Flowmastered87GL

Well I am still trying to button up what needs to be completed on my BRAT. Afew questions: I have the rear end partly taken apart right now because I am installing longer brake lines to the rear disks (because of the lift, dont wanna stretch anything, so I am using the hardlines from the stock drums) Anyway... I got new pads for all 4 corners of the brat today at Autozone. Also got some brake cleaner. I need to bleed the brakes also because the lines were removed on all 4 corners. Now... the questions start. I know I SHOULD get all the rotors turned but do I HAVE to?? After I get the second brake line bolted on what do I do next? Install all 4 corners of pads and THEN bleed all the brakes? Or do I do the rear pads then bleed the rears (I do know you start bleeding at the farthest from the master cylinder) then tranfer the jackstands up and do the front? Should I do a anything with the calipers? I saw a tub of caliper grease at autozone, but didnt buy it.

Which brand did you go with?? I am going to try Herculiner in my GL and BRAT (rockers and floorboards) To those who have done floorboards... is it really worth chipping out all that tar sheeting stuff? Like, do you have to?

For 1500 I bet you could get a 90-91 legacy AWD or a 93 AWD (with the 1.8 liter engine) Impreza. GL's are nice, but I've had ALOT of subarus (look at my signature) The 91 Legacy was the most fun to drive (2.2 liter, AWD, 5 speed and 180K on it) The 98 Impreza was the fastest AND got the best mileage. Also had a 2.2 liter engine AWD (4 speed auto though) and like 55K My 92 Loyale ran good after I got it tuned up, but it lacked the features my 87 GL has (map lights, decent door handles on the front doors (interior)) rear dome light in the cargo area. It had a 3 speed automatic and was a slug. But it got decent mileage. So... If you have 1500 to blow I suggest a 90-91 Legacy (without air suspension, unless you are willing to gamble on the risk it may go out, in which case swap in normal coil over parts) with a 5 speed. A 90-91 L wagon with AWD and a 5 speed with 150K or so miles is possible to find for 1500. Sometimes more, sometimes less depending on the history of the car.

Now you see why I bought my kit, alot less hassle. Of course if people didnt experiment with their own design, innovation wouldnt exist. I'm sure with some geometry you could calculate how long the steering shaft needs to be. Use the shaft as the hypotenuse of the triangle, you then make one of the legs 3 inches longer, so the hypotenuse will change, but not by the same amount. At 3 inches I dont see the need for connecting the lifting blocks. On the PK kit the rear mustache bar uses one big block for the 2 bolts to go through on each side. Ditto on the front cross member. A 3rd bolt is also introduced. For added strength I assume. I dont even want to try to figure out how to fab up the strut tops... I'm glad they came prewelded and marked for each side.

What are the stats on a Ford Escape?? Actually I think 15% is pretty good... you do something stupid yourself and have an accident alone, 85% chance you wont tip it! I bet most SUV's are a heck of a lot higher.

Thanks for taking / posting the pics Craig Yes as Jason said, the final color will be the OD green. So it will look kinda similar to Zap's green BRAT "Bob" Less green though as the chrome will remain on the bed (probably) and the drip rails. Rockers / Bed / Floorboards will all be herculined black and the underside will be undercoated (with cheap stuff probably) after the cancer is repaired. On the #1 picture you can see holes at the bottom of the tailgate. That was done to prevent further rusting of the tailgate, filler pieces will be welded in eventually. Look UNDER the tailgate though... not pretty. And the "jump seats" are actually the main seats, they are just being stored in the bed. Look familair Rob / Caleb? Yes it IS for sale, but a buyer is already lined up. So I get to finish it, play with it briefly, then sell it. Then build another one

Rusty vehicle, 6 people, swearing, broken bolts, lots of beer drank 1 month or so

Years, I dont know... someting like 88-91 probably, but thats a guess. No dual range, but you could get em 5 speed AWD with diff lock switch. All XT6's had 5 lug. All XT4's had 4 lug.

