Dennis

Here are some pictures of what I did to remove my A/C (while using the original belt): img_0773.jpg img_0774.jpg I removed the upper and lower brackets from the A/C compressor, then installed them on the car like normal, minus the compressor. The upper bracket only had one bolt that mounts to the intake manifold, so to take some stress off of it I cut a pipe to the exact height of the compressor, then placed it between the upper and lower bracket, and ran a bolt through it. It seems to work ok, but I haven't driven the car much since I did it.

Thanks for the replies so far. =) The plugs are brand-new, but the wires are questionable. I just realized that I can try the plug wires off my dead '88 SPFI, which I know to be good. I'll try checking out the distributor, but I know very little about its operation and I'm not sure I'll be able to figure anything out.

I'd need a timing light to check the timing, right? I didn't remove the distributor when I pulled the camshaft carrier out--just left it on and realigned the timing marks on the cam sprockets when I installed the new timing belts. If I rotated the distributor either direction a little bit to see if it improves, would that be a good indication that it's the timing? Considering that it ran just like this before I took anything apart, I don't think it was anything I introduced while replacing the timing belts and head gaskets. I forgot to mention that the car idles perfectly, and seems ok until I really get into the gas. Even if I gently press the gas pedal and slowly increase it, it still maxes out at around 4,000 RPM. At lower RPMs, it *seems* normal, but at higher RPMs OR under any load at all, it fizzles out, but never dies.

I've got an '87 GL Wagon (EA82 carbed, 5-speed D/R swap) that, when I bought it, I thought it had a blown head gasket--it barely had power to move the car at any speed. I replaced the head gaskets, and did new timing belts and all other gaskets while I was at it, but the severe lack of power still persists after all that. When at a standstill, in neutral, I stomp on the gas pedal, the RPMs will go up to about 4,000 and just hang there. When in first gear on level ground and I stomp on the gas, the car will barely get up to 10 MPH before leveling out--won't go any faster. My question is, where do I start troubleshooting the problem? My first guesses were either something wrong with the carb, or bad coil/distributor/plug wires/etc. I can't afford to just start replacing things trying to find the problem, so what's a good starting point? I know next-to-nothing about what to test and how to do it.

There's a junkyard near Spanish Fork, Utah, that has more than a dozen EA82s, and about half of those are turbo. I've gone there quite a few times to grab parts for my '88 wagon. Of course, both of my Subarus are dead and soon-to-be parted out, so I'll have no shortage of parts for when I replace them with yet another one.

My guess would be just a worn spring. I don't think the strut can get stuck in the compressed position, so it'd have to be the spring.

3AT also comes in 3.90. I've got an '87 GL wagon that used to have a bad auto trans, but I just got done swapping a 5-speed D/R into it, but luckily it had the 3.90 rear end so that was one fewer thing I had to swap.

This page has pretty much everything you'd want to know about the PCV system.

My '88 wagon (maroon, no less ) did the same thing--in fact, driving uphill would result in the dash vents blowing, and downhill the defrost vents would blow. I never bothered tearing into the dash to figure out what the problem was, though at least I made sure the vacuum hose was connected underhood. Let us know if you find anything out, I might be able to fix mine too. =)

I did some more work on my 5-speed D/R swap today, and it's damned near complete. It took me more than six hours over the course of three days to remove the pedal assembly from my '88 Subaru (the donor for the manual trans), but after getting the hang of how it's removed, it only took me 20 minutes to remove the same assembly from the '87 Subaru (it really helped removing the seat and dropping the steering column). After getting them both out, I realized that I'd have to reuse the assembly from the '87 anyway. The '88 is fuel injected, while the '87 is carbureted, so the '87 has an extra bracket welded to the pedal assembly that holds some sort of switch for when the throttle is wide-open. The problem with reusing that assembly is that the one from the '88 also has an extra bracket welded on that acts as a stop for clutch pedal. To remedy that, I drilled a hole where the bracket should have been and simply put a bolt through it, which now acts as a clutch pedal stop. The only unknowns left now are which wires to jump in order to trick the ignition into thinking the car is in park, and how in the heck to wire up some reverse lights? I'm not too great at electrical stuff, so hopefully one of you will be able to explain it to me--either that, or maybe my Chilton's manual can help, but I doubt that.

The pitching stopper is a rod that mounts at the rear of the engine on one end and just under the spare tire holder on the other end. There's a bushing on either end that could be worn, and it should be easy to check visually. If yours is bad, you should be able to pick one up dirt cheap from a junkyard. North Ursalia is right, the pitching stopper isn't really adjustable. There's a little bit of play where it connects to the bracket on the rear of the engine, but that probably won't do you any good.

Here is the old thread on the issue.

The wiper motor is located under the hood on the very top of the firewall, driver's side. As for manual gear oil, 80-90W oil should do the trick.

Not all autos have 3.7 gears (at least on EA82s, and I'm pretty sure it applies to EA81s too). I'm in the middle of a 5-speed D/R swap, since my '87 GL wagon had a bad automatic trans, but it also has 3.9 gears. So I didn't have to swap out rear-ends, but the front-end was pretty much shot on the '87, so I'm in the process of removing the strut/steering knuckle/axle/tie rod assemblies and replacing them with good parts from my '88 GL wagon (manual trans, blown engine).

I believe the part you are referring to is called the "lower control arm." I'm not certain about which years/models you can get it from, but my guess would be pretty much any EA82.