Flowmastered87GL

On 93-97 Imprezas they are the hardest to find. They totally appear to be the upper part of the black trim that surrounds the stereo. Much more stealthly than the 98+ (I know cause ive had a 96 and 98)

Some early 2.5 liter engines (98 and afew years on later) outbacks and foresters tended to have some head gasket issues. Generally once they get new gaskets they are supposed to be ok from what I hear so if you find one thats already blown the gaskets and had em fixed then its pretty safe. Later years are pretty safe too (like the last 2-3 years) Also early (98-2000??) foresters had rear wheel bearing issues... something along the lines of they used impreza rear bearings. The fix is to use legacy bearings instead. Dont let those scare you they are wonderful vehicles and should last a long time.

Grrrrr I'm working!!! Maybe someone could call Milwaukee Domino's and order a pizza (they are technically out of our delivery area but I could make an exception)

ya if anything more emphasis should be put on the USRM... its definitely better than the last time I read it... I may post an article in there later about the ghetto EA82 short shifter (same degrees, but shorter radius)

Hmmm close to what I want to do someday... want to keep it a little more stock... put the IC on top and not the front and maybe just run some 14" pug alloys or something.... make it a sleeper

I have been there and done that... So many ways to go about this. My first way (kinda ghetto really now that I think back) Put the 32/36 DGEV (electric choke) on backwards. Ran the throttle cable around the bottom... Hmm throttle cable is too long and started to bind up. Ok lets shorten the throttle cable... ok now its frayed... great... throttle cable breaks during a rally cross... I rig it to get my runs in and get me home. Solution: Switch to a 32/36 DFEV (its reversed) your throttle can now remain on the passenger side of the car and you can use a normal throttle cable. I had to weld my throttle cable cam thingie to the part that bolts to the carb to actuate the throttle, but thats it... and slightly move the cable mount rearward. A much more polished job than before though. The good news... there is ALWAYS a market for webers here so you can probably get close to what you paid for the carb and buy the reversed one. 1 more thing.... where the carb adapter mounts to the intake there is a water passage... get the coolant out of it, grind back the metal tube inside a bit and insert a small screen scrap (like a screen door) and then FILL it with JB weld. Also on the 1/4" water hose leading to it insert a 1/4 diameter 1" long stud INTO the hose (get a new hose to be safe) and clamp the stud in place. This will act as a plug AND assuming anything gets past it, the JB weld is what it will hit... your intake will never leak this way... it leaked before like once a year with it unplugged and just a gasket over the hole.

Wow nothing left! At least now if there is ANY rust you can properly deal with it

Change the fuel filter. My 87 GL needed it. Should be right behind the drivers side strut tower on your car.

I think its worth the $30 when I have the money around... just not when the day before I was allowed to beat the snot out of the car in the off road area at WCSS6 (why I didnt run then) I'd go this time around, but I am still kinda poor (tips are improving again though!) and I will be in California between the 8th and 10th anyway... so go for me... again

I guess I was too busy in the beer garden to witness Mark win that ... I just saw the later half when his kids were winning everything

My 98 did that as it sat in a body shop for like a year. There is a switch up on the brake pedal if I remember correctly. Try lubing it up. Basically the switch confirms you are pressing the brake before shifting. Sometimes you can just hit the brake afew times, but it WILL stick again. So you need to lube it somehow.

If you fit the lift kit at the same time wont the 2WD gas tank work??

Carbed EA82 = only one filter, its in front of the passenger rear tire up with the fuel pump. The car lurched ONCE today... right after I started it to drive out the driveway. Only did it that once though... some of the junk may have made it to the carb though It still runs way better though, like 99% perfect for now...

Problem solved: Air cleaner removal actually made things worse! So I changed the fuel filter. All is good all the way up to 6750 RPM :cool: I wanna cut open the old filter and see how nasty it is inside. Its all muddy so I cant see through the plastic. My guess is the brief time I ran arco kinda messed up the filter though.

