14D

The part that confuses me is that there was no visible leak before the radiator blew. I checked the coolant level a few weeks prior and it was fine. I did the timing belt job before I realized the input bearing on the trans is going. This combined with a slew of other parts needing replacement have made me decide to stop putting money into it. I'll mess with it when I get some time tomorrow, started a new job and been super busy. Sounds like I can borrow my brothers old car till I can afford a new one, so at least I'll have a car if the soob is dead. Thanks for all the input, I'll post the results after I mess with it some more.

I think a blew a head gasket yesterday and want to get some other's opinions before I scrap my car. 93 legacy wagon 2.2 5mt 272k miles. 3000 miles on new timing belt kit w/ water pump and xacstant thermostat. Never had an issue with over heating before but it started to use 8ozs or less of coolant every oil change or so within the last year or two. Noticed it was running pretty hot when I got home last night, temp gauge was at 90% or so. No signs of any leaks. Added a gallon of water in the morning (no antifreeze and didn't burp it, was in a hurry). Had it overheat 10 miles into my commute (heat didn't work at all), blowing out a seam on my radiator when it nearly pegged (spiked very quickly when I started up a long hill). I immediately turned around and coasted to a gas station. Added aprox a gal of water and antifreeze, leak isn't too bad, make it almost all the way home before it starts spiking (heat worked intermittently). Filled it with water later on and burped it once it was up to temp. Was still getting some bubbles by the bleeder screw when I revved the engine but it didn't smell like exhaust so may have just been some air bubbles. no bubbles from the filler cap or overflow tank. I know there was a big air bubble when i initially filled it this morning and that probably contributed to it's overheating, but all that water had to go somewhere. After the radiator blew it wasn't running long enough and the leak isn't big enough for it to lose over a gallon of water. No white smoke at any time. No water or coolant in the oil. This car is beat to hell and has been on its last leg for a while but if I can get a few more miles by jb welding the radiator I probably will. Not too much info out there on ej22 head gasket failure so any input is appreciated.

Found this writeup on NASIOC a while ago where the guy uses parts from mcmaster-carr. Possibly cheaper and easier to source. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=753869 Been too lazy to do this to my car, now it has bigger problems and it's days are numbered

This tool http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-Shaft-Type-Puller/dp/B000FPYW4K makes pulling old seals a breeze and is WELL worth it.

Just do it sooner rather then later or the extra vibration will cause other suspension components to fail. DAMHIK

Not sure about the newer engines but I was able to break the pulley bolts loose pretty easily with the timing belt still on (put transmission in high gear, have someone hold the brakes if necessary). Torque to spec after the belt is back on and everything is lined up. That home made tool looks pretty slick though.

93, 276k 3-4 has ground since i had it. Only If I shift fast though. If I shift slow, no problems. Never found anything concerning on the drain plug during fluid changes so I'm not worried about it. More bummed about spending $40 instead of $12, being the broke cheap-rump roast that I am.

Mostly 1-2 and 3-4, but downshifts are a lot rougher as well and they will all grind if i shift too fast. Only when its hot and city driving (stop and go) though. Seems to do fine on the highway or in stop and go as long as it not over 100 out. Maybe shifts a little rougher overall but its hard to tell as its always been a little rough if I shift too fast.

Grrr, wish I'd seen this thread before I changed out my trans fluid a couple weeks ago. I'm running Valvoline durablend 80w-90 (synthetic blend,"limited slip") and experience some grinding on upshifts but only when its really hot out (like 105). If I shift slow its ok, so I'll probably leave it in for the winter and change it before next summer. And I thought I was being nice to my car.

Crank and cam seals? These come with a lot of the ebay timing belt kits. Post a pic for confirmation. Get one of these to pull the old seals. http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-Shaft-Type-Puller/dp/B000FPYW4K

I've used a 2/3 arm puller on stuck ones before. Something like this would work even better though. http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html

Sweet, I'll have to pick one up. Couldn't tell if the impact spun it or not. Got it all back together yesterday and it still ain't running right. Being non-interference there's no way valves or pistons could have been damaged when the idler seized and the belt jumped, right? Hopefully the belt is just off by a tooth (although I checked it like five times) and its not a bad lifter or something else. Look for a new thread by the end of the day if it's not the belt!

That's what I was thinking and hoping to hear. Thanks! Is there much difference between one of these and just hitting a screwdriver socket bit with a hammer? Might have to pick one up if so.

In the middle of changing out my timing belt (and idlers, water pump, cam and crank seal, etc.) and pulled the oil pump to loctite the screws and reseal it. Only I can't get one of the screws out and it's started to strip. Tried loosening it with a scewdriver bit in a 1/4" socket after whacking it with a hammer a few times so it seems to be stuck pretty good. If i just loctite the other ones, think this one will be ok? I deburred it as best as possible and its not protruding above the backplate surface. I don't want to mess with extracting it if I don't have to. The car is old and pretty beat up, just trying to get in on the road for some temporary wheels so ultra longevity is not a concern. Hopefully I won't have it longer than another year or two, tops. The screw in question:

That's what I'm thinking at this point. I can't leave my car in its current position on jack stands for too long anyways. Looks like the cheaper one is a "Gabriel" or they can order a KYB one for twenty. I'll probably go with the cheaper one, I should have had them send it to the closer store so I could've checked it out/bought it today.