GlenSz
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Posts posted by GlenSz
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Here's a pic of one of my wagons 2" lift blocks no Xmember drop and 29" mud terrains. at a stand still the front has almost perfect camber. though when i accelerate i get camber like yours. \ / been wearing the outside edge of the tires pretty badly.
redrilled toyota's? you cut in the front of the back wells right to the edge of the backdoor? can't see in the pic. think i might go w/ that on mine where i got only about half in of clearance.
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I am also pretty green on this, hoping to see if alignment will correct the slight camber issue I have when I get it done next week. Didn't drop the crossmember, either and won't if I don't have to. I ran my stock wheels while I looked for wheels, and the outer front treads were worn out in a couple weeks. Tire proportions mean everything in terms of rubbing -what size are yours?
i'm running 205/75/15's, hearing some rubbing but only when i drive it in reverse.
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It definitely helps to toe your tires out a bit after lifting. The camber is terrible on the cars to begin with, and slightly worse after lifting, even with camber correct blocks. But I've never had a huge issue with it.
"toe my tires out"? not sure i understand what that means.
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@AKghandi, thanks mang, 'preciate the comment. haha, 20 yrs old? these kids today!
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in an effort to avoid getting sand up in everything while using a single lane access road that is deeply rutted out by the other larger vehicles that use it to get out to the beach from the main road, i ordered a 2" lift kit from Mike at WarMachine Lifts and Accessories http://subarugllifte...ts/show/2020636 but i only got the blocks for the front and the adjustable cylinders that can be set for a 2, 4 or 6 inch lift in the back. he's sending the two crossmember blocks that weren't in the first package in a few days.
put in the kit and think the 2 front blocks went in the wrong way (\\ //) so changed it (// \\) and still had really bad wheel angles/super bad camber, tires were riding on the outside edge and handling was really squirley.
also went and pulled some 15" pug alloys from a junkyard in Pennsylvania thanks to a tip on here (thanks @rrgrr!) and ordered and received a set of lugs made by @4X4brat (thanks Dan, got um in 2 days). thought the increased wheel height would straighten out the axles. they helped a little, but didn't nearly solve it.
if i knew, at all, what i was doing, i'd know what how to take care of this, but i'm an admitted novice, amongst some real experts here on the USMB. so once again, i'm trying to figure out what i can do to solve this situation.
if i need to take out the lift and just keep the pugs on (already got rid of the front mud flaps and cut some stuff outta the way so i don't get any rubbing), that's what i'll do, especially since 9 months outta the year, i'm almost strictly on the street, not doing any wheeling. sept-dec., i have a permit to drive on one particular beach to access my favorite fishing spot, which is why i got my Loyale in the first place....didn't want no SUV and got turned on to subies thanks mainly to the USMB. i know i'll have better handling and gas milage if i go back to my stock set-up, but already went to a lot of trouble to gain some height, so i'm not giving up yet.
thanks for all advice and explanations...i know a lot more now thanks to everyone's generosity of info, but still an utter newbie.
thanks again,
Glen
here's a bunch of pics of the progress:
http://s406.photobucket.com/user/GlenSzabo/library/2%20inch%20Lift%20kit%20and%2015%20inch%20Pugs
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these still out there?
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those were my wheels. they are 15" Pug flat spoke alloys. I took the pug centercaps and bondoed in the lion recess molded into the cap. then I painted to match my Brat, and I used the 4WD emblem from hatchbacks and mounted them on the centercaps.....
i was wondering about that too, there pictured here as well: http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/wheels/pug15-8spoke-2.jpg
looks great, might try doing something similar once i take care of some more important stuff.
thanks for the info.
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super-old thread, i know, but looking for a 2" kit for my '94 Loyale that won't break my bank account, but also that i can get shipped asap.
any suggestions?
thanks much,
Glen
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I know this is a super-old thread at this point, but looking to get 2" lift kit for my '94 Loyale, as cost-effective as possible.
any updated advice?
thanks guys,
Glen
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got the same issue/request/desire. trying to get some 14" rims for my Loyale and not sure the best/cheapest way to go about it. i keep hearing peugeot rims for 14" & 15" upgrades, but i'm assuming i'd have to do some wheel-well trimming if i went up to 15" so i'm fine w/ only going up to 14" and getting some off-road tires. i'm mainly planning on using them for beach/sand, so not sure exactly what the best solution is here, if i'm using my Loyale on paved roads most of the time. if i added a 2" inch lift w/ 14" rims, not trimming is necessary, yeah?
sorry to jump on this thread like this, but finally eliminated my tick of Death, so i'm anxious to pursue getting this car beach-ready.
thanks!
