gbhrps

diem, Do you get continuity across the tabs from one side to the other of the grid? I know that the tabs are epoxy glued to the grid using a special epoxy that has a very high metal content (glass shops have this, expensive as well). Is it possible that one or more of yours is corroded under neath it? Should it or both be removed, the grid connection point cleaned up, and then reglued?

the_bard, One look at that brake rotor tells me that you have more things to correct on this car than the shock.

brus brother is correct again. Put the switch and your hands inside a large zip lock bag or similar, before you open it up. That way any springs, contacts, etc. that decide to take flight end up in the bag. Good Luck!

211, The nylon lock nuts are a good idea!

Fairtax4me is correct about cleaning the switch contacts. They can be cleaned with a simple pink eraser if the switch is apart. If it isn't, its possible to spray electrical contact cleaner into its seams and then cycle the switch several times to clear up the contacts. This might have to be done 2 or 3 times, depending on how much spray cleaner you get get into the switch. When doing the spray contact cleaner route, be sure to allow 2 or 3 minutes for the cleaner to evaporate before you turn on the ignition and try the switch. You'll have the possibility for a nasty short circuit otherwise. Buy the electrical contact cleaner at any auto parts dealer or Radio Shack. Good Luck!

211, I've put a trailer hitch on each OBW LTD's I've ever owned, one from each generation, and usually got them from the dealership, and all of them were a different manufacturer's product. Two were Drawtites. I don't believe that you'll be able to escape the flat bar under the exhaust pipe issue. What I can say, is that you should go with the larger capacity hitch at 3500 lbs. You never know when you may need to go that high with a trailer, but mainly because its got to be built better than the 2000 lb rated hitch. I have towed a heavy 17 foot fiberglass boat and motor on very flat terrain for 20 miles on several occasions, but would never attempt a long distance with that weight on an OBW. As far as ease of install, normal shop tools are all that is required, as all the needed parts come with the hitch. Some models and years need to have the heat shield above the mufflers pulled down, and have part of a corner of the shield cut off to clear the hitch, but no big deal. Finding the electrical plug for different years and models can be a pain. The install sheet on some hitches will say one location, but on two the the cars I've put hitches on, the plug was on the other side of the car. Go figure! Spend the money and get the better hitch weight, so you don't have to worry about the trailer passing you on the road. One last thought, if you are hauling heavy or have a lot of hilly country, don't go higher than 4th gear, as its too hard on the transmission. Good Luck!

jthclaw, Check out " jdmtigerjapanese.com " for used low mileage engines from Japan.

naldo, A lot of years ago I was where you're at now, and I too wanted the performance sports car that would suck the doorknobs off everything on the street. But the reality of "champagne on a beer budget" hit me between the eyes and I backed away from going there. Many years later I now found myself with the resources to own and enjoy having the toys, with none of the down side of years earlier. Wait until you can better justify the ownership, and then spring for a new one, or one that has been a summer toy for a mature driver, that has low mileage, all of the service records, and just screams of pride of ownership. They're out there. You may have to search a while to find one, but it'll so much more rewarding when you do. Good Luck!

Having owned a 2004 OBW LTD in the past, I can say that it was a great car. Mine, however, was an automatic. You'll like that the rear seats fold down flat, without having to flip the seat bottoms forward first. Of course, the head rests have to be pulled out to do that, which was fixed in the next generation. As for the slight grind going into first, I would think that its related to your high clutch misadjustment. I would wonder if there is an adjustment to make the clutch engagement correct. If not, a new clutch sounds in order. Hopefully the 5 speed owners here can give you more accurate info. As for the noisy engine, they still had the piston slap issue on some of those engines during that period. While its an annoyance, particularly when cold, it doesn't hurt the engine or its longevity. Good Luck!

naldo, If you're going backwards year wise, from a car whose issues you already know, to a car that has had questionable care, and one that has to have been cowboyed many times, and has to run on premium fuel, and has a lot of miles on it, you are heading into what could be a financial disaster for you insurance wise (did you check it out?), license wise (you may not have it for very long), and maintenance wise (price out a turbo and the cost to install it, not to mention a set of tires for those rims). Obviously you aren't rich, or you'd be buying a new WRX, and if you're looking at a 2005, an already 9 year old car, you have to be somewhat careful with your money. If that is the case, you don't want the WRX. As much as I would like to tell you to trade, you would be far better to stay with your Forester. Sorry, but you did ask for opinions.

pginter96, These rear wiper motors have a cast aluminum/pot/white metal casing with a steel drive shaft. Over time with salt and water and electrolisis the two metals corrode and the shaft seizes where it exits the casing. Yours sounds as its about to seize solidly due to the extreme cold temperatures, but later as the day warms up a bit it finally has enough clearance to free its self. I would pop the plastic cap off the wiper arm at the drive shaft, remove the 10 or 12 mm nut and pry the wiper arm off the shaft. Then fire some 3 in 1 oil or similar on the shaft and turn the motor on and add more oil. You'll most likely see much better performance. Unfortunately, like your emergency brake, use it or lose it. Lack of use allows for the parts to seize up. If you are inclined, pull the motor from the tailgate (its not hard to do). Once on the work bench drill out the rivets that hold the case together and pry the halves apart. A total clean up of the interior parts with new grease will make a huge difference. Simply put the motor back together again with machine screws and nuts. Good Luck!