Uhhhhh its in HOOD RIVER??? Crap I didnt notice that. I already swapped my tires over to rally. I assumed Hillsboro which is super close to me. I really dont know if I want to come all the way out there. I've had a long week, I get this ONE day off, then I have to work 4 more days then I leave for California... I may or may not make it out at this point... Probably not though... $30 to beat up the car PLUS gas when I need to come up with over $300 for a welder... More likely I'll go to home depot and buy a welder and try to get the brat put back together

I agree that I would plan on doing tranny work. Same goes for other cars like an EA82T... if I take one in I just plan to do a head gasket and or timing belts in the near future. EA82 I just plan on the timing belts.

Ya the weber one IS delayed... it comes on about when the disty is supposed to advance is what I was told... Anyway I used to have the weber vac run straight to the manifold... maybe this confused the vac system I dunno, but it idled at like 1200 there. It idles at 8-900 plumbed "correctly" with NO OTHER changes performed on the car. Oh, one more thing... when I first had this stuff installed I blew a coolant line and got coolant over EVERYTHING before a rallycross... so therefore I had a nice soggy air filter, never cleaned it after that so it COULD be gummed up with coolant and dirt. I'll try chaning the fuel filter and cleaning the air filter and see what happens.

Grrr the board ate my first post... Basically I made plates for where the EGR went as well as for the heads where the tubes came out on each side. I took off all vac lines except those to the disty advance and the climate control. no evap can either. Not sure what this would do to an EFI car though

I dont know how else to describe it... I installed a 32/36 DFEV (the backwards one) about 9000 miles ago. It ran perfect at light throttle and full throttle. Now... it runs good at light throttle, but if I really floor it I seem to hit at like 4000 RPM or so what almost feels like a fuel cut, a wall if you will, the acceleration ceases. No odd noises come from the engine, no smoke or anything, it just feels funny. Some thoughts of what maybe could be going on... comment PLEASE! Fuel filter clogging? Air filter clogging? Coil crapping out, cant handle the volts of high engine load? Same deal, but with fuel pump, cant handle high load? Timing off? Vacuum line repluming messing stuff up ( changed FROM a vac line between the base of carb and the intake TO a vac line coming from the carb and going to the disty advance) Its carbed so I know its not a real fuel cut... but something is up... maybe it just needs adjusting though... I've been getting like 20-21 MPG city.

I took it off on my 87 GL like 2 years ago I think. No problems, I dont have emissions testing so I dont know how that changes that. But the car runs good, I get like 20 MPG though but thats my fault for not adjusting the weber properly.

I should be there, if anyone wants to see my lifted, but still not completed brat they are welcome to follow me home I'm running open class, not sure what time of day it is.

I have the garage, I have the hoist, but I have 2 project cars in line already and no time to even get THEM fixed! If I wasnt so busy I'd do the the replacement for you

The hood SHOULD be a straight swap since you have a 98+ If you have no spoiler on your trunk you will have to drill holes. If you have an L spoiler the holes may not match up... they didnt on my 98 L I just got an RS trunklid to replace the damaged L one anyway.

There is a hobart 135 at harbor freight for $379 Comes iwth regulator and stuff for the gas should I ever want to get some. There is a lincoln at home depot for like $325, but doesnt say anything about gas.

Well it turns out the buyer I had lined up for the brat needs a car, like now! and the brat just isnt ready now... still needs more metal work... so... Looks like I get to go buy myself a welder and learn to weld. I was probably going to look for a hobart or lincoln wire feed welder that plugs into normal outlets. One that has adjustable wire feed speed as well ad adjustable power output. Is chicago electric any good??? What have others used on their brats to fix the rust damage?? When I pick it up anyone in the portland area willing to show me the ropes of welding?? Do's and do not do's? Hell anyone got a unit they wanna sell used?? * Welding will be done as rust repair on an 82 brat in case you are wondering the nature of it.