vladvv

I actually did that yesterday. I inspected the valve and it does have an arrow on it. I can blow air easily in the reverse direction, and can blow air through in the direction of the arrow but only with a lot of force... I replaced the valve with a piece of hose and tried to fuel up, I didn't see fumes coming out by the filler and it did not click off so that must be the problem. The part is like $50 from Subaru or something so I'm going to try to clean it with carb cleaner/air/etc (stuck ball or something?) If that doesn't help next time I go to junk yard I will pull a couple and play with them to see if they are passing air in the right direction. I'm thinking the hose might be better than the defective valve since at least it passes air from tank to canister... I was considering actually flipping the valve but if there's dirt or stuff in there it's probably not the best idea.

Really? for some reason it's listed as "two-way valve" in parts lists and FSM... makes sense... the its purpose is to let the excess air pass from gas tank, but not back?

I had the gas cap off when I was running the pump, so there was no pressure. I am experiencing gas shut off at many stations, and when I pull it out so it does not stop I can see massive amounts of fuel vapors pouring out of the side of the filler. I'm surprised that the "two way valve" is a proprietary part, but there's no procedure in the FSM for cleaning/inspecting/diagnosing any issues with it. I think I'm going to try filling up without the valve installed and if there's a dramatic change assume that's it.

Just wanted to follow up for anyone searching in the future: The BPT was the problem. Another post told me to remove top and look at the white foam stuff inside, and if you see any black it's already bad. I did this and mine had black. I went to junk yard and used the same method to find good ones - only found one where the foam was white, grabbed that and installed on my car. Immediately I saw EGR valve start opening with throttle opening. This was two months ago or so, no check engine codes or anything since then - so seems to have fixed the issue completely.

Hello, I'm trying to figure out my evap issue This is my 95 legacy automatic, with the charcoal canister under the hood When I go to fill up at a gas station the pump always cuts off, and I can see fuel vapors pouring out of the filler if I move it back and fill up that way. I believe this tells me the line between gas tank and charcoal canister is clogged. Diagnostic: I took off the line going to tank from canister, and removed the 2-way valve (Part 14) I blew air into the tank bound line with a tire pump, and could feel air gently coming out of gas tank: so I guess this line is clear I blew air into the charcoal canister and could feel air coming out the other line, so I assume canister is clear Blowing air through the 2-way valve is very difficult, but I can (with my mouth...) I suspect the 2-way valve, but I have no idea what it's supposed to act like. Looking through FSM I did not find any instructions on testing it. Can anyone tell me how this part should behave or how to test it?

My car sits level, but the struts are original and I can tell they are tired - the fronts I think have been leaking for a long time and if I hit the brakes the car takes a nose dive. (Some asked about axle boots/ ball joints: I replaced one axle that was clicking, other one looks fine. I replaced one outer tie rod end, both inners, inner boots, am planning on replacing one ball joint which feels tight but the boot has been torn for a while)

thanks guys, I'll try to get in touch with djmark7. Looks like top hats people say mixed things, I know my boots are torn so I'm guessing bump stops are in similar shape. I'll be ordering new boots/bump stops, struts and maybe top hats depending on what I do or do not get from djmark Coils are usually fine unless they are cracked or broken, right?

Getting ready to order parts to replace all 4 struts on my 95 legacy. What else should be replaced with the struts? Looking at the front mounts, the rubber looks cracked - so should I get new shock mounts (top hats... whatever they are called) In the parts diagram there is some sort of rubber liner/insulator? Also bump stops and the rubber boots (torn) ? And should I replace the alignment bolts while I have them off? they look pretty rusty. Just want to get a complete kit before I take things apart. Thanks.

Compared to other cars, the airflow in my 95 Legacy L Wagon seems very weak. I replaced the AC compressor so the cooling works fine, but I feel like even on the highest setting it maybe moves half the air that other cars do. From what I read there is not a cabin air filter, but is there an intake or something that gets clogged? Also there is a quiet sound connected to the vent speed, so I'm thinking something may be stuck in the motor? How hard are these to get to?

