StormTrooper

i know that window wasn't open for all that..

If you want to maximize torque, and are going the carb route, you will have a disty that can be recurved, which can account for over 10 lbs. ft. torque

I want that spare tire holder on the rear... Damn that ea71 be chargin'....

mudrat said there are similarities between the front diffs from a legacy's 4.11 diff and the 3.9(3.7?) Ea82 diffs. But some machining would be in the works, and for a custom job like fabbing a pinion gear with the proper shaft length would cost $$$.

lemme get some off your back, brudda. I want two videos or 1 video and 1 dvd. Let me know if you still have copies available. What about putting up an ad in an Off-Road mag? Might not cost too much. Or possibly making posters with a gnarly shot of a leg-lifter and a web link, and sending them to various Sube Dealerships. They usually put cool posters near the Parts counters. my e-mail: dprasmussen@msn.com hit me a snail mail addy..

Good luck NVZ! What resort are ya hittin? or are you a savage backcountry guy? I'll do a snowdance for ya!

Early January would be a great time to get some wheeling/boarding in, as im out of school...Junkie, I'll contact you on a monday night this month soem time to see if you can squeze in a daytrip to the slopes. Roo-you too, man. The more the merrier. When that rig of yours is complete, I gotta see how it does, as i'll be going big with my wagon as well.

Hell ya, Jared...Glad youre manifestin the project. I'll be sendin my roo up his way when the dough is in order. You gotta stop by Hollister on youre way home, or i'll be bummed..

You're not crazy, just highly optimistic! I want to somehow stuff a 4.44 front diff from a newer gen soob into an oldschool tranny, and of course use a welded rear 4.44 pumkin with oldschool stubs to make for kick rump roast gearing. The prob, as mudrat described exists in getting some parts machined for the front diff. You would need a custom pinion gear shaft to make it work (i think) That to me would be the easiest way to get good gearing for a lifted soob with big ol knobbs. That's why some have done the nissan t-case swap, which entails an entirely contorted drivetrain. Not bashin it, it just seems like a lot more that can go wrong, but I'd like to see the setup first hand. I think a locked front end on a sube would warrant some serious steering issues...

Hollister Hills is definately the shizznit...getting air out of the water hole was fun, but climbing that hill was even funner! Yo Renn man, i lived in los osos for awhile and went to cuesta coillege, where i met my wife-to-be! What do you do in SLO-town? she used to live in california and foothill at the tracks... If you come up to Hollister Hills, I'll come down to Pismo! We should definatley do a "Cali-Run to the Hills" day followed by a "Pismo duning" trip shortly thereafter... woohoo

slap it into 4WD and drive it as a rear wheel drive for a bit. Wont hurt it as long as you dont do it for a long time. My front diff shed teeth and binded one time, rendering the front drive useless, but by slapping it into 4wd, it drove across three cities to get home...

no permanent damage?

all hopped on adrenaline after hitting some crazy trails at hollister hills, I decided to jump right off of a huge ridge. there was nothing fancy or cool about the leap, I just accelerated tp about 30 mph, and went right off the edge. I then proceeded to stuff the front end into the ground so hard, that i smashed the skidplate into the oil pan, bending the pickup inside the pan, crumpling my unibody frame, so my fan got shredded to bits by the now instrusive kink, and set my steering rack askew..ahh still runs:headbang:

my boy rallyruss has the accord springs on his Ea82 wagon, now, and it looks boosted! it is tight back there too...not sure the year..

I have a fabbed tool that was used for this job. Its a socket with tabs welded on it, and a T-bar. let me know if you need it.

I hit A buck O' three in the 1600 wagon!! (downhill) It was at 5 3/4 rpm, so i let off... My spfi loyale did 105-110 tops, and that was pedal to the metal for a minute or so! Wit the 15" pugs and street tires, it says 95 now, but i don't think thats right...

Exactly what mine did. If the stub axel has play, it is likely that it's not the bearing itself that is worn, but the housing for the bearing which is the control arm itself. The only thing that solved this problem for me was to replace the entire control arm/stub axel unit. The drum was extremely difficult to remove on that side because there's been a lot of pressure on the hub, by having play in the axel. I think this probelm initaially develops from an under torqued castle nut... two pennies in the well...good luck

I had a loose axel nut for a while, that caused the axel to disintegrate the wheel bearing, which eventually ate into the housing tof the bearing/stub axel, in which case i had to replace the entire control arm. So make sure that axel nut is torqued down good, as the cotter pin may be driven into the axel stub at a few turns shy of the desired tightness... good luck

That's great news, russdogg:headbang: Dood told me that he got em both running today, but that they defonatley need to be trailered. Wonder what that means..gotta call him. But yeah, sometime this week, lets go check em out. Could you tow, if i throw down $$ on gas, or is the yota not up to it? I got a couple o buddies with p/ups but no trailer, so we can do it that way too....

thanks for the advice, Ed. That's what I was looking to hear...Will definatley throw some WD-40 in the toolbox when I go up.

Check the brakelines- that's a good one... Stale gas does have a very disitnct smell, youre right...i'll bring some gas too.. Hey Ed, what does the wd-40 in the carb do? I've seen my friend spray some carb stuff n the carb when he was out of gas, and it fired right up after not gettin the fuel gor awhile, what up with that?

Thanks for the heads up, the mouse nest sounds like a nasty one!! my stepdads friend couldn't get his old 64 impala to start, and when it finally did, a crap load of nuts (from rodents) went flying out of the dual exhaust!! Dude said he could probably get them started..if he cant i hope i can..anyway, this is a score..I'm trading an old computer for two ea81'a!!! :headbang:

Alright guys, I am getting two soobs in the next coupla weeks that have sat for over a year, and the guy says they no longer run. one's an '85 hatch, the other's an '82 wagon. A year is relatively short amount of time in "stationary soob" time. I'm wondering what I should bring up there to see if i can drive away with one, as making two trips towing sounds no fun. Here's what I came up with: set of wheels/tires, inflated to reg. psi (or a compressor) battery water oil These cars were both running before they were parked. So there shouldn't be much that could go wrong in year of sitting, right?

Pretty sure 14" steels are a lot easier to come by than the 15" steels. The Pugeout 504 later model cars had the wierd washer/lug setup that made it annoying or less desireable than the 505 rims. The pug rims are mostly ball seated rims, so the pug lugnuts are necessary to avoid vibration that can be caused by using the conical tapered acorn lugnuts that soobs use. I got 15" alloys from a Pugeout 505 Turbo, and I paid $60 for four, with all four caps and all the lugnuts at the junkyard....

Little FYI- Honda accord springs will give you a couple of inches of lift if you use their rear springs in the subaru assembly...