GlenSz

Matt, thanks, the corner lamp has been pretty tough to track down here on the east coast, would be great if you have one. with the passenger side front wheel assembly, it's probably just the bearing, but had some difficulty in the past w/ don't just the bearing, and not the hub as well. figured the spindle might come with it, and would rather not chance it and generally make it easier to replace.

hey old gen friends, recently came back to my wagon parked on the street here in New York City and found my driver side corner light smashed, so looking for a replacement. Also been hearing some grinding in the front end on the passenger side. I need to track down a complete front passenger side wheel assembly (bearing, hub, spindle). If anyone has these parts for sale, please let me know, I need the corner light to pass inspection which is coming up soon and from the sound of things, also need to replace the front passenger side wheel assembly ASAP as well. thanks, Glen

picked up a great '87 GL wagon with only about 30k miles on it last winter. engine was pretty clean, no real fluid leaks, was working great till a couple months ago. when i started her up cold, and just pulled away from the curb, she wouldn't shift into 2nd gear unless i let her warm up a little, and run through the gears a couple times while still parked. after that, she'd shift fine and the problem wouldn't happen again till she's parked and cold. this car's body is in pretty good shape, has manual locks and windows and runs great otherwise, sans some front end alignment that needs to be adjusted and i hope to drive her into the next century so really looking at getting to the bottom of this. seems like the trans fluid isn't circulating until it's warmer and thinner, possibly? gonna drain it and put in a new filter and new fluid, WHAT TYPE AND HOW MUCH, EXACTLY, do you use? maybe as treatment fluid of some kind can be added w/ the new fluid? heard a few different answers and suggestions, but can always count on the USMB for delivering the best advice. thanks, Glen.

what's your plan with them? find um on craigslist?

'94 Loyale 3AT 4WD wagon - 143K '89 GL manual 4WD touring wagon - 131K '87 DL 3AT FWD wagon - 29K !!!! original miles!!!!!!! <----- gonna send a kid i don't even have yet to college (if he's lucky) in this one

i've got a '94 3AT 4WD Loyale, and i need a trailing arm bushing too, same part numbers? also, trying to get my hands on an entire rear cross-member. part # for that? thank guys

i bought a used retractable cargo cover for the trunk area of my Loyale wagon last here on the USMB and recently it stopped retracting and i can't figure out how to get it working again. i didn't want to take it apart first, in fear i might break it trying before relying on the past experience of other USMB members. tips? or if you have another one i can buy, i'm interested, any color, EA82 cargo covers are pretty universal? thanks, Glen

i got the same problem, i'll try this...it probably won't hold in the weather, @175eya, haha, how you doin?

actually, i've only been trying to execute my original plan (minimal lift and some bigger wheels), and made some mistakes along the way. decided having a lift kit in in general wasn't worth it for me, considering it wouldn't be useful to me 9 months outta the year, so instead of putting it back in the right way, decided to just keep the pugs on. my rusting crossmember was a previous condition that i only spent a little on to repair, because at that point in this process, no advice was given on that issue because i never mentioned it was a problem till i had rear alignment concerns, and i thought locating a better one and replacing it was gonna be much more work than just repair my current one. i also wanted to replace the suspension which i knew from the beginning when i bought the car was bad, so i replaced the struts, and wanted to do the coilsprings, which gives me a little bit of an increased lift without putting the kit back in and a better ride in general. i also had a little rusting around the rear wheel wells, so taking off the mudflaps and cutting out some and patching w/ diamond plate was something i thought about doing anyway, and again, not very expensive. all in all, hindsight is 20/20 and it sucks to have decided to try to do these mods w/out any real experience, for the sake of something i use my subes for only 3 months outta the year. bottom line, it's gonna perform best for normal road and highway use at stock, but after going to all the trouble, at least keeping the pugs on it and getting the alignment right would have me satisfied, but it's just been a pretty frustrating process to not only not get the results i want, but also to think about how if i would have just left it alone, i would be better off now, and have not spent a dime. at least my suspension is better and i can get back a little of what i put out for the kit. and don't get me wrong, i appreciate everyone's advice here, especially those who've spent a considerable amount of time earnestly advising my on my situation, thanks @Loyale2.7Turbo i just was reporting on the situation as it's progressed over the last few months and much of the advice on this thread has come after i've already gone past a certain point. not really sure what else to say. thanks again?