Which nipple is that? On the bottom of BPT? All the other metal lines I cleaned out to begin with, and the rubber lines replaced with new

Yeah that's what I've been reading online... they are pretty expensive I'm going to see if I can find one in a junk yard, but of course rubber diaphragm exposed to exhaust can only last so long so I can see the risk in getting a used one

Never mind, I took off throttle body again and saw the lines actually connect before the throttle plate, not after it - meaning there should be no vacuum with throttle plate closed, or wide open. Vacuum should be present at partially open throttle. On with the diagnostic - I measured vacuum before and after the BPT since I already tested the valve and solenoid. These were the results. I temporarily bypassed the BPT and saw that the EGR valve started opening with throttle. I don't know how exactly it works, but it looks to me as if there is an obstruction in the BPT. Going to take it off and see if I can clean it.

Hello everyone, I'm trying to diagnose my P0400 EGR flow error code. Operating the EGR valve by hand bogs down engine, so valve does something. I can hear a clicking in the solenoid. I replaced the vacuum hoses and cleaned the passages to the best of my ability, but here's what I don't understand: The two small EGR related hoses coming off the throttle body, should these be a source of vacuum at idle? I plugged a vacuum gauge into both and got 0 PSI, even thought I took off throttle body to clean the passages out. Should I be getting -20PSI that I am in other places, or am I reading this wrong?

So today I put on some Beck/Arney brakes, and I bled through another pint and a half of DOT3, and after bedding the brakes it's a ton better - I can still press the pedal to the floor, but I was able to lock up brakes in the dry triggering ABS. It does not feel as good as other cars but since wheels lock up I guess problem solved! I might try bleeding another bottle through after driving around a bit but now I feel the car is safe to drive. One thing to note is even thought I did not get a single bubble bleeding, I was still getting pockets of dirty fluid here and there.

I'm not aware of accident damage, and I do not see any signs of bodywork/repair, ABS unit looks original. The wheel bearing issue if I understand correctly would mean your pedal can build up good pressure when car is not moving, but would get sloppier from driving - my pedal does not have good pressure even when at a standstill. Vacuum bleeding I have not tried, so maybe that's worth a shot.

I've been doing by the manual, I'll try to bleed and push a bunch more fluid through. I'm also looking at building a DIY pressure bleeder maybe that will help... My ABS module looks dry where the brake lines connect, is that where it leaked? Also what was the solution? replacing the module?

Actually I do notice my MC moving forward a little when brake is pressed - I assumed that was normal, you're saying that could be an issue? I tried just now to put my foot on the brake with car on and leave it there... I was almost at the bottom and could press it to the bottom easily, but pedal pushed back a little above that so I held it there. About a minute later it had not dropped at all - I'm assuming this means there is no leak? Points me back to air in the lines so maybe I just did not push through all the bubbles. I bled until I saw the bubbles stop coming out, and then bled some more seeing only clear fluid coming through. I guess I will try to bleed some more, I'm thinking of throwing on some different pads but honestly the pedal does not feel right and I don't see pedal feel changing much just because of pads (or am I wrong?)

I feel that if there is any sort of leak I should be able too press pedal down and hold it, and then feel it lose pressure and sink to the floor over some period of time, mine goes to the floor to begin with pretty much which points to air in the lines but I've already bled them so much!

Were you noticing any fluid drop in the reservoir over time? Also how obvious was the leak? I inspected the seal of every caliper and did not notice any wetness

I know it's an old car but I really think it should be a lot better than having to slam the pedal to the floor... Is there any special bleeding procedure I'm missing? A power bleeder is not required for these cars, correct? And is there any special procedure for ABS bleeding? I tried bleeding for a long time, easily went through over a pint of fluid. I had a 98 legacy with autozone cheapass pads on it and it could stop a lot faster than this. Also I feel like if calipers were completely clamping down brake pedal would feel harder than it currently does... How much would getting grease on pads affect them?

