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bocash3, When all of those lights come on at the same time, it indicates that usually one issue affects all of those systems. I suspect one sensor has a bad connection, broken wire or the sensor has gone bad. Usually its a simple and rather inexpensive fix under $100. A bad ABS/speed sensor would flash the Brake, the Traction Control, and the cruise control , as well as the Check Engine Light all at the same time, A good OBDII scanner will identify exactly where to start looking and which wheel. It could be more than one issue, but I would doubt it. Good Luck!

craigmcd, There are 4 drain tubes to the dual sunroof, one at each front and rear corner. The sunroofs will leak water into the headliner if the drain tubes are plugged at the roof or at the bottom where the tubes drain, or if the drain tubes themselves split where they attach to the roof channels at the corners. If the tubes have split, then the headliner must come down to replace them (not a hard job, just very time consuming, and not worth the $1000 the dealership will want to do the fix.) From the top of the car with the sunroofs open, the first solution is to clean the drain tubes at the end of the sun roof channels using an extended air gun and compressed air. One could also use a reasonably stiff wire to push through the dirt plug at the drain tubes' entrance. The front drain tubes exit the bottom of the car between the front fender and the car's body, just in front of the door. Usually they can't be seen unless the front fenders are removed. The rear sunroof drain tubes drain exit behind the rear wheels through the side of the car body. When the rear bumper cover is removed you can see them. As for the tailgate rear lens water leak, pull all of the interior plastic panels of the tailgate to gain access to the tail light mounting bolt nuts (You'll need a 10 mm deep socket on those nuts.) Once the nuts are removed wiggle and pry the lens assembly from the tailgate (you might even have to cut the seal to get it to separate.). Once you have the water removed from the lens assembly (hairdrier), either buy a new seal, make your own from automotive dumdum or plumber's putty. Dumdum comes in 12 inch long string sections (like the very thin red licorice). use 3 or 4 sections and rub it between your palms to make a 3/8 's inch single roll and lay it around the lens mating surface (or do the same with plumber's putty). once stuck to the lens, push it back onto the tailgate and press firmly to get the lens to the same level as your other lens assembly on the other side, and reinstall the parts back on the car. Yes, I have had to fix both issues on subies over the years. Good Luck!

SDSubie, Heads up! If you check out the site I quoted you'll see that it clearly states certain 2016 and 2017 models! Do not assume that 2018 and 2019 models are included. I'd check that out with your dealership!

Mallory, I wouldn't think that a 2010 could be rusted/gunked-up enough to require pulling it out. As uniberp1 has stated, your first course of action is to follow his lead. These subie engines can be difficult to remove air in the coolant unless the front of the car is elevated to allow burping. I have pulled the complete dashes out of cars in the past, and its not fun, is very time consuming, and there are too many places where one time assembly pieces can break off locking tabs, making reassembly more difficult, and in some cases, more than a little expensive to replace.

Gentlemen, I purchased a used 2017 OutBack Premier in November of 2017, and now in 2019 have just updated my Navigation Map system. I purchased the car from a Subaru dealer, and no one said anything about the nav update program that Subaru provides, FREE of Charge for the first 3 years after purchase, of some Subaru models for the years 2016 and 2017. I own 4 vehicles, 3 of which have navigation systems (2011 Lexus, 2016 Nissan, 2017 Subaru) and updating the nav systems always appeared to be a $150 to $250 a year expense I was reluctant to spend. Then by chance today, a Google research discovered that Subaru has the map upgrade program I stated above, free for the first 3 yearly updates, and then a yearly purchase afterwards. If you're not aware of the program, and your car fits the years and models affected, Google "Subaru Map Updates", register for the program, download the "SubaruGen2-Toolbox-inst.exe" file and get the first of your 3 free map updates downloaded to your PC or Mac. Then transfer the file to your Mini SD card from the Navigation dash screen display of your car. Everything is explained on the Subaru Map Update site. Free is good!

suprunner, Two things come to mind. Higher revs put out higher oil pressure. I see this all of the time on my Duramax. The oil pressure gauge varies greatly from idle to higher rpms, rising as the rpms rise. And change that PCV valve. My 1990 300ZX started leaking oil out of the rear main seal at about 50 000 km. Not a great deal, but enough to leave a 3 inch circle of oil on the garage floor after every drive. I changed out the PCV valves (that car had two) and no more leaks. Obviously the built up pressure in the crankcase caused the leak because of the plugged PCV valves. Once they were replaced, the crankcase could release the pressure, and the leaking stopped for the next 18 years that I owned the car. Maybe someone else will jump in with more suggestions. Good Luck!

