Flowmastered87GL

My car heats just fine (when the belts arent slipping) I find that when they slip enough that the voltmeter is reading 10.5 volts that the water pump really isnt turning fast enough to pump water through the heater core properly. and this morning I found out the hard way that the battery wasnt getting charged enough at that rate... the battery is dead I had to walk a mile in the snow to get my Impreza to go out and buy groceries today

Dont worry about the trip computer not working. Everytime I disconnected the battery on my turbowagons I would lose it until it was able to think for afew miles.

Another thought... If you are gonna swap the dash, why not install an analog dash? Its gonna be alot of work either way so might as well have something that consistently works well.

Sweet, you got the 315K car from Hood River eh? My 86 GL-10 (remember the one I blew like $1800 total on ) hit redline pretty fast. The beeper came on afew times for me, but no shift up light either. The dash that Andrew was referring to with all those things you can see when its apart was mine cause my dash sucked.

I know Sean (at rallitek) Yes Matt, Sean built the (estimated 160 HP I hear) RX that was fast at the rallycrosses. I wanted to buy it, but couldnt afford to buy the whole modified package

I couldnt make it. I was on the road getting parts and busy getting evicted from an apartment I dont even rent (see "here's to accomplishments" thread a little later when I have time to tell the story)

hmmm if he doesnt take that long block I may John (hmmm any chance you could drop my rear disk brakes and wheels at Jasons house if you are up there? , Andrew said he sent your money down to you with Austin) Anyway if he doesnt take the long block I would like to ask for second in line. My GL is loosing coolant somewhere and I fear a head could be bad It would be nice to toss in a new block while I do a diagnosis. (is this considered hijacking? Its on the same topic)

I'll ask Eric (off of NASIOC) where he had my Impreza pulled. The guy did a good job on the straightening (but left alot of finish work for Eric to do before selling the car to me) The price was good though

I have driven many different subarus with differing clutches. If its so still that its hard to push to the floor there may be a problem. The one in my car is stiff, but the one in hondasucks turbowagon is WAY stiffer. Try disconnecting the hill holder cable (goes from the brake booster to the clutch fork) and that may make it easier. you probably should install some sort of weaker spring on there in its place though as the hill holder partly acts as a clutch return spring. These cars should not take 30 seconds to get to 60, the engine maybe screwed or the carb needs adjustment. 0-60 time should be more in the 10-12 second range for carbed models. Not fast, but faster than a Yugo

It should be the short water pump. I remember putting a short water pump on my 86 turbowagon (I later replaced it) and it had factory AC and to make the belts line up I had to put a couple washers between the pump and pully. Therefore from my mistake we can figure out this... factory AC cars have studs and a long pump. NON AC cars have holes and a short pump.

I have a 98 impreza L that the KBB value is like 7300. Thats with a "fair condition" which it assigned because the car runs and drives like new but was rear ended and rebuilt The only place you can see the repair evidence is in the spare tire well, the curve isnt perfect. But walking by it on the street or loading groceries in the trunk it looks perfect. You can only see things when you yank the trunk carpeting. Oh, and I am getting like 5995 for the car so 1300 less than book value which I feel is a number fair for both me and the buyer

hmmm i seem to remember the xt6 at WCSS3 having those on it. the first look best for side hills (i would assume anyway) cause of angle of the lugs. The second set looks better for forward traction. Either look sweet though.

interesting... i know you already modded the turbo for off road, but ask anyone which they guessed was the offroader of the 2 and i bet most would guess the turbo is for the street and the dl is for beating up off road.

Make me an offer on my Impreza rear wing. Its the sedan style, looks kinda like the factory wing on WRX's (not STi's or 98-01 RS coupes) Here is a picture of it when it was still mounted on the car (sorry the pic doesnt show a whole bunch) but it should give you a decent idea at least. After I am sure I am paying for an RS wing for the car (trunk is already drilled for an RS wing anyway) I will part with this one for whatever you see fit ($20 or more hopefully)

I know... but I swear I heard of someone having a turbo coupe with a stick from the Factory (probably special ordered) Richie??? But yes I know the typical turbo unless its some special ordered one will be an auto.

Call Mr. Plow, thats my name, that name again is Mr. Plow :santa:

Just yank the radiator. I highly recommend changing the water pump seals, I have experienced lots of water pump leaks in my car. I am just going to break down and buy another new pump even though mine is only 5 years old. Then again I guess its not made for service above redline (7000 RPM or so) The reason that chaning the timing COVER gaskets only helped a little: For the oil to leak out of there it has to get IN there somehow... therefore the oil pump crank or cams are leaking so they need to be changed. The timing belts are old enough to change. Other items you may want to change also: The o ring that goes in the side of the water pump where the tube to the radiator exits as well as the 90 degree bent hose that goes rearward to the heater hoses.

Lets throw in another variable... EA81T wagons... "Turbo-10" Ive seen 2 of them in my life, both red wagons with turbos and auto trannys

EA82... I am running 140's (they came with the kit) I AM running a fuel return line Stock fuel pump 29 MPG or so on the freeway.

Ya I wasnt expecting anything, but it didnt hurt to ask :santa:

Personally... if you really think the block is in good shape I'd just get the heads done and and do all the seals and stuff... then again thats because I dont know how to tear the engine down beyond the short block. Just TO it. 200K eh? Its still a baby

Hey I live in Beaverton, I want a dyno run :-) But my car is webered... engine management wont do squat for my car

I am 100% positive that that is the heater blower motor resistor. As you begin to lose speeds (say like 1 and 2 dont work... its because of that little guy) You may want to grab a handful of them from the junkyard as sometimes they like to break if you just look at them funny. I have replaced 2-3 in my day and had mixed luck. My 87 I got a perfect one. For my 87 turbowagon I think I got one that had all but 1 speed working. My 88 had a speed or 2 out, but I never got around to changing it.

Its very typical that the clocks dont work.. I remember test driving my car 6 years ago... we tested the horn and the clock magically came on :cornfuzz: the clocks can cut in and out for the oddest reasons. Its no big deal. Good luck finding one that works... alot are bad, but there are afew good ones out there.

Fix Tell me if the link doesnt work :-) Oh, by the way loyale cargo covers are slightly different than GL covers, so you may need to do a thing or 2 different. So if the instructions seem impossible you may need to find a new method.