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i'm now finally posting some info and pics of swapping my oil pump to eliminate my T.O.D.sorry to clutter up this thread w/ oil thread questions, which i learned are definitely not as relevant to TOD as oil pressure/Oil pump replacement.@GrossGary said:
Helpful if oil discussions went in another thread to avoid cluttering this one up.
Link already in first post for thread about what oil additives do and why they may cause HLA's to always tick due to resultant wear:
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/109575-ea82-lifter-ticking-tod-etc-my-recent-experience/
There is no detailed description. Use whatever you want to or get results you like from, etc. ATF, diesel oil, additives, MMO...doesn't matter, results vary based on engine condition/issue.
Changing the oil and water pumps is not hard and rather simple actually - you don't "see the insides" really, so don't be too timid.
__________________________________________________________________________________________________________@175eya said:
New oil pump fixed the ticking on my EA82 as well. Count me in there.
Also,
This should be stickiedafter telling @CoyotePaws that i was gonna get some local USMB help (@175eya) to swap the pump, and that i was looking for one online at a reasonable rate, he said he'd keep an internet eye out for one too.sure enough, i get a text from @CoyotePaws in the middle of the day about a week or whatever later w/ a link to a new one, still in the plastic and box, that's on Craigslist for only $40! as opposed to the $180 or so i generally was seeing them for everywhere else online.i confirmed w/ @175eya that it was the right one and would fit, and managed to negotiate a paypal payment over the phone w/ someone i could barely understand, which seemed a little risky, but i figured i'd take a chance.a week later, i had the new oil pump and seals, all of which were still in the plastic, via the PayPal purchase. $50 total, including the $10 for shipping.
@175eya gave me the go ahead for the following weekend to do the swap.so, started taking stuff out...
the old pump and shitty off-brand oil filter the guy who sold it to me used:
hardest part of the whole thing had to be getting the 5 hard-to-get-to screws on the radiator fan off and back on.
btwn us, we had everything we needed...taquitos no pictured.
got the old one out, and it looked ok...not like it's possible to eye the difference btwn a functioning and non-functioning oil pump.
but once i looked at the mickey mouse gasket from the old one and the new one that was going in, it was clear what the difference was: one seal was FLAT, the new one was ROUNDED...but the old one was so consistently flat, i thought maybe it was just a different type/design altogether, possibly even the reason for most the EA87's and any other engine with T.O.D. that used the flat and not rounded gasket design style...just a thought.
there was a pile of junk from @175eya's swap, including belt covers he took out and encouraged me to leave out as well. i'd read they were extraneous already and thought it was better to leave mine out as well.
it was pretty easy to get the new one seated and attached.
everything was looking good when we put everything back in, fans, belts, alternator, A/C, battery, etc., but when we went to crank it over, it was running rough, w/ T.O.D. then eventually sputtered out.@175eya immediately recognized the timing was off and needed to be reset.but he had never actually done it. i was pretty nervous, not only cause everything had taken longer than we thought and we were losing light and i wasn't sure we'd be able to get it right, but also because i still heard ticking for the brief time it ran before stalling out and we'd gone to all this trouble to swap out the oil pump to get rid of the T.O.D.first we tried to turn one of the pulleys back a few ticks on one side, hoping that was the one that i had accidentally moved or slipped out of position when we were taking the belts off. after manually clicking through almost all the positions that one pulley had, turning it clockwise, putting on the belt and trying it in each position, it seemed none were right, and i was in trouble.well, we looked at @175eya's old and worn subaru repair manual that i had a practically new version of in my trunk as well, and eventually, with @175eya's brilliant suggestion, found the YouTube video that was a tutorial of how to reset the timing on a EA87 that @MilesFox had posted! haha, as you can see in the picture, the internet literally won and came out on top, as far as useful resource.
we mimicked the video and got it everything in the right positions, including the main fly wheel, put everything back on and back in, and it started up perfectly....and the best part, after about 5-10 minutes of running, maybe less, the T.O.D. was completely and totally gone. i've been driving it for a over 2 months now, on the highway, start & stop city traffic, etc, and it's quite as a friggin' church mouse! that is to say, there's no sign of any Tick of Death anymore.additionally, it's a good thing we didn't put the belt covers back on or we woulda never finished before dark and woulda been doing it with headlamps in the cold till past midnight.i'm really satisfied this was done. learned a lot, including how to redo the timing.next thing on my list is looking for whats causing the rhythmic pulsing in the front breaks, probably just a warped router, but would like to get that gone, and then look at the relatively soggy front-end suspension.Thanks again to @175eya & @CoyotePaws for the help and support.-Glen
oh and this is what "Joan Crawlins" is lookin' like nowadays w/ her budget Pepboys safari rack and fog lights
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I'm in Bushwick/East Williamsburg area in BK, near Woodhull hospital. Would love to talk about getting a garage/work space for 'um...
take it easy!