Well a little over a year after I purchased the brat and the PK Davis lift kit, my brat is finally back sitting on all 4 wheels. Of course those wheels are now wrapped with roughly 28" rubber Craig has pictures. I will hopefully have hold of them sometime tonight or tomorrow. Note that it didnt take a year to lift the brat, I only started the lifting process about a month ago. Worked 1 Monday, then kinda left it then finally got cracking again today. Very few issues with the front end. I still need to get the steering hooked back up though. Any hints on installing the steering shaft after the lift is already complete?? I got a suggestion of partially remove the column. Any other options besides dropping the cross member back down?? The 28"s are huge! I definitely need to do some major trimming. Not like I'd drive it anywhere now anyway, no steering and no brakes = bad

Ea82's depending on the model, the fuel filter varies in location Carbed: In front of the fuel pump in under the passenger rear seat (in front of the right rear tire) SPFI: In engine bay by drivers strut tower MPFI : Same MPFI Turbo: Same

my 87 has 294K, but a new engine my 88 GL had 266K, all original, all I had to do was replace a head gasket on it my other 88 GL had 225K, also had a head gasket, but it blew due to age my soon to be 86 GL (26X K) needs a new oil O ring in the head gasket (ok I like head gasket problems, they are easy for my to fix)

Good point about the sending unit... I know its not an EA71, but my silver turbowagon (that I left in Andrews garage for 3 months ) Had an analog sender and a digidash = oil light We installed the digi sender and it went away.

How thick is it?? I had some pretty thick carbon buildup on the tops of the pistons of one of my 88's. Some chemicals and a putty knife made quick work of them though. So... if the car has been run on crappy gas for a long time... seems pretty typical to me as most of the engines ive yanked apart have had over 200K My 87 engine was nice and clean inside cause it only has 35K in Japan + 80K here in the US

For those of you who know my car, it has a rather large CB radio in it. It used to be mounted to the center console to the right of the shifter, basically hanging down into the passenger footwell making the passenger seat unslidable. Well, after enough of Shannon asking that I remove the bracket and put it elsewhere I finally did. Since EA82 clocks never work and I had tons of slack in the antenna and power wires I decided to get creative. I removed the glove box, unplugged and popped out the clock, fished up the wires from the floor through the new dash hole, marked drilling points on top of the dash (on the big flat part) drilled, and screwed on the bracket. Now the CB sits up on the dash, is VERY sturdy as I ran the screws into the inner structure of the dash, not just into the padding and the wires protrude back into the former clock hole so the installation appears very clean. The microphone wire had to be routed under the unit then back around the right side of it (to help it stay away from the shifter) Pics to come. Shannon is just happy to have her legroom / kneeroom back again

I think a WRX setup may fit... Isnt that what "The Scooby" did to his MI wagon?? Take off parts should be plentiful and cheap on NASIOC.com

If its a 5 speed PM me when you wanna sell it... I'm in Portland

I think it took me like an hour to do the cable on my 87, maybe a little more. thats from unlocking the drivers door to walking off and throwing away the old cable. The hardest part was definitely on the pedal end.

Yes, the timing belts (as an end result) should be one at 12 o clock and one at 6 o clock. You can install them both at the same time that way, but I prefer to install the rear one first at 12 o clock, rotate the engine 360 degrees. The pully with the belt should now be pointing down. Then do the front one with it at 12. rotate another 360 degrees just to make sure everything is staying in time properly. Also... on each belt you are supposed to torque the pully to 12-18 ft lbs (kinda to preload the timing belt) before tightening the tensioner bolts... this is usually the reason that belts lose teeth, they are too loose. I think the repair manual should cover torquing the belts rather well. If not someone else can probably explain it more clear that I as I tend to ramble as I am right now

If you retain your cats I dont see why emissions would change much. Just put a cherry bomb in place of the old muffler or something and it shouldnt be too drastic of a change from stock.

Gonna put on a straight pipe?? Ej22's sound mean with no muffler :cool:

My brat has Orange! Oil pan, valve covers and air cleaner (has a carter weber on it) I dunno if its original, they told me its an Ea81 wagon engine. I painted my EA82 parts with old ford blue I think... kinda a powder blue, looks close but a little less green than I think Ea81's are supposed to be.

It may sound ghetto, but if you dont like the idea of just putting brown cardboard on your T tops try covering them with an adhesive shelf paper of your choice (the cardboard, not tops!) You could have woodgrain cardboard fillers if you wanted

I found an 87 wagon for $300 in hillsboro, needs some work, didnt have time to fully find out how good it was, but it started and moved under its own power and stuff. See my thread in the market place

When you get back, I should be done with school, so I can come down and take the tires and wheels off your hands (I'll mount em up here) and then we gotta get cracking on the brat, we still have half a lift and some metal work!

Sweet, are those the factory graphics on the side??