Trying to figure out my brake issue.. Anyways I got the car, and I noticed the brakes were super soft/spongy. First thing that came to my mind is air in the lines - so I bled the lines and tested the brakes. I still could not lock up the wheels even in the rain! I checked the master cylinder nuts to make sure they were tight, and they were. I checked all the brakes - I can not see any of the brakes leaking upon checking all 4 calipers. I lifted the calipers and looked at the pads, and greased the slider pins while I was there. Could not find anything so I decided I have a bad master cylinder. Today I got a replacement master cylinder, I installed it and bled everything again. My bleeding procedure is as follows: loosen fittings on MC while someone pushes pedal, close it and tell them to release. Repeat this couple times. Then do each wheel opening after they start pressing, and closing before they end pressing (Order: FR, BL, FL, BR) After this I drove the car and when I mash the pedal to the floor (in the rain again) the wheels do lock up but it still feels VERY spongy. When I sat down in my dad's forester ('09) hitting the brakes immediately locked up the wheels and confirmed that my Legacy still sucks. I'm not sure how to proceed. The pads I have are of unknown brand, but they have plenty of meat left on them (1/2 thick each or so?) They do seem to have too much grease, but the grease is on the back side and has not gotten on the braking surface. I feel that even if they are the cheapest brakes ever, they should be able to lock up my wheels - right? I am not driving the car at the moment because I do not feel it is safe to do so, I'm amazed it passed NYS inspection with how bad the brakes were to begin with. Car is 95 legacy wagon, 4 wheel disk brakes and ABS Oh yeah I also replaced all 4 brake hoses. Am I missing something? Can I adjust the push rod? Is air trapped in the ABS system?

Yes I didn't take pictures but I replaced the throttle body hose, the water pump hose, both heater hoses and the rad hoses. The Gates hoses worked really well. I neglected to fill from the top hose, I figured filling radiator would go down that hose anyways. Also the small plastic fitting I removed and when I was replacing it I snapped it off, but it did seal so I'm just going to leave that alone until I grab one from the junk yard or something.

So I finally got car back together, took me way longer than it should have but I was distracted this weekend with other things. Anyways, if anyone wants pictures for reference or whatever I have an album here: http://imgur.com/a/CnoX4 And some notes and/or problems I ran into: Snapped bolt... terrible and hours of time wasted... Could not extract it since it was really seized in there, ended up drilling it out and attempting to re tap the threads back to M6 but those did not hold, ended up getting a Helicoil set which was expensive but worked really really well at restoring the threads, new bolt holds strong. Heater hoses: The Gates hoses were a great fit, here is a photo comparing the Gates hoses vs the OEM hoses http://i.imgur.com/npAh95Mh.jpg Pretty damn good. I could not get the heat shield sleeves off of the old ones so I decided not to use them. Timing belt covers: A lot of these bolt into a small metal nut held in by brittle old plastic in the rear cover, and the back of this nut/bolt assembly is exposed to the elements. I believe 75% broke on removal. I used longer bolts with a washer and a nut to hold the covers on, this works fine since the hole goes all the way through the rear cover. Burping air out of cooling system... I read in some places raising the car helps, I put the front on ramps and tried burping the car, I never got the air blowing hot inside and my temp gauge started to climb above the middle, I got worried and shut the car off. I let it cool for a while and then tried to put the ramps under the back of the car, and then the front again. Rocking the car back and forth seemed to quickly get bubbles out. After this everything seemed fine, with heat working and temp gauge staying below middle. This is all while squeezing hoses and such. Oil pump seal: Everyone says put the seal on the pump when it's out. I could not get it to go on the crankshaft like this, it would always catch on the lip and I ended up damaging one seal. The next one I put the oil pump in first and then tapped in the seal with no issues. To each his own I guess. Hose clamps: If your car is old and driven in the north east United States, I can guarantee the lower screw clamps will be seized and will fall apart. I bought the Subaru OEM ones and replaced those. Some hoses use spring clamps, for example the small water pump hose - in my experience these are a lot more durable and I was able to reuse every single one, they still had good tension. Upon starting the car I got a temperature sensor error code with a check engine light. I reset it and it did not come back. Maybe something to do with low coolant? Or maybe I nudged the sensor when I was changing the throttle body hose? btw: behind oil pump is kind of dark/greasy... felt like a fine film of old oil, is this normal or a sign of missed oil changes? Thanks everyone for the help answering my questions!

I'm thinking Anaerobic would have been better but I already did it up with Permatex Ultra Gray (Subaru recommended I believe) I ran a bead as small as I could and pretty far from the inside edge where ever possible... I guess if it fails it will be a costly lesson heh

Thanks but I already have a unit put in that I had from before... I'm not going to be in Binghamton until late August, but I can't wait to go to Gary's because I know they always have lots of mid 90s to early 2000s subarus