Outdoorsman, I work part time in an auto restoration shop that frequently also does minor collision damage repairs. The collision work usually involves just one side of the vehicle, where typically the "FX4" decal (box side of a pickup) is destroyed, but the other side survives. These decals can run $75 to $100 or more per. With the customer's permission (because some want the original, regardless of cost) we photograph the other side/good decal and measure its height and width. We then take this on a flash card to a local sign/graphics shop where they duplicate the graphic on a brand new decal. The results are identical to the original for about a quarter of the price of factory. We have yet to be disappointed with the results. In your case, once you give them a picture of the original, they can even flip it for the opposite side of the car if needed. Shop around and I think you'll find that you can get what you want a lot more reasonably than from Subaru, if they are even available for that age of vehicle. Good Luck!

Your other option is to find a replacement JDM (Japanese Domestic Market) used engine that's been imported. Larger centers across the US and Canada sell them. Basically the Japanese government forces their citizens to scrap their cars starting when they become 4 years old. The taxes on older cars is just too high and most people junk them. Many are stripped of their engines, trannies, front clips, etc. and shipped world wide. Usually they only have 35 000 miles or so on them. Check the automotive trade papers/Auto Trader/Wheels/etc., in larger centers around you. I'm sure you'll find one. Check their pricing, shipping to you, and then find a good independent mechanic to install it. Don't do it at the dealership unless you have very deep pockets. And make sure that you get the same generation engine for your car, as well as the entire engine wiring harness and computer, if possible. That makes it a direct drop in without modifications. Then again, with some searching you might find a good used motor at a wreckers in your state. Good Luck!

NGK, I've been around long enough to remember all of those aftermarket sunroofs (1970's and 80's) you could buy and install yourself. Your best route is to go online and check out TG Automotive Sunroof & T Top Specialists. They have complete manual kits from $162 to $270 US. They look like well engineered units, and not too pricey. I'm sure there are others out there as well. Good Luck!

Bushwick, If you want a Subie that is crazy glued to the road in snow and ice, get a good set of winter icegrip tires, and the narrowest that will fit safely on the rims without crowning. You will have no problems in the snow doing the speeds you are expecting (within reason and driving conditions). My 2012 runs factory 225/60/17's in summer and 195/70/16's in winter. The speedo is low by 4 mph at 60 mph with the winter tires, but no big deal. You can not expect a wide all season tire to give you the grip and performance that a good narrower winter tire can provide. I've always equipped my Subies this way (a 97, an 04, an 07 and my present 2012) and the only problem I've faced in winter driving is the other cars on the road that were not eqipped the same way.

Nipper is correct on this one. I bought the factory trailer harness for one of my last two OBW's (can't remember if it was the 04 or the 07) and the literature said the plug was on the driver's side. Found it on the other side of the car.

psylosyfer, With all of the issues you've described about the car ...... run, don't walk away from purchasing it. There are just too many things wrong with it, and many of them could add up to many dollars to correct. And even then you may have way more invested into the car than what it is worth. In my opinion, you are looking at a parts car, not one to fix up. And such a purchase only makes sense if you are a mechanic and can do all of the work yourself, and you have three other Subies in the back yard that you can grab parts from. Sorry, but you asked for opinions. There are too many issues with this car to make it a fixer upper, unless she just gives you the car, and even then the costs could far exceed the car's value.

LilRedRu2, Your one car is 12 years old and the other 17. As trade ins, even together, they aren't worth very much to a dealer, as they may be to you. Investigate the possibility and see what they offer you? You never know? On the other hand, you say the Subie runs well and is clean and dependable. If that's the case, get a used rear end from a wrecker (use the Blazer towards payment ... and some cash in your pocket?) and maybe get an independent mechanic to do the swap (using the Blazer as payment for the parts and labour, and some other maintenance on your Subie?) You have some options. It'll come down to what you can find that will work for you and the wrecker/mechanic. Within 70 miles of me there is one large wrecker I'm aware of who will sell you the used parts and install them in his own shop. Maybe someone close to you does the same. Swap the Blazer for the parts and work. Good Luck!

djmark7, Under the seats are the wiring connectors for the seat heater of each seat. If you pull the connectors apart and turn on the switch, a test light placed on the two contacts for the wiring harness side (not the connector that goes up into the seat itself, but the one from under the carpet) should light up. If it does, your problem is in the heating grid and wiring under the seat covering (leather or cloth). If the test light doesn't come on, your problem may be a relay for the seat heaters, a fuse, or the switch itself. If we knew the year and model of your car, someone might even be able to post the FSM diagnosis chart for you.