??? OP fail? not sure i understand your 2 cents.

yeah, drove it a little bit w/ the Tempo coils in and i'm gettin some noises that sound like the axles cranking as well as the rougher, more boucey ride. here's a link to the pics of the crossmember repair: http://s406.photobucket.com/user/GlenSzabo/library/Loyale%20frame%20repair?sort=2&page=1

not sure you saw the pics of the rear crossmember that's now repaired by welding in new piece of pipe that's was slightly smaller in diameter and shoved inside the rusting ends of either side of the crossmember. so that safety issue is not longer a concern. i'm more worried about the negative camber of the rear wheels and the positive camber in the front that came from the new Tempo coil springs i put in cause i couldn't find original subaru ones. not only is the ride very bouncy (which i don't mind) but i'm riding more on the outside edge of the tire and it sounds like i've got some strain on the axels cause there's rhythmic clicking when i'm turning around corners. definitely gonna put the stock ones back in, even if they're not perfect. i really just want to find someone that can help me do the alignment right, so the camber is the same and at 0 degrees, back and front, and i'll be happy to just drive it as is, even i have new struts all around, but the same coils all around. i'm not getting any rubbing anymore with the wheel-well mods and the new struts. i'm almost considering putting my 13" stock wheels back on during the rest of the year when i'm not using my 4WD/off-road beach permit. probably want to keep on the pugs i went to all the trouble to get, but will probably also want to sell the lift-kit to someone on here that wants it, since i took it out and am very hesitant to put it back in since i don't really need it even when i'm in the sand on the beach. if i put it back in, it would be almost entirely for aesthetic reasons. guess tracking down a set of front and rear coil springs from another EA82 is gonna be tough, even on here. i'll definitely do a post looking for another mechanic in my area that's maybe got their own garage and a history of experience w/ these older subies. i can leave it with them and use my '88 toyota all-trac wagon, my "beater", so there's no rush and it's finally done right.

I would love to take it to someone on here that was a "professional" mechanic who had lots of experience w/ older subies, but where i am in Brooklyn, and the East Coast in general, i've found only a few members that even live around here, let alone are real mechanics. i already did the oil pump and successfully eliminated my TOD thanks to the help of @175eya (take a look at the thread i posted w/ the pics http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/136547-ea82-er27-ticking-tod-hydraulic-valve-lash-hla-noise-diagnose-and-repair/) He's the closest i've come to finding another member around here that's a mechanic. Thanks Steve, you've been really helpful.

