Log1call

There is a small plastic clip holding the lock operating rod to the door. That clip is meant to provide enought friction that operating the inside door handle will not make the rod move and lock the door. When the friction clip gets worn there is enough friction between the handle and the lock handle to make the lock go on when you open the door with the inside handle. I have fixed a few by glueing a small piece of polystyrene foam to the door between the door and the lock rod to provide friction. Hope that is understandable, hopefully it will be when you get into the door and try working the door handle a few times and see what happens.

Ha, and perhaps that is lipstick on Badbrian's photo?

Have you checked fo trouble codes? It could also be the temp sensor? While you are in there you could check all the pipes and retorque the valve bodies. They can work loose(or perhaps they don't get tightened properly). Preferably remove the bodies and tighten the bolts on top as well, or, just check the ones from the bottom and if there were several loose then pull the valve body and do the lot.

That theory is wrong Nipper. If you have a hole in something(a washer say) and you heat the washer the hole in the washer will behave the same way as the material that is not there would have behaved, so the hole gets bigger. Think about fitting a ring gear Nipper. What do you do? What happens? The only exception is if you have a large block of metal and you only heat it locally around or near the hole, then the material can distort and expand into the hole due to being hemmed in by the cold and unexpanded material..

They often have a roll-pin inside a roll-pin. That makes them very tight. The outside one is about six mills and the smaller one fits inside the big one and locks it. If you punch the smaller one first with a small diameter punch it comes out easily, then you can knock the bigger one out easily as well. You put them back in big one first then the smaller one. Often they have had the small one lost or left out on purpose, then they drive out easily.

I realise you have found a different manual now and have sorted it, but, for future reference... Subaru manuals are not always consistent in the way they label pins in plugs. I'd suspect the picture you were looking at might have been a back view or a front view when you were expecting the opposite. Have a look at how thay have labeled the OBD2 plug for your car and use that to figure which way around your diagrams are. Actually, on second thought, I thnk they can change from wiring section to section in some manuals. You probably just have to check every instance you come across.

A faulty knock sensor is not going to stop the engine though! There will be water somewhere near the ignition or in an electrical connector to do with the efi.

Left and right heads can be swapped. You don't flip them over, you swing them around the front or back of the engine as it were, and they go on the other side with exhaust down but front bolt holes at rear and rear oil holes at front.

Did you grind the valves? It could have a burnt valve. Did it have leaking valves before you took it apart? If not... When you had it apart did you strip the heads and clean them? Have you checked the valve clearance?

I notice that back of a head shot has nice clean bolt holes shown. Could those bolts be meant to be at the front of the vehicle? Could you have the left and right heads swapped?

Both these problems sound like electrical. Did the wires get disconnected when the engine got changed over? The second poster should check for trouble codes from the transmission. His car sounds like it's in limp mode.

I think you need to post a picture. It sounds to me as though you have pulled the seal out of a spigot bearing. Was the seal about thirty mills in diameter? The crank seal is about one-hundred mills in diameter and it's outside of the crank's bolt holes.

Whow... Good shot Turbone! Always pays to start with the simple stuff huh?

Are you sure it needs reboring? These motors usualy have good bores forever. I'd try for a new set of rings, regrooved pistons, big-end and main bearings, valve grind, gaskets, seals and cam belt. The pump you can inspect and measure and unless it's buggered you can put it back on again, they are easy to do later.

you have a overheating transmission(well it reckons it's too hot and by the sound of that oil I'd say the clutch is burnt and it is right), and that makes the motor rev high to circulate more oil through the cooler. The MAf codes may be caused by the high idle, but I'm just guessing there. It is a complcated situation and you should go to a dealer for a diagnosis, then get a second opinion.