: Front / Rear main seal Cam tower o-rings (often hard and leaky) Oil Pan Gasket Oil Pump gasket / seal (a round one and a mickey mouse shaped one) Cam seals valve cover gaskets valve cover grommets With all that you will probably solve most leaks. (other than head gasket ones which I have encountered on my 86) I wouldnt worry about replacing the timing cover gaskets unless they come with the kit.

I may be able to help you on the alternator... PM me... I have some alternator connections at Autozone I guess you could say.

They should be only $2 each at your local subaru dealer. $4 = you are getting ripped off.

You COULD maybe find some drawings of stuff. Look at www.subarubrat.com and he may have pics of how he setup his own lift kit. Generally what I would suggest is to first understand the basics of lifting, is to get a "PK Davis" lift from www.ozified.com . Once you understand how and what needs to be lifted on a Subaru can you really make a decent lift. I think I am a PK person for life though... unless I choose to go higher, then I am going to "Mudrat79" Basically you extend the struts on the front from one end or the other, drop the engine cross member, the rear of the front subframe (3 bolts on each side on EA81's) then lower the rear mustache bar and trailing arm assy.

Nothing a BFH couldnt fix I bet I actually dont know the RIGHT answer, but I suppose if you use the fuel pump and junk from the old holey tank everything should be fine.

Dude that is funky looking. Of all my GL series cars none of them have had that setup. What I find odd that my GL has no AC, but my alternator hangs WAY farther out from the PS pump that your RX. So the alt looks to have been moved closer to the PS pump. I prefer the setup with the AC in the middle... makes changing the alt once a year much easier

I think I will finally make it. Its here right?? (not Hood River like last time... when I was too lazy to change BACK to my street tires just to drive up there at the crack of dawn and change back to my rally tires...) This time I will only be afew minutes away I had better not break anything this time!

Funny, I run upsized exhaust on my car (2.0 to cat, 2.25 to muffler and 2.5 out) I used to run a 32/26 DGEV and it had the stock 140 primary jets in it. Now I have a 32/36 DFEV and it has 135's I am told.

Hmmm looks just like my car will someday :cool: I have the same silver color, though I think I may got slightly larger on the tires

I know its not turbo, but my GL engine that came from Japan was WAY different on vacuum stuff hooked up. So maybe expect some more solenoids and charcoal canisters and stuff like that, but I assume the block and heads are the same.

Not to say it cant be done, but you have your work cut out for you on bobbing a wagon. I've seen your custom cab Toyota though and think you could do it if you take your time and dont cut corners. If you want to, do it, dont let anyone stop you, its your car!