Ladies and Gentlemen, Just came from the above site, wanting to update the Nav data on my 2017 OBW. The site gives two options, a single update at $119 (no mention as to USD or CDN $), and Free with a subscription. But no mention as to the cost of the subscription? Subscription to what? Click on the 2nd option and the link asks to download a 61 MB program onto my PC. I'm not certain I want to go there without more info. Anyone tried this?

bork, I've owned one of each of the different generations of OBW since 1997, trading about every 5 years, and each new generation was better than the last. Other than usual maintenance (oil changes, wiper blades, brakes, tires, a light bulb/switch or two, one wheel bearing, one door speaker, and head gaskets on the 2002 fixed under warranty) were the only issues. I'm on my 5th OBW a 2017 Premier with Eyesight and the full Tech package ... and its the BEST one yet! I just might keep this one forever. If an OBW fits his family I say go for it. Only the Lexus models my wife drives have been as reliable in the 54 years I've been driving cars.

resaw, Free download from this link: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru

turbofiat124, The first generation Tribeca turned most consumers off when they saw the front of the car. When it was redesigned later to be more generic, the damage had already been done, so not many of them were purchased. Those that were are like all of the other subie models, mainly found in areas where ice, snow, elevation, and the back woods put them right at home.

yaddayadda, That I can't tell you, because its been too many years ago that I owned that generation of subie to remember. I know that my 2017 subie has a gasket under the edge of the glass, and I suspect that it is bonded to the glass, and the gasket is urethaned to the body of the car. Having worked in an auto restoration shop for years (still do part time, when it suits my mood and schedule) and having done more than a few windshield replacements, some windshields have the gasket bonded to the glass already when purchased. Some use no gasket at all, and a few need just the gasket to install them (usually antique cars). Most use a black urethane sealant nowadays whether they come with a gasket or not. Your best bet is to ask at an auto glass shop as to how subie windshields come when they order them. If you're certain that the rust has not gotten under the gasket, then the usual sanding/grinding the area to remove the rust back to bare metal, degreasing, priming and painting should be all that is required to put the situation right. Be very careful around the edges of the glass. The slightest nick with a tool could cause a crack or the entire windshield to check into a million small pieces. Good Luck!

Stevo F, The subie piston slap issue occurs as you describe in these older engines. My 97 OBW LTD had the issue as well and I just lived with it. Years of forum posts and research shows, that while annoying, piston slap will not affect the engine's longevity in any way. My 97 had it, but not my 2002, my 2007, my 2012 or my present 2017. Some humourously suggest to just turn up the radio.

yaddayadda, I believe you'll find that to correct your rust problem, that the glass will have to be removed from the car, and the gasket removed as well. Unless you can verify that the rust has not penetrated below the gasket, any repair you do will eventually be wasted, as this is an area of the car constantly invaded by water. As far as replacing the seal properly, this can only be done at the windshield install. You could fill the gasket groove area with black silicone or automotive Goop, but the visual results may be far from satisfactory, not to mention again that the rust may be growing underneath. Its really unfortunate that the rust was not addressed at the time of the windshield replacement.

unenthuzed ,It would appear that the sheep approves as well.

Stevo F, Do a Google search for "painting car trim/plastics" etc. There are all kinds of spray paints that are sold by major paint companies that show you the products to buy, and the steps required to get good adheasion (Color Bond, Duplicolor, Eastwood).

greg, When the locks get to that stage, the only solution is to pull the inner door panel and track down the issue. Either the lock tumbler needs replacing, the clip for the rod tumbler to the lock has broken, that same rod is bent, or the lock mechanism has corroded and needs replacing. A trip to a wrecking yard will get replacements. Gene

sirtokesalot, On that age of car I would suspect that there may be a broken wire in the rubber gaiter that the wiring harness for the tailgate goes through at the tailgate hinge area. Pop the gaiter off the body and the tailgate, gather it all to one end of the wires or other, and inspect the individual wires carefully. You may find the culprit. If not there, you might take the light assembly entirely out of the ceiling headliner, take it apart and check that the switch isn't corroded or carboned up in the "door open" position. A cleaning with fine emery paper might do the trick. Not sure what else to suggest if these ideas don't work out?