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Yay! Another east coast subaruholic. I'm 10 miles away from Brooklyn! If that! Let me know if you need any help with anything when you get here.
Just a little education for getting here. NYC doesnt have freeways, but highways and parkways, they are not the same. Parkways are no trucks due to lane width and low bridges. Also depending upon what Uhaul beast you are bringing here, be fully aware of the height of the truck. If it is not marked measure it and read the bridge height signs.
And welcome to the land of alt side of the street parking
http://www.nyc.gov/html/dot/html/motorist/alternate-side-parking.shtml
Get yourself a cheap bicycle and multiple locks, easiest way to get around locally at times.
Drop me a line when your settled, maybe we can make a sooby welcoming party for you.
Ah so they are! I spent a number of years in Southern California, where there are lots of freeways.
Anyway, I'll be back in town Sunday. I've already been living in Red Hook for about a month, and parking there is a breeze.
More '94-and-before Subarus in BK and the tri-state please!!!!
I'm definitely the biggest benefactor of the USMB in Brooklyn.
With the help of 175eya who's just across the Hudson river in Jersey, @CoyotePaws in Ohio & everyone on here, i located the best Loyale i could find within 500 miles of NYC (thanks again @CoyotePaws, maybe your alt USMB handle should be InternetBloodHound!) learned about all the general issues/drawbacks to owning at car manufactured 20+ years ago (when the highest speed limit in the USA was 55mph!) that boasts a whopping 90HP, pushing 4,500RPM to hit btwn 70-80mph (stiil thinking up a good name for her, jealous of 175eya's cleverly named "Margaret Scratcher", but on deck are "Joan Crawlins" and "Slow Piscapo" for mine, too bad it's tradition to only pick a girl's name), their tendency to rust and develop piston-tick, affectionately referred to as the "T.O.D." or "tick of Death", what to do about these issues (primarily my Loyale's TOD) and how to find all kinds of parts for cheap and that would be really tough to find here as well, including a stock AM/FM cassette player to replace the radio it came with it, rear cargo cover, new Oil Pump w/ gaskets (to get rid of my TOD) off craigslist for $40 instead of the usual $180, not to mention tons of encouragement and advice.
I had to drill out some rivets on an old bike rack for a regular sedan to retro-fit it to my loyale wagon, but definitely has been coming in handy for going to pick up my bike where i left it parked or just taking it somewhere w/ a few other bikes and people to where it's better to ride. All about using a bike w/ a tempered steal chain and lock here @Nipper. I'm also down to have a Subie welcoming party here in NYC. definitely wanna get a pic of all them together, 175eya's Loyale & GL sedans would really round out the shot. and everyone, including plenty of idiots w/ minivans, is a member of an "AutoClub" in brooklyn, like 3 or more people who have any kind of car simply come up w/ a name, make a decal for it and all put it on their ride, and bam, they're in an "Autoclub". Vintage Subie AutoClub anyone? hahahah...
anyway, i'm disappointed i didn't get to read this thread a day earlier when i coulda maybe scored some parts for my loyale before you left the denver area (i used to live in Boulder too, and just went to visit a few months ago (so many loyales on the road still out there!) Safe travels, get in touch soon.
-Glen
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Trying to do an oil pump swap this weekend and worried i'm gonna lose my A/C refrigerant in the process, and won't be able to find more R12...cause it's super illegal thanks to it's unenviromental friendliness.
after some googling, i see most pointing to converting it w/ a kit available at auto-zone or other automotive supply stores.
have also seen the a number of "eco-safe" R12 refills out there, but not sure what the deal is with them.
never really had A/C in any of my cars of the years so not really willing to give up my currently working A/C, but need to eliminate my TOD w/ the oil pump swap (hopefully, fingers crossed).
thoughts?
thanks,
Glen
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Actually I'd recommend just replacing the whole pump. That's what I did on mine. I found it for like 70 bucks on ebay with the seals too. Wouldn't hurt to do the water pump too, but, hey, you never know. The original one might go for another 200,000 miles.
just spoke w/ the garage i brought my Loyale to when the timing belt went. and they said when they replaced it and reset the timing, they put in a new water pump, which would explain why i wasn't overheating anymore as soon as i got it back from them, so i'm good on the water pump.
ordered that new oil pump w/ seals off craiglist that @CoyotePaws was nice enough to text me about and send me a link to.
should be in the mail tmrw, so looking forward to seeing if i can finally eliminate my TOD.
then i'll start looking into suspension and some new'bigger wheels. whole other ball of wax.
cheers!
