Flowmastered87GL

another thing that can cause overheating... a blown head gasket... when mine was blown exhaust gases got into the coolant stream and made it super hot. if I wasnt moving I had to turn off the car and I had to run the heater at all times.

Well today my 87 died on me... took me 5 minutes of fiddling to figure out the 15 amp fuse under the dash for the ignition circuit was blown and therefore keeping me from getting spark. A new fuse later and it fired right up. The car runs good now, but the tach jumps a bit (say from 3000 to 3250 or 3500) and also from 4000 to 4500... usually when I am accelerating hard under load. The car does NOT feel like its surging at all, its all just in the behavior of the needle. It had done this a couple of times before the fuse blew too. Now... when the fuse was blown I noticed that the choke wire had popped off and was sitting on the engine (grounding out probably...) (I soldered it on, when I got home so it hopefully will stay put) So... does the electric choke work off the ignition circuit? Did the fuse blow because of the choke wire? Or because the coil is screwing up (see specs below) or because of the disty? Specs on the car: 1987 GL 4WD 49 state model (no O2 sensor) weber 32/36 DFEV carb, clip on type disty cap (new), new rotor, new wires and plugs (all genuine subaru too) I belive its the original disty with 290,800+ miles on it. Coil is an accel yellow $27.99 type. Any guesses? I can handle the tach jumping as long as the car runs good... its just im scared its gonna blow the fuse again (I have 6 with me just in case though...) I know when the tach jumps in EA81's its usually time for a disty rebuild, but I've never heard about EA82's None of this EVER happened before I did the major tuneup (cap rotor and such)

http://www.pdxsports.com/photos/showphoto.asp?folder=200406_rallyx&photo=20040627_2081.jpg Not the best shot, I know SOMEONE out there got a pic of me sideways, I guess it isnt on this site :-\

The window I would say is kinda a grey area, I was allowed to run with a shattered area the size of a golf ball with cracks spreading out from it. It was located below the drivers side wiper... not sure if they would or would not let you run how yours is. They probably would though as long as the window isnt ready to fall out.

I'm scared to come up... I always break something... dunno if I would feel safe being that far from home... I guess if someone in the area had a trailer though... we could take it back and fix it should something happen. Still thinking about it...

Has anyone else ever had problems getting their new bolts to thread in on their EA81 lifts? We were lifting my brat and had moderate difficulty getting the 4 single blocks that hold the trailing arms started and and am having extreme difficulty getting the bolts that hold the big blocks for the mustache bar. I cant even get em to thread in with the block out! I am going to go to the hardware store and get a nut that fits the old bolt that came out and then run it over the new bolt to make sure the threads do indeed match. I am in no way implying this kit has problems, I am just wondering if others had difficulty with things such as this. The brat I am lifting DOES have some rust... so maybe all the fitment issues are rust related, who knows...

Too bad I DNF'ed in open class, my 2:05 was halfway decent! Stupid water line! Maybe next time it will hold together At least they let me go out at the start of PGT and run my 2 remaining laps as time only for practice.. mmmm muddy

Its hard to tell what difference it makes... on an SPFI I say leave it like it is. the car runs warmer than it used to (before it blew the head gasket that is.) When I did the head gasket replacement I changed the thermostat back to a factory 195 as opposed to the autozone 180, so that may be the only reason its warmer... not sure... thats why they say to do 1 thing at a time on certain things. All I know is the car can idle for 10-15+ minutes and not overheat, so I'm happy.

As some of you may know, last rallycross (a month ago) I broke a throttle cable, but was able to ghetto rig it enough to finish my 3 runs. This time during my first run the car started to get hot near the finish. I was able to finish but by the time I stopped steam was EVERYWHERE! I had deleted the preheat line to the base of the carb and stupidly used vac plugs clamped on. Apparently they werent tight enough because at 6000 RPM the water pump builds enough pressure to blast it off and cover everything under the hood with antifreeze. So... a new coolant line, a stud to PLUG the line with and 3 hose clamps later I have a hose again, but its internally blocked with that stud which is clamped in so it cant move... I was able to get in 2 more runs, but not for points, they were with the PGT croud (not open) so they wouldnt count. But I sure got to fling alot of mud because I was close after the water truck Makes me wonder... whats gonna break on the first lap of the NEXT rallycross

not sure how it was done... but I saw a pretty sweet setup today (on a GL-10 turbo sedan converted to 4WD) had an IC and everything... he had a black interior and somehow found a black XT 4WD shifter knob and used the button on top for an IC sprayer :cool:

Glad to hear you made it home ok Come on give Ty some credit... you will only need a clutch, not a clutch AND tranny

I didnt tell them I broke something, the car did, you could hear the cable pop... and since the idle was too low the car was unstartable without the cable on there... Its all fixed now though, Richie is changing the CV's and wheel bearings and it will be back up to 100% rally shape

Sweet :cool: Makes me want a Gen 1

for the recommendation against the DFEV... I just recently swapped to one from a DGEV for the very reason that the carb is backwards. On EA82's with power steering its by FAR the best way to go. Sure you lose a little power, but you gain a little mileage. Besides, since my throttle cable is no longer ghetto rigged I can now lay on it fully without fear of breaking it (had to go gentle at last rallycross) Now its foot to the floor!

Up until you said 2 car garage and 3 bedroom my place mighta fit that, its a 1 car garage and 2 bedroom, decent neighborhood because its hidden away behind an old folks home. you would be the 3rd USMB member in a 12 unit complex if you moved in I really dont know much about the other neighborhoods though, beaverton is strange.... my place is ok, but afew blocks down has TONS of car break ins...

Update on my carb situation, try to finish one up, but I ordered a brand spanking new one yesterday ($304 ) since I plan to drive the car for so many more miles... already arrived this morning (not bad, a 28 hour delivery!) I need to do afew things to get it mounted up but if all goes well the rally beast will be ready this next sunday.

Its all the trunk monkey Actually, for those who remember I was the VERY FIRST car out. I didnt even get the whole car over the start line and the throttle cable snapped. We had to push the car over to the side where I fixed it (took about 30 minutes) I then prompty returned to grid and was given 2 consecutive laps to try to catch me up. But more or less what happened is I got no 1st run, two 2nd runs and one 3rd run (in regards to course dryness) I did have the handicap of a very frail throttle cable (couldnt hit the gas 100%) so I think the results would have been pretty similar (overall, not per lap) had I had full throttle use and had been on a normal run schedule. I guess I just kinda got lucky in a way.

I'll be there in the silver wagon if the weber shows up and gets installed this weekend. Otherwise I may be rolling in someone elses rig as the brat still isnt fully repaired (dunno if tech likes rust)

Ok, Flow I'll send em your way once I get someone with a digicam out here. Rick, how can I get vise grips in there, the screw is down inside the rail so I cant just clamp it on sideways... maybe I could have it go head in, I'll TRY it, but I dont have alot of confidence in it... though... since I am scrapping the EA82 rails I guess I could cut the crap outta them to give the vise grips some room

www.carbsunlimited.com has some specs on the carbs... I may even order a DFEV from them, the prices seem better than local... Yes I belive AV is either a manual or water choke...

He's way up in Yakima though isnt he? I can install them myself now that I understand how to make the adapters, I just need to get those pesky screws off the GL-10 seats... I thought about maybe hacking away with them with a dremel til I can get a 6 pointed socket over them and then use a cheater pipe to break it loose... a screwdriver probably just wont cut it unless someone here has an idea.

I started tearing stuff apart today... but ran into a problem... I cant get the screws that hold the EA82 rails to the GL-10 donor seats off... my brat is rusty but the screws came out EASY on them.... the blue seats are decent shape but the screws arent budging.... ummmm I already broke an expensive Tamiya screwdriver trying to get em loose, my electric drill isnt torquey enough.... Dremel time??? any other ideas to get those pesky mothers off there?

all the questions are being asked because I have access to a COMPLETE 85 wagon pimp interior... door panels and all (power windows)

Ok, I think I understand the height adjustable seat diagram, looks as if the extra width is gained from the center console side then huh? - Mike

I have a set of 1987 blue GL-10 seats (with height adjuster) that I want to put into my gen 2 brat (an 82). What all is involved with the swap. I hear its easier than legacy seats, but is still not a direct bolt in. Which holes match and which dont? How much scrap steel should I have laying around? Just enough to make like 2 2 inch adapters? more?? Less?