StormTrooper

Well, In my case the axel actually broke into two, so it saved me the pain of having to loosen up the suspension to get the axel off. I got under there, drove the axle pin out, and pulled it, then drove it in 4WD. works great..least it did for me when I needed to. No noticicable difference in suspension. The front stub spins at the speed it needs to with no rsistance to the back wheels, so there's no binding effect. At least on my oprn diff.

I've put 5000 miles in rear wheel drive on my loyale! The front axel broke one day, so I yanked it and kept going..and going..and going...The best for thAT was huge gravel lots or muddy grass...

I had my front left axle blow out on me when I was getting off the freeway. It had been clicking big time for a few weeks, and then the rain came... Luckily, it still held the shaft into the cup, so when I drove, the shaft did'nt fly around clipping brake lines and etc.. I put it into four wheel drive, and drove it to work, where I drove the axel pin out and remnoved the axel in three minutes since i didnt have to loosen any suspension components. I have been driving a rerar-wheel drive wagon since (man are donuts fun!)

Not sure how this applies, but I know that the Datsun 510 guys steal our LSD rear ends and use 'em, so maybe theirs a possibility there..

Yup, got one those, pretty much the same one you're looking at. Had it since 64k, amd due to my lack of care or knowledge at the time, ignored the timing belts till they popped when I was on the highway. Thankfully subaru timing belts are a non-interference belt! That was around 100k, so if that one has been timing-belt neglected, it'll let ya know about it real soon, im guessing. i concur about running a compression test, because even running it hot for a few minutes can damage the gaskets or crack a head quickly, and if they're not on top of changing timing belts, chances are they weren't too good at keeping the cooling system in tip-top shape either...

As excited as I am to go snowboarding, and as much as I want to meet up with you guys, my new electrician job demands a full work day througout the week, so my obligations are to that... If you guys cant scrape together the funds to hit the snow, Hollister Hills is open for some serious muddin', and I get off around 2:30 but seriously, if there's a snowball's chance in hell that I dont have to work on tues, I'm in.. Jared--You're still welcome to stop by on your way home, for a hot meal and a beer...Plus I'd like to check out this rig of yours...

Yeah the stuff I made it through at hollister hills impressed even me...My project car isnt even legal, so I'll be bringing the old Loyale...hey what's the date on that sac run anyway guys?... Look foward to meetin ya Jared..:cool:

GD said it for sure..if you get as far as into the heads and are cleaning lifters, its one of those "While we're at it.." jobs where you basically end up overhauling the heads...try servicing the oil pump first, and keep putting in fresh oil and additive..

subarubrat does... his site:http://www.subarubrat.com

message boards are like playin telephone...the truth eventually gets lost in the passing of info...what can ya do?

You are correct about the year and make of honda to get the springs, but they are off the front strut springs and are used as the rear springs of the EA82, at least thats what rallyruss, the d00d that discoved this mod did. dont think they can be used up front, but that wouldnt be the first time russ has jammed my foot in my mouth...

yo bri, january is a creepin fast, and theres a PLETHORA of mud down here in hollister...excuses are gettin slim here, fella... its cool to see all these cali heads poppin up from the woodworks..

first off, welcome to the board!..I myself am a californian, was just up in tahoe two days ago..I was amazed at how the subes outnumbered pretty much everything else! Anyway, I have had similar problems with my motor, and have noticed that changing the oil a few times and using additives every time tends to make the noises go away eventuall. These noises are often times attributed to gunky lifters that cant pump up the oil pressure they need to fuction properly (in which case the additive works), or a bad oil pump seal which would require some time in the garage... anyhoo, get a service manual and some hand tools and see if you can tackle the oil pump seal on your own, and keep changing the oil and using a quart of additive... my .02

are you asking how much hp that will make, or how to make more? I'm guessing it will make around 90 hp with it all said and done, but the better throttle response will make it feel like more. if you want to find more parts for more hp, such as cams or whatever, theres a bunch of aviation sites that make ea81t parts: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/airsoob/links good luck...

im impressed so far. Liked the consice, straightfowardness of the site. Look foward to wheelin with you in the future, when my project is complete...

you got mail

doh!! Damn those goblins!! I wake up screaming sometimes...

i remember qman saying something about loyale seats fitting into EA81s..

NONSENSE POOPYPANTS!! sorry. couldnt contain it

Yo, i was wondering if you had any more of those subarubicon tapes or dvds around...id like two of either, preferably one of each... dprasmussen@msn.com

ditto to GD.. Here's some food for thought...If you don't plan on having over two passengers in your car at a time (you got your wagon for utility/fun purpose, right?) then you can do this: Rip out the rear seats, and design a box that would contour to make the rear cargo platform extend to right behind the seats, then you wouldn't have that awkward dip where the back seat is mounted. This would make for a flat rear cargo area, make for a cozy sleep area, and provide a cool sotrage area all in one...

I have been a victim of rear end goblins that have driven me nuts, and the wierd noises were attributed to a loose castle nut that ended up causing play in the stub axel, which eventually made a lot of heat and ate through the bearings and into the control arm. if the bearings werent pressed in all the way, you can think that you tightened the castle nut all the way sown, when in fact the stub axel wil still have a certain amount of play.

try romoving the wheel, hub, axel nut etc..and see if there's play in the stub axel (spindle) that is inside the rear control arm. let us know what you find. good luck,

It will probably be cheaper to get a junkyard knuckle than go through the madness of a bearing swap. I've done both, and with the subes, I usualyy roll the dice at the junkyard and come out happy with the results. if the castle nut has been loose long enough, It is not uncommon for the bearing race to disintegrate and cause enough play for the bearing housing to get damaged in which case you'll need a new knuckle anyway.

sounds like a kick rump roast car youre buildin. I've seen rallyruss' car with the honda springs, and that rear end is tight! Its boosted a bit, and its sitting stiff. I think he found a very impressinve upgrade. That along with impreza front struts sounds like a nice combo...