Flowmastered87GL

At least the lift kit and stuff is sturdy though

Yep Richie is the man His logon name is "RichieRich" so you can search for him on the board that way.

are you at 60 or 120K? You probably just need to trip something under the dash

It only takes like an hour to yank the front seats, console and carpeting. Its not that hard. Of course cutting the bolt off would add some time. Maybe try the bigger bolt idea first... if that fails then it may be worth yanking the interior in an afternoon.

not that I know of. I have seen the car twice (at WCSS3 and 5) The car has (I think an EA81) with dual carbs. I know it has dual carbs, but not sure if its a 16 or 1800. I think it has an airplane cam too. I think the guy said it makes like 110-120 HP, but its been a while. I know he wasnt happy when he didnt get best modified EA81 at WCSS5. I think it went to Ken (I think) and his brat or Unhatched (I think he just won "best modified subaru period" of any class) Yes that hatch is 4WD... its a lowered 4WD hatch... why, well I dunno, but it still is nicely done :-)

They really dont apply JUST to this car, I think they would fit any car... BANSUVS HNDASUX

Hmmm I'm trying to remember... its been a while since ive removed my carpet/seats... But there may be some access in there, but not much. I know its a raised rib of some sort thats welded to the floor. You may need to remove the rear seat heating ducting (black plastic stuff) after yanking the carpeting, but I'm pretty sure you could get down in there to fix that nut.

which bolt?? front left or right or rear left or right? you may have to resort to breaking off the bolt head, then yanking the seat AND carpet then replacing the nut. (if there is a nut, some of the holes may just be threads in the floorpan) I'm willing to help someday that I'm free after I finish my college project and my Loyale tranny swap

I didnt know that 86's didnt have the checkered seats :cornfuzz: I thought that 85-86's both had the checkered seats and belts

I dont know about other pizza drivers but when I am looking for an address I go 25 or less.

I think there is like a screw on the throttle body or something that you can turn to raise it.

Exactly! Thats why I asked that all the seals be kept on them. I go through LOTS of puddles on undeveloped side streets delivering pizza and my car needs all the protection it can get

If you can keep them to $50 or less I will take a set Make sure they are compatable with the little rubber gaskets that go on the covers. (theres alot of em!)

I believe its XSNRG that is bringing stuff down from Tumwater. I'd offer to help but I'm in portland so that doent help much

If I woulda known it would straighten up that nicely with just a frame rack I woulda bought it when Jerry offered it to me :boohoo:

Actually in a junkyard I swear I saw a hardtop with round lights :cornfuzz:

I am SOOO glad we dont have inspections up here in Oregon. Time to move West

Hmmm the idea of only letting members make a 4th run.... I would be a member in a second!!! It would be worth it to get 25% more run time (or would it be 33%??) each race.

Wow sounds just like my car (the 87 GL). I'm gonna try replacing my gear oil, its been like 6 years since I've done it. CV's, well mine are ok, though the boots are starting to get old, maybe one finally gave up and let something in (stupid cat makes the boots crack early) My bet is wheel bearings though. My bearings made noise for a while in the summer, then went away in teh fall, now they are really loud now (well if that is the mysterious noise anyway)

that would be awesome if it was the water pump, that would be such an easy swap compared to yanking the engine. (pump was last done about 4-5 years ago) I dont think the O ring was changed, im not really sure though I had a shop do it back then. Actually, the water pump idea kinda makes sense, maybe the higher RPM's of driving keep it spinning fast enough, but its crapped out enough that it doesnt move enough water to keep the car cool when idling.... that and its probably leaking somewhere too.

Take the PCV valve back, trust me. Most non subaru ones let the engine suck oil You then could end up with the "smokes when turning right" problem.

Ok my GL is starting to bug me. If I dont keep moving the car likes to overheat because its always low on coolant. I am not sure where it disappears to (I dont SEE any drips under the car, but with it raining all the time right now I really havnt checked much) I have not gotten the temp above 75% of the way to the red so I havn't totally cooked it or anything. I figure the coolant loss could be due to any of the following: Hose leaking (though they were all replaced by me like a year ago) Leak from base of carb/top of intake (it HAS done this before) Head gasket Cracked head Intake gaskets (new as of WCSS5) Hole in radiator (its only 5 years and like 60K old though) My temporary solution is just to carry afew gallons of 50/50 mixed (cheap) coolant with me until I find out where its all going Thanksgiving I will put it in my parents garage and top it off then run it without the skid plate to see if I can see where its going It could be steaming it out the exhaust, though in the winter most all cars have a little cloud behind them. And only intermitently. Well my car has an intermitent cloud, sometimes not there, sometimes kinda big. One more thing... sometimes the idle changes a bit, (like maybe water is dripping down into the intake or something) Would water going from the head to the combustion chamber change it too?? or would it have to be dripping in at the intake? When I keep the coolant topped off or keep moving the car stays nice and cool, it just heats up when its low and not moving (duh) Its WHERE the coolant is going thats puzzling me. I'm so confused :cornfuzz: The engine will more likely than not be yanked and torn down, but any guesses on what it could be??

Ahhhh one reason why I really dont like convertibles, no structural ridgidity Personally I dont see why he got fired for opening the door. Any normal car it would be ok to open the door, VW shoulda made the frame stronger and not relied so strongly on the doors :-p

IF the hose wont come off just break it off. I broke mine back at 216K and it was full of crap and was hard as a rock. The $5-7 for a new genuine subaru one is worth the money. Make sure you get a genuine subaru PCV valve too, the FRAM ones suck. Oh ya, it may be a pain to get the valve out too, you may have to break out a cheater pipe or something. Just be careful not to hurt the intake. Penetrating lubricant is your friend here WD40, or whatever.....

Quite honesty I could manage open class. I ran in it once (at Hood River I think) I didnt get first, but I had fun and got like 6th or something, not bad for a sub 100 HP car running against cars with crazy amounts of power. Of course its been said before... its the driver not the car, but a good driver in a 67Hp justy and they will still drive circles around a 165 HP 2.5RS