chaz345

And 12. http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://img.gawkerassets.com/post/12/2012/02/subaru_1.jpg&imgrefurl=http://kcsubaru.com/showthread.php?8645-The-Subaru-flat-12-F1-engine&h=360&w=640&sz=56&tbnid=FjIYX2Dm4DuPsM:&tbnh=90&tbnw=160&zoom=1&usg=__3n6ZH9qBmJw7Qt9w6EFYrtqoG5o=&docid=ET5-Kp_BTAa90M&sa=X&ei=OVm7Ud7SI8LbrAHXrYGwCA&ved=0CDEQ9QEwAA&dur=2384 Although technically it wasn't really designed by Subaru and we don't like to talk about it because for it's intended purpose, F1 racing, it kind of sucked.

It might be just a slight miss and the added load from the AC makes it more noticeable.

Technically speaking, while the 95s were more or less OBD2, they weren't fully compliant with that standard which was fine since the mandate to get to OBD2 started in 96. But from an electroinics/diagnostics standpoint the 95s are a bit of strange beast.

In my neck of the woods I'm going to need it to have a roof of some sort before I could even begin to consider it. That and about $15k more disposable dollars than I have at any given time. Someone mentioned that it would be plenty of fun with an EJ22 and based on how much fun a stock Leggy can be, at nearly a thousand pounds lighter I'm inclined to agree. That would bring the finished cost down to the 12 to 13k range. Or a nice frankenmotor? I get that more power is always better but a car that light with WRX oomph seems to me like it would be a handful to even keep planted.

https://www.factoryfive.com/kits/project-818/ Soooo much want here. 10k for the kit, 5k for WRX motor, transmission and a few suspension and brake bits and you've got yourself a car that would probably smoke a BRZ.

If it's during relatively sharp turning then I'd agree that it's probably torque bind. Does the AT Temp light ever flash several times on startup? If so then it's almost definitly torque bind and is most probably the duty C solenoid.

I've never seen the external thermometer on any car be very accurate.

I think you'd be able to find any number of people who would be happy to put in an EJ22 and do any lifting/suspension mods needed to build a beasty off road thrasher for a lot less than what you have available.

Repeat after me " Les Schwabe is ONLY for tires, Les Schwabe is ONLY for tires." The stories Ive heard and the things I've seen even for routine brake jobs have cause me to never even consider thinking about having them do anything other than tires. My wife went there to get an alignment on her 2000 Chevy Venture and they said they couldn't do it because the wheel bearings were bad. They wanted $900 to do the job. I know what the parts cost and I know how long it should take, that's at least 2 to 3 times what is reasonable. But that's not even the worst part. The worst is that bearings so bad that the alignmnet wouldn't be possible would be noticeably loose, and there wasn't a hint of play or noise from them. Again "Les Schwabe is ONLY for tires."

Depending on your goals, it may make more sense to build a frankenmotor, which would be EJ22 heads on the EJ25 block. It's not like you'd be able to run massive boost and get up to WRX like power numbers on a stock EJ25 block anyway so the 20 to 30 hp gain that going franken would get you would be pretty much all you could do with a turbo anyway, if longevity/reliability is of any concern.

I think the suggestions on repair are based on the fact that it's really a pretty simple and not all that expensive fix and we don't want to see the car end up junked. Quarter million isn't time to move on with an EJ22, in fact, that's about when I buy them. But if the goal for the owner is the most affordable transportation possible, repairing this one is, without a doubt, going to be less expensive than anything else.

My guess would be that you damaged the injectors in some way when you pulled them out of the fuel rail. They are darn near impossible to get out without breaking them. Pressing on the pedal to "prime" it is actually something from the days of automatic chokes on carburated engines and on this era of Subie it actually turns off the injectors for a short time and is used to clear a flooded condition. The fact that is siezes when trying to start and when it runs it's obivously VERY rich says to me that so much fuel is getting dumped in there that its wasking the oil off the cylindr walls. I don't know how much a fuel pressure regulator costs, or how much of a pain in the butt it is to replace, but unless it's very cheap and easy, I'd go pull some injectors(just take the whole rail assembly) from the junkyard and try that. EDITED to remove incorrect information. I wrongly assumed that the 90 used the same injectors that my 91 did.

