StormTrooper

With a little reaffirmation from Dr.RX, and the technical expertise of RallyRuss,we put an XT4 steering rack and tie-rod ends into my Loyale. So if anyone is curious about the XT4 steering rack swappability into an EA82, it is possible. There are different part numbers for the racks, and I conlcuded that these are the differences: XT4 rack is a little bit bulkier in some areas. Steering ratio seems different...maybe tighter... Sems to require less steering to complete same turn as wagon/sedan rack I tentatively say maybe because I only drove it home, and not since... The position of the steering rack is slightly askew, as after I stuffed my front end good, I've had a tight spot in my steernig, and the steernig knucle u-joint bind a little bit, which was not remedied by the new rack..no good.:boohoo:

you should have seen me in the J/Y...Didn't realize the nuts were spot welded on the bumper...shaved my knuckles, yelled and buymped my head, broke all four nuts off their welds, had a helluva time finding where the bolts were located, I caould have sworn they were somewhere secret...Then accidentally found where they were located, and then felt incredibly smart! I wouldn't wish that experienmce on anyone, but I'm sure we've all done some smart stuff when it comes to fixing/screwing with cars... good luck Trogdor. (cool name...is your name Rodgor T?)

DAmn, just bought a steering rack, skidplate, oil pan, strut assembly on thurs for $100...had to work this weekend Good chit, brian. Shoulda puled the motor and trans from that turbo legacy...could've had quite the project on your hands..

Don't remove the cover!! If you are swapping complete bumpers, removing the cover will get you no where...If you are swapping covers for aesthetics, then go right ahead. But if you removing the whole bumper, you need to get at it from inside the hood. Pretty sure you need to remove the battery to get in there, or, its just very close. On both sides of the body under the hood are two 17 or 19mm bolts..Do not make the mistake i made and break the nuts that are spot-welded onto the bumper off, it will cause a slightly more intense headache...It should be very simple...just unscrew four bolts from under the hood, and Voila!! Good Luck

I think one caa accomplish those high hp ranges by mixing the know-how of the junkyard/machine shop antics of most soob-heads, and the pristine engineering of the airplane freeks... Ken, if I'm not mistaken, the amount that you shave on the head should be dependant on the type of cam grind you do, as shaving the head X-amount will adjust the valve geometry that is influenced by the Y-amount of cam grinding...So wouldn't the amount of shaving that the heads need totally depend on what you're looking for in terms of low-end torque, or top-end HP? I'm truly all concept here, as I have only recently begun to research what's needed to acheive what's desired out of the EA engines...

Yeah, it's a cool feature....if you need marker lights when the car's off, thatr' what the switch on top of the steering column is...(or is that only on loyale's??) I've developed quite a "Day Time Lights" Syndrome because of it,k but that's proven to be more effective in preventing an accident, so it's all good...

all of your ideas are very valid, and actually match the same research i have done myself...go check out this links of airplane sites, you will be amazed by the plethora of knowledge and business' that cater to building your own Sube performer... http://groups.yahoo.com/group/airsoob/links

Consider this: Look up the RAM Performance Webpage, they have tons of EA81 airplane stuff...the guy sells kits for springs, lifters, valves etc...Order the relatively cheap spring/valve kit, that has the wider bore, then take the heads into a machine shaop, and have them bore the single port holes to match the valves...that will definatly give you a substantial gain W/o all the cost...

instead of harpin on the guys who have never been here before, we can have a FAQ link that has all the threads that are commonly asked...So when a new user signs up, they can see in big bold letters "Frequently Asked Questions" or "Look here before you Post.." just a thought

what size lift did you get from John? I'm thinking of having him build me an 8" so I can make room for other mods....

i talk to myself cuz theres no one else to talk to...

I had a feeling the spider intake was for an MPFI..whaddya say, Andy, is it a step up from the SPFI?

that's pimp $#!T Flow!!

you are in the right neck of the woods for the hardcore nuts, thats for sure...Once you start driving your furure sube, you'll guarunteed be tempted to take it way past the trailhead, that's for sure!!! all the luck to ya...you shouldn't have any trouble finding a great old sube up there.

some early 80's wagons are 1600cc, like mine, but only with a single range 4 speed I think. In '84 they made a turbo version of the EA81 motor. Any EA81 made after, '84 will have a slightly different head, not sure what the improvements were. I would get an '80 -'83 wagon, just cuz they have the "Third Eye" passing lamp, which is pretty cool. Other than many small differences, such as interior, headlights, and a few other minor things, the guts were the same, 'cept some had single range, and some had dual range 4x4's... If you want a 5sp, dual range, you will have to rip the tranny out of a newer model sube, and do some modifications, but it will fit with not too much of a pain in the arse...Only thing is, the 4th in the 4sp. has the same overdrive capabitlites as the 5th in the 5speed.

You're right about the low-end GL, thing, I was just saying that it bein a 2wd SPFI, kinda sounds like a janky loyale, but just as easily a GL, i guess...Prolly the imaculate maroon paint that I see on many loyales, just cuz they havent been around as long.. Ken, not to hijack, but would a spider intake, easily be put onto a motor with spfi do ya think, and would it help performance?

wierd, I'm running 195/60/15's on my loyale with no rubbing or probs... When you figure out the more power thing on the SPFI, let me know!! it does look pretty good with the wheels and kit, tho its a low-end loyale with the back hacked...

I would kill for a '72 Datsun 510..that's my only other favortite japanese vintage car...that car ripped everything cool design-wise off of the euro performers, and made it cheap and solid!! You might be intrerested to know, there's some people on here who have mated the datsun/nissan r160 transfer cases in to early 80's subaru's, making it a rear-wheel drive/4X4 that has like a 50 to 1 crawl ratio, or something..

sounds like the basics are all there.. Subes are great cars, but you really need to get cozy with your regualr maintenance..Research on how to change an axel, and have all the neccessary tools, cuz it will happen that you'll need to change one, for certain. It can cost as cheap as $15 if you get a junkyard axel,$70-$100 for a remanufactured axel, and as expensive as $250 to get changed in a shop. The more you know about your sube, the more you'll love about it and be able to fix the quirks

why is it an imposter, Ken? Cuz its an Rx wannabe, or does this have something to do with the old red hatch?

not sure why, but it has been suggested to use the 4sp. D/r for off-roading

this was an EA82 N/A XT I was looking at, So I'm SURE they have the same rear splines. XT6...hmmm not sure. I'm pretty sure the front XT6 swaybar is even thicker than the XT, and can be swapped. Not sure about thickness or compatibility with the rear sways on an XT6...you could always weld on the swaybar tabs to your control arms if you really wanted to make it work, and not spend a lot at the boneyard... not to be mean but: WHO THE HELL KNOWS ABOUT THE STERRING RACK!?!?!?!? AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!

Not to pee on your claim, Setright, but I have stood by a single type of oil through many changes, and used about every level of viscosity that they provide (Castrol GTX), and the lifter noises still ensued. It wasn't until I tried oil additives that they stopped ticking. After a complete head job/ oil pump overhaul, the noises came back yet again, and once again, oil additive was the only stuff that completely ridded the noise

thanks for the reaffirmation on the sway bars, monk.. unfortunately don't have time to compare racks, but mine's a 36 DD.. Seriously tho, I know someone has researched this...Pipe up, Corky...