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just an update, i spoke w/ the garage that fixed my timing belt when it went and they said they actually put in a new water pump, so that's one less thing i gotta buy...
just ordered the oil pump, so hopefully, i'll be TOD free pretty soon.
thanks everyone who helped on this.
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Actually it not "turbo or non turbo"
It's factory a/c or dealer/non a/c. If the a/c compressor is inboard of the alt, it factory a/c
Factory ac = short pump. 105mm
All others = long pump. 110mm
Pretty sure his is factory A/C. Factory A/C is inboard A/C, correct?
Glen, looking at your engine from the front of the car, is your alternator on the far right side of the motor (driver's side) with nothing else further to the right of it other than the battery?
so i'm assuming it's the 105mm stem then if i probably have a factory A/C...
i'm about to order one since i just got ordered the oil pump.
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yup, @175eya is correct, nothing to the right of my altenator than the battery, except my spare hand-towel, wedged in between the battery and body...wonder where i picked that from, ha!
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Actually it not "turbo or non turbo"
It's factory a/c or dealer/non a/c. If the a/c compressor is inboard of the alt, it factory a/c
Factory ac = short pump. 105mm
All others = long pump. 110mm
thanks for the correction. def know i don't have a turbo, and not sure which kind of A/C i have. but i know i have it, i just got to use it for the first time the other day and hadn't tried it yet since i bought the car in mid-febuary, so i was pretty psyched.
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wow, glad i got a chance to read and hop on this thread, especially cause i'm in mid-TOD elimination process, with the help and experience of @175eya, who's been telling me this whole time to explore the various discussions concerning TOD on the USMB. this one's a gem and should be "stickied" or highlighted as mentioned by @Rust, who's also been helpful with some general concerns i had, including what i didn't even know at that point was my very own TOD! so again would like to say the USMB is a great resource, and friendly and approachable even for very unexperienced newbies like myself. thanks folk, back to my question,
I think crapshoot, though ambiguous to start with, is overstating it mathematically speaking. There are many documented successes replacing the oil pump. It's not %100, although for me it's been 100% out of quite a few TOD's in the past 20 years of owning like 50 Subaru's and working on many more.
But I've never worked on 85/86 models with inferior orings and mine are always "low" mileage, 100k-175k, i've only worked on like one 200k engine. Stuff rusts too quickly to see many 200,000+ mile vehicles here. I rarely see or work on them any more.
What year is that vehicle (is it the early 85/86 variants that get the standard oring only in the cam carrier passage?)?
How many TOD vehicles have you replaced an oil pump on?
In any event, a 300,000 mile EA82...particularly one with the known substandard orings may not be much more than an outlier statistically speaking. Meaning, I don't know how comparative a 300k motor is to a 150k motor.
i'm just about to buy a new oil pump, cause it seems i have a pretty good chance of getting rid of my '94 Loyale (105k miles) tick of death by doing the swap. i considered doing just the seals, to save money, but then reconsidered and decided to buy a new one, along with a new water pump to put in since i'll be in there anyway, might as well, and it's a cheaper part.
but first,
i'd really like to know more about or read the new thread about the "Cocktail" @Rust mentioned and @175eya requested more info on.Can you start a dedicated thread for engine flushes, I'd start another thread about flushes and PM him for a reply to it. That gives two specific topics that can both stay more specific and focused.
before i buy an oil pump and water pump and make @175eya show me how to do EVERYTHING (eternally humble servant), why not try the "cocktail" flush, especially because my TOD has been coming and going, ticking about 60% of the time, ever since i did an oil change and used 15-40 and some Slick-50, i guess a "cocktail" of it's own, but maybe another trip the bar for a "stiffer drink" or cocktail, as it were, will do the trick. i've only got 105K miles on it and already made progress by introducing a different weight oil.
so why not try the cheapest, easiest solution first?
if not, i would actually look forward to getting to know my subie's insides a bit better when putting in a new oil pump and water-pump.
was there a new thread topic ever started for a detailed description of the TOD cocktail flush method? -
In an effort to eliminate my TOD for good, i'm gonna swap out my oil pump, so i'm looking for a new one, but haven't found any that aren't priced very reasonably online.
hoping to get some tips one tracking down one directly.
and if i'm gonna be in there doing the oil pump, might as well do the water pump while i'm at it. they seem a lot cheaper than the oil pump, but if anyone has suggestions or a line on a water pump, i'd be very happy to know.
thanks much!