so here's the latest on my lift sitch: decided to not put it back in, even if i now know that the front strut blocks were in backwards and if switched would have reduced the negative camber situation because if feel like even though i think it might not ever return to it's original state before i started attempting all these mods, taking it further and further away from stock would only reduce it's life-span as an everyday driving car. sure i want it to perform better than an average car, or what i mean is i want special performance when using it (even if only rarely, probably less than 5% of it's overall use) for it's 4WD capability so i can qualify for this permit i need to drive on the sand/beach to go to a fishing spot i like, but i want to keep it in the best condition for daily use, which i figured a lift kit would detract from. plus, i'm gonna sell the lift kit on here to recoup some of what i spent in this evolving saga. it's an interesting tale at this point. after taking out the lift, and regain some more positive camber, the 15" pugs w/ 205/75 tires on it were rubbing real bad, so first i tried taking of the the mud flaps and banging some stuff outta the way in the front wells, then finally resorting to cutting a bit out and patching it up w/ diamond tread, but still got a lot of rubbing, particularly bad w/ the all the rough road surfaces here. http://s406.photobucket.com/user/GlenSzabo/library/Loyale%20Camber%20Issues also, the alignment was pretty off, the camber in the front and back being very different, and i think putting in the back strut spacer put a lot of stress on the rear cross members which were rusting and crumbling away on the ends where the where the outter arm assembly connects. so i reinforced those by getting a pipe slightly smaller in diameter welded in on both sides. take a look at the before and after pics: http://s406.photobucket.com/user/GlenSzabo/library/Loyale%20frame%20repair then, i brought it back to the place i bought the set of used tires and thought maybe i could get a smaller set w/ the same width, and they said it was my soggy front suspension, which i already knew was kinda shot, especially on the driverside, worst on the front driverside. so i replaced the struts all around, but not the coils, which i couldn't find as easily. still, tons of rubbing, but thought new struts would be good anyway, so wasn't too upset, but still frustrated w/ the rubbing which by that point was shredding the tires a bit on the edges. so i brought i back to the used tire place, showed them i redid the struts and said there was still too much rub, so they agreed to let me switch down to a set of 205/65's (for free, no charge even though the 75's were a little damaged) which were much better tires, seemingly, and closer to a matching set of 4, with only one being a different tire from the rest. http://s406.photobucket.com/user/GlenSzabo/library/Loyale%20Tires these smaller tires finally eliminated virtually all rubbing issues. i think the extra lift from the new struts and the cutting from the wells also helped. the final thing was to do the coil springs, cause the front left coil spring definitely was more compressed than the passenger side, maybe from the previous bad front driverside strut, which was definitely the weaker of the two. since i already did the struts all around and didn't need the whole suspension assembly (i looked for them used at a number of junk yards in my area and literally got laughed at when i said, "'94 tempo" so i figured i'd order the Napa (rather than stiffer and more progressive MOOG version) ones brand new which only cost about $80 for the set. but now that they're in, they've raised the front almost as much as the lift did (no turns were removed from the coils) and the camber is at a pretty negative degree in the front, whereas the back seems to be almost positive to excess. i wanted to get new coils all around and finally get it all aligned (found a good alignment shop that i can bring it to w/ the special instructions for doing the back w/ a piece of wood now that the crossmembers are reinforced and can take the bending and won't just toe the front) so i'd have new full suspension, all around, decent tires on the pugs w/ plenty of space so there'd be no rubbing, but these coils are pressing the wheels down too much and i'm about ready to put the old springs back in, and forget doing the coil springs and just get it aligned and be done with it all. any suggestions on finding front and back coil springs? even a used set from another EA82 that doesn't have a mooshy driver side one, as a possibility? 2 steps forward, 1 step back. at least theres some progress, i just don't want to do any more harm than i've already done taking her outta stock. thoughts? looking better at least? -Glen

when i first got the kit, it only had the crossmember blocks and the rear drop brackets. i emailed the guy and he said he forgot to include the crossmember blocks, which he sent a week later. but they were never installed before i removed the lift. still haven't gotten the 6 trans blocks either.

got the kit here: http://subarugllifted.webs.com/ this one: http://subarugllifted.webs.com/apps/webstore/products/show/2020636

haha, sorry guys, wrote that wrong, i'm pretty green, but not that retarded. they were at the top of the strut and coil, bolted in to the body w/ everything underneath. sorry, was unclear. but look how there were mounted in the photo, tops pointed in towards the middle, like this: // \\

mounting them involved a lot of tools i didn't have, like to squeeze them in btwn the top of the coil and strut, so i had to bring them to my mechanic who helped, but still charged me. so reversing them, after taking them out, just to possibly find out the camber will still be off seems like a gamble. definitely a degree difference btwn the top and bottom holes. the guy i bought the kit from said he forgot to make them "left" & "right" which means one side was supposed to go one way, and same for the other. i'm having difficulty figuring out how mounting them differently would allow for camber correction though. sorry, just showing my lack of experience here. thanks for your repeated insight, it's very much appreciated. -glen

here's a link to some pics of the blocks and how they were installed: http://s406.photobucket.com/user/GlenSzabo/library/2%20inch%20Lift%20kit%20and%2015%20inch%20Pugs i'm guessing they were camber correct and just dropped everything straight down, which would account for why the wheels pushed in at the bottoms.

