Flowmastered87GL

Yes Albie is the same guy from AA.

Super easy fix. Swap just the door handle. A little harder. Get a new door skin and handle and move your stuff over to it (or just a whole door, but swapping everything over is NOT hard) No real reason to fix the 1/4 panel on a car this old and common. Check the alignment for sure (first thing actually) There are likely members here on the board that would swap stuff over with you pretty cheap on a weekend day. (I'd help if you were in Portland)

That Brat looks familiar... I think John Bloom / Mudrat may have worked on it at some point back in 2005ish If that guy paid $2000 for his lift he paid too much. All his cars in the ad looks like junk to me. That Prelude (not civic) is probably worth $500-1000 tops. The brat, nowhere near $4500... maybe $1500 on a good day?

My 82 brat with a carter-weber did it in 18 seconds. Not sure what the Baja does it in, but its pretty similar to the speed of an old GTi

Oh, I think I see the problem. So you appear to be leaking coolant from the carb base heater thingie. There is a line that comes from the block to the bottom of the intake (I think on the front). Its purpose is to heat up the base of the carb to help prevent ice (well so I have been told). What I did on my GL is take off the carb and adapter plate. Under there is a metal tube that comes up and into that hole that you see. I ground the hose down flush (it pops up a little)... I can't remember how deep I went with the dremel... I may have even gone a little deeper to give me more room to work in that hole in the intake coolant chamber. I filled that little coolant chamber with JB weld. It will need to cure for at least 24 hours to be safe. So that will cure your leak there if you put on new gaskets when you put it back together. Now... you don't really want coolant getting up there if possible so I got some universal hose (I think I used fuel line because its more reinforced) and ran it between the nipple on the engine block and the base of the intake. Before I installed it I got a 1 inch long metal stud of the proper size (about 1/4") and used a hose clamp to hold the stud in place in the middle of the hose. Do NOT try to just clamp a vac plug onto the nipple on the engine block... the car will blow it off (I tried it, it failed in a rallycross) I hope that all makes sense. Send me a text if you want more detail

Richie never had a shop in Vancouver... he has always been in NE Portland. Started I think on NE 42nd, moved to NE 82nd, then expanded to E Burnside, then moved the 82nd location to NE Sandy.

Its around here.... look at the satellite image. I have never been to the yard, but I have been on the street at work. 14000 SW Parmele Rd, Gaston, OR (that is NOT his address, but it gives you the basic idea on the map)

I don't go to HF tools much, but I did buy the $5.99 movers dolly (the little wood square with wheels) It is functional, but the wheels are terrible, so it left little skid marks on my floor because the wheels would not turn properly and would just skid across the floor sideways instead. Overall not recommended.

I ended up making my own on the GL. Find a sheet of gasket paper and trace around the adapter and cut it out with a sharp hobby knife. I used a very light coating of grey RTV on it too.

You will love the maintenance on the Subaru. So much easier to figure out things under the hood. My grandparents have a 5 series and I was checking fluids for them and it was near impossible to find what I needed under the hood. Plus any trips you decide to make to the dealer will cost about half as much. Perform the routine maintenance and I agree that you should get well over 200K out of it (if you keep cars that long)

Congrats!

Look at the upolstry on that 84??? Leone sedan! Has some kind of stripes and likely LEONE written on it.

Over 10 years ago I would pay $300-400 for one like this RUST FREE (though they are more common in Oregon) I think $1000 is way too much. The miles are irrelavant in my opinion as its still an old car and will still need head gaskets and all engine seals / hoses if you decide to rebuild it. The one hose you don't change when you have the engine out WILL CRACK AND LEAK. Thats not a GL-10 either... its just a turbo GL A GL 10 would have the upgraded interior, digidash and sunroof (and maybe surviving air suspension)

Back when I had my EA82 with power steering personally I thought the 32/36 DFEV fit better than the 32/36 DGEV (or you can slightly hammer the PS pump from what I hear to keep the choke from hitting it) The DGEV fit my 82 brat perfect though.

Most auto parts stores should have them. I assume they are the small rectangle sealed units?

Hmmm I would have just run the pipes up through a hole in the bed rather than cutting into the sheet metal on the side of the body.

Just because they installed a low mileage engine doesn't mean the head gaskets and hoses won't all blow up. They are all still old parts unless they can prove they resealed everything with the new engine. I wouldn't go over $500 for that car personally.

I don't see them on there either. I have seen pictures of them before but don't see them on the list. http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/wheels/wheels.html

Nice to know its being cared for... I remember seeing it the first time back at West Coast Subaru Show 3

My neck made up my mind for me. I can barely move it. No way I could survive the drive up there, putting up a tent AND sleeping on an air mattress. So I am not going to make it up there. I will try to hit one of the future events.

Well I at least hit one of the issues right.

I'm still mixed.... part of me really wants to get rest... the other part wants to just come and relax and chat and BS with other old schoolers (yes my Baja is new, but it has the heart of an old schooler (and a brat badge on the back)) so I am still flaky on coming.

I will throw in what I used on my 87 GL... I ran 20W50 under advice from my former mechanic (before Richie) to combat the tick of death. It worked but I am not sure if It contributed to the death of my engine or not. I bought the car with around 217K, swapped the engine shortly after that (JDM import engine) and got about 100K out of it before it blew up (when cold) It kept my oil pressure up for sure.... but I doubt it flowed very well when cold. Not sure if I would recommend it or not. Maybe the oil killed it, maybe the years of rallycrossing and pizza delivery killed it. It died at around 321K though.

No one mentioned it, its likely not the issue but at least something to look at. There is a long style water pump and a short style. I forget which goes to which model but if you had the wrong style on there your pully may be in the wrong spot which would cause your belts to be out of line... again likely NOT the issue as you would probably notice that the belts were way out of line. Regarding your fan, are all the blades still intact?? (I'm thinking if it was off balance maybe I would eat up the pully) If you still have your old water pump I would also double nut the studs out of there and move them to the new one. (if that makes sense)

Hmmm I never had an EA81 with a good heater (both brats too so its not like they had much cab to heat) Guess both of mine needed work. Ya I would just order the heater core off the internet... screw the local parts stores if they won't help you.