DOH, my bad, didn't see that we were talking about a 97 and/or forgot that they are interference.

I'm wondering how one would even go about bending a valve on an EJ22. Also wondering why repairing isn't an option. New(rebuilt) heads aren't much $$, or you could pull some from a junkyard and have them rebuilt for like $80 each and putting them on isn't too tough with a haynes manual and apprpriate tools. Heck, around here you could even pick up a running reasonalbe miles whole engine for $400 or so and have it installed and be down the road for not all that much. I guess it depends on the condition of the rest of the vehicle though as to wether or not that's worth doing.

Want some real fun, slap an EJ22 in one of those guys and hold on for dear life.

I've never done anything like that but from what I understand, it's rarely a quick and easy thing like that. It's not a simple bolt in,plug in the wiring and go sort of thing. WIth swapping different EJ series engines, the wiring is often close enough that it's not a major production, but in moving from an EA to an EJ, you need a whole new wiring harness in the car. I suppose if you had enough money to throw at it GD or someone else with a shop could hire the appropriate help and bust it out in a hurry, but for what you'd spend, you'd be able to just buy an older Legacy anyway.

Superior Subie and Imports on McGloughlin 503-880-4084 He's known on this board as General Disorder and definitely knows his stuff. If it can be done with a Subie, he's done it, if it can't be done, he'll try to figure out a way to make it possible. Last time I was at his shop he actually had the swap you are asking about in progress.

All EJ25s are interference. I may be mistaken but I believe there is one version where valve to piston interference is almost non-existant but in that engine because of the angles, valve to valve interference is likely if something goes bad with the timing belt.

In that age range, it's going to take r-12 which is difficult to impossible to get and huge $$$ if you can get it. I know that some AC systems can be altered to run on the r-134 but I'm not sure it's possible with that beastie.

This probably goes without saying but I'll say it just in case. We changing transmission fluid always check the fluid level with the engine running and make sure you are looking at the proper(hot or cold) side of the dipstick

On older vehicles, drain and replace is nearly always preferable to a flush. Problem with flushing is that they will often force fluid through the system backwards and seals and clutches tend to not like that. In any case calling Midas for transmission advice is like calling McDonalds for advice with gourmet cooking. As for what to do, drain, fill, drive 5 to 10 miles, repeat 2 more times. That sould give you a good clean batch of fluid to run on. But old/worn fluid can definitely cause shifting wierdness and nearly 100K is definitely more than enough miles, I think the suggested interval is either 30k or 60k.

If that were the case I'd suspect that the exhaust would smell very rich even after the car is well warmed up.

I believe that Megasquirt is what they went with on the very high CR frankenmotor I was talking about but I may be mistaken. I do know that a Subie can be made to run quite well with a Megasquirt though.

Disclaimer: I've not built or owned any sort of Frankenmotor. I have picked up a fair bit of information about them from shooting the breeze with my mechanic who has built many frankens. Is not a simple question with a single answer due to different pistons and different head volumes having been used on different years. There's quite a range of possible compression ratios that you can end up with. I know at the higher end of the spectrum, the computer gets very unhappy as it's not capable of adjusting the timing enough to prevent detonation, even on high octane fuel. My mechanic and a friend built one of the highest possible compression ratio combinations and were having major issues with the ECU being unhappy. Their eventual solution was to get a tuneable ECU and run the thing on E85. Probably ended up with some of the highest possible output from a frankenmotor but I'm not sure the additional few HP was worth all the extra expense. You sould be able to get close to 180hp out of one that has a more manageable compression ratio.

Couldn't he get around the CEL problem by bringing the computer from the donor vehicle?