Gentlemen, Those protection strips obviously (from the parts diagram) fasten into the steel roof, held in place in two places with nuts and in two other places with push in plugs that snap into place, but many times break off when removed. To get at the nuts means removing the headliner from the car ... meaning two hours work to remove and then replace for a first time DIYer. I've been there done that to get at a sunroof for repairs on a 2002 OBW. The sun visors, mirror, overhead lights, A, B, C, and D pillar moldings, as well as the overhead assist handles (B Pillar seat belt loops as well), all door opening weather stripping covering the headliner has to be pulled half way down, and then the headliner can be removed out the rear of the car. Go the removal route and you're looking at hours just to remove and replace, and then possibly parts to reattach them (the plugs if they break, the special bolts attached to the rub strips if they're corroded and don't come off , meaning cutting them free. Go the mask, sand, and paint while they're on the car and you have hours of masking, prep work in an impossible position (on a ladder of some type, reaching over the roof rails, trying not to mark the roof paint ...? Unless there is a real sentimental reason attached to this 18 year old car, why would anyone do this job at all? I don't envy your position, but total removal will give you the best job. Good Luck!

Bigsky, Its an expensive fix if you pay a shop to do the job and buy new parts, but pull one from a wrecking yard and get your backyard mechanic friend to install it would be the way I'd go. Jury rigging what solution you have suggested is going to cause head aches down the road. The air bag removal and steering wheel removal are not that challenging, just BE SURE to disconnect the car's battery and then wait 30 minutes before you start the work!!!!!! Car airbag systems use capacitors to store enough electricity to fire the bags if the battery cable is cut during an accident. The charge dissipates in 20 minutes or so rendering the air bags safe to handle, so they won't explode in your face. Don't mess with an air bag if you don't follow this step. They can kill you at close range. Here's a free download of the service manual for that year: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Impreza/1996-2001 Service Manual/

NV Zeno, Just peal them off the roof and remove the glue. Purchase a roll of an appropriately shaped and coloured rubber protection strips that are contact glued to the doors of cars for parking lot door dent protection. There are lots of different shapes and colours to choose from, and they're peal and stick. Couldn't be easier, and a lot less expensive than trying to paint what's there and deterioprated. And when you add up labour costs, you're way ahead of the game.

1stSubie95FwdLegacyWagon First generation subie OB's had the piston slap exactly as you describe, loud at startup, but disappearing almost entirely after warm up. The general train of thought is that it will not hurt the engine or its longevity. My 97 OBW had it starting at about 20 000 kms and five years later when I traded it for another subie it was still going strong with no adverse effects.

Chrissg12222, One day later the info I missed the first time I saw the post is there? DUH, on my behalf! Here's the98 FSM, but you'll need to do some searching through it to find the fuel pump section. Its not readily visible from the pdf titles listed. http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy_Outback/1998/

Chrisg12222, Always!!!!!!!!!! tell us the year, model and mileage for any post asking for advice or help. It changes the possible answers anyone might give you. Until then, we really can't help. I can give you a factory service manual (FREE) if I knew what your car's specifics were!

Ladies and gentlemen, The sad part is that some fool drove the car in this state ... for quite a while to do all of that damage. He should be banned from even owning a car.

ekim, Until the last few years cable assemblies on motorcycles (brakes and clutch) and cars (throttle, cruise control, gear shifter) would stretch over time and develop slop. They all had an adjuster that really just added length the the OUTER sheath in most cases. That in turn took up the slack in the cable with a few turns. Once you get the entire regulator out of the door, it may be possible to pull that outer sheath (the black plastic) out of the yellow plastic assembly at the motor drive, and slip a small washer or two over the cable (a washer with a section cut out that the inner cable can pass through, but small enough that the outer sheath can't). By squeezing the washer/s with pliers to prevent them coming off the cable, but allowing the inner cable to smoothly pass through it. You won't know if its possible to do until you try pulling the cable out of the yellow assembly. If it does come out some, give my idea a try. If not, off to a wrecking yard for a used one. Good Luck!