vladvv

I actually did that yesterday. I inspected the valve and it does have an arrow on it. I can blow air easily in the reverse direction, and can blow air through in the direction of the arrow but only with a lot of force... I replaced the valve with a piece of hose and tried to fuel up, I didn't see fumes coming out by the filler and it did not click off so that must be the problem. The part is like $50 from Subaru or something so I'm going to try to clean it with carb cleaner/air/etc (stuck ball or something?) If that doesn't help next time I go to junk yard I will pull a couple and play with them to see if they are passing air in the right direction. I'm thinking the hose might be better than the defective valve since at least it passes air from tank to canister... I was considering actually flipping the valve but if there's dirt or stuff in there it's probably not the best idea.

Really? for some reason it's listed as "two-way valve" in parts lists and FSM... makes sense... the its purpose is to let the excess air pass from gas tank, but not back?

I had the gas cap off when I was running the pump, so there was no pressure. I am experiencing gas shut off at many stations, and when I pull it out so it does not stop I can see massive amounts of fuel vapors pouring out of the side of the filler. I'm surprised that the "two way valve" is a proprietary part, but there's no procedure in the FSM for cleaning/inspecting/diagnosing any issues with it. I think I'm going to try filling up without the valve installed and if there's a dramatic change assume that's it.

Just wanted to follow up for anyone searching in the future: The BPT was the problem. Another post told me to remove top and look at the white foam stuff inside, and if you see any black it's already bad. I did this and mine had black. I went to junk yard and used the same method to find good ones - only found one where the foam was white, grabbed that and installed on my car. Immediately I saw EGR valve start opening with throttle opening. This was two months ago or so, no check engine codes or anything since then - so seems to have fixed the issue completely.

Hello, I'm trying to figure out my evap issue This is my 95 legacy automatic, with the charcoal canister under the hood When I go to fill up at a gas station the pump always cuts off, and I can see fuel vapors pouring out of the filler if I move it back and fill up that way. I believe this tells me the line between gas tank and charcoal canister is clogged. Diagnostic: I took off the line going to tank from canister, and removed the 2-way valve (Part 14) I blew air into the tank bound line with a tire pump, and could feel air gently coming out of gas tank: so I guess this line is clear I blew air into the charcoal canister and could feel air coming out the other line, so I assume canister is clear Blowing air through the 2-way valve is very difficult, but I can (with my mouth...) I suspect the 2-way valve, but I have no idea what it's supposed to act like. Looking through FSM I did not find any instructions on testing it. Can anyone tell me how this part should behave or how to test it?

My car sits level, but the struts are original and I can tell they are tired - the fronts I think have been leaking for a long time and if I hit the brakes the car takes a nose dive. (Some asked about axle boots/ ball joints: I replaced one axle that was clicking, other one looks fine. I replaced one outer tie rod end, both inners, inner boots, am planning on replacing one ball joint which feels tight but the boot has been torn for a while)

thanks guys, I'll try to get in touch with djmark7. Looks like top hats people say mixed things, I know my boots are torn so I'm guessing bump stops are in similar shape. I'll be ordering new boots/bump stops, struts and maybe top hats depending on what I do or do not get from djmark Coils are usually fine unless they are cracked or broken, right?

Getting ready to order parts to replace all 4 struts on my 95 legacy. What else should be replaced with the struts? Looking at the front mounts, the rubber looks cracked - so should I get new shock mounts (top hats... whatever they are called) In the parts diagram there is some sort of rubber liner/insulator? Also bump stops and the rubber boots (torn) ? And should I replace the alignment bolts while I have them off? they look pretty rusty. Just want to get a complete kit before I take things apart. Thanks.

Compared to other cars, the airflow in my 95 Legacy L Wagon seems very weak. I replaced the AC compressor so the cooling works fine, but I feel like even on the highest setting it maybe moves half the air that other cars do. From what I read there is not a cabin air filter, but is there an intake or something that gets clogged? Also there is a quiet sound connected to the vent speed, so I'm thinking something may be stuck in the motor? How hard are these to get to?

Which nipple is that? On the bottom of BPT? All the other metal lines I cleaned out to begin with, and the rubber lines replaced with new

Yeah that's what I've been reading online... they are pretty expensive I'm going to see if I can find one in a junk yard, but of course rubber diaphragm exposed to exhaust can only last so long so I can see the risk in getting a used one

Never mind, I took off throttle body again and saw the lines actually connect before the throttle plate, not after it - meaning there should be no vacuum with throttle plate closed, or wide open. Vacuum should be present at partially open throttle. On with the diagnostic - I measured vacuum before and after the BPT since I already tested the valve and solenoid. These were the results. I temporarily bypassed the BPT and saw that the EGR valve started opening with throttle. I don't know how exactly it works, but it looks to me as if there is an obstruction in the BPT. Going to take it off and see if I can clean it.

Hello everyone, I'm trying to diagnose my P0400 EGR flow error code. Operating the EGR valve by hand bogs down engine, so valve does something. I can hear a clicking in the solenoid. I replaced the vacuum hoses and cleaned the passages to the best of my ability, but here's what I don't understand: The two small EGR related hoses coming off the throttle body, should these be a source of vacuum at idle? I plugged a vacuum gauge into both and got 0 PSI, even thought I took off throttle body to clean the passages out. Should I be getting -20PSI that I am in other places, or am I reading this wrong?

So today I put on some Beck/Arney brakes, and I bled through another pint and a half of DOT3, and after bedding the brakes it's a ton better - I can still press the pedal to the floor, but I was able to lock up brakes in the dry triggering ABS. It does not feel as good as other cars but since wheels lock up I guess problem solved! I might try bleeding another bottle through after driving around a bit but now I feel the car is safe to drive. One thing to note is even thought I did not get a single bubble bleeding, I was still getting pockets of dirty fluid here and there.

I'm not aware of accident damage, and I do not see any signs of bodywork/repair, ABS unit looks original. The wheel bearing issue if I understand correctly would mean your pedal can build up good pressure when car is not moving, but would get sloppier from driving - my pedal does not have good pressure even when at a standstill. Vacuum bleeding I have not tried, so maybe that's worth a shot.