mightGETaSUBARU

ok now the transmission is really acting up... what the heck is going on? best to start watching from about 1:40 I will upload a video in a few minutes there are too many failures for it to be real... has to be electrical

Ok so I did a head gasket job on my 1998 Legacy Outback 2.5 auto... battery was off the car for about a week maybe a little longer then got it all together and hopped right on the highway, drove 100 miles pretty much right away about 100 miles later I get code that says idle control valve too high RPM or something like that... this caused some odd idle issues, mostly flutter at idle after a stop, almost die, bounch up, 2 or 3 times then smooth out I cleared that, then 150 or so miles later the car throws another code Mass air flow low input, caused a really erratic idle, going as high as 1800 and then falling to near 0 or dying altogeter cleared that and a 100 or so miles later I got the EVAP emissions code

I don't think I messed with them... yes new gaskets, genuine Subaru

1998 Legacy Outback wagon idled fine before headgasket job, then after about 110 miles got a check engine light and noticed that the car would almost die right after coming to a stop (car is an automatic BTW) the idle would drop to almost nothing, then come up to between 1000 and 1200, then drop to nothing, back to 1000 range, then to nothing and back to 1000ish, then back to almost dead, then perfect idle the CEL says that the idle control is too high RPM... the car had a few vac hoses disconnected before the head gasket job and idled great.

Well I just finished a head gasket job on my 1998 Subaru Legacy Outback wagon... I noticed that it is shifting a little high and rough and down shifting a little rough... I am thinking that this has something to do with the second cable on the throttle body... maybe it's not adjusted correctly?

Well so far over 100 miles and a little more than 1/4 tank of gas and she is STILL kickin' However I am going to need new exhaust manifold gaskets, they are ticking a little bit Also does not seem to have he slight smell of burning oil the car used to have

I opened up the op radiator hose and she took about 3 quarts of coolant Now we have a working heater and the fans are cycling great, one more cool down and fill and she is ready for a drive

ok let it cool and it took a few more cups of coolant, this time it only got to 2 marks above 1/2, so maybe 2/3? Also I noticed as it was cooling last time the upper radiator hose collapsed, this to me screams air in he system and air will compress and contract, esp as it changes temps The hose opened back up when I cracked open the system

fans kicked on, but the gauge got a little under 3/4... I have seen this on a few engines when they got air suck in them

any tricks to getting the coolant flow started, I filled it last night and left it open, then fired it up this morning, took quite a while to even start warming up and even longer to get a LITTLE heat out of the heater however I think I might have an air bubble or 2 because it did start to over heat in the drive way a little BUT good news is the coolant is getting nice and warm and there is no exhaust coming out of the radiator like it was before...

Well my 1998 Legacy outback wagon started up, I pulled the injectors and turned it over for about a minute (to get the oil flowing) then hooked up the injectors and fired everything up, started right up going to pull it out of the garage in the morning and let it idle for 30 mins or so and maybe then a little around town driving... HOW MANY MILES before I should take it on the highway?

So it does not matter what order the whites go in, so long as the black is in position 3? Ok thank you

n07.537002-7903.73611ac110

please explain in picture... my brain needs pictures

I think I figured this out guys... the cam and crank sprockets have a different amount of teeth so....

ok pics are up and working I am gonna get some lunch, hopefully I get done today, I need my car back, lol

weird mine are White, White and black

Ok so I finally got a day off... this is on my 1998 legacy wagon I am doing HGs on I installed the timing belt and aligned the crank mark and then aligned the cam marks, installed the belt, double checked everything, pulled the tensioner grenade pin and rotated the engine several times by hand while the marks on the engine and sprockets all line up the marks on the belt no lone line up, they are all about 1 tooth clockwise when the marks on the engine and sprockets line up, even the crank mark is off an equal ammount But like I said the cams and crank are still correct SO is this wrong or right? either way it's lunch time hope to be done tonight also I will take some pics before I take lunch

Thank

98 Legacy outback 2.5 DOHC, front o2 sensor

Well the O2 sensor wires pulled out of the plug... any idea what order they go in?

Heads are back on. Hope to get everything running tomorrow

Went to the machine shop, happy with the results... he said the heads had between 4 and 5 thousandths in some places. I have used this guy several times in teh past, he usually gets done same or next day, which is awesome, he does your basic check for leaks and deck until it's flat. Funny thing is he ran his hand over the heads when he first got them and said that it would be around 4 or 5 thousandths... that man called it When to the Subaru dealership and picked up what I needed, Now I just need some gasket goop and something to clean the deck with