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If it isn't banging really bad, you can employ the factory supplied anti-ticking device. It will be in the middle of the dash.
the one i can even use my head to push?
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Just checked on Ebay and I don't see any kits with the seals for a reasonable price. Just gotta keep a look out.
You can search for ea82 oil pump, subaru gl oil pump, and subaru loyale oil pump. Make sure you read the details, and if it has a picture the oil pump will look like the pictures in the thread I posted here:
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/124398-reassurance-thread-oil-pump-and-one-question/
Here's a rough and dirty guide to the process of replacing it too, if you're interested. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/124630-oil-pump-replacement-brief-guide-just-as-brief-pictures/?do=findComment&comment=1052476
i'll keep looking, but very impressed with your process and the needed adjustments you made, as far as fitting the new one in, nice work. hopefully i can get one and my TOD will soon be a thing of the past.
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Actually I'd recommend just replacing the whole pump. That's what I did on mine. I found it for like 70 bucks on ebay with the seals too. Wouldn't hurt to do the water pump too, but, hey, you never know. The original one might go for another 200,000 miles.
my mistake, you did say just swap the whole pump, i think i confused it with when you first said it woulda been good to have that done when i got the timing belt replaced, same idea, if you're gonna bother taking all that out, might as well do that while you're in there. if i can get the water-pump, maybe i will do that too, although when i had the timing belt replaced, it fixed my overheating problem 100%, and now the temp gauge almost never goes above a 1/5th of the way up from dead cold, except when i run the A/C, which i had the opportunity to do for the first time a few days ago when we had our first 80 degree day (and it works great!
) even while driving on the highway midday, after driving around for at least an hour before that, while running the A/C as max cold and fan, the temp gauge only went up to just under halfway. seems like the water pump might be working fine, but who knows how long it's got left on it...correct me if i'm wrong, but there's no guarantee or way to know for sure, even if we were able to get a close look at it.anyway, send me the link to the ebay auction for that oil pump w/ seals if you get a chance, i wanna take a look and order it asap. thanks again.
Suspension/Coils for Loyale Alternatives?
in Subaru Retrofitting
Posted
having serious regrets about messing around w/ my Loyale, "Joan Crawlins" after i finally had her in the best shape she's been in since i got her last Winter in Penn.
everything was great as stock, but then i put in a 2" inch lift to gain clearance over sand in btwn the tracks on a rutted out access road to the beach. that messed up the camber of the front wheels something awful (pics here: http://s406.photobucket.com/user/GlenSzabo/library/2%20inch%20Lift%20kit%20and%2015%20inch%20Pugs)
and after tracking down some 15" alloy pugs in a junkyard in Pennsylvania and ordering lugs from Dan in Sacramento, i thought that would help the camber issue, but it didn't solve nearly enough for daily driving.
so pulled the lift kit out, but kept the pugs on and had to cut a bunch of the wells out cause i was getting lots of rubbing since my suspension was in bad shape.
put in new struts in the front which helped, gonna put in struts in the back in the next couple days, but having no luck finding coils for the front.
CAN I USE COILS FOR ANOTHER SUBARU that are easily available? like a legacy? if so, what should i get?
also, now my camber is ok in the front, i'm getting positive camber in the back, which i can only guess was as a result of putting in and taking out the lift in the back.
once i put in new struts in the back and hopefully coils in the front, and then get everything aligned professionally, will my camber issues be solved, theoretically?
just ruing my decision to have changed anything at this point, but all's not lost by along shot and if i can get the suspension finished and the alignment solves the camber, i'll be happy to have the Pugs on rather than the stock 13"s.
here's a look at where i'm at now: http://s406.photobucket.com/user/GlenSzabo/library/Loyale%20Camber%20Issues
@175eya @CoyotePaws @Mechanical_Misfit
thanks for the help folks, as always, i'm eternally grateful for the advice and support.
-Glen