hey Josh, Thanks for the info. I already took out the lift kit cause the camber on the front was killing my tires and axels. ripped the passenger-side boot within the first day. The kit i ordered used blocks for the front. i just needed info about the coils, cause after taking out the kit and leaving on the 15" pugs and 205/75 tires, i was getting tons of rubbing cause my suspension in front especially, but all around anyway, was in pretty bad shape, before putting in the kit to begin with, so i did the struts in the front and back, but couldn't find the coils for the front, so went looking for alternatives. running the shotty driver-side strut in front for so long caused the coil to weaken a lot, so that made the rubbing particularly bad on that side. i'm gonna probably bring it back to the used tire place and try to swap them out for 205/70's, just to eliminate some of the rub cause now that it's settling, the rubbing is worse, even after cutting out a significant part of the wells. again, really wish i could go back to before having tried to put in the lift, cause the she was running great w/ the stock 13's and still had the mudflaps and entire well. but after going outta my way to get the pugs and matching lugs from Dan in Sacramento (costing more than the rims themselves from the boneyard i got them from, thanks again @rrgrr) i want to leave them on, even if it means redoing my suspension, which needed to be done eventually anyway. also wish i could have the lift in there w/ out the camber issues, despite my daily-driving needs, cause it would definitely eliminate all the rubbing issues i have now w/ the bigger wheels. guess it's the price i pay for attempting these type of mods. also still can't wrap my head around why the front blocks, if switched, wouldn't create the same camber issues. or why they need to be the opposite of the way they were. it just looks like they'd be pushing down the springs even further if they went in the way everyone is saying they should be put in, which would make the camber problem worse. should i just get a jacked up jeep? hahah, definitely JUST KIDDING! would never want and SUV over my subie -g

Wow! amazing, this is very very helpful, i'm really excited you could share this. like i said, you're a real value to the USMB. just one question: this says, "Loyale 2.7 Turbo" on the bottom of the diagram. will this be the same for my '94 Loyale 4WD (3AT) Wagon? and is it from the Haynes maintenance & repair manual? -g

so after a little closer reading of your post (compliments, btw, on your really thorough research, testing, documentation and sharing, you're a real asset to our subie community!) i figured i'd give the Napa coils a shot, cause it was the MOOG CC854 and especially the progressive CC856 coils that would be too stiff, if they were brand new, not necessarily the napa version. also, there's a napa around the corner from my apt. and they said they could get them in in a day or so and they were only $60 & change for the front pair, plus shipping. the MOOG versions were like $120, even though they were available immediately. in the meantime, i live near a bunch of junkyards and the NYC mecca of yards, Willet's Point, which i'm sure i could find them at, so if so, i'll probably get the whole GEN2 94'Tempo front strut assembly (probably for about $50 total for both, depending on how much i feel i searching and bargaining) and use the used coils off them, as you did. then after that, i'll finally be ready for a proper alignment, which i hope solves my dissimilar front and rear wheel camber issues. is there some sort of adjustment bolt or something i can try to do on my own first? i just did the rear struts and it didn't help it any. i thought maybe the new strut w/ an increased height would push down the wheel and axle and therefore have the top of the wheel inside the well stick out a little bit further. but as it sits now, the top of the tire doesn't even extend past the edge at the top of the well. could some of this positive camber be ok if it's just on the back wheels? the front are perfectly straight now. thanks again for the suggestions and advice. -Glen

My Loyale is a 4WD / 3AT.

wow, that's some intense research. i guess the 94 tempo's coil springs would be too stiff if i bought them brand new if i'm just looking for regular street-driving ones, not intended for heavy off-roading.