tdodge41

Additional information, I can't seem to get it to turn over now, no matter how much I am pumping the pedal. It just doesn't want to get going.

Have been driving my weber carb'd GL-10 for a few months now and it has been running pretty good, although the weather has been pretty terrible and I have had to drive through some rain. Anyway, recently about a month ago all the power windows stopped working, which I thought was weird. Then about a week ago I go out and its dead. Totally dead. I charge it up and drive again and its good, come out and again its dead. And this time I can't get it to turn back over again. Appears its getting fuel. Fuel filters seem fine, and just swapped alternators. Is this a ground problem somewhere? Where would I even start? As always the community input is much appreciated.

Thanks for the heads up on this! Thanks for this link collection. The last link there I contacted the seller and he said it wouldnt work for a DGV carb, so I dismissed that idea. The top two look promising, just wish I knew where they connected on the weber.

I didnt know if a DGV carb could be converted to electric. I would certainly be interested in it, just didnt know if it was possible.

So now I am wondering, does anyone have a suggestion for where to buy a manual choke kit for a dgv Weber carb. The ones on eBay I am told are for the electric choke carbs.

Thanks DaveT, I see where there are different circles where a choke cable could run, so I dont think hooking into the drivers side would be the issue. I am wondering how the cable mounts to the carb or around the carb to run the cable to the choke plate? Does a mounting bracket come with a kit you would buy, or do I need to fashion a bracket?

Thanks 87subbomber, the next step is, does anyone have any experience in hooking up a manual choke on a weber? Looks like most out there are electric choke. Included are pictures of my current throttle set up. Forgive the crappy return spring hook up. Does the throttle somehow engage the choke at all, or should they be separate?

I am the current owner of the EA81 1983 GL-10 here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/155248-83-gl10-rupert/page-4?hl=rupert I just cant get the thing to idle right and to drive down the road right. I switched to a weber and it was used, so I got a rebuild kit and redid the gaskets and the rubber washers. As I go down the road when I am accelerating it runs fine, but when I attempt to maintain speed in any gear it begins jerking pretty hard. I imagine this is some kind of issue of getting too much fuel or too much air, but I cant figure out how that would be. I checked the jets when I took the weber apart and this is what i'm running: Primary Main 140 Secondary Main 135 Primary Air 165 Secondary Air 160 Primary Idle 50 Secondary Idle 55 My next concern is that my throttle isnt hooked up right. This is a weber DGV 32/36 with a manual choke, which at the moment is not hooked up. I figured the choke would effect me while starting up, but didnt think it would effect going down the road. Could this be the issue? I have a throttle kit coming soon in the mail. Any other suggestions, I am wide open to them all.

I feel like I need to resurrect this thread and do some continuing. I bought Rupert about a year ago, and have done a little bit here and there with the car. The biggest thing is getting the trans leak fixed and getting the weber carb on there and tuned. Weber is on, tuning will happen after the rain and before the snow. I will do my best to get some current pictures of the car up pretty soon and soak in all the weber goodness. Unfortunately I had to neglect my brat most of the summer, which is a bit sad.

I have heard two different things on this. One is that you have to pull the trans and split the case to do seals, the other says it's a pretty simple job where you just need to pull the axle. What do we figure here? Also, any tips on doing those seals would be awesome! Thanks!

Thanks, I will make sure and do that. Although slightly concerned about what to do with the bad fuel when I empty it. I have recycled oil before at auto parts stores, but I know those spots can be iffy about recycling other fluids.

Last year I bought an lovely 1983 GL-10 that my buddy The Desert Fox aka Jimbo aka mechanical_misfit brought back from Denver. Well, I let it sit for the winter with a full tank of gas. When I began driving it again it started off driving great. But as the last two weeks have gone on there is hesitation that is getting worse and worse, as well as not being able to idle anymore, and pumping the hell out of the gas pedal to get it to start up at all. I put a can of seafoam in it and drove about 20 miles hoping it would help the problem, and it did a small amount. The car accelerates great with the pedal all the way to the floor, but still doesn't want to idle and has lots of hesitation other places. I am planning on doing a Weber swap (need info on this BTW, everything on the forum I am finding has these dead links), but before then, should I start replacing fuel filters and such. There is also an electrical noise coming from the primary fuel filter area at the rear of the car, and some electrical crackling when I turn the key just short of on at the distributor. I am planning on going through rock auto to grab some new fuel filters, distributor cap and rotor and new plugs just as general I-bought-this-car-and-want-to-make-sure-this-is-done. So mostly here wondering why the hesitation would have gotten so bad (and how to solve it) as well as wondering if folks have advice for doing the weber swap. Thanks, I also plan on starting (and continuing) a build thread as soon as I get a moment.

So I finally came across a new gas tank for my 1985 Brat that lives with me here in Michigan. What I am wondering is... what kind of treatment should I give this tank so it will never (hypothetically) rust through again, at least in my life time? Any advice will be greatly appreciated. I want to make sure its nice and protected, even though I dont drive the car in the wintertime.

Alright I will be doing this as soon as I get home and see if this can help my lack-of-idle issue.

So when I was unscrewing the valve the wire broke off right at the base of the valve. I have been having idling problems for a few months now, so I am sure this is the issue. Do you think idle could increase if I am able to reconnect power to the valve and totally unpack it? And thanks for all your help Dan, I am hoping this will help me avoid a full carb rebuild. -Travis