The Chad, The one good thing about your problem is that it suggests that one fix will have all of the running lights working. Check the fuses and relays for the lighting system. On a car that old, physically take the fuses out and test them, then clean their blades and reinsert them into their positions. (Had a local fellow lose his heated seats from just slightly dirty fuse blades.) Pull the light relay and do the same tests and cleanup. There are YouTube videos on how to test car relays to see if they are working. Another culprit could be the light switch itself, or the parking light switch on top of the steering column. From the way you wrote your post it appears that you have little or no electrical diagnosis experience. If the above suggestions don't work for you, you'll need an auto shop that does electrical work (such as rebuilding generators, etc.), usually called auto electric shops, at least here locally they are. There are just too many places to search and check, that unless you know what you're doing, you'll just end up chasing your tail. Good Luck!

roger1, Pull the caps off the winshield wiper shafts, remove the 14 mm nuts and pull the arms from the shafts. Turn the wipers on and let them cycle a couple of times and park. Now install the driver's side arm, but tighten the nut just snug, try cycling, repositioning the arm, etc. until you're happy, then tighten the nut. Do the same procedure with the passenger side. You may get lucky and have no more issues. If it still drives you crazy, see a wrecker and replace the under cowl mechanism or motor, whichever hass more slop in it. I certainly wouldn't buy the parts from the dealership on a 12 year old car. Good Luck!

Scoobyschmitty, See the other sunroof thread above. It may help.

Larry, Having totally removed and repaired several sunroof assemblies, including the dual one in a 04 OBW LTD, I know of what you speak. It isn't hard to remove the headliner and the sunroof asembly from any car, but it is a lot of work. You may find that you can get the headliner down enough to get at your problem, if you remove the following. Pull both front and rear opening moldings. Remove the overhead assist straps, center overhead courtesy light, and the 4 flat push plugs from the center steel frame between the front and back sunroofs. (From up top of the car, when both roofs are open, look down on the metal section between them for four oblong flat push plugs,pry up their center pins and pull the entire plug up and out.) Pull down the weatherstripping on all four doors from across the top of each door opening to about halfway down the sides of the door openings. Pull the B pillar moldigs straight out towards the center of the car until they release their spring clips. That will allow you to get behind them with a T55 Torx bit to ondo the top seatbelt loop from the B pillar and then toally remove the moldings. You may have to pop the lower B pillar moldings partway off as well. Pull down the round overhead headliner plugs behind the rear sunroof opening. All of this may allow you to pull the headliner enough to get at the sunroof rails and see what you need to do. If not, you only have the other A and C pillar mouldings, sunvisors, front overhead courtesy light, front mirror, rear top tailgate opening moulding, rear tailgate opening courtesy light, and the rear center seatbelt ceiling mount, to pull to entirely remove the headliner out the rear of the car. Some wiring connectors, and about ten 10 mm nuts allow the entire sunroof assemblies to come out of the car, after you disconnect the two scissor assemblies from the front tilt sunroof (their plastic covers over the nuts simply pop off. Don't lose any shims under the bolts.). The front sunroof stays on the car, and doesn't go with the rest of the sunroof assembly. Tip: Keep your hands clean or you'll mark the headliner with dirt and grease. After you clean it off the headliner, the damage to the nap will show up. good Luck!

basketballfan, I'ved owned 4 OutBack Wagons since 1997, and every one of them has been better than the last one. Other than normal maintenance, there has never been a major fix, or even close to it, that was required to any of them. I will continue to own many more before old age makes me better suited to an able walker. That said, from what you describe as needing, a Forester would fill the bill with added benefits. The increased ground clearance allows it to go places the Legacy cannot, up over curbs, etc., and through much deeper snow. The increased headroom gets my vote for tall drivers. But the versatility of carrying 5 people, or by folding the rear seats down to carry gardening supplies, extra luggage, or taking bags of garbage to the dump can't be beat. And you can tie 8 foot long 2x4's to the roof rack for that project. You can find all kinds of 2006's and newer for the kind of dollars you want to spend, and by that year the headgasket issues had been corrected. Don't let all of the people here asking for fixes put you off. The people who don't have problems never take the time to post on these kind of forums. Good Luck with your Subaru purchase!

Richard, There is an audio technology available that uses microphones built into the vehicle. They pick up the"noise" you are complaining about, and then in milliseconds send it to the radio's amplifier to reverse the phase and pump it out the car's speakers at exactly the same volume. Essentially the two sounds, because they are in opposite phase and at the same volume, cancel each other out to make a perfectly silent cabin. Your normal radio program is not affected at all. Some high end cars carry this technology now. It may be worth you searching the web for car audio manufacturers who have this noise cancelling feature in their product line (Mark Levison, Alpine, etc.). It may be an expensive purchase, but depending on how its configured, it may allow you to move it from one car to another as you trade vehicles. Just an idea tha